Category: Nxai Pan

During September, Nxai Pan was a popular spot. A pride of five lions, including three lionesses and two cubs, were often seen strutting around the camp in the evening, especially around 7:30 pm when guests gathered for drinks near the bar and dining area.

Persistent tracking led us to a leopard stealthily on the trail of steenboks along the boundary road between the park and the Phuduhudu village. We watched the leopard for a while before it disappeared, leaving the outcome to the whims of fate. We also located male cheetah tracks along the main road leading to Baines’ Baobabs.

The stunning onset of spring in the Makgadikgadi Salt Pans

Nxai Pan has a stunning landscape with open grounds and diverse acacia trees. As spring arrived, blackthorn and water acacia trees started to bloom, adding a charming and colourful tinge to the landscape.

As always, the Baines Baobabs’ region offered a breathtaking panorama of the Makgadikgadi Salt Pans. During hotter spells of the day, mirages appeared on the faraway horizon, creating the illusion of water in the distance.

Evenings were equally enchanting with spectacular displays of stars and familiar constellations visible, including Canopus, Scorpio, the Southern Cross, and the Two Pointers. Guests and guides also witnessed meteors and meteorites, adding an unforgettable awe to celestial observations from the deck at Nxai Pan Camp.

As temperatures climbed through the day, elephants, buffalos, and warthogs found respite in the mud by wallowing at the waterhole to regulate their body temperatures. Other animals, such as wildebeests, zebras, springboks, and giraffes, were also seen. Steenboks, scrub hares, black-backed jackals, honey badgers, and yellow mongooses were also repeatedly encountered throughout the month.

Various raptors were logged onto our sightings report, including pale chanting goshawks, black-chested snake eagles, secretary birds, greater kestrels, and the impressive white-backed and lappet-faced vultures.

(Please note: For the safety of the animals, we do not disclose the precise location of either rhino or pangolin sightings. Accompanying pictures are from our Kwando Photo Library which consists of all your great photo submissions over the years, it may not be the most up to date, but we felt it was worthy of a feature alongside this month’s Sightings Report!)

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Lion sightings around Nxai Pan were a little thin over the first few days of August. Their roars and calls echoed through the night alongside the whoops and hollers of the spotted hyenas, but witnessing them proved fleeting.

However, fantastic lion observations soon proved ample. One day, in the early hours, three lionesses and their cubs took down a subadult kudu at the waterhole near South Camp. A few days later, observant guests scanned the Nxai Pan Camp waterhole and watched as a lioness attempted to surprise a family of warthogs after brunch. The lioness missed and swiftly retreated into the trumpet thorn thickets.

An African wild cat’s tussle with three jackals was another of August’s most intriguing sightings.

Buffalo herds at Nxai Pan Camp

There were many occasions when over a hundred buffaloes frequented the camp waterhole, visiting during early and late hours, occasionally even lingering around the camp overnight. Male buffalo groups also made their presence known.

Unpredictable weather lured large herds of elephants, arriving around noon and staying until late hours or even spending the night. Nxai Pan National Park showcased the rest of its stunning wildlife, including wildebeests, impalas, springboks, kudus, giraffes, oryx, and zebras. Steenboks were spotted in their monogamous pairs or solitary, enjoying the green shoots of grass and leaves.

Honey badgers appeared near the camp and by the pan, hunting small prey, and we caught the small-spotted genets in our torch lights after dinner as they casually foraged between the rooms.

During the early mornings and late afternoons, scrub hares would venture out in search of food while avoiding the midday heat. At the same time, bat-eared fox packs were active, taking advantage of the most favourable feeding times. Meanwhile, helmeted guinea fowls were enjoying a feast of the last remaining grass seeds and insects, such as grasshoppers and harvester termites. Black-backed jackals often interrupted these poor birds, chasing and scattering the guinea fowls.

Birdwatching enthusiasts and amateurs alike were delighted with sightings of the Makgadikgadi’s resident birds, such as pale chanting goshawks capturing prey, tawny eagles, and secretarybirds. The waterholes teemed with doves and sandgrouse, either drinking or soaring overhead. The grey-backed and chestnut-backed sparrow larks were frequent visitors.

A rock monitor lizard was spotted along the main road to Baines Baobabs, stealthily searching for food. These lizards are skilled at scaling trees, rocks, and cliffs, using their strong claws and long tails for balance and support. Despite their relatively large size, they are agile and can navigate various terrains with remarkable dexterity. This exceptional climbing ability allows them to access elevated locations where they often find shelter, rest, and nest away from danger.

Winter skies at Nxai Pan Camp

The last of our winter skies provided stunning celestial displays of constellations like the Southern Cross, Musca, and Scorpio during late hours. Constellations such as Orion, Canis Major, and Canis Minor set early in the month. Even Venus made an appearance in the evening and early morning.

Leopards, on the other hand, remained more elusive, leaving only their tracks around the camp. Closely monitoring their imprints, we know a diverse community roamed the area, including cubs and larger individuals, while smaller tracks traced the main road to Baines’ Baobabs.

(Please note: For the safety of the animals, we do not disclose the precise location of either rhino or pangolin sightings. Accompanying pictures are from our Kwando Photo Library which consists of all your great photo submissions over the years, it may not be the most up to date, but we felt it was worthy of a feature alongside this month’s Sightings Report!)

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Nxai Pan Camp closes during June every year for maintenance. We look forward to reporting what was seen in July!

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During their safari, guests were treated to a thrilling experience as they followed the tracks of a majestic male lion in search of water in front of Nxai Pan Camp.

They discovered more lion tracks along the road to Baines’ Baobab, offering a glimpse into the world of lionesses and their adorable cubs.

Lions on the way to Baines’ Baobabs

They were awe-struck when they came across a resting lioness taking shelter under a bush while scanning the vast Kalahari plains. Unexpectedly, a male elephant appeared, further adding to the spectacle!

However, the highlight of their adventure was witnessing a lioness enjoy a wildebeest meal, while black-backed jackals and pied crows gathered around. The presence of circling vultures hinted at the possibility of an unseen lion nearby. At Baines’ Baobab, they stumbled upon a pride of five contented lions, including two lionesses and three well-fed cubs, who were leisurely lounging on the road!

We tracked a female leopard on her journey back to an area where we suspected she had hidden her precious cubs near the route to Baines’ Baobab. Guides glimpsed the leopardess as she quenched her thirst at a natural water hole along the West Road. Later, she tested her hunting skills on impalas, showcasing the true essence of a predator’s challenge.

Every dawn brought fresh tracks of the enigmatic African wild dogs, teasing us. Although we did not spot them this time, their unseen presence added an air of intrigue to our wildlife encounters. The melodious songs of the diverse range of larks filled the air during every activity, including the locally confined subspecies, the Dusky lark.  

Astounding raptors of the Makgadikgadi

Guests marvelled at the aerial prowess as majestic raptors skilfully navigated the thermal currents, effortlessly gliding through the skies. A fascinating sight awaited them as vultures congregated around a zebra carcass cleverly concealed beneath the shade of a small acacia tree. While the elusive big cat responsible for the kill remained unseen, the signs of its presence were evident.

The remarkable hunting skills of the secretary bird were also displayed as it pursued small prey and relished its hard-earned meal. The agile African harrier hawk, also known as the gymnogene, showcased its unique ability to bend its legs forward and backwards to extract victims from hidden crevices. One memorable encounter involved a gymnogene landing on a log, unintentionally disrupting a glossy starling’s breeding site and causing a commotion among the helpless chicks.

(Please note: For the safety of the animals, we do not disclose the precise location of either rhino or pangolin sightings. Accompanying pictures are from our Kwando Photo Library which consists of all your great photo submissions over the years, it may not be the most up to date, but we felt it was worthy of a feature alongside this month’s Sightings Report!)

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The rains finally arrived, and Nxai Pan was a spectrum of beautiful colours. The impressive resident Kalahari black-maned lions stood out amongst the yellow, green, and orange blossoms and fields.

Why do lions of the Kalahari have black manes?

There are plenty of theories to account for a darker mane, including making the males more attractive to a potential mate, more intimidating to rivals and higher testosterone levels. There is also a curious view that a black-maned lion will recover quicker from wounds than other lions. Regardless, being more prevalent in arid savannah regions such as the Central Kalahari and the Makgadikgadi Salt Pans, the mane is undoubtedly a product of the dry and harsh environment to which they are acclimated.

The resident male was seen in the company of a lioness with a cub and seemed well inclined towards the little one, which means there is a good chance it may be one of his offspring. South of Nxai Pan, we also spent time with three healthy lionesses and their six cubs. The cubs were still too young to join the fray, but we watched the three adults hunting several times.

Another resident, a male cheetah, was frequently spotted between the camp waterhole and the main Nxai Pan waterhole. He looked well-fed and content taking advantage of the grasses for extra camouflage while stalking his prey. His evident level of contentment may be fuelled by all the new springbok young we saw on the pan. Although they are “up and running” not long after birth, the springbok young rely heavily on their mother’s lessons and instructions. The cheetah is an expert in separating them, making the young antelope more vulnerable.

The Nxai Pan zebra migration has commenced

Alongside the arrival of the newborn springboks, we saw the start of the zebra migration. Plains zebra will converge on Nxai Pan in the coming months from north, south, east, and west. The zebras that have been taking advantage of the Boteti River waters to the south have started moving north, and we saw the arrival of these zebra. However, the Chobe and the Delta residents will soon join them to complete one of the largest mammal migrations in Africa.

With the arrival of the zebra, we also eagerly await the flocks of breeding flamingos that love to congregate at Kudiakam Pan under the watchful eyes of Baines Baobabs. After the first rains, the pan began to fill with water and brought some fantastic birdlife. Plovers, sandpipers and other waterfowls were a welcome addition to the incredible stories shared with guests below the giant baobabs. The baobabs looked very handsome with their new leaves and flowers. Some of them already had fruits too.

The baby ostriches still run amok and have been joined by other ground-nesting birds, such as the Double-banded coursers whose chicks are emerging to forage alongside the breeding herds of blue wildebeests, giraffes, and bat-eared foxes. The jackals were also aware of the baby coursers and until they fledge and can fly (at about five to six weeks), the adult coursers kept a watchful eye on their young.

Rampant raptor sightings at Nxai Pan during summer

We had great raptor sightings throughout the month, including goshawks, tawny eagles, secretarybirds and the majestic martial eagle. These didn’t hesitate to pounce on a distracted courser and, in the case of the martial eagle, even provided a threat to baby antelopes! It always pays to be on your guard in Nxai Pan.

Migrant birds logged this month include lesser grey and Red-backed shrikes, Lanner falcons, Grey crowned cranes, Yellow-billed kites, and Black cuckoos. They have feasted upon the flush of insect life during the day, and we enjoyed watching community nest spiders foraging at night. 

(Please note: For the safety of the animals, we do not disclose the location of either rhino or pangolin sightings. Accompanying pictures are from our Kwando Photo Library which consists of all your great photo submissions over the years, it may not be the most up to date, but we felt it was worthy of a feature alongside this month’s Sightings Report!)

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With the rain tantalisingly close but not arriving until late November, the elephants were a staple sighting at Nxai Pan Camp. 

At almost all times of day, the herds shuffled in and out, entertaining us with drinking, bathing, and playing. Two youngsters, in particular, delighted in the waterhole, wallowing, splashing, and trumpeting their way through the day. It was a lovely time of year to simply sit on the sprawling Nxai Pan Camp deck, sip on a gin and tonic and watch the sun turn a deep red in the west as it dropped through the dust particles thrown up by the next herd of incoming elephants.

Wildlife at the waterhole

With the lack of water at this time of year, we didn’t have to go far for action; much of it came to us! We watched both leopard and cheetah drinking at the waterhole from the main area, and the cheetah took up residence around camp. African wild dogs were in the area, too and we identified their tracks. However, with lions hunting continuously, the canines, quite rightly, don’t seem too keen to cross paths. 

The lions had a successful month. We located them eating wildebeest and springbok, but they always appeared well-fed and content whenever we came across them: impressive, given they had minimal cover from which to hunt. One of the lionesses was also heavily pregnant, and we anticipate the new cubs will arrive in conjunction with the rains. 

Antics at the aardwolf den

Earlier in the month, we found an aardwolf den and watched his comings and goings late in the afternoon and early in the morning. With the hodotermitidae (harvester) termites forming most of their diet, Nxai Pan is ideal for them. As aardwolves are happy to share their territories with others, there may be other dens nearby which would explain the high number of aardwolf tracks we regularly witnessed each morning.

The Nxai Pan birdlife certainly did not disappoint. The Pale chanting goshawk showed off its hunting technique, and we saw one resident kill both a snouted cobra and a western stripe-bellied sand snake. While the venom of the latter wouldn’t be too off-putting for the goshawk, the snouted cobra is another matter altogether. A snake with a potent neurotoxic venom, one false move by the goshawk would quickly result in the hunter becoming the hunted. The raptor’s poise and precision when attacking a cobra were quite something to see. 

New life at Nxai Pan

There was plenty of excitement at the first batch of springbok lambs, but what really captivated us were the new ostrich chicks living next to Nxai Pan camp.

We often saw them charging around, shepherded by their ever-vigilant parents. Lions, leopards and cheetahs will be eyeing them hungrily. However, these predators must also be wary. An enraged ostrich is not something to mess with!

(Please note: For the safety of the animals, we do not disclose the location of either rhino or pangolin sightings. Accompanying pictures are from our Kwando Photo Library which consists of all your great photo submissions over the years, it may not be the most up to date, but we felt it was worthy of a feature alongside this month’s Sightings Report!)

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Even with the onset of rains and increased water availability in the Makgadikgadi landscape, the Nxai Pan Camp waterhole remained an animal magnet. This month’s most special sighting was watching a confident brown hyena bathing in broad daylight!

Typically nocturnal and shy, this male took his time first sipping water before stepping in, enjoying a cooling soak, and splashing about for over an hour. Big breeding herds of elephants also streamed to the water source and entertained us with messy mud baths. The baby elephants learning to use their trunks were a particularly delightful sight!

Vultures plus jackals equals?

Soaring vultures repeatedly gave away the lions of Nxai Pan National Park this month. One morning, we scoured the skies, and our feathered friends helped us locate three lionesses and a male lion feasting on an adult female buffalo at the waterhole near South Camp. The fresh carcass was a hive of activity. Black-backed jackals prowled the edges of the scene while Tawny eagles, Yellow-billed kites and Pied crows lined the tree branches. These birds are often the first indicators of a new kill and tend to arrive on the scene before the vultures.

Another great morning, a series of haunting jackal alarm calls drew us to the north side of camp, and we uncovered a pair of mating lions. We followed them as they lazily made their way to the camp waterhole and guests photographed them drinking water in gorgeous morning light.  

The resident male cheetah was seen along the Middle road, and there were frequent sightings of foraging bat-eared foxes in the same area. An aardwolf family remained in residence along Baobab Loop road, and we loved watching their antics (or should that be ant-licks?)

At twilight one day, an African wild cat slowly crossed the road granting the perfect photographic opportunity to snap this evening animal. On a day trip to Baines’ Baobabs and Kudiakam Pan, we located several dazzles of plains zebras and a big herd of gemsbok. Giraffes, blue wildebeests, impalas, and vast springbok herds were also regulars on game drives.

The first rain showers triggered the revival of cicadas, brown-veined white butterflies and African monarchs, which kept the summer visitors well-fed. Birds recorded in October include a large flock of beautiful Blue-cheeked bee-eaters, a high number of Lesser grey shrikes, Red-backed shrikes and Carmine bee-eaters. Crowned lapwing chicks meanwhile welcomed guests to the airstrip.

(Please note: For the safety of the animals, we do not disclose the location of either rhino or pangolin sightings. Accompanying pictures are from our Kwando Photo Library which consists of all your great photo submissions over the years, it may not be the most up to date, but we felt it was worthy of a feature alongside this month’s Sightings Report!)

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Cheetah passed through Nxai Pan regularly this month, and one morning, a pair of African wild dogs joined guests for breakfast when they stopped to sip from the waterhole in front of camp!

However, the concentration of lions around these last water sources made other predators very mindful when coming to drink. The success of the Nxai Pan lions has been well-documented in the past few months. Sometimes it’s inevitable that prey fights back.

Buffalo calf trumps lioness

At 4.30am, the first hint of sunlight peeped from below the horizon. Camp stirred with guides on their way to knock their friendly wake-up calls. However, one morning the alarm call was different when dawn was abruptly punctuated by the thunderous sound of hooves. A herd of buffalo, spooked by a lone lioness, bolted for the perceived safety of the bush near camp.

When light enough around the firepit, we saw a lioness had attacked a young cow. She tried to seize the animal alone, but the feisty calf shook the lioness off, who then uttered a low call for the pride to assist. Simultaneously, the potential prey likewise hollered for help and the buffalos were first to answer the calls. Seeing the lioness alone, the herd warily approached in ones and twos, until eventually charging en masse. Vastly outnumbered, the lioness retreated, and the injured calf re-joined her hero herd. We saw the little calf several times since the attack, bearing the battle scars but apparently none the worse.

As temperatures rose through September, the lions sought shade at the hottest time of the day. One day they settled not far from the main area, and we monitored them as they scanned the waterhole. Well camouflaged, they raised their heads when a small kudu herd approached. As the antelope cautiously started to drink, the lions locked target and shot forward in a cloud of dust. Lions can move at speeds of more than 70kph, but the wary kudus were quicker, and the pride returned huffing and puffing to the shade.

Reptiles and raptors

As grasses withered, it opened up new foraging for large bird species. It was fantastic to watch ostriches, Kori bustards and the stately Secretary bird strut their stuff across the plains. The Secretarybird has an incredible way of hunting. Their stamping technique may seem a strange way of killing prey. However, they can hit targets in approximately a tenth of a second while applying a pressure of almost five times their body weight. The snakes that have resurrected with the warmth best watch where they slither.

Honey badgers were not perturbed by the rise of reptile activity and were found foraging along the roadside, and the clever Pale chanting goshawks kept an eye out for anything it missed.

What to see on a day trip to Baines’ Baobabs?

At Baines Baobabs, areas near the trees were burnt by a bushfire, and a few springboks, steenbok and gemsbok fed on the roasted fodder. Nearing the end of our dry season, it’s been windy, and out on the salt pans, we saw great dust clouds whipped up in massive whirlwinds that spiralled hundreds of feet into the air.

Early morning proved the best time to be out in the bush with elephants, springbok, blue wildebeest, bat-eared foxes, and sometimes spotted hyenas seeking water before the temperature increased. The elephants made for great photography subjects as they covered themselves with white sand and earth, and youngsters plunged into the shallow pan to cool off. 

(Please note: For the safety of the animals, we do not disclose the location of either rhino or pangolin sightings. Accompanying pictures are from our Kwando Photo Library which consists of all your great photo submissions over the years, it may not be the most up to date, but we felt it was worthy of a feature alongside this month’s Sightings Report!)

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Winter at Nxai Pan brought crisp, chilled air perfect for photography and gorgeous night skies. Now that the natural pans have dried up, animals spent more and more time frequenting the permanent waterhole at camp, which meant full bellies for many of the lions we saw around Nxai Pan Camp this month.

On one occasion, we found two lionesses on a Springbok kill, while seven of the Nxai Pan Pride were found on a freshly killed kudu which they relished until the dominant male came to help himself and took away the remains.

A feline affair

We had brief sightings of a Spotted hyena, plus cheetahs and leopards, but the Nxai Pan pride reigned supreme. They will, however, need to keep their eyes open. One evening we stopped for sundowners and heard roaring from a few kilometres away. We packed up and, G&T in hand, headed off towards the booming lion calls. Upon arrival, we were stunned to find a nomadic male lion mating with one of the Nxai Pan pride females.

Given the strength in numbers of the Nxai Pan pride, we could only admire the courage of the nomadic male who had strolled into their territory. Lion mating rituals last some time, and if the pride males get wind of him and track him down, he will face serious consequences. We haven’t spotted the nomadic male since, so he likely made good on his escape.

Awesome Aardwolf sightings

Our sightings of Aardwolf have continued, and they have been seen wandering close to the camp on several occasions. As previously reported, they are seldom-seen creatures, so we always count ourselves lucky to have spent so much precious time with them. The open veld at the airstrip also granted wonderful wildlife viewing, including Black-backed jackals, Caracals, and Bat-eared foxes.  

A male baboon was also seen drinking briefly at the camp waterhole but quickly dashed back into the tree line.

Then, we had the distinct pleasure of seeing a mother and baby Honey badger strolling across open grassland! Given its fearsome reputation, the Honey badger can probably allow itself an air of nonchalance. Even lions have learned the hard way that they are not to be messed with. Mum was likely taking Junior out to learn self-defence. 

That is not the only creature with a reputation in the bush. On the road to the airstrip, we stopped to watch the graceful Black mamba glide across the track. Their name is often met with fear, which lies in its potent neurotoxic venom, but it’s worth noting that a Black mamba will almost certainly turn tail and vanish if you encounter one. And before you judge them, ponder this. In the past ten years, it has been discovered that mamba venom contains a powerful painkiller. As potent as morphine but without many of the side effects. Despite the fear their name instils, perhaps your pain medication will come from the mamba in the future! 

Nxai Pan has also been alive with herbivores, including Red hartebeests, Oryx, Springbok, Kudu, and a journey of 57 Giraffes. This large grouping of giraffes has been a wonder in recent months in Nxai Pan as it is unusual to find them in such numbers.

Last but certainly not least, there was a Pale-chanting goshawk feeding on a Ground agama, and plenty of different species of birds and Black-backed jackals fed on termites. There were Tawny eagles, Cattle egrets, Steppe buzzards, Gabar goshawks, Brown snake-eagles and elegant Bateleurs.

(Please note: For the safety of the animals, we do not disclose the location of either rhino or pangolin sightings. Accompanying pictures are from our Kwando Photo Library, which consists of all your great photo submissions over the years, it may not be the most up-to-date, but we felt it was worthy of a feature alongside this month’s Sightings Report!)

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As the herbivores sought the water in the few remaining waterholes, the lions lay in wait.

The Nxai Pan pride is eleven-strong in number and well practised in the hunt. Over ten days, we found them feeding on zebra, kudu, wildebeest, and springbok. On one occasion, this led to family strife as the male strode in to take over a kudu carcass, only for the lionesses to register their disagreement with his arrogance. Paws and claws were drawn, and they settled their dispute with a bout of fisticuffs. The male eventually asserted his position as head of the table and wandered off with the kudu remains. Despite this slight disagreement, the pride was looking strong for the coming winter with their bellies full.

We also watched the mating rituals of the dominant male lion and his paramour on a day trip to Baines Baobabs. Lion mating rituals are the stuff of legend, lasting three to four days with the couple repeating every half an hour. (You do the maths.) Lionesses have a gestation period of approximately four months, so if they were successful, we’re sure to hear the patter of tiny paws later in the dry season. 

The cheetahs have also been busy, and we witnessed an unsuccessful hunt near the camp. After a failed chase in the midday heat, the male decided it was still too hot to reach the required speeds. Instead, it took up station in the bush, scanning the open ground for prey while our happy guests snapped away.

A giant journey of giraffe

Nxai Pan hosts a wide array of herbivores for all these predators to thrive. We sat in awe as a journey of 57 giraffes grouped together, which is rarely seen in such numbers. Our guides expertly moved ahead of the herd and sat quietly for a time, allowing the vast collection of tall mammals to pass close by before they elegantly sashayed off into the bush.

We also had the privilege of seeing the Plains zebras as they commenced their long return migration north out of Nxai Pan, heading back towards the Chobe River. 

Caracal, aardwolf, a baby honey badger (small but deadly!), and baby Bat-eared foxes (perhaps the cutest of them all) were all seen during night drives. 

There’s a star man waiting in the sky

Nxai Pan is a stargazer’s paradise, where history is written in the skies, and local celestial tales can be related all night long. However, sometimes these huge skies come to us. This month our guests were treated to a large flash as a meteorite lit up the sky over the camp and headed south.

The last time this famously happened was in 2018, when a fireball shot across the sky and landed in the Central Kalahari Game Reserve. The meteorite was found and named after a local waterhole called Motopi Pan. Scientists believe it started its journey to earth some 23 million years ago. Now that shows some serious safari commitment for anyone who has ever doubted that the remote Kalahari is worth the trip!   

(Please note: For the safety of the animals, we do not disclose the location of either rhino or pangolin sightings. Accompanying pictures are from our Kwando Photo Library which consists of all your great photo submissions over the years, it may not be the most up to date, but we felt it was worthy of a feature alongside this month’s Sightings Report!)

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