Category: Tau Pan

There was an uptick in African wild dog sightings compared to previous months; we saw them on several occasions.

The first sighting occurred during breakfast when a kudu herd ran past Tau Pan Camp. After a quick scan, one of our guests spotted an African wild dog. We followed the tracks and found a pack of 17 wild dogs resting in the shade.

On another thrilling day, we were on the trail of lions to the north when we stumbled upon fresh wild dog tracks on the main road. The chase led us to the pack of 17 resting under a tree. Our final sighting was equally exhilarating, as we located a pack of eight African wild dogs drinking at a waterhole during a day trip to Deception Valley.

Brown hyenas and more at the camp waterhole

This month, hyena sightings were also excellent, especially for the elusive brown hyena. We spotted brown hyenas four times, and all sightings occurred early in the morning near the camp waterhole, so we happily watched them during our breakfast.

Another early morning, after meeting at the campfire, we heard alarm calls from kudus. A shy female leopard appeared briefly at the waterhole to drink before retreating into the bush. The second sighting was a female leopard walking along the road north of the camp; she moved off-road after about 17 minutes. Finally, on an afternoon drive to the east, we located a male leopard feeding on a steenbok.

One day, we ventured northeast of camp and came across two black-maned lions, one lioness, and a subadult male lion, all being chased by two other black-maned males. They were heading north toward the airstrip. On December 2nd, we saw a single black-maned lion calling out to the others. Later in the month, one night, we heard lions roaring continuously. The following morning, we traced their calls south of Tau Pan. After following their tracks for about 30 minutes, we located four lionesses and one male lion.

The Green Season unfolds in the Kalahari

December brought a refreshing change to Tau Pan, with the arrival of the rains bringing new life to the landscape. We saw the offspring of springbok, plus common antelope species such as red hartebeest, oryx, common duiker, and kudu were frequently seen.

The weather varied between warm, partly cloudy days and occasional winds, creating a pleasant atmosphere ideal for game viewing and bush activities. The rains revitalized the environment, bringing cooler temperatures, particularly in the mornings and evenings.

With the arrival of the rains, the weather was perfect for Bushman walks, and we conducted more of these walks this month. With the lions moving further away from the camp, we could also explore the area without interruptions. The walks offered a unique opportunity to connect with nature in the heart of Tau Pan’s dynamic landscape. Guests enjoyed observing the growing vegetation and understanding their medicinal properties and could inspect beautiful flowers from close quarters. The once-bare dunes transformed into a lush green landscape, and various plants began to bloom, including trumpet thorns and acacia trees.

Ground squirrels, yellow mongooses, slender mongooses, honey badgers, and caracals were all logged. Birdlife in Tau Pan continued to impress, with a mix of Palearctic and intra-African migrant species arriving in the area. Notable sightings included European golden oriole, kites, falcons, bee-eaters, bustards, shrikes, goshawks, eagles, kestrels, and owls.

(Please note: For the safety of the animals, we do not disclose the precise location of either rhino or pangolin sightings. Accompanying pictures are from our Kwando Photo Library which consists of all your great photo submissions over the years, it may not be the most up to date, but we felt it was worthy of a feature alongside this month’s Sightings Report!) 

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The Tau Pan Pride was located on the eastern side of camp, where they enjoyed a meal from an African wild dog kill.

Just as the Tau Pan Pride was feasting on a subadult kudu, a male lion, seemingly out of nowhere, appeared and seized the entire meal for himself, leaving the pride and us in shock.

A caracal came for a drink at the camp waterhole, too. Caracals in the Kalahari have adapted to the arid environment by being highly opportunistic hunters, capable of taking down prey much larger than themselves — including springboks! Their powerful hind legs also allow them to leap over 3 meters into the air to snatch birds in mid-flight.

We tracked a female leopard along Aardvark Road, heading towards the first sand dune near the airstrip. She appeared to be hunting, and the guides carefully observed her movements. As we followed, we noticed a steenbok in her path. The prey spotted the predator and fled, causing the leopard to abandon the hunt.

Two shy male cheetahs rested in the shade at the Leitahau waterhole. They appeared to be trying to stay cool in the afternoon heat, avoiding hunting due to the warm temperatures. Later that same day, we spotted a female cheetah by the Passarge Waterhole. She was also resting and staying close to the water to cool off.

What is the Little Five?

Around camp, we noticed a new beetle species, the Dynastine scarab beetle, also known as the rhino beetle and a member of the Little Five.

The Little Five plays on the Big Five (rhino, elephant, lion, buffalo and leopard) and showcases the continent’s smaller but equally remarkable creatures.

This group includes the rhino beetle, an impressively strong insect with horn-like features; the antlion, a masterful sand-trap hunter in its larval stage; the elephant shrew, a tiny, quick-footed insectivore; the buffalo weaver, a social bird known for its messy nests and our next sighting, the leopard tortoise, named for its patterned shell. We saw a few leopard tortoises, which sought shade under trees to stay cool.

Other insect sightings included ground beetles, whirligigs, and water scorpions.

Ground squirrels, giraffes and amazing lion encounters

Ground squirrels were a regular presence, and their warning calls alerted us to the presence of a raptor. Suddenly, the squirrels scurried into their burrows to avoid becoming prey. A pale chanting goshawk caught a dove. However, a thorn hooked the dove, and another raptor of the same species swooped in to take it.

Although the rainfall was low this year, some greenish shoots started to appear, signalling the beginning of the rainy season. The grass remained short, but camelthorn trees, various albizia and the brandy bush remain green.

With the recent rains, many animals dispersed to areas with greener vegetation, leaving fewer animals in our immediate area. However, we still observed solitary gemsbok, springboks, wildebeests, steenboks, common duikers, and smaller animals like yellow mongooses, slender mongooses, bat-eared foxes, and jackals. Giraffes, in particular, moved further out of the area, making sightings of these majestic creatures even more special.

Lions also shifted their movements, as there was less activity around the waterhole. However, at the end of the month, we observed two female lions from the pride during a bush walk. When they spotted us, we calmly walked away, and they took cover, leaving us with a brief but memorable encounter. During this walk, guests learned about traditional survival skills, such as where to find food, how to make fire with matchsticks, and other essential life skills in the bush. For example, identifying moisture-rich desert plants like kambro, Kalahari water tuber and morning glory. These plants provide sustenance for animals during the drier months, and with more rain, Tau Pan could see an abundance of tsama melon, which has been scarce since 2015.

On clear nights, we viewed brilliant constellations like Canis Major, Orion’s Belt, Canis Minor, Taurus the Bull, and the Seven Sisters. The star Sirius, visible in Canis Major, and the planets Venus and Jupiter were particularly stunning.

(Please note: For the safety of the animals, we do not disclose the precise location of either rhino or pangolin sightings. Accompanying pictures are from our Kwando Photo Library which consists of all your great photo submissions over the years, it may not be the most up to date, but we felt it was worthy of a feature alongside this month’s Sightings Report!) 

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A brown hyena was spotted at the waterhole, quenching its thirst in an extended sighting. A pack of African wild dogs was also sighted, passing through the northern part of the camp and heading toward the cutline.

Scrub hares engaged in territorial fights along the pathways, while slender mongooses hunted mice and snakes. Yellow mongooses were also spotted near the ground squirrel burrows. Ground squirrels, meanwhile, foraged for seeds in grass species such as eight-day grass, adding charm to the morning drives.

The dry grasslands, patiently awaiting the life-giving rains, were a testament to the adaptability of both animals and people. They have learned to survive in these harsh conditions by digging for moisture-rich tubers like the Morning Glory and Kalahari water tubers. Guests were treated to immersive bush walks led by San guides, who shared their deep knowledge of the Kalahari flora and fauna, demonstrating the resourcefulness and resilience of the San people.

An ant Lion was seen in camp killing a scorpion!

Another highlight of this month was watching a pale chanting goshawk freeing on a sandgrouse it had caught. The elusive red hartebeest also appeared near the airstrip and at the waterhole.

Giraffes, springboks, and elephants frequently mixed with other species at the waterhole, creating a dynamic scene of coexistence. Other bird sightings included eagles, doves, and flocks of sandgrouse congregating at the waterhole. The competition for food was fierce, with crows and Gabar goshawks joining the fray. Black-backed jackals were commonly seen, along with foxes and ground squirrels. Large numbers of kudus gathered to drink, their presence often attracting lions.

Testy lions and plenty of kudu kills

A well-known rival male lion, often called “the intruder,” was spotted feeding on a kudu carcass that a lioness had killed. The lioness, clearly frustrated, lay under a bush nearby, watching as the male feasted on her hard-earned meal. This bold behaviour set the tone for the month’s lion sightings.An intense encounter unfolded at the waterhole as the Tau Pan Pride clashed with the Airstrip Pride. The territorial skirmish resulted in the Airstrip Pride being chased back toward the airstrip. During the chaos, one of the older females from the Airstrip Pride was caught and overpowered by the Tau Pan Pride. Though badly exhausted and injured, she managed to sneak away and disappear by the afternoon.

Later in the month, a lioness from the Tau Pan Pride was found feeding on a freshly killed gemsbok near the southern road to Letiahau. Soon after, four other lionesses joined the feast. However, their meal was short-lived as the same rival male appeared, forcing the females to abandon their kill and retreat toward camp. The male, ever opportunistic, enjoyed the gemsbok alone.

A new pride of five lions (three males and two lionesses) was frequently sighted feeding. This pride is believed to originate from Deception Valley. It was often seen in Passarge Valley and Sunday Pan but rarely ventured further afield.

Two subadult female cheetahs were spotted crossing Tau Pan, showing interest in a lone springbok. Unfortunately, the prey caught their scent, and the hunt was unsuccessful. Later in October, a male cheetah was observed resting near the pan, seemingly preparing to hunt the nearby prey species. However, he disappeared shortly after, and no further activity was recorded.

This month, clear, unpolluted skies provided breathtaking stargazing opportunities. Guests marvelled at constellations such as Scorpio, Libra, Sagittarius, and the Southern Cross, as well as bright celestial objects like Venus and Spica.

(Please note: For the safety of the animals, we do not disclose the precise location of either rhino or pangolin sightings. Accompanying pictures are from our Kwando Photo Library which consists of all your great photo submissions over the years, it may not be the most up to date, but we felt it was worthy of a feature alongside this month’s Sightings Report!)

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A small group of three male elephants frequented the Tau Pan waterhole, displaying spectacular behaviour.

Watching these gentle giants mud-bathe and spray themselves from the main deck was entertaining and insightful. Their presence at the waterhole often kept smaller and medium-sized animals at bay, creating a unique relationship as other species patiently waited for their turn to drink.

Smaller mammals provided delightful surprises this month. Near one of the pans, a remarkable sighting was a caracal with a steenbok kill. Honey badgers, bat-eared foxes, ground squirrels, and black-backed jackals were commonly seen around Tau Pan. An African wild cat was observed near the airstrip.

Three brown hyenas visited the camp waterhole on separate occasions, drinking and scanning the area for potential scavenging opportunities. One individual was also observed heading north toward the airstrip, while another rested near Sunday Waterhole.

Sandgrouse flocked to the waterholes, drawing the attention of predatory birds like the pale-chanting goshawk and the Gabar goshawk, often seen diving in to test their luck. Other notable sightings included spotted eagle owls, giant eagle owls, tawny eagles, African harrier hawks, black-chested snake eagles, secretary birds, and greater kestrels. Ostriches were also drawn to the flowering river thorn acacia trees, creating photogenic moments in the golden light of the pans.

The black-maned lions of Tau Pan

September reaffirmed why Tau Pan is genuinely a lion stronghold. The Tau Pan Pride offered consistent sightings as they roamed the camp and surrounding areas. These enormous cats frequently rested in front of rooms, by the swimming pool, or under the star deck. They sometimes even lingered for two or three days around the camp.

One of the ex-dominant males from the pride was observed patrolling the western regions of Tau Pan, seemingly strategizing his return to reclaim dominance from the current leader. This developing power struggle between the old male and the new dominant male remained a fascinating storyline, keeping both guides and guests on the edge of their seats.

In addition to the resident prides, sightings of new lions added to the excitement. A pride of two consisting of a mother and her subadult male cub (approximately 1.5 years old) was seen moving through the area. Another pride of eight lions was spotted several times, comprising two adult females, three subadult females, and three subadult males (aged around 3.5 years). On one occasion, the pride’s roaring and social interactions reverberated across the pan, creating a magical experience for everyone.

Life among the flowering trees

During one afternoon game drive, a resident female leopard lounged high in a tree on the northern side of camp. In contrast, another female along Aardvark Road demonstrated her stalking prowess as she targeted a common duiker. Though her hunt was unsuccessful, the display of stealth and patience was captivating to watch.

Meanwhile, a shy male leopard was sighted near Passarge Waterhole with a steenbok kill.

A subadult male and female cheetah were seen on the southern side of Tau Pan, both with noticeably full bellies, indicating a recent successful hunt. Tracks of two other cheetahs were found near Passarge Waterhole, leading to the discovery of a kudu carcass they had taken down.

There was an onset of greenery this month. Flowering acacia trees drew in various herbivores, such as springbok, kudu, steenbok, and oryx, often seen feeding on the nutritious pods. The Sunday Waterhole remained a hotspot for wildlife activity, with large numbers of animals congregating to drink. Fresh African wild dog tracks around Letiahau Waterhole, Sunday Waterhole, and Passage Waterhole were identified. Self-drive visitors reported spotting the pack at Sunday Waterhole, while the research team noted sightings near Passarge Waterhole and another pair in the northern region.

Giraffe sightings notably increased compared to August. These gentle giants were frequently seen in areas like Letiahau, Deception Valley, and near the camp waterhole. Guests were thrilled to see them striding gracefully between the trees and water sources.

During nature walks led by an experienced Kalahari Bushman, guests were given a glimpse into the remarkable survival skills and cultural traditions, including how to find water, food, and fire-starting materials in the arid desert landscape.

(Please note: For the safety of the animals, we do not disclose the precise location of either rhino or pangolin sightings. Accompanying pictures are from our Kwando Photo Library which consists of all your great photo submissions over the years, it may not be the most up to date, but we felt it was worthy of a feature alongside this month’s Sightings Report!)

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Three male elephants frequently visited the camp waterhole, providing guests with memorable moments as they drank and enjoyed mud baths.

Their presence often kept smaller animals at bay, as the waterhole is too small to accommodate all the wildlife at once. This led to interesting interactions as other animals patiently waited for the elephants to finish before taking their turn.

Leopard driven up a tree by lions at the camp waterhole

Leopard sightings were plentiful particularly around the airstrip, waterhole, and near Room 1.

One of the most thrilling encounters unfolded at the waterhole, where a female leopard found herself in a life-or-death situation. In a sudden attack, a lioness forced the leopard to escape by scaling a nearby tree. For 20 tense minutes, she clung to the branches while the lioness prowled below. The eventual loss of interest by the lioness allowed the leopard to make a swift escape toward the safety of Room 9 — an unforgettable moment of predator versus predator.

A shy male was spotted along the main road before the junction leading to Passarge waterhole, while another female was seen south of Sunday waterhole, hunting a steenbok but missing her target. A resident female, seen regularly between the camp and airstrip, was notably full-bellied, hinting at a hidden recent kill.

The blossoming acacia trees transformed Tau Pan this month, attracting a variety of herbivores, including springbok, kudu, steenbok, and oryx. The yellow blossoms stood out against the golden grasses, while the sunsets and sunrises over the dunes created moments of pure magic. The nutritious pods from these acacias were a magnet for these species, especially around the Letiahau area, where game was abundant.

The sand dunes provide stunning vantage points, with the horizon coated in shades of blue and gold. However, a curious absence of giraffes was noted. Despite their usual prevalence at strongholds like Letiahau, Deception Valley, and Sunday waterhole, giraffe sightings were scarce. We suspect they may have migrated to areas with better food sources, as many acacia trees have started to lose their leaves.

Sand grouse flocked to the camp waterhole, closely followed by raptors such as pale-chanting and Gabar goshawks, hoping to catch an unwary bird for a meal. Spotted eagle owls, giant eagle owls, and tawny eagles also graced the skies, along with the powerful secretary bird and great kestrel. Ostriches, drawn to the acacia blossoms, added an extra layer of wonder to the Central Kalahari birding experience.  

A caracal kill and lion activity at Tau Pan

It was a great month for spotting smaller mammals. Honey badgers, bat-eared foxes, and black-backed jackals were frequently seen around Tau Pan, while a rare and thrilling sighting of a caracal with a steenbok kill at Makgoa Pan left guests in awe. Ground squirrels and an African wild cat near the airstrip added to the charm of Tau Pan’s hidden treasures.

Though cheetah sightings were sparse, two subadult cheetahs — a male and female — were spotted on the western side of camp, later moving toward Makgoa Pan. Both appeared well-fed, though the source of their meal remained elusive.

Spotted hyena activity picked up this month, especially in the mornings. Two hyenas were seen drinking at the waterhole on different days, one was spotted near the airstrip heading north, and another was seen resting in Deception Valley.

The Tau Pan pride, known for its proximity to the lodge, was seen almost daily, except for four days when they were out patrolling elsewhere. One of the standout moments was at Letiahau waterhole, where six lions — two subadult males, a subadult female, an adult female, and two cubs estimated to be around three months old — were spotted feeding on a subadult oryx. Later in the month, a lioness attempted to bring down a kudu and an oryx at Sunday waterhole, although she ultimately missed and gave up the chase.

A particularly intriguing development within the Tau Pan Pride was the introduction of a new dominant male, now in his third month with the pride. His presence has led to speculation about the fate of the previous five dominant males, of which only one remains visible, often seen patrolling the western side of Tau Pan toward San Pan. Interestingly, the new dominant male, accompanied by a subadult male from the San Pan Pride, was seen chasing one of the ex-dominant males away from Tau Pan, indicating potential power shifts within the pride. The drama continued when the same subadult male rejoined the ex-dominant male, and both were seen with the Airstrip pride. The power dynamics within the Tau Pan pride remain unresolved.

The Airstrip pride was sighted four times, mostly around the waterhole and the airstrip area.  

(Please note: For the safety of the animals, we do not disclose the precise location of either rhino or pangolin sightings. Accompanying pictures are from our Kwando Photo Library which consists of all your great photo submissions over the years, it may not be the most up to date, but we felt it was worthy of a feature alongside this month’s Sightings Report!)

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We witnessed a thrilling encounter — a leopard hunting a bat-eared fox right in front of our vehicle. The fox didn’t stand a chance, and the leopard proudly carried its meal into the bushes, offering guests a once-in-a-lifetime photo opportunity.

Later in the month, a female leopard was spotted atop a tree, scanning the landscape with her piercing eyes — a majestic predator surveying her kingdom. We also followed the trail of a leopard from camp to the northern firebreak. The tracks led us along the airstrip before vanishing, only to be rediscovered on Aardvark Road. We finally spotted the elusive cat stalking a steenbok, moving silently through the bush.

In June, the golden sands of the dunes shimmered in the Tau Pan sunlight and the plains were dotted with hardy grasses like Kalahari sand quick and Bushman love grass. These plants sustain the hidden ecosystems of ants, termites, and mole rats beneath the surface. The resilient Vachellia and Senegalia trees stood tall and green against the dry backdrop, while the middle route to Deception Valley, still touched by the last rains, offered lush green patches that hinted at the rejuvenation to come. Despite the challenges of limited rainfall, general game sightings were excellent in this area. We encountered herds of gemsbok, red hartebeest, warthogs, giraffes, black-backed jackals, and kudus, all drawn to the remaining greenery.

One day, a familiar male lion known for his fierce dominance over younger males in the Tau Pan Pride was seen sprinting toward the camp. The chase was on! This big male relentlessly pursued a subadult male, eventually driving him westward across Tau Pan. Victorious, the male returned to his lionesses, asserting his dominance once again as they made their way to the waterhole.

Following the tracks of 24 lions that had crossed the northern firebreak, guests scored a front-row seat to the art of tracking in the semi-arid desert and persistence paid off. Excitement filled the air as we pieced together the movements of the pride, their trail revealing their location.

Later in the month, camp buzzed with anticipation when a subadult male lion and his father, a dominant male, were spotted feasting on a giraffe carcass. This dramatic scene unfolded for several days, with scavengers circling and adding to the tension. We tracked another subadult lion along the cutline road and discovered a lioness feeding on a gemsbok carcass.

A lone cheetah was seen resting by the bushes at Tau Pan, only to be chased off by a group of gemsbok. The elegant cat disappeared into the bush, leaving us on the edge of our seats. But our patience was rewarded later when we saw more subadult cheetahs moving through the area. A mother cheetah with three playful cubs was spotted heading north from the camp, a delightful scene as the young cubs honed their hunting skills under their mother’s watchful eye.

Brown hyena visits the Tau Pan waterhole

We were treated to a rare sighting of a brown hyena drinking at the waterhole — an unusual visual of these typically nocturnal scavengers. While hyena tracks are often found, the creatures themselves are elusive, adding a layer of mystery to their role in the Tau Pan ecosystem.

A regular highlight of the month was the nature walks led by San trackers. Guests were captivated as they shared the rich cultural heritage of the bushman people, demonstrating traditional survival skills like sourcing food and making fire with natural materials.

Pale chanting goshawks were particularly active, and one was seen swooping down to catch a Burchell’s sandgrouse in mid-flight. The precision of the hunt was breathtaking, and other goshawks soon joined the fray, almost causing the hunter to drop its prey. Around the waterhole, tawny eagles, bateleur eagles, and gabar goshawks showcased their hunting prowess, making the skies above Tau Pan a constant spectacle. African monarch butterflies flitted through the air while ground beetles, water scorpions, and dragonflies buzzed around the reservoir. Yellow and slender mongooses also dashed about, energetically searching for prey. A lone leopard tortoise was a slow but determined traveller across the sandy terrain, embodying the tenacity of life in the Kalahari.

June’s clear skies provided perfect stargazing conditions, with constellations like the Southern Cross, Scorpio, and Canis Major shining brightly. Stars like Canopus and Sirius dotted the heavens, while the Milky Way stretched across the night sky, casting a magical glow over Tau Pan. Shooting stars punctuated the nights, offering a fitting close to each day’s adventures.

(Please note: For the safety of the animals, we do not disclose the precise location of either rhino or pangolin sightings. Accompanying pictures are from our Kwando Photo Library which consists of all your great photo submissions over the years, it may not be the most up to date, but we felt it was worthy of a feature alongside this month’s Sightings Report!)

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A pack of 12 African wild dogs was an exciting find near the camp waterhole early one morning.

They were seen heading east along Carlos Road. A dramatic scene unfolded as three black-backed jackals scavenged on a wild dog carcass, suggesting a lion attack.

Cheetah sightings included two males frequently seen around Tau Pan. One male was often located at marking posts, emphasizing territorial behaviours.

The night skies of Tau Pan Camp in May were a stargazer’s dream. Guests marvelled at constellations like the Southern Cross with its prominent pointers, the red giant star Betelgeuse, and Scorpio with its bright star Antares. The Milky Way, stretching across the sky, offered a stunning view of our galaxy, estimated to contain up to 400 billion stars and be about 13.4 billion years old. A sight that can only be truly appreciated in the vastness of the Kalahari!

A single brown hyena was a regular visitor around the camp waterhole, adding to the diversity of nocturnal sightings.

The lions and leopards of Tau Pan

Early in the month, a solitary male lion was frequently spotted patrolling along the airstrip and western fire roads. The resident Tau Pan pride, consisting of seven lionesses and one male, made several appearances around the camp, often venturing to the airstrip and drinking from the camp’s waterhole. An exciting encounter involved this pride’s male joining another pride to mate, resulting in fascinating behaviour displays.

A highlight was observing a pride of four lions at Passarge waterhole, while another pride known as the Airstrip Pride was seen with a gemsbok carcass along Aardvark Road. Additionally, a lioness was often heard roaring near room 1, trying to locate her pride. Towards the end of the month, mating pairs and various prides were seen in strategic hunting positions, although not all hunts were successful.

A female leopard was first spotted along Aardvark Road, actively hunting. Another leopardess was seen resting under a shepherd tree along Carlos Road. One remarkable event involved a leopardess ambushing and successfully killing a scrub hare, while another was observed feeding on a steenbok carcass up a tree. These leopards exhibited their typical stealth and precision, providing guests with unforgettable moments.

Thrills at the waterhole

Drawn by the remaining water sources, May brought an impressive array of general game to Tau Pan Camp. Guests enjoyed sightings of solitary males, breeding herds, and bachelor groups of gemsboks, red hartebeests, springboks, greater kudus, steenboks, bushbuck, southern giraffes, African elephants, and blue wildebeests.

Small mammals, including black-backed jackals, cape ground squirrels, honey badgers, slender and yellow mongooses, scrub hares, and bat-eared foxes, were abundant. Guests also enjoyed sightings of a serval and an African wild cat along Tau Pan.

Bird sightings included Kalahari scrub robins, common ostriches, pale chanting and Gabar goshawks, lanner and red-necked falcons, bateleurs, white-backed vultures, pririt batis, southern pied babblers, white-browed sparrow weavers, cape glossy starlings, Kori bustards, northern black and red-crested korhaans, capped wheatears, fawn-coloured and rufous naped larks, violet-eared waxbills, black-chested prinias, scaly-feathered finches, southern yellow-billed and African grey hornbills, zitting cisticolas, Burchell sandgrouses, cape vultures, spotted eagle owls, chestnut-vented tit-babblers, Sabota larks, long-billed crombecs, crimson-breasted shrikes, blue waxbills, and eastern clapper larks.

(Please note: For the safety of the animals, we do not disclose the precise location of either rhino or pangolin sightings. Accompanying pictures are from our Kwando Photo Library which consists of all your great photo submissions over the years, it may not be the most up to date, but we felt it was worthy of a feature alongside this month’s Sightings Report!)

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Driving through Tau Pan is like moving through a painting, with autumn colours of yellow, brown, green, and red.

While some areas are dry, others, particularly towards Litiahau and Lekhubu Campsite, remain green. Recent rains rejuvenated the grass despite the approaching winter season, offering a stunning contrast against the green trees and newly sprouted shoots in previously burnt areas.

Birdwatching was fantastic, highlighted by a fork-tailed drongo spotting an African rock python in a tree. The snake remained in the same spot for three weeks, providing a fascinating long-term observation.

We encountered the Tau Pan pride right outside the dining room one day, curiously observing us before moving to the waterhole. It was an unforgettable moment as we watched them interact with their surroundings. We went on a thrilling tracking adventure, following the pride’s tracks from the waterhole to the west towards the firebreak. Despite the hard ground obscuring the tracks, our skilled guides relied on their expertise to locate the pride, which we found feeding on a gemsbok they had hunted early that morning.

We located two cheetahs in the Letiahau Valley, seemingly separated and calling for each other. One of them found himself amidst a large herd of gemsbok, which stood their ground and chased him away. The following day, we found the brother along San Pan exhibiting hunting behaviour, though no prey was visible. It’s always fascinating to observe these speedy predators in action.

Wildlife at the busy waterhole 

A brown hyena drank from the waterhole. These timid creatures have typically been seen once a month, making this encounter particularly special.

An elephant bull displayed typical musth behaviour, creating an intense and exhilarating experience for our guests as it fed near the camp. A bushbuck was also seen, adding to the diversity of sightings.

Tau Pan’s diverse landscape provided fantastic general game sightings, especially with the light rains bringing life to the area. Yellow mongooses, slender mongooses, and two caracals were logged. Springbok, red hartebeest, bushbuck, kudus, giraffes, gemsbok, wildebeest, bat-eared foxes, black-backed jackals, and ground squirrels were abundant. Southern pale chanting goshawks were observed stealing food from honey badgers. Other notable sightings included tawny eagles, violet-eared waxbills, weavers, thick-knees, and various shrikes.

Our knowledgeable Kalahari guides provided enriching bush walks, sharing cultural insights about traditional living, finding food, bushcraft, and medicinal uses of plants. Guests learned about tracking and survival skills, enhancing their understanding and appreciation of the natural world.

Ants were seen dragging a dead grasshopper to their hole, and a leopard tortoise was found on the move. A puff adder near the road prompted various species to give warning calls. Ball biter ants, ground beetles, and dung beetles were also observed around elephant dung.

The night sky at Tau Pan was a celestial wonder, with clear views of Orion’s Belt, Canis Major, Canis Minor, Taurus, Corvus, the Milky Way, and the Seven Sisters. Stargazing here is a magical experience, with the lack of light pollution offering a pristine view of the cosmos.

(Please note: For the safety of the animals, we do not disclose the precise location of either rhino or pangolin sightings. Accompanying pictures are from our Kwando Photo Library which consists of all your great photo submissions over the years, it may not be the most up to date, but we felt it was worthy of a feature alongside this month’s Sightings Report!)

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African wild dogs were found satiated after making a kill. They were seen chasing a red-billed spurfowl, accompanied by a cacophony of bird warning calls. 

Later, they encountered the Airstrip Pride of lions, leading to an intense interaction between the two predator species.

Leopards lay in wait 

While we paused to observe a group of springboks along Phukwi Road, a sudden commotion caught our attention. Within moments, the springboks bolted, engulfing us in a cloud of dust. Puzzled by their sudden departure, we scanned the area and were astonished to spot a female leopard by the side of the vehicle. Witnessing the stealthy movements of this magnificent predator in such close proximity was remarkable! 

Two male lion tracks were discovered along Phukwi Road leading to Passarge Waterhole. Following the tracks, guides anticipated the lions would head to the waterhole and indeed found a female and two large males from the Tau Pan Pride quenching their thirst. Another notable waterhole sighting was seeing a pale chanting goshawk with a small mole snake. 

Gemsbok chase a cheetah

A male cheetah was found resting at Sunday Waterhole. The guides and trackers observed this beautiful animal and anticipated it might attempt to hunt as a group of springbok approached to drink nearby. However, a few gemsbok were already at the waterhole, and warning calls were issued. Then, the group of gemsbok chased the cheetah and disappeared into the bush.

Despite the dry conditions, particularly around Tau Pan and Passage Valley, the Kalahari landscape retained its beauty. While some areas showed signs of dryness, pockets of greenery persisted, especially around the camp. Trees remained verdant, attracting giraffes, although certain species like trumpet thorns and brandy bushes showed signs of drying. 

Gemsboks, springboks, and giraffes were commonly sighted, with wildebeests congregating at San Pan and Passarge Valley due to the relatively lush vegetation. Although brown hyenas were elusive, their tracks were spotted along the roads, indicating their presence in the area. Ground squirrels, yellow mongooses and slender mongooses, bat-eared foxes, black-backed jackals, and occasionally ostriches with chicks were also observed.

Birdwatching in Passarge Valley

Passarge Valley offered excellent birdwatching opportunities, particularly for raptors such as African harrier hawks, black-chested snake eagles, and brown snake eagles. Insect sightings included grasshoppers, ground beetles, giant jewel beetles, African monarch butterflies, and brown-veined butterflies. Near the camp, colourful birds like swallow-tailed bee-eaters and lilac-breasted rollers could be easily photographed snapping at the insects. Violet-eared waxbills were also common.  

Come evening, constellations such as the Southern Cross, Musca the Bee, False Cross, Canis Major, and Canis Minor adorned the night sky, and we watched the stunning spectacle seated around the campfire.

(Please note: For the safety of the animals, we do not disclose the precise location of either rhino or pangolin sightings. Accompanying pictures are from our Kwando Photo Library which consists of all your great photo submissions over the years, it may not be the most up to date, but we felt it was worthy of a feature alongside this month’s Sightings Report!)

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The pan has been unusually dry this month. Consequently, we embarked on longer drives from the camp. Despite the uncommon conditions, our epic expeditions had many exciting moments! 

The most memorable? Watching approximately eight black-backed jackals join forces to confront a baby oryx. This young oryx had become separated from its mother due to a bull attempting to mate with her.

The jackals persistently tested their luck for about 10 to 15 minutes until the same bull that had chased the mother returned to the rescue. However, the jackals did not easily relent, continuing their challenges until we departed as the sun descended. 

The plentiful joys of Passarge Valley

Many of our best general game sightings occurred along the Passarge waterhole to Passarge Valley, where we watched numerous oryx with their young, springboks with offspring, wildebeests, and occasionally a few red hartebeests. We also encountered one timid brown hyena on the route to the Passarge waterhole from the camp, before it swiftly disappeared.

A cheetah mother of three cubs, estimated to be 7 to 8 months old, was observed resting under a buffalo horn acacia at the Passarge waterhole. Following that, she was sighted along Phukwi Pan for three consecutive days. Another mother, accompanied by a subadult cub, was glimpsed on the northern part of Tau Pan during one of the afternoon drives. Additionally, two subadult cubs were seen at Letiahau Pan, resting on the roadside, leading us to assume that their mother had left them, possibly for hunting.

The scarcity of rainfall significantly influenced the movement patterns of local prides, including the resident Tau Pan pride. During one morning activity, we encountered the airstrip pride attempting to hunt adult giraffes, but the endeavour yielded no positive results. Due to the heat, they sought shade under an acacia tree on the roadside. The same pride, accompanied by two of the five dominant males, was spotted at Passarge Valley, feasting on an oryx. At times, the Tau Pan pride ventured into camp, entertaining with their playful activities and creating noise, and in the mornings, they frequented the waterhole, offering a picturesque view from the deck of the main area. The last three days of the month were particularly special, as our resident pride was consistently present in the camp, even during the nighttime. 

A resident subadult leopard female attuned to our movements, and one morning, she visited the poolside while we tucked into breakfast around the fire. 

Busy families of bat-eared foxes and ground squirrels contributed to the lively atmosphere in and around Tau Pan. We also spotted secretarybirds twice this month on the hunt. Additionally, sightings of a pale chanting goshawk, Gabar goshawk, and peregrine falcons added to the avian diversity around the pan. 

Limited rainfall prompted many animals to migrate to other areas. The harsh Kalahari landscape featured trees gradually turning brown, and temperatures reached a maximum of 42 degrees. Natural waterholes were dry, and animals relied solely on pumped waterholes. Elephants hovered in the area seeking water, but encounters were limited to tracking their footprints and dung along our game drive routes. 

(Please note: For the safety of the animals, we do not disclose the precise location of either rhino or pangolin sightings. Accompanying pictures are from our Kwando Photo Library which consists of all your great photo submissions over the years, it may not be the most up to date, but we felt it was worthy of a feature alongside this month’s Sightings Report!)

Comments closed