Category: Moremi Crossing

Often spotted between Tents 8 and 9, guests revelled in the rare sighting of a feathered basso.

Much like a soprano, but with a bass voice or vocal part, the Pel’s fishing owl is a large and striking bird that boasts dark brown plumage, a broad face, and calls with a low, deep hoot that’s audible from 3km away.

The Pel’s fishing owl thrives in riverine habitats characterized by slow-flowing or still water, such as lagoons, swamps, and riverbanks, making the Okavango Delta’s water channels and lagoons (as found near Moremi Crossing Camp) an optimal environment for habitation.

The predators of Moremi Crossing Camp

Two prides paraded the Gunn’s Private Concession — one flaunting five lionesses, the other a formidable six-member crew victorious in toppling buffalos. There are also dominant males, the Moremi Boys. Lions share the Okavango Delta with other predators, such as leopards, cheetahs, and African wild dogs. Interactions between these species, including competition for prey and conflicts over territory, contribute to the dynamic ecosystem of the delta. 

A resident leopard revealed her covert life with a newborn cub in the shadowy realms. Leopard cubs are typically born in a litter of one to three cubs and remain with their mother for an extended period because she is solely responsible for hunting and providing food.

The Matsebe pack of 15 African wild dogs made several appearances. The group included seven playful puppies and eight seasoned adults who had no trouble felling a red lechwe during one unforgettable afternoon drive. African wild dogs are highly social animals, living in packs led by an alpha pair. These packs can vary in size, typically ranging from 6 to 20 individuals, but larger packs have been observed (for example, 29 animals in the Kwara Private Concession). Social bonds are vital within the pack, and they exhibit cooperative behaviours such as communal care of the young and group hunting.

Mma Leitho, a hyena matriarch, nurtured four fuzzy companions in the southeast, but their den site remained a secret cocoon. Dozens of Peters’ epauletted fruit bats hung like living chandeliers from the main area, a fascinating spectacle for our enchanted visitors. 

Our safari guests, seekers of connection, found solace in nature walks on Chief’s Island. On the wide-open floodplains, elephants, zebras, lechwe, impalas, tsessebe, warthogs, giraffes, and buffalo were easy to spot from a distance. Animals gathered at the last reservoirs in this flat geography as the Boro River’s water levels receded further in response to the relentless October sun.  

(Please note: For the safety of the animals, we do not disclose the precise location of either rhino or pangolin sightings. Accompanying pictures are from our Kwando Photo Library which consists of all your great photo submissions over the years, it may not be the most up to date, but we felt it was worthy of a feature alongside this month’s Sightings Report!)

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At Moremi Crossing, a highlight of August guests won’t soon forget was witnessing the intense battle between a leopard and a monitor lizard.

Water levels at Moremi Crossing

The Boro River had less water than previous years during this flood season. After an initial flush of water, the river’s level gradually decreased, indicating an earlier dry period for September. Despite this, the receding waters revealed a thriving habitat for hippos and fish eagles (whose calls resonated across the riverbed) and more extensive game drive networks for tracking animals.

On a single excursion, guests often spotted highly sought-after species: sightings of lion kills and hunts, observing the stealthy movements of leopards, and witnessing the swift elegance of cheetahs. The area also boasted an impressive variety of reptiles, including crocodiles, water monitor lizards, a diverse array of snakes, water scorpions, giant bullfrogs, thick-tailed scorpions, and petite and strikingly colourful Angolan reed frogs.

The Moremi ecosystem teemed with diverse insects such as stick insects, grasshoppers, and ants, each playing a unique role in this thriving habitat, such as feeding the contented insect-eaters. Birdlife in the area was diverse and thriving.

This period marked the arrival of yellow-billed kites, carmine bee-eaters, magnificent great white pelicans, vibrant swallow-tailed bee-eaters, glossy ibises, spoonbill storks, red-billed teals, and the majestic broad-billed roller.

August also brought the stirring promise of spring to Moremi Crossing. Mornings arrived with a refreshing coolness that slowly yielded to the day’s warmth by late morning. The evenings were serene and calm, accompanied by a return to cooler temperatures, prompting the donning of jackets and huddling around the campfire.

(Please note: For the safety of the animals, we do not disclose the precise location of either rhino or pangolin sightings. Accompanying pictures are from our Kwando Photo Library which consists of all your great photo submissions over the years, it may not be the most up to date, but we felt it was worthy of a feature alongside this month’s Sightings Report!)

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We observed a coalition of two male cheetahs resting near a termite mound in the western part of Sedudu.

Another alliance, consisting of two brothers, captivated us in the southwest direction of Sibanda’s Island. Many of our guests had their first-ever glimpse of these magnificent creatures and were truly enthralled!

From gentle morning showers to evening drizzles, the ever-changing atmosphere of April brought a refreshing coolness to the Gunn’s Private Reserve.

The lions and leopards spotted at Moremi Crossing

Lion encounters began with a thrilling sighting of two male lions forming a powerful coalition near Rra Lopang’s island.

A pride of nine lions showcased their hunting skills as they pursued an impala. We also observed three lions leisurely roaming near the camp. Another memorable moment occurred when two male lions engaged in a fierce battle with a rival coalition over a kill. It was fascinating to witness their dominance. We discovered that these territorial conquerors were the same pair encountered in previous months.

We spotted six magnificent leopards. One memorable sighting involved a male leopard near a towering tree, focused on a young red lechwe. As the sun set, another leopard emerged, displaying its grace and stealth. Our resident female leopard revealed herself while a male leopard embarked on an exhilarating hunt in the east. Witnessing two male leopards enjoying an impala lamb kill was a true highlight. Another magical moment occurred near Nxaraga Crossing, where two male leopards enchanted guests.

The energetic and social African wild dogs made their mark on our safaris. A pack of eight was spotted during a morning drive and we marvelled at their synchronized movements. We witnessed their impressive hunting skills several days later as they devoured an impala kill. Another sighting occurred in the east as the pack of eight traversed the landscape toward the hippo pool.

Spotted hyenas, side-striped jackals and black-backed jackals were frequent sightings during our morning and evening drives. Hyena calls created a captivating nocturnal symphony around the camp every evening.

(Please note: For the safety of the animals, we do not disclose the precise location of either rhino or pangolin sightings. Accompanying pictures are from our Kwando Photo Library which consists of all your great photo submissions over the years, it may not be the most up to date, but we felt it was worthy of a feature alongside this month’s Sightings Report!)

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The Boro River (which feeds this game-rich Moremi Crossing area) was almost at its lowest before the summer rains arrived, but November showers brought new life as the Woodland kingfishers called out their song and serenaded the new baby warthogs and impalas.

With the river waning, we covered greater distances than any other time of year. The night drives and offroad options yielded great sightings of leopard, African wild cat and the elusive yet most awesome of predators: the black-footed cat!

Weighing less than two kilograms but able to jump over a metre into the air, this fantastic (yet fluffy) sighting is perhaps one of the most lethal predators we know of in the bush, with a hunting success rate that rivals the African wild dogs.

Little lions and birding splendour

The principal lion pride in the area numbered around ten, including their young and boisterous cubs. The cubs practised their tree climbing skills, which came with mixed results, including a couple of heavy falls and sibling rivalry. After several hard knocks, they returned to basics and rehearsed on fallen trees instead – much easier to climb! The two big pride males ruled this territory, and their displays of brotherly affection made them a firm guest favourite.

We saw them regularly, sunning themselves before and after the storm clouds rolled in. When we didn’t locate them during the day, their calls often punctuated the night as they patrolled their territory and occasionally joined the hunt.

Over three weeks, the bush went from dusty and dry grasses to a beautiful green with myriad trees and bushes flowering. The birdlife was excellent, and spending time at one of the many large waterholes allowed birders to tick off dozens of species. The pelicans, storks, geese, herons, stilts, and many colourful species created a string of humming coffee stop spots to admire the scenery. The plentiful hippo population was always on hand to give a photo-grabbing yawn.

Pel’s fishing owl still roosting among us

The resident Pels fishing owl has found his favourite roosting spot high in a Jackalberry tree near the central area. He regularly hunted in the channel before camp, giving lucky guests some splendid sightings every week.

The hyenas were also very active. We often found them close to the airstrip first thing in the morning as the adults brought back breakfast for the youngsters, who steadily grew bigger and stronger. They kept a wary eye as the two pride males patrolled not far from their den. For now, the lions mostly kept to the other side of the river, which kept the peace, but it won’t take much for these two eternal foes to lock horns.

(Please note: For the safety of the animals, we do not disclose the location of either rhino or pangolin sightings. Accompanying pictures are from our Kwando Photo Library which consists of all your great photo submissions over the years, it may not be the most up to date, but we felt it was worthy of a feature alongside this month’s Sightings Report!)

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The water levels over the Boro River that snakes around Moremi Crossing Camp dropped drastically. However, it was a time of prime game viewing bolstered by an influx of handsome migratory birds.

A crocodile kill viewed from camp

Plenty of general game, including elephants, buffalos and giraffe, zebra, warthog, reedbuck and troops of baboons, was viewed straight from the camp. One day, during a delicious and unforgettable brunch, guests even witnessed a kill when a baboon slaking its thirst was killed by a crocodile!

With the river so low and prey, such as lechwe, assembled at the shores of the main channel near camp, we enjoyed many lion sightings. Lions were spotted taking advantage of the antelope concentrations almost every two days. The waste department division was busy as a result and we watched many Marabou storks and vulture species peck at the remains, cleaning up the lion leftovers.

Pelicans likewise exploited the shallow waters hunting fish trapped in the dwindling ponds. They have flocked in their hundreds and make for an impressive sight when they take off. We’ve enjoyed seeing them soar through the skies, especially at sunset.

A female leopard was discovered near neighbouring Gunn’s Camp, harbouring her little cub in the peaceful trees while the camp remains out of operation. Cheetah sightings were rewarding too. One morning, we saw a female cheetah with two cubs; another day, we located two subadults stalking prey through the grasslands of Chief’s Island.

Pel’s fishing owl in residence

A Pels fishing owl took up residence in the trees close to the main area and we were thrilled to find it fishing one evening, splashing into the river right in front of the dining room! On another eventful evening, we located a serval cat from the main area with the help of a spotlight.

Dragonflies and damselflies were also spotted hovering above the water, albeit during the day.

Plenty of spotted hyenas, side-striped jackals and back-backed jackals were seen in the early mornings and strutting their stuff after dusk. Honey badgers, banded mongooses, large grey mongooses, and porcupines were also witnessed.

(Please note: For the safety of the animals, we do not disclose the location of either rhino or pangolin sightings. Accompanying pictures are from our Kwando Photo Library which consists of all your great photo submissions over the years, it may not be the most up to date, but we felt it was worthy of a feature alongside this month’s Sightings Report!)

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African wild dogs, serval, black-backed jackals, lions, leopards and spotted hyenas graced outings at Moremi Crossing throughout the month. It was especially fascinating to have easy access to the Spotted hyena den near the airstrip, and guests loved watching the stunts of the pups as they emerged, blinking from the den into the bright spring sunshine. 

We also had regular sightings of a leopardess with cubs. Late one afternoon, returning from sundowners, we located a leopard on the stalk. She crept into position with incredible poise. Once within a few metres, she successfully ambushed a red lechwe and pounced to nab a suffocating hold on the struggling antelope.

The lechwe slowly succumbed to the bite, but before it was complete, the leopard released the animal (by now unconscious) and encouraged her young apprentice to complete the act. This did not go well in the first few attempts, but the youngster finally earned a firm grip and finished the task set for her. This critical life skill ensures the future of this young cat, and we’re delighted that Moremi Crossing provides such an excellent schooling environment!

In camp, we saw banded mongooses and small-spotted genets and during mokoro rides, guides noticed reptile life bounced back with the warmth. Frogs, snakes, crocodiles and water monitor lizards were added to the roll call, and the Okavango Delta waters began to drop from their peak. 

As we slowly moved into summer, trees showed their colours, with the Combretum and Sausage trees all flowering. Although they are pollinated by several birds and insects, it is at night that the scent of the Sausage tree flower really flourishes, bringing a fragrance to the night air. (As well as pollinating bats!) 

Beautiful birdlife at Moremi Crossing

The arrival of the summer avian migrants added beauty to the bush. This month we saw African fish eagles, White-backed vultures, Saddle-billed storks, African jacanas, Blacksmith lapwings, Red-billed hornbills, Verreaux’s eagle-owl, Lilac-breasted rollers, Squacco herons and Spur-winged geese. It was especially exciting to have vultures nesting in camp. Over the past few years, many vulture species have fallen victim to poisoning and poaching throughout Southern Africa, and we are thrilled they chose Moremi Crossing to build a home. As one species that helps to “clean up” in the bush, their importance cannot be overemphasized.

Sensational stargazing

Evenings warmed slightly, and we hosted awesome star-gazing sessions on the open airstrip allowing guests to wrap themselves in the universe and learn more about the stars, their stories and the various legends. Here in Botswana, we call the Southern Cross constellation the Dithuthlwa, which means “the giraffes”. Some cultures also believe the Milky Way is a footpath for their ancestors to walk along.

Speaking of the people of Botswana, we celebrated Independence Day at the end of September. We hosted a surprise sundowner for all the guests with Botswana flags and a few traditional snacks, which included waterlily tuber, or Tswii. A local delicacy in the Okavango Delta. 

(Please note: For the safety of the animals, we do not disclose the location of either rhino or pangolin sightings. Accompanying pictures are from our Kwando Photo Library which consists of all your great photo submissions over the years, it may not be the most up to date, but we felt it was worthy of a feature alongside this month’s Sightings Report!)

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Our regular game drive routes gradually grew wetter and muddier as the month progressed due to the rising floodwaters, but guests were rewarded with the abundant game that Chief’s Island is so famous for.

Raised above the water level by tectonic activity, this island is where wildlife retreats as Okavango floodwaters rise, making it home to a dense concentration of wildlife. Game drives provided front-row seats to an astonishing plentitude of fauna. Impala, Giraffe, Plains zebra, Cape buffalo, African elephants, Chacma baboons, Warthogs, Tsessebe, Common reedbucks and Red lechwes, Hippos and Nile crocodiles were all abundant across the floodplains.

What did we see on a boating safari?

This influx of water has allowed us to resume boating, and one morning, we spotted three lions from the water as they rested peacefully at the base of a termite mound. As well as offering an elevated outlook from which to spy their next meal, these towering mounds often draw antelopes because the soil nourishes some of the most nutritional grass species in the bush.  

We enjoyed many leopard sightings in the Moremi Crossing area and came across handsome males, and regularly saw a female leopardess with her sub-adult cub. Spotted hyenas and Black-backed jackals were seen on almost every drive.

Small mammals such as Servals, Cane rats, Porcupines and Honey badgers were seen with the help of the spotlight during night drives.

African openbills and bell-like bats

Common resident bird species logged include the striking black and white Swamp boubou, White-browed scrub robin, and Rufous-naped larks. Several threatened bird species, such as Wattled cranes and Southern ground hornbill, were observed, and guides also detected growing flocks of African Openbill storks. These birds are governed by the water levels of these sprawling seasonal floodplains and look for retreating waters that expose their favourite snail snacks. Incredibly, these birds can shake a mollusc free of its shell with vigorous headshaking in 15 seconds. They foraged in groups and were often seen with African sacred ibises.

As guests retreated to the tents at night, the soft beeps of Peter’s Epauletted fruit bats tinkled through the trees. Unlike most other bats, these fruit bats don’t rely exclusively on echolocation to navigate. Instead, they use their enormous eyes and a keen sense of smell to find their way and locate food.

(Please note: For the safety of the animals, we do not disclose the location of either rhino or pangolin sightings. Accompanying pictures are from our Kwando Photo Library which consists of all your great photo submissions over the years, it may not be the most up to date, but we felt it was worthy of a feature alongside this month’s Sightings Report!)

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Some winter mornings, temperatures ranged between 7 and 9 degrees Celcius as the cold breeze swept across waters in front of Moremi Crossing Camp. We even experienced drizzling rains, which is unusual for this time of the year! 

An epic aardvark sighting

We could still navigate the Ntswi Reserve roads by Landcruiser as the floodwaters have yet to block our access, and Spotted hyenas and Black-backed jackals were regularly detected. With the help of a radiant spotlight, smaller mammals such as Serval, Civets, and genets were easily eyed too. One eventful evening, the rare Aardvark crossed into our beam! These ant-eaters must be one of Africa’s most bizarre yet enigmatic animals. Scientists reckon they can dig up and devour some 50,000 insects every night. Typically shy, Aardvarks occur in almost all of Africa’s parks and reserves, but only a lucky few ever catch sight of them. They are best sought out on a night drive, ideally in open terrain and during this winter season. Banded mongooses, honey badgers and porcupines were also seen after darkness fell. 

Boating activities have resumed, and the general game along the Boro River and the sprawling channels around it have been fantastic. Zebra, Giraffe, Buffalo, Tsessebe, Blue wildebeest, Impala, Vervet monkeys and troops of baboons, Common reedbuck and Red lechwe all grazed along the water’s edges as we sailed past. There were also plenty of Nile crocodiles (one day, we counted 13 basking together) and Water monitor lizards making the most of the sunshine. Big flocks of Open-billed storks and Spur-winged geese have started to cloud our skies as the waters rise and feeding grounds flourish again. Guides reported standout sightings of endangered birds, the Wattled cranes and Southern ground hornbills, plus the roll call of regular residents, the Pel’s fishing owl, African fish eagles, Coppery-tailed coucals and Lilac-breasted rollers.  

One morning a pack of nine African wild dogs came tearing through the staff village, and we quickly tracked them. Our speedy response was rewarded as we arrived on the scene in time to see the dogs chasing down a female Red lechwe, successfully landing the prey with a splash. Elephant herds have blossomed and we counted a group of 70 wading through the waters from the deck during afternoon tea. 

Lions were scarce at the start of June but returned with a bang as we watched a lioness hunt an impala during a thrilling afternoon game drive. Another day, we located a coalition of three males who rested around a termite mound and used the elevated vantage point to keep a lazy eye out for passing prey. 

Spiralling vultures ushered us towards a leopard which had killed a Common reedbuck male and hauled it into a tree. Closer to camp, a leopardess has taken refuge in a quiet corner of the bush and chosen it to raise a cub close to Gunn’s Camp. The mother and cub were repeatedly seen, and the little one delighted guests with its playful antics. 

(Please note: For the safety of the animals, we do not disclose the location of either rhino or pangolin sightings. Accompanying pictures are from our Kwando Photo Library which consists of all your great photo submissions over the years, it may not be the most up to date, but we felt it was worthy of a feature alongside this month’s Sightings Report!)

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Moremi Crossing Camp returned to a luscious water paradise as the floods rose this month.

The waters surrounding the camp played host to herds of elephants, buffalos, zebra, lechwe, wildebeest and other mammals as they sought out the larger remaining plains before the waters advanced.

There was undoubtedly a romantic side to this return of the water as two courting African fish eagles demonstrated near the camp. Fish Eagles are believed to mate for life, and the courtship is fascinating. These striking eagles swoop, dive and call to each other, but the more determined take to the skies in even more theatrics and lock talons in flight to perform a spinning dive towards the ground. Given this prime breeding season, we hope to see some new additions to the fish eagle family in the coming months.

We encountered plenty of other bird life during boat cruises, including cranes, storks, ibises, Hamerkops, hovering kingfishers and Black herons on the hunt below their canopied wings.

Mokoro rides return to Moremi Crossing

Skimming silently on a mokoro across its glassy surface, a world away from the bumbling game drive, provided the chance to marvel at the dragonflies, frogs and plant life.

Bracingly cold winter mornings on game drives were justly rewarded. May has been the month of the hunt around Moremi Crossing. A large male lion with two lionesses was spied regularly hunting warthogs while the leopards focused on the impalas, which were weakened after the rutting season. Prey species often tried to get to the water to escape their tormentors, granting guests excellent photographic opportunities of the determined animals charging into the shallow waters. We often saw leopards and one day enjoyed observing one hunting impalas on the banks of the Boro River. A pack of nine African wild dogs was also frequently seen (once hunting and killing a Red lechwe), and they graced our company during a particularly memorable walking safari.  

(Please note: For the safety of the animals, we do not disclose the location of either rhino or pangolin sightings. Accompanying pictures are from our Kwando Photo Library which consists of all your great photo submissions over the years, it may not be the most up to date, but we felt it was worthy of a feature alongside this month’s Sightings Report!)

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Winter inched in bit by bit, as the first few days of April were foggy and misty on waking up in the morning, and the Okavango floodwaters were reported just 44km from Moremi Crossing.

With the natural waterholes drying up in the woodlands, the game moved to the nutritious floodplains in ever-climbing numbers. This month, we saw leopards, cheetahs, wild dogs, and hyenas more often on our drives.

One morning, we spotted two males in a territorial battle. We followed the two for almost three kilometres as the Black-maned lion dominated the blonder male, forcing and driving it out of its territory. The vocalisations and deafening roars between the two resonated through our bodies! We regularly saw a coalition of two smart-looking males throughout the Rra Lopang area, and park rangers of the Moremi Game Reserve confirmed our suspicions that a lioness with two cubs, accompanied by a big old male, favoured the Nxwega Island area.  

Adventure camping highlights

One of our guests relished our overnight adventure camping and had some breathtaking moments. One evening, they followed a pack of 22 dogs, which later disappeared into the thickets before a leopard was reported on the radio by the camp manager at the airstrip. Guides rushed to the scene to find a relaxed cat sitting on the soft sand of the vehicle track.

We spotted a lone cheetah during an evening drive along the open floodplains five minutes away from Moremi Crossing Camp. Guests witnessed the fastest land mammal attempting a hunt, which failed as the Red lechwe escaped into the water. We also enjoyed the sight of three cheetah brothers resting in the dense shade of a Jackalberry tree.

We could not ignore the horn clashes and beastly roars of impala males. The rut season of this most abundant and prosperous antelope in Africa has begun, and it’s always amazing to see them on game drives and walking safaris because the males are so busy trying to herd as females that we barely cross their radar. Bachelor males were sparring and preparing to dethrone the dominant males. Red lechwe were also running along the channel to mate and congregated in numbers. Giraffes, wildebeest, zebras, tsessebes and breeding herds of elephants were often seen along the water channels, further proof that the woodland waters are drying up.

Harvester termites were still collecting the last dry grass to prepare for the coming dry season. We best witnessed their frenzied activities on our signature bushwalks through the Moremi Game Reserve. Small-spotted genets, Springhares, Honey badgers, Bat-eared foxes, civets and servals all crossed the flashlight on night drives. Spotted hyenas and both Side-striped and Black-backed jackals were logged almost daily.

Birding has been fantastic throughout the month. Most of the summer visitors have left, so we located our residents, such as the Saddle-billed stork, Bateleur eagle, Yellow-billed stork, African fish-eagle and some Sacred ibises to mention a few from the endless list.

(Please note: For the safety of the animals, we do not disclose the location of either rhino or pangolin sightings. Accompanying pictures are from our Kwando Photo Library which consists of all your great photo submissions over the years, it may not be the most up to date, but we felt it was worthy of a feature alongside this month’s Sightings Report!)

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