Category: Kwara

We located a pangolin during one incredibly magical evening safari.

Pangolins are highly elusive and endangered creatures, often called “living dinosaurs.” Covered in scales and possessing a gentle nature, they are known for their unique ability to curl up into a tight ball for protection. Observing this elusive creature foraging for ants and termites was a true privilege, as pangolins are rarely encountered in the wild due to their nocturnal habits and increasing threats to survival.

Another evening, as the sun started to set, we were enchanted by the sight of an African wild cat gracefully prowling through the grasslands with its lithe movements and piercing gaze. During night safaris, we also located relaxed aardwolves, African civets, African wild cats, serval cats, springhares, and large-spotted genets.

An update on the Kwara African wild dogs

A pack of three wild dogs was active around Splash Camp and we had the privilege of following them on several hunting expeditions and witnessing their feeding. The female appears to have had pups, although we suspect they may not have survived.

We followed the larger pack from Kwara Camp and witnessed their successful hunt of six red lechwes in a lagoon filled with crocodiles and hippos. The chaotic scene drove the hippos into a frenzy while the crocodiles eagerly awaited their opportunity. Later that evening, a smaller pack of five wild dogs chased an impala into the water during our sundowner drinks! Although the wild dogs lost sight of their prey, they patiently waited, and after a few minutes, the impala resurfaced, only to be swiftly taken down by the pack. Two hungry crocodiles emerged from the water, hoping for an easy meal, but the voracious wild dogs left little behind.

Although no den has been discovered on the Kwara side, we suspect some of the packs in the area have given birth, but the pups are still too young to move around freely. In the coming months, we eagerly anticipate the return of the packs with their adorable new additions.

Rising floodwaters and happy hyenas

Animals focused their activities around the channel, where the rising waters bring new life. The start of the flooding season brought a gradual rise in water levels (water that slides into the Okavango Delta all the way from Angola), transforming the landscape and adding an element of intrigue to this ever-changing environment. Despite the influx of floodwater, the Kwara Private Concession experienced dry winter conditions, resulting in the drying up of rain-fed water holes that filled during summer.

Due to less rainfall this year and drying water holes in the north, large herds of buffalo and elephants descended to the channel in search of water. We’ve enjoyed sightings of zebras, tsessebe, kudu, and other general game coming down to Splash Camp for a drink. Additionally, we had the pleasure of observing a large and relaxed herd of sable antelopes nearer to the new 4 Rivers Camp.

While the hyena den at Kwara was not active, a healthy population remained in the area. On one memorable night after a game drive, we witnessed a commotion of hyenas in front of the camp. Two clans came together, resulting in conflict among the members. One hyena was forced to take refuge in the water for an extended period. Another evening, we observed a hyena feeding on a baboon, showcasing their adaptable scavenging behaviour.

Indeed, spotted hyenas were frequently present, particularly near the carcass of an elephant north of Splash Camp. The elephant died earlier this month due to a broken leg, attracting multiple hyenas. We also observed a clash between the hyenas from the northern clan and the Mmaleitho pride over a wildebeest kill. Another hyena clan to the east of Splash camp was seen on a kudu kill, possibly taken by a leopard.

Bold baboons chase a leopard away

Speaking of. A male leopard with a kill was found up in a Sausage tree. To our surprise, a female leopard joined him, and they spent two days feeding together. We had an exciting sighting of a male leopard hunting a reedbuck. Despite the alarm calls from baboons, the determined leopard continued stalking its prey. However, the baboons grew bolder and chased the leopard into the marshes!

The male cheetah, affectionately known as Mr Special, continued to frequent the Bat-eared fox area, and a female cheetah favoured the marshes and occasionally ventured close to Kwara Camp, providing exciting opportunities for guests to observe her graceful movements. Recently, we followed her as she crossed the Kwara floodplains, showcasing her agility and elegance.

We had several sightings of Mr Special around Splash Camp. too and the nearby Hippo Pools area, where he had been absent for some time. We followed him on a successful hunt where he took down an impala. The following morning, with a full belly, he marked his territory around his favourite spot.

(Please note: For the safety of the animals, we do not disclose the precise location of either rhino or pangolin sightings. Accompanying pictures are from our Kwando Photo Library which consists of all your great photo submissions over the years, it may not be the most up to date, but we felt it was worthy of a feature alongside this month’s Sightings Report!)

Comments closed

Guests from Splash enjoyed the antics of two honey badgers fearlessly harvesting honey from a termite mound, utterly unfazed by the bees swarming around them.

We also relished the rare sighting of an aardvark just minutes before reaching the camp during an afternoon drive.

Lots of luck with leopard sightings!

During a journey to the boat station, the alarm calls of vervet monkeys helped us track a male leopard from the Kwara airstrip to the majestic baobab tree on Kwara’s eastern side. An adult male leopard triumphantly perched in a tree nearby, having successfully preyed on a large male baboon. Maintaining a respectful distance (allowing him to acclimate to our presence), our captivating encounter with this remarkable creature and his elevated perch lasted three incredible days as he ensured the safety of his prized meal.

During another game drive from Splash, we located an adult male leopard gracefully perched on a tree along Hobbs Road after an hour-long tracking effort. Another female leopard caught our attention east of Mabala a Dikgokong, but swiftly disappeared into the bushes.

Spotted hyena antics

A clan of over 12 spotted hyenas was found feasting on a baby elephant carcass between Tom’s and Hobbs Road, north of Marapo a Kubu. We also located a hyena feeding on an impala carcass in the Mabala a Mmoloki area, carrying the skull while moving south.

Known as the diligent scavengers of the African savannahs, we had an active hyena den within the Kwara area. We enjoyed observing two young cubs alongside two smaller, pitch-black ones during our visits. We intended to check on the hyena cubs on one particularly eventful day. However, an unexpected encounter disrupted our plans, and we encountered three male lions. Intrigued, we followed them to the hyena den and observed them shifting their positions around the shelter. Returning a week later to check on the hyena cubs, we were met with stillness. Despite our repeated visits, there was no action, but the den showed signs of being regularly cleaned, indicating hyena activity. We surmised that the scent of the lions had instilled fear in the hyenas, keeping them cautious and hidden.

The lions of the Kwara Private Concession

Throughout the month, our team had several more captivating encounters with the lions of the area. Lionesses and subadults were spotted in various locations, including the Bat-eared area, Mokoro Station Road, and Pelican Pan. We observed their daily routines, from unsuccessful buffalo hunts to resting periods in the scorching afternoon heat.

One day, guides followed a giraffe’s gaze, leading them to a female lion with two tiny cubs in a hidden den. Tracking and vultures further aided in pinpointing the lions in the marshlands, which became their favoured hunting ground.

Early in April, we came across three lion cubs, aged three and six months, accompanied by an adult lioness heading west towards Diolo Road from the Bat-eared area. The next day, an impressive pride of 11 lionesses from the Kwara Pride was discovered northwest of the den, seeking shade. Additionally, two adult male lions, two adult lionesses, and two subadult females, along with their three and six-month-old cubs, were found moving within the same vicinity.

On another occasion, two lionesses and two adult male lions from a pride of twelve were seen walking north near Wild Dog Pan, eventually settling down in the surrounding bushes. A lone male lion from a coalition of five was sighted near the Bat-eared area, exhibiting his presence with regal confidence.

Calls of black-backed jackals and the assistance of vervet monkeys guided us toward a group of three adult male lions located at Last Mabala area, and the month concluded with the heartwarming sight of six lion cubs, accompanied by a subadult male, seeking refuge in the thickets south of the Bat-eared area while their parents ventured out in search of prey.

Three African wild dog packs roam Kwara

In the Kwara area, we had the pleasure of observing three distinct African wild dog packs. One pack consists of five members, another with six, and the most impressive pack boasts an impressive 29 canines. Recently, we had a thrilling encounter with the pack of 29 as they engaged in a fascinating standoff with a group of blue wildebeests. They teased and tormented the gnus for hours until the dogs sought respite under the sheltering Kalahari apple leaf trees while the wildebeests monitored their foes from a distance.

Later during the month, we came across a pack of six in the late afternoon on a relentless hunting mission, skillfully attempting to flush out common reedbucks hidden within the tall yellow thatching grass. After a gripping pursuit lasting about 20 minutes, their persistence paid off. They successfully captured a young common reedbuck and efficiently devoured their well-earned prize. As we observed this spectacle, hyenas appeared on the scene, eager to partake in the spoils.

We found Mr Special perched atop a termite mound one morning, basking in the early morning light. However, the serenity was abruptly interrupted by the arrival of a male lion. With a calm demeanour, Mr Special observed the lion’s approach from a mere 15 meters away before deciding to descend and make his escape. The intrigued lion sniffed around the termite mound and cautiously followed the cheetah’s trail for approximately 15 minutes before eventually losing interest. Meanwhile, the agile cheetah stealthily navigated through the dense thickets, continuing his journey.

Abundant herds

There was an increase in buffalo and elephant herds due to the drying up of natural water holes in the woodlands, signalling the onset of winter. During one dawn drive, we observed a buffalo enduring the relentless pursuit of hyenas as they chased him for several minutes. The area continued to thrive with abundant general game, including impressive herds of elephants, breeding herds and bachelor groups.

Other sightings included greater kudus, zebras, tsessebe, wildebeest, impalas, giraffes, hippos, and water-loving antelopes such as red lechwe, common waterbuck, and sitatunga.

Jackals, both striped and black-backed, frequented the Kwara area. Additionally, we spotted other small mammals, such as African wild cats and genets. These elusive creatures were often seen perched on treetops or pursuing small rodents.

African rock pythons, spotted bush snakes, water monitor lizards, and rock monitor lizards crossed our paths, and we discovered sizable crocodiles about three meters long during boat cruises, basking in the sun atop the Miscanthus grass along the Maunachira channel. Armed crickets, grasshoppers, dragonflies, damselflies, pond striders, and various butterfly species like monarchs, brown veined whites, foxy charaxes, broad-bordered grass yellows and guineafowl butterflies added vibrancy to the Kwara Private Concession.

(Please note: For the safety of the animals, we do not disclose the precise location of either rhino or pangolin sightings. Accompanying pictures are from our Kwando Photo Library which consists of all your great photo submissions over the years, it may not be the most up to date, but we felt it was worthy of a feature alongside this month’s Sightings Report!)

Comments closed

We saw a beautiful female cheetah around Kwara Camp for much of this month. After an early morning start, we spotted her lying silently in the long grass. Curious about why she was hiding, we switched off the engine and waited as the sun slowly rose and the doves replaced the nighttime choir of frogs and toads.

Suddenly, a spotted hyena emerged from the bush and started a lazy walk toward the cheetah. The hyena paused. He had seen the cheetah, and with little hesitation, he charged. The cheetah lost any element of secrecy and exploded from the grass and into the open plain beyond. The hyena gave chase but his “paltry” 60km/h top speed was no match for her impressive acceleration.

Pack of 29 African wild dogs

While this encounter favoured the hyena, it didn’t always go that way. The pack of 29 African wild dogs was seen regularly between Kwara and Splash. One day, we were enjoying a lazy late afternoon watching the sleeping wild dogs when four hyenas wandered nearby. After a hurried discussion, over twenty pack members attacked the hyenas. Spinning and biting, the hyenas were almost overwhelmed by the pack before they retreated as fast as their legs could carry them. The following morning, we found three hyenas close to the battleground, where they sat licking some extensive wounds and bite marks.

On the other hand, the wild dogs seemed no worse for wear as we found them that same morning with the remains of an impala. Another early morning we tracked the pack to find them chasing a group of bachelor roan antelopes from Lechwe Plains to False Splash Hippos. Three of the antelopes escaped to the south and one was trapped in the waterhole. The dogs watched and waited but eventually gave up, so the roan lived to see another day. There is another pack of African wild dogs, and during a nature walk from Splash Camp, guests encountered the trio on foot where the curious animals ventured relatively close.

Roan and sable sighted

With very low water levels, it was the perfect time to watch the elephants and buffalo crisscrossing their way across the Okavango Delta floodplains towing multiple generations of offspring. Zebras, wildebeest and impalas also covered the islands, and we relished sightings of the roan and sable herds. Not much smaller than the kudu or eland, these fine antelopes are always a wonder to admire. The longer grasses at this time of year proved ideal for hiding the young antelopes. Indeed both sable and roan hide their young for days and weeks after they are born before introducing them to the family herd. However, it wasn’t only little antelopes hidden in the long grasses.

As winter ended, we saw a lot of lion mating activity. With a gestation period of approximately three and a half months, we suspected some more success. Two females in the Kwara pride were lactating; one had cubs with her, while the other regularly came and went from the pride. This likely means she has hidden the cubs away for their first six weeks until they are strong enough to join the family and keep up as they move around the Kwara Private Reserve.

Pygmy geese floated in the last waterways. Pans were lined with African jacanas, spur-winged geese, white-faced whistling ducks, and the odd knob-billed duck and slaty egrets. During boat cruises, we also logged lesser jacanas, many species of bee-eaters,  kingfishers, herons with African openbills, cattle egrets and sacred ibises roosting at the Godikwe heronry.  Genets, springhares, African wild cats, servals and honey badgers were regular features on night drives. One day before daybreak, we picked up fresh leopard tracks as we left Splash Camp in the morning. As we were following the paw prints, we heard an alarm call from jackals, and quickly rushed there only to find two young side-striped jackals had been killed by a leopard, but the cat was nowhere to be found. 

(Please note: For the safety of the animals, we do not disclose the location of either rhino or pangolin sightings. Accompanying pictures are from our Kwando Photo Library which consists of all your great photo submissions over the years, it may not be the most up to date, but we felt it was worthy of a feature alongside this month’s Sightings Report!)

Comments closed

The African wild dogs had a successful month, and we followed them on various hunts, including successfully taking down impalas and tsessebe.

We had three packs roaming between Kwara and Splash, numbering 31, 12, and 8 individuals, including their puppies. A wild dog can eat up to 4kg of meat a day (some of which might go to puppies) – more or less the equivalent of the pack of 12 eating an impala – although this doesn’t mean they will pass up the opportunity to take an easy snack.

Kudus and drawn claws at Kwara

We found the largest pack resting with big round stomachs at Python Pan when a small herd of kudus unknowingly walked out of a bush nearby. The pack twittered and chased one female kudu into a nearby watercourse, where they subdued it before dragging it to dry land and consuming it. The action, however, didn’t stop there. As they feasted, two hyenas emerged, looking for the delicious smell that had drawn them there. In their considerable pack number, the wild dogs didn’t hesitate, and the hyenas were swiftly seen off.

Early one afternoon, as a glorious afternoon siesta set in, we were pulled from our downtime by a cacophony of growls, yelps, and whining in the Kwara staff village. Jumping in a vehicle, we arrived in time to find the wild dog packs of 12 and 8 in the middle of a fight. The packs squared off and fought before splitting apart, one group heading east and the other heading west. We can only guess what was resolved. It just goes to show that while October can produce some of the most stunning sightings of the year, the heat can fray tempers!

What’s happening at the heronries?

The Godikwe and Xhobega heronries were pumping with life as the nest building gave way to the cacophony of hungry chicks. Many of the birds were relaxed in the presence of boats and camera clicking, making it possible to quietly float nearby and get some fantastic snaps of the chicks and feeding time, plus the aerial predators who awaited their chance to pounce on an unguarded newborn.

As the floodwaters receded, the sheer number of birds was almost matched by the huge herds of elephants and buffalos moving through the Kwara Private Reserve.

Leopard vs wild dogs

There was more than a fair share of leopard sightings this month, and we located them hunting, sleeping, mating and encountered the occasional leopard just out for a stroll. One day, we were watching a sleeping leopard when a pack of 12 African wild dogs wandered by. The leopard noticed them first and jumped up to confront them. The wild dogs went on the offensive and, using their well-honed communication skills, chased the leopard backwards and forwards across the pan. Risking severe injury, the male leopard finally charged straight through three of the pack and sought sanctuary in the nearest tree, hissing and spitting insults from the safety of a branch a few metres off the ground.

We saw hordes of plains game and significant zebra numbers. Another constant almost every day was seeing lions.

We found them on some of these zebra, lechwe and reedbuck carcasses, and they seemed in good health. Although, we did notice one male suffered a serious cut beneath his eye, while another limped heavily with a large cut to his leg. Weakness is not a luxury a lion can afford to show if he wishes to climb the hierarchy to independence to take charge of his own pride.

The elephant carcass not far from Kwara that gave us so many great sightings as reported back in September, October saw yet another clash between the lions and spotted hyenas. The lions, quietly enjoying an evening meal, were rudely interrupted by a clan and attacked the hyenas without realising just how many they were taking on. By the time the lions noticed their inferior numbers, they were in deep trouble from the whooping and cackling clan of competitors. Finally, there was only one thing to do: retreat. However, this was easier said than done, and they eventually had to settle with perching in the branches of a nearby Marula tree.

(Please note: For the safety of the animals, we do not disclose the location of either rhino or pangolin sightings. Accompanying pictures are from our Kwando Photo Library which consists of all your great photo submissions over the years, it may not be the most up to date, but we felt it was worthy of a feature alongside this month’s Sightings Report!)

Comments closed

A high prevalence of lions across the Kwara Reserve kept Mr Special (the resident cheetah) away from the immediate area around Splash Camp, but we never had to go far in search of him. 

He hunted out on the open plains of the reserve, which contained plentiful lechwe, impalas and warthogs. The drying grasses didn’t give him the cover he previously enjoyed when stalking back in May and June, but he got a good view of all the prey species and remained well-fed through September. He also seemed content to share his vast area with a female and her sub-adult youngster who recently moved in. 

The African wild dogs of Kwara

We have frequently located the Kwara pack of African wild dogs since they left the den, but unfortunately, the group seems to be missing two puppies, and we suspect that they met their fate at the hands of the Kwara lion pride. 

The resident leopards have been successful hunters. Two mothers, both with two cubs, moved between Kwara and Splash Camp. They were sighted several times with Impala and Red lechwe dangling from branches and forks in trees and eating their fill. The leopards also plucked up the courage to visit the carcass of a dead giraffe and feed. While they are not generally scavengers, they definitely won’t turn down the offer of a free meal. The cubs, having eaten their fill, enjoyed using the remains as a climbing frame and entertained guests with their rough and tumble. Having died of natural causes, the giraffe has been a food source for multiple species, including black-backed and side-striped jackals.

The Godikwe heronry is alive with sounds and smells

From death, we move on to life. The Godikwe heronry is now beginning to flourish with our feathered friends. Yellow-billed storks, Marabou storks, Sacred ibises, Black-crowned night herons, African darters, Reed cormorants and egrets of all sizes began the frantic phase of nest-building. The sights, sounds and colours were remarkable. Water birds are a vital indicator of the health of a riverine ecosystem, and this heronry is a critical base for the laying, hatching and raising of thousands of birds over the next few months. The sounds, squawks and even the interesting smells were not to be missed. 

Huge groups of elephants and buffalo were witnessed, especially in the afternoon, and zebra herds relished the new grasses that had shot up since the winter bushfire.

The Kwara and One-Eyed lion prides were seen almost daily feeding, mating, playing, hunting or sleeping. With such regular lion sightings, it’s hard to choose which tale to tell, so we restrict ourselves to two short stories. With the waters dropping and the herds of buffalo, wildebeest and zebra strewn across the floodplains, the lions were spoilt for choice. Late one afternoon, we watched the lions stalking zebras to the west of Splash Camp. One lioness took the lead and exploded into a sprint with a zebra firmly in her sights. It seemed a sure catch until two teen lions decided to help their aunt. The juveniles broke into a run but completely misjudged the distance, almost running into the pursuing lioness instead. The lioness was forced to break off her pursuit and, panting from such wasted exertion in the 35-degree heat, marched to the tree line and flopped down. 

Finally, we were treated to a rare sight. We followed a mating pair of lions and found them at Impala Pan. Lion mating rituals can be very long affairs,  but this one was disrupted by 30 elephants joining them at the waterhole to drink and bathe. As the lions continued their amorous business, the elephants drank their fill not even 40 metres away.

(Please note: For the safety of the animals, we do not disclose the location of either rhino or pangolin sightings. Accompanying pictures are from our Kwando Photo Library, which consists of all your great photo submissions over the years, it may not be the most up-to-date. Still, we felt it was worthy of a feature alongside this month’s Sightings Report!)

Comments closed

Mr Special, the resident cheetah, kicks off the report for this month. He roamed far and wide throughout the Kwara Private Reserve. We frequently found him looking fat and content on a termite mound, while on other occasions, he had clearly gone a few days without successfully hunting. Nevertheless, some prey came easier than others…

An easy meal for Mr Special

Sharing the late afternoon sun with Mr Special one day, a herd of impalas grazed just 40 metres from him, and each seemed oblivious to the presence of the other. A young female wandered from the herd and walked toward Mr Special until she almost stepped on him. At the last moment, she realised her error and attempted escape, but Mr Special was on his feet like greased lightning. Before she had gone 10 metres, he had taken her down. Perhaps having a nap was the best hunting solution instead of all that wandering!

He’ll have to be careful where he sleeps as the elephants and buffalos move through the concession in large numbers.

The flood has started to recede, and emerging flood plains nourished by the waters hosted expanding numbers of large herbivores, such as Buffaloes, Impala, Giraffe, Tsessebe and Hippos. When not observing the vast herds, bull elephants waded through the deep channels and met us at eye level amongst the papyrus as we floated by on boat.

Luckless leopards

Leopards were regular features, if perhaps unlucky. We watched a leopard hunt an Impala, only to have a male lion immediately claim it. A few days later, another leopard dragged its kill up a small tree and balanced precariously as a hyena circled below, occasionally standing up against the tree to get a closer look. The leopard wasn’t able to settle and enjoy his meal, and after some consideration, he took a mighty leap and raced off, leaving the hyena with the tempting fleshy fruit just out of reach.

On an early morning game drive, just before the sun made its lazy winter morning entrance, we located a leopard slowly climbing a tree that housed a flock of roosting Spotted guineafowls. They were packed together against the early morning cold as the leopard made its way up the trunk. We can only imagine how finding a leopard creeping towards you might feel. One of the birds woke up to this unpleasant surprise and sounded the alarm. As the leopard sprang forward, the guineafowls burst into action, scattering in all directions leaving the cat framed against the early morning sunrise. The perfect start to the day!

Hyenas vs African wild dogs at an elephant scene

There was plenty of predator action near the Kwara boat station this month, thanks to an elephant carcass. A deceased elephant that has been in the sun for a couple of days gives off an odour that brings tears to the eyes (and not from joy.) It also brings out almost every carnivore the bush can produce. One day, five Spotted hyenas battled 12 African wild dogs. While the hyenas had the advantage of size, the wild dogs had them well outnumbered. Eventually, the hyenas retreated to the edge of the clearing and watched as the wild dogs ate their fill. On other occasions, we returned to the elephant to find a more significant number of hyenas. It appeared they had an uneasy truce with the wild dogs, each eating their fill before moving away. The scratches and bites on some of the hyenas told the story of their initial, less sociable dealings.

Closer to Kwara Camp, African wild dogs set off after an Impala, but before they could devour it, half a dozen Spotted hyenas came hurtling out of the bush and scattered the pack. As the hyenas turned to accept the impala, the wild dogs regrouped, worked out their numerical superiority, and charged back in. That sent the hyenas scampering into the trees, and the wild dogs speedily completed their meal. They returned to the den to feed the 10 pups and we are happy to report they are thriving.

Well-fed lions

The lions remained very well-fed this August. Every four to five days, we came across the Mma Leitho or Kwara prides on a new kill. They started the month on a diet of Warthog (although this was only enough for a couple of them) before moving on to wildebeest, zebra and buffalo. Although they had great success, their failures also made for incredible sightings. On one occasion, we watched the lions chase a Red lechwe into the waterways, where they were no match for the water-adapted antelope. Then there was the awesome sight of the Mma Leitho pride charging into a buffalo herd and narrowly missing their target.

One day, while admiring the lions drinking from the river, we noticed a ripple in the water approaching. Metre by metre, it headed in their direction. The lions’ attention was finally drawn to the anomaly, and they realised just in time, scattering a second before the crocodile burst from the water. While lions may dominate land, once in the water, a medium-sized crocodile gives these cats some stiff competition. 

We followed the Kwara pride on the prowl several times, including the successful hunt of a zebra and her foal near Splash Camp, which we watched from start to finish. However, one of the most exciting chases didn’t involve a single herbivore. The whole pride was giving their attention to a large herd of buffalo when suddenly a lone male lion, a nomad, appeared out of the tree line. Perhaps he had the same buffalo-based dinner in mind? However, he wasn’t aware that the full Kwara pride lay on the other side of the bovine mass. The three resident pride males broke off, heading straight for the interloper, and pursuit was on! The latter turned tail, and we followed the chase for five minutes before he gave Kwara’s resident males the slip and vanished into the wilderness.

With the males out on patrol, we enjoyed many lioness sightings with their cubs. The pride grew with three new cubs introduced to the family, but it was not the easiest of introductions. To reach the pride, the lioness had to cross a 10-metre wide channel with three tiny cubs in tow. She waded into the water and called on them to follow. Two gingerly entered the water, but the third wanted nothing to do with an afternoon swim. After much coaxing and refusal, the lioness eventually lost patience and picked the little one up by the scruff of its neck and swam across with two little furry torpedoes doing their best to keep up.

We then found a mating pair of lions late in the month, so pride numbers may boost further!

The life-giving Sausage trees and Sycamore figs

As the dry season began to bite, nature came to the rescue with arboreal sustenance. Sausage trees have produced flowers, attracting both sunbirds and mammals, including Impala, Kudu, Warthogs, baboons and Vervet monkeys.

Finally, the Godikwe Heronry is growing into its annual hubbub. Small islands in a big lagoon (roughly six kilometres from Kwara Camp by boat) are dominated by Sycamore fig trees, and thousands of birds, including herons, ibises, egrets and storks gather for their breeding season.

(Please note: For the safety of the animals, we do not disclose the location of either rhino or pangolin sightings. Accompanying pictures are from our Kwando Photo Library which consists of all your great photo submissions over the years, it may not be the most up to date, but we felt it was worthy of a feature alongside this month’s Sightings Report!)

Comments closed

Guests witnessed two African wild dog hunts where the pack successfully took down a kudu and an impala. As wild dogs are such social feeders, this greatly benefits the new puppies, who are allowed to eat at the dinner table first. 

African wild dog den movements

The pack moved away from their original den near Kwara and headed west this month. The puppies managed to cross shallower water channels but decided they were not yet keen on swimming lessons. One day, the alpha female called for them to cross a deeper Okavango Delta channel, but the pups refused, walking up and down uncertainly on the far bank. Uncertainty quickly turned to danger when 12 Spotted hyenas suddenly appeared, alerted by the chattering of the puppies. As the clan slowly advanced, the wild dog pack launched across the channel and the hyenas thankfully turned tail.

The pack, perhaps knowing its precarious position in the predator hierarchy, abandoned their efforts to get the youngsters across the channel and headed back towards Kwara Camp. They discovered a well-excavated aardvark hole just south of camp, and after a detailed inspection, this has since become their new home. They moved away from their new home late in July, heading west. However, they soon doubled back for a reason we have yet to ascertain. Perhaps they simply realised that there is no better place than Kwara? 

Lioness introduces her cubs

Lions spent much of the month around the Jackal Den area and had good luck with the hunt as the whole pride has been lolling around, full-bellied and content. We found them after they had taken down two zebras not far from Kwara Camp. The pride moved on to the second zebra, having eaten their fill of the first, which allowed nine Spotted hyenas to work on the remains of the first – an uneasy truce as two Black-backed jackals watched enviously. These same hyenas also trailed the wild dogs often – living up to their somewhat unjustified reputation as scavengers.

Back to the lions, guides tracked the same pride feeding on a hippo carcass later in the month. The five-day banquet meant the lions’ daily route changed little from snack-sleep-shift–snack. These successes were essential as four new cubs were finally brought to the pride for an official introduction.

The lionesses detached from the pride for almost three months as the cubs remained secreted away. We were present when the newest mother warily presented her young to the pride. As the cubs wandered around meeting their siblings, the lioness protectively stood over them, batting away the rougher behaviour of some sub-adults. Lion cubs face daunting odds of making it to adulthood. However, these newcomers have a strong pride around them, granting them an excellent chance.

Meanwhile, the pride males did an excellent job of defending their territory. We found them chasing two new males who strayed into their territory, sending the interlopers running back. They did not want to learn the same lesson they had just doled. Later in the month, they wandered East towards Khwai and came back licking some impressive wounds. Clearly, their incursion was not welcomed!

Honey badger vs lion

Both the MmaLeitho and Kwara lion prides hunted well this month, including stealing an impala kill from the resident African wild dogs right in front of tent 8 at Splash Camp. However, they don’t always get their way, as some of the younger members of the Kwara pride found when they approached a Honey badger.

The Honey badger, legendary for its fearlessness, was not in the mood to submit and leapt forward as the lions paced around it trying to find an angle. The leading lion jumped hurriedly out of the way as the badger went on the offensive. No matter what the lions did, their attempted bites had no effect!

Eventually, the badger found itself on the edge of the flood plain and walked off into the bushes. (Perhaps “strolled” would be a better word. Honey badgers don’t run from anyone.) After all the hunting and moving around, the MmaLeitho pride needed somewhere to rest. What better place than under tents 1 and 3 at Splash Camp, where they spent a few relaxed evenings.

Large herds of elephants and buffalos moved through the Kwara Private Reserve in their hundreds, throwing dust and trampling the little grass that remained. The Tsessebe, Plains zebra, Red lechwe and Blue wildebeest are out on the plains in large numbers, further opening up the bush.

Mr Special on the hunt

Mr Special, our resident cheetah, took full advantage of the dwindling grasses. For months, the long grasses provided a haven for the smaller antelopes, which hide and appear almost invisible to the naked eye. We found him slowly pacing along Ostrich Road, highly alert. As he entered the low grass, a baby Common reedbuck broke cover. Mr Special didn’t hesitate and accelerated down the road in pursuit with a fantastic speed turn of speed.

The reedbuck had a good headstart, but in less than 40 metres, Mr Special had caught up and swiftly took down the unfortunate antelope. He immediately pulled the reedbuck under a bush and began to eat and we left him after half an hour, still content with his prize.

(Please note: For the safety of the animals, we do not disclose the location of either rhino or pangolin sightings. Accompanying pictures are from our Kwando Photo Library which consists of all your great photo submissions over the years, it may not be the most up to date, but we felt it was worthy of a feature alongside this month’s Sightings Report!)

Comments closed

Our highlight this month has to be the surfacing of African wild dog puppies at the Kwara den site! Just over a month old, these cute canids comprise a litter of nine, and they frequently left the burrow to feed on their regurgitated meals.

African wild dogs denning at Kwara

The alpha female rejoined the pack for hunting (instead of babysitting) because it’s been cold and challenging for the group to start hunting early. They often left the den as late as ten in the morning. One day, we followed the pack as they hunted west of Kwara and killed an impala. They chased, cornered, and killed a kudu just west of Mothusi Crossing a few days later. Another afternoon during siesta, guests heard splashing in the Kwara Lagoon and glimpsed the group chasing impala through the water from the deck of tent eight at Kwara Camp.

During a boat cruise, the pack was caught at the edge of the Maunachira Channel in hot pursuit of Red Lechwe, but they quickly disappeared into the papyrus walls. Following each successful hunt, the dogs hurriedly returned to the den to feed the pups. Interestingly, this year the dogs have denned very close to the channel and have often been seen hunting in the afternoons through the flood plains. This strategy has helped keep them away from their usual predators, but it certainly increases the risk of attack by crocodiles, both while they are hunting and the den itself is well within reach of their powerful jaws. During a boat cruise, guides were highly impressed by one spectacular specimen measuring four metres in length. An enormous Southern African python was also spied in these waters.  

The Okavango Delta floodwaters still rose slightly, and we noticed water freshly refilled some of the regularly-used vehicle tracks. Buffalo herds have started to emerge in more significant numbers from woodlands. The tall, dry grass has turned a golden brown and broken down with these growing mammal hordes. The proliferation of elephants has significantly opened the thickets and bushes, making sightings of smaller mammals, especially cats, more frequent. Serval, African wild cat, spotted genets, Honey badgers, Civets, Aardwolfs, Springhares, and Porcupines were commonly encountered on evening game drives. One particularly thrilling nightfall, our spotlight illuminated a serval cat on the stalk, and it killed a springhare.

The general game concentrated chiefly on the western side of the reserve, where we saw zebras, wildebeest, Tsessebe, Red lechwe, kudus, Waterbucks, Impalas, and occasionally Sable antelope.

The winter landscape

Large Fever berry and the Leadwood trees changed colour, and the harsh winter brought heavy winds that dropped most leaves. Fortunately, the striking Cat’s claw flaunted its cranberry-red flowers, brightening the Kalahari landscape. This botanical blooms in winter and has an extended taproot to reach the water that sits far below the sandy surface, and it is a critical source of nectar during these colder months.

The Bat-eared fox area remains one of the most beautiful and was preferred by herbivores, although we have started to see a shift as animals move nearer to the Splash region. The resident male cheetah, Mr. Special, liked this prey-abundant area, and we often found him resting on termite mounds or marking his territory. One day, guides trailed his hunt, and he grabbed a baby warthog. Another day, he caught a young impala that had left the herd and walked straight into the cheetah, which acted fast and seized his meal.

Our lion sightings have been dominated by the Kwara Pride, and we repeatedly found two male lions that form part of the coalition of five brothers. They were usually vocal and communicated with the rest of the pride, but we did not see them together as five brothers this month.

Guides picked up lion tracks along Elephant West Road and tracked the pride feasting on a giraffe kill, where they spent two days eating. Guides also found them on buffalo, Red lechwe, and baboon kills, and once attempting to stalk waterbuck. One morning, three male lions were spotted at Mabala-a-Mmoloki heading west. Guides followed them to females of the Kwara pride, but the lionesses did not welcome these males and charged them. Two resident males were spotted in front of Splash Camp, actively roaring and marking territory.

Two lionesses were nursing. We located them resting at Jackal Den junction with four tiny cubs. They relocated from the previous den as the young lions were now strong to walk. Another lioness was discovered with three new cubs, and she crossed into the centre of Sable Island, where they are presumably denning.

A fair number of Spotted hyenas were encountered along Elephant west road as they tried to scavenge from the Kwara Pride’s giraffe kill. Two mothers and cubs played and were active at the Kwara hyena den. Intriguingly, we found one gripping an old elephant foot.

Winter birding is all about the hunt

Many raptors were seen in the area. Eagles such as Martial, Bateleur, Tawny, Brown snake-eagle, Black-chested snake eagle, and terrestrial hunters, such as Southern ground hornbills, Secretary birds, plus a variety of storks have been common throughout the month. Namaqua doves frequented the grasslands along with bounding ostriches and Kori bustards. Pelicans were seen across the flood plains as the water table rose daily, and we witnessed lots of change in the floodplains as the water pushed in. Still, the water birds preferred the drying pans where they dined on the stranded aquatic animals.

A female leopard, apparently a nursing mum, was located at Green Pan on the hunt. Another early-morning game drive kickstarted with a relaxed female leopard walking along the Middle East Pan on Splash camp’s eastern flank. They followed her as she marked her territory until she disappeared into thickets, but she was seen again stalking impalas during an evening drive. Another leopardess was located the following day at Splash Hippos, and there were three different sightings of different leopards on one day at the end of the month. High baboon numbers and increased lion activities across the area have pushed leopards to act more cautiously. However, a male leopard was briefly located by the third bridge at Kwara before disappearing into the long grass, and a female leopard was found a few days later, feeding on an impala at Willie’s Valley. Almost in defiance, the Kwara Island male was spotted at the airstrip, where it rested all day and night.  

(Please note: For the safety of the animals, we do not disclose the location of either rhino or pangolin sightings. Accompanying pictures are from our Kwando Photo Library which consists of all your great photo submissions over the years, it may not be the most up to date, but we felt it was worthy of a feature alongside this month’s Sightings Report!)

Comments closed

The Kwara coalition, our famous group of five male lions, was unhappy.

We found these fearsome males roaming the Kwara Private Reserve, continually roaring and sending a loud and unmistakable message. A newcomer had ventured into their territory, and all this mighty calling was a clear advertisement: stern words would be had if they came across this interloper. The remainder of the Kwara pride (four lionesses and two cubs) had little luck hunting in their absence. When we encountered them, they appeared listless and hungry. However, persistence is the key to success, and one morning we followed them as they took down a baby giraffe as it blundered across their path. Two of the five males smelt the air and quickly found their way to the carcass. Still hungry the following day, the lionesses took down a waterbuck. One of the lionesses who recently gave birth was still stashing her cubs in the dense bush, while another looked like she was almost ready to give birth.

Beautiful little leopard cubs

We encountered a large male leopard on a game drive towards Peter’s Crossing. As we stopped to soak up the sighting, he turned and made a mad dash for the nearest tree. It’s always special to watch a leopard climbing. One minute at the bottom and a second later at the top without apparently passing through the space between. However, his exertion was well merited as the five lion brothers appeared from the bush, gave him a look, and then sauntered on their way.

The other leopards had more luck than this hapless male. We tracked and found a female leopard on an impala. Unexpectedly, she started calling and disappeared into the Kalahari apple leaf tree, leaving her prize unattended. Our curiosity was rewarded when, shortly after, the leopard appeared with two cubs in tow who could not have been more than six months old. They nervously approached the impala before retreating back into the safety of the scrub. As the mother cajoled them into joining her, suddenly, a Spotted hyena emerged from the trees and made a beeline for the carcass. The hyena managed to take a bite before the furious leopard re-emerged, and he beat a hasty retreat. Knowing the word was out, she dragged her kill off into the bushes, where the family ate in peace.

We located this leopardess again two weeks later, and she had learnt her lesson. This time, she dragged her kill up into a Leadwood tree where the cubs could eat without the unwanted attentions of other dinner guests.
However, it didn’t deter the hyenas from waiting patiently at the bottom.

African wild dog puppies on the horizon?

This month we also learned that there is a fine line between bravery and foolhardiness. A pack of 15 African wild dogs had taken down a Tsessebe and two hyenas charged in to assume the remains as the dogs rested from their kill. This bravery (?) was met with a full-on charge from the wild dogs, and the hyenas were forced to turn tails and flee. The tsessebe served an essential purpose, and we saw the pack’s alpha female was obviously heavily pregnant. We hope to soon report the pitter-patter of tiny paws!

Floodwaters came flowing in

As the flood waters arrived, we detected an influx of birds keen to take advantage of the new shallow channels filling with water and fish. The Malachite kingfishers put on a show as they darted in and out of the water, capturing food and tossing it in the air as they shuffled it about to swallow the fish headfirst. They were, however, by no means the only fisherman keen to take advantage. Wattled cranes, Saddle-billed storks and Goliath herons were also drawn to this paradise.

As the woodland areas become drier large herds of buffalo and elephants, have started moving across the floodplains in their hundreds. A small group of elephants pushed over a Mangosteen tree next to tent two in Kwara Camp and happily fed themselves on everything the tree had to offer for four days. Chomp! 

(Please note: For the safety of the animals, we do not disclose the location of either rhino or pangolin sightings. Accompanying pictures are from our Kwando Photo Library which consists of all your great photo submissions over the years, it may not be the most up to date, but we felt it was worthy of a feature alongside this month’s Sightings Report!)

Comments closed