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Category: Kwara

Kwara and Splash Camp, October 2024

An aardwolf foraging for termites near Ngorongoro eventually led us to its den, where we observed two adorable cubs.

As for bigger members of the hyena family, a clan of 25 spotted hyenas was observed feeding on an elephant carcass, while another group of 15 was spotted around a buffalo kill. The hyena den near Mothusi’s Crossing was active, though cubs have not yet been spotted outside.

The African wild dogs were exceptionally active, with hyenas often trailing them in hopes of scavenging. The resident pack of 17 adults and 11 puppies covered vast stretches of the concession. They were frequently seen hunting impalas, particularly targeting heavily pregnant individuals. One memorable sighting occurred at Kwara Camp, where the pack took down an impala just outside the kitchen area! Two territorial male lions later arrived to steal the kill, forcing the dogs to retreat.African wild dogs Splash CampIn another dramatic encounter, the pack hunted a red lechwe and successfully brought it down. The following morning, they were seen resting in the shade, their energy spent after a successful night of hunting.

Cheetah cubs and a leopard ambush

The first rains of the season arrived mid-month, transforming the landscape into a stunning patchwork of green. Mopane and sausage trees began sprouting fresh leaves, attracting giraffes, elephants, and kudus to feed on the tender foliage.

One exciting sighting involved a leopard perched on a sausage tree, waiting for impalas to graze beneath. The ambush proved successful when she leapt down, securing her prey right before our eyes. The cub, although shy, continued to be sighted playing in trees, providing plenty of entertainment during our drives.

The resident male leopard, Rra Tsebe, is known for his preference for reedbuck prey, and he was frequently spotted between Kwara and Splash camps. We also observed a mother leopard and her cub frequenting the eastern parts of the concession. The mother diligently fed her cub, as evidenced by kills spotted at Mabala, Dikgokong,and Giraffe Pan.

The mother cheetah and her four cubs continued to thrive in the Kwara Private Concession. The cubs, now more adventurous, occasionally disrupted their mother’s hunts and began to display budding hunting instincts.

A solitary male cheetah was spotted in the Bat-Eared Fox area, showcasing his hunting prowess with consistent success. Another coalition of two male cheetahs was also seen marking their domain near Ngorongoro, giving guests an incredible glimpse of their territorial behaviour. A memorable moment occurred when these brothers took down a young zebra after a strategic hunt.

The drying floodplains provided open spaces for grazing, drawing herds of zebras and wildebeest, while the flourishing vegetation created a vibrant habitat for both predators and prey.

Over at the Xobega heronry, waterbirds were actively nesting. We logged pink-backed pelicans and the migratory bird species, such as yellow-billed storks abd southern carmine bee-eaters, added richness to the skies and waters. Raptors, including martial eagles, bateleurs, and long-crested eagles, were also spotted frequently.

The drying floodplains created a prime grazing area, attracting diverse species. Buffalo herds were abundant, alongside zebras, wildebeest, giraffes and large herds of elephants with their young calves. We also recorded rare sightings of roan and sable antelopes, plus eland. Reedbuck, tsessebe, and warthogs were frequently encountered in the open plains. Aardwolves, African civets, honey badgers, and servals were spotted during night drives. Side-striped jackals with four shy pups were also located near Splash Camp, while porcupines were frequently seen south of Baboon Island.

Last but not least, the lions of Kwara

The Kwara Pride, comprising lionesses with cubs of varying ages — five, seven, and four months — was a highlight. This pride primarily roamed the western side near Bat-Eared Fox and has not ventured to Kwara Island or the camp as frequently as in the past. Four dominant males continued to follow the pride, ensuring its safety. Recently, three subadult lions (two females and one male) entered the area, demonstrating impressive hunting skills as they took down a buffalo bull in a thrilling display for guests.

Another dramatic moment unfolded as two lions from the Mopane pride attacked a solitary male near Jackal Pan. The intense fight lasted 45 minutes before hyenas joined the chaos, attempting to scavenge. This created a whirlwind of action, with the lion escaping amidst the commotion.

Lions at Splash CampIn addition to the Kwara Pride, two new male lions were spotted in the concession, one notably recognized by his one eye. Their presence appears to have forced the renowned solitary male lion, Johnnie Walker, to vanish from the area. Meanwhile, Mma Leitho pride remains active, working hard to protect their cubs from the intruding male lions.

We observed a spectacular sighting at Splash Camp, where a lioness hunted a zebra to feed the cubs. The cubs honed their hunting instincts by playfully chasing the tails of the protective males.

(Please note: For the safety of the animals, we do not disclose the precise location of either rhino or pangolin sightings. Accompanying pictures are from our Kwando Photo Library which consists of all your great photo submissions over the years, it may not be the most up to date, but we felt it was worthy of a feature alongside this month’s Sightings Report!)

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Kwara and Splash Camps, September 2024

As spring melted into summer, the floodplains began to dry, revealing trampled grasslands and making for optimal game viewing.

At Splash Camp, 17 adult African wild dogs and 14 puppies fed on an impala near Sable Island. Another morning, an extraordinary sight unfolded as the pack chased impalas right through the camp, with some dogs sprinting across the main deck! The commotion ended with a successful kill just in front of the office. Unfortunately, two puppies went missing that morning. However, the pack’s resilience was evident as they defended their pups from lions after losing a reedbuck kill near Ngorongoro.

The Kwara pack, consisting of 17 adults and 12 puppies, delivered spectacular moments. Early in September, the pack successfully hunted three impalas in the open plains of Mmoloki Mabala. Over the following week, they established a temporary den near Kevin’s Crossing, where the adults regurgitated food for the young ones after their hunts.

Life-giving rivers and Godikwe Heronry activity

The blooming sausage and camel thorn trees added bursts of colour to the Kwara Private Concession. Mokoro rides from both camps offered serene encounters with water lilies, frogs, and elephants crossing the river.

These waterways attracted herds of buffaloes and elephants, with the latter often seen swimming or applying their signature “mud sunscreen. ” This behaviour helps them regulate their body temperature and protect their skin from the sun. At Kwara, a herd of over 1000 buffaloes was sighted east of camp.

The Godikwe and Xhobega heronries buzzed with activity as yellow-billed and marabou storks, pelicans, and herons nested and bred. Ostriches with chicks were seen near the airstrip, and migratory species like yellow-billed kites and southern carmine bee-eaters, known for their striking red plumage, marked the start of the migration season. Sunset cruises along the channel provided enchanting views of hippos, crocodiles, and vibrant birdlife. Crocodiles basked along the waterways while frogs and insects emerged, signalling the shift in temperatures.

The Big Cats of Kwara: lions, leopards and cheetahs

At Splash, the resident mother leopard and her cub captivated all who saw them. Early in the month, the mother hoisted an impala kill into a tree while her cub hid safely nearby. Later, the duo scavenged from an elephant carcass near camp, highlighting their survival skills. Rratsebe made a notable Splash cameo near Sable Island, satiated from a fresh kill. This dominant male leopard typically stays closer to Kwara Camp, where we found him on a red lechwe kill for two days. A shy female was also observed dragging an impala kill from a tree, and guests were delighted to spot another relaxed male lounging atop a termite mound, the perfect photographic subject.

Leopard at Kwara Camp

The resident lion pride at Kwara —12 females and subadults, accompanied by seven playful cubs — made regular appearances. Early in the month, they were tracked near the Bat-eared Fox Den area, and they eventually settled in the shade after a successful hunt. The coalition of three dominant males was often found nearby, exuding their effortless power on open floodplains. Tension filled the air mid-month when two intruding males feasted on a buffalo carcass at Hippo Pan, surrounded by over 20 hyenas eager for scraps. Meanwhile, the legendary solitary male lion, John Walker, demonstrated his stealth, guarding a warthog kill near Jackal Den.

At Splash, lion drama unfolded with intensity. A pride of three — a subadult male and two lionesses — guarded a waterbuck kill south of camp, fiercely fending off a hyena pack’s attempts to steal their meal. Spotted hyenas frequented Kevin’s Crossing, also scavenging from wild dog kills and creating intense encounters. The scavengers capitalized on two elephant carcasses, performing as nature’s cleanup crew.

Later in September, a territorial clash, a common occurrence among lion prides, saw the Kwara Pride of eight chase off two rival lions in a heart-pounding encounter. Such encounters are crucial to maintaining the pride’s territory and ensuring the safety of its members. Meanwhile, Mma Leitho’s daughter was seen near Waterbuck Pan, carefully nurturing her cubs.

At Splash, a sole male cheetah was located near the Bat-Eared Fox Den after a 30-minute tracking session, and a coalition of two males delivered action-packed moments to guests at Kwara Camp. The brothers were seen several times. They were found feeding on an impala at Gomms Crossing, but their most notable appearance was along the Splash Boat Station road, where they stalked and attempted to catch a warthog. They were unsuccessful as the wind betrayed their presence. Just another challenge after the high density of lions…

Night drives revealed an array of fascinating mammals, including aardwolves, aardvarks, African wild cats, civets, genets, and porcupines.

(Please note: For the safety of the animals, we do not disclose the precise location of either rhino or pangolin sightings. Accompanying pictures are from our Kwando Photo Library which consists of all your great photo submissions over the years, it may not be the most up to date, but we felt it was worthy of a feature alongside this month’s Sightings Report!)

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Kwara and Splash Camp, August 2024

Both Kwara and Splash experienced an abundance of general game. Massive herds of buffalo were frequently seen along Tsum Tsum Road and Bat Eared Fox plains, often attracting the attention of lions, with multiple prides crisscrossing the area.

In Kwara, the fragmented pride of lionesses became a frequent sight, nurturing their cubs. One game drive, we followed lion tracks for nearly an hour, leading us to a tense stand-off between the lions and a massive herd of buffalo. Dust rose as the lions attempted to breach the herd’s defences, but the buffaloes stood their ground, shielding their calves from the predators in a breathtaking display.

At Splash, lion dynamics took on a fascinating complexity. Multiple prides navigated the area, leading to unpredictable encounters. A lone female, with her cubs in tow, sought refuge deep within the marshes to avoid marauding males and rival prides. Three new pairs of young male lions were seen, putting pressure on the established dominant males, who spent much of their time patrolling territory to fend off these challengers.

The Return of the African wild dogs: playful puppies stole the show

After months of absence, the big pack of wild dogs made a triumphant return to the area, bringing with them 13 energetic puppies. Their playful antics and thrilling chases, especially when they pursued red lechwe through water, created dramatic scenes right in front of Kwara Camp. The excitement was palpable as the pack reestablished itself, while a splinter group of four adults explored independently, adding some unpredictability to their movements and keeping us on the edge of our game drive seats.

Wild dogs Kwara Camp

At Splash, wild dog sightings soared toward the end of the month as this resident pack, with its 18 adults and 13 puppies, revitalized the predator landscape. Their presence led to unforgettable game drives filled with heartwarming and dynamic interactions, showcasing the interconnectedness of the wildlife in the area.

Pangolins and spotted hyena dens

August night drives proved especially rewarding for spotting smaller, often overlooked creatures. Civets, genets, servals and honey badgers were seen frequently, while rarer finds included aardvarks and multiple sightings of the endangered pangolin.

Hyenas continued to make their presence known, both audibly and visually. At Kwara, a new den south of Pelican Pan was discovered, and a lone female and her offspring became regular visitors. The eerie nighttime howls were a constant reminder of the wilderness beyond the campfire, and a particularly intriguing moment came when four hyenas were tracked hot on the trail of a young male lion.

Leopard and cheetah encounters: stealth and surprise!

Kwara and Splash camps didn’t disappoint with multiple sightings of these elusive cats. At Kwara, a large male leopard was spotted stalking reedbucks along Riverine Road, while a shy female was seen dining on an impala high up in a tree at Machaba East.

Meanwhile, a resident female and her playful cub at Splash delighted visitors with their nurturing and mischievous antics. However, the mood shifted when another female, known for previously having two cubs around Ngorongoro, was seen with only one, sparking concern for the missing offspring. The imposing resident male leopard, Rra Tsebe, continued his reign, confidently patrolling the plains between Tau Island, the airstrip and Lechwe Plains.

At Kwara, a formidable coalition of two male cheetahs continued to dominate the landscape. These speedsters were seen feasting on a warthog near Lechwe Corner, often returning to familiar posts once marked by the famous cheetah, Mr. Special. Guests were mesmerized by the sheer speed and precision of the hunt when watching these cheetahs in full pursuit of prey. It’s a performance that remains one of the most thrilling wildlife experiences in the Okavango Delta.

Elephants were plentiful, with large herds moving through the Kwara Private Concession, taking advantage of the seasonal water sources. Unique sightings of rarer species like roan and sable antelope were also recorded, along with the usual abundance of zebras, wildebeests, tsessebes, red lechwes, and other small antelopes.

A happening heronry and other birding highlights

The heronry bustled with marabou storks and carmine bee-eaters. Sitatunga antelope were sighted along the channel during boat cruises, and water monitors and crocodiles were often seen basking along the riverbanks.

Boat Cruise Kwara Camp

Raptors like martial eagles and African fish eagles patrolled the skies while the resident wattled cranes at Splash continued to impress bird enthusiasts.

At the same time, the seasonal floods led to an uptick in insect life, with dragonflies and butterflies creating a lively buzz around camp water sources.

(Please note: For the safety of the animals, we do not disclose the precise location of either rhino or pangolin sightings. Accompanying pictures are from our Kwando Photo Library which consists of all your great photo submissions over the years, it may not be the most up to date, but we felt it was worthy of a feature alongside this month’s Sightings Report!)

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Kwara and Splash Camp, July 2024

The Kwara Private Concession was a hotbed of lion activity, with several prides firmly establishing their dominance.

The Kwara pride was a particular highlight, with two lionesses caring for cubs of different ages — two and a half months and three months. Under the protection of a formidable coalition of four males, these young cubs were a source of endless fascination during game drives. The pride’s strength was on full display as they feasted on an array of prey, including zebras, elephants, wildebeests, and buffaloes.

A large clan of spotted hyenas was located feeding on one of these buffalo carcasses, while another clan was found at a den near the Splash boat station, where five playful cubs entertained guests with their antics. Another particularly memorable sighting involved a group of hyenas chasing a porcupine!

The lion cubs are being raised in a secure environment where their survival chances are high, thanks to the vigilant males who ensure territorial control.

Over at Splash Camp, the Mmaleitho lion pride also delivered thrilling sightings. Early in the month, guests witnessed an adrenaline-pumping hunt, where two lionesses brought down a fully grown male kudu near Ngayaya lagoon. The pride, which includes five cubs and two males, was regularly seen feeding on carcasses in the area, providing ample viewing opportunities. As the month came to a close, the pride was found feasting on an elephant carcass near Mophane Pan.

A young male leopard was seen taking down a vulture near this elephant carcass, showcasing his growing confidence as a hunter.

Leopard Kwara Concession

Leopard sightings were plentiful across both camps, with the resident leopards providing an intimate look into their stealthy lives. At Kwara, a resident female leopard and her cub regularly appeared, along with Rra Tsebe, the dominant male. On the western side of the concession, another large male, though slightly more elusive, added an element of mystery to the leopard encounters.

At Splash, guests were treated to exciting leopard sightings, including a hunt near the boat station led by Rra Tsebe himself. A female leopard and her cub were also seen, perched high in a tree with a reedbuck carcass, while another female was spotted with a vervet monkey kill that was eventually snatched by opportunistic hyenas.

Masters of speed

A coalition of two male cheetahs were frequently spotted patrolling their territory and hunting with remarkable precision. These cheetahs are well-known for their strategic movements, crisscrossing the concession from east to west to ensure control over their domain. Their swift hunts targeted impalas and other game.

A single male cheetah, now ruling the territory once held by the famous Mr Special, covered vast ground from Ngayaya lagoon to the Bat-eared Fox Den open plains. The two males from Kwara, who had been absent for two months, reappeared in mid-July, engaging in successful hunts.

At Kwara, a pack of six African wild dogs and another of three were observed, with one successful hunt on a female impala by the smaller group. Splash camp reported fewer sightings, but the presence of tracks hinted at a larger pack, possibly numbering between 15 and 30. Six dogs with blood-stained necks were also seen near Ngorongoro, likely after a recent hunt.

Honey badgers, aardwolves, civets, genets, bat-eared foxes, and porcupines were frequently spotted during night drives. One particularly captivating sighting involved a wildcat successfully hunting a mouse.

Floodwaters poured into Kwara

The arrival of floodwaters in July transformed the landscape, drawing large herds of elephants and buffaloes to the riverbanks. Giraffes, zebras, wildebeests, and various antelope species — including roan, sable, and sitatunga sightings — were abundant across the Kwara Private Concession. The lush greenery and swelling rivers made for spectacular game drives along the Moanachira River. The arrival of floodwaters increased insect activity, especially noticeable during sunset boat cruises, attracting avian predators that snapped them up.

boat cruise at Kwara Camp

Raptors like tawny eagles and bateleur eagles soared high above the floodplains. Guests saw an African fish eagle stealing prey from a saddle-billed stork, plus wattled cranes, while an ostrich put on a rare and captivating mating display. Vultures were common at feeding sites, and marabou storks were frequently seen, especially around elephant carcasses.

Cooler weather meant fewer reptile sightings, but a few black mambas were spotted, along with crocodiles basking along the waterways. Water monitor lizards were spied near the elephant drinking spots.

The skies in July were a sight to behold, with spectacular sunrises and clear views of constellations like Orion’s Belt and Pleiades. The nights were illuminated by a bright moon, Venus, and Mercury.

(Please note: For the safety of the animals, we do not disclose the precise location of either rhino or pangolin sightings. Accompanying pictures are from our Kwando Photo Library which consists of all your great photo submissions over the years, it may not be the most up to date, but we felt it was worthy of a feature alongside this month’s Sightings Report!)

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Kwara and Splash Camp, June 2024

At Splash Camp, aardwolves were found raising two pups in a den, and serval cats were hunted with precision during night drives.

There were also frequent appearances by bat-eared foxes, African wild cats, honey badgers, civets, genets, and porcupines.

The resident male cheetah at Kwara provided heart-pounding moments, chasing down a male impala only to have his hard-earned kill stolen by opportunistic spotted hyenas. This male was regularly seen hunting near Splash Hippos and Ngorongoro. A female cheetah at Impala Pan was observed feeding on an impala and later attempting an unsuccessful hunt on the southern side of Mangosteen Island.

At Splash, a new male cheetah claimed the territory once ruled by Mr. Special. Specialised in hunting warthogs, his predictable movements made him a regular feature on safari drives, delighting guests with his hunting prowess.

Countless kills, cats and Kwara Lion Pride splits

Abundant herds of buffaloes, elephants, zebras, red lechwes, tsessebes, wildebeests, and giraffes roamed the Kwando Private Concession, providing plenty of prey. Notably, breeding herds of elephants have been seen swimming along the Kwara floodplains and Splash reported sightings of roans, sable antelopes, and significant herds of buffaloes and elephants moving south.

The Kwara Pride has split into two distinct family units. This significant split indicates a change in the pride’s social structure and behaviour. One male patrols around Last Mabala, while his two brothers have been frequently sighted near the Bat-Eared Fox Den. The pride feasted on a giraffe carcass in a scene teeming with drama as two hyenas and countless vultures circled for scraps.

Splash Camp

Meanwhile, the Mma Leitlho Pride dominated the southern side of Ngorongoro Lagoon. We tracked them to the remnants of a red lechwe kill and later feeding on a giraffe calf, alerted to their presence by the alarm calls of side-striped jackals. Near the airstrip, a lone male lion from the Mopane Pride was observed mating with a female before stealing an impala carcass from a leopard.

At Splash Camp, lion sightings were equally spectacular. A northern influx of lions searching for prey led to intense territorial clashes, pushing the resident males and the Mma Leitlho Pride southeast. One new male lion met a tragic end, killed by three Kwara Pride males near the airstrip, highlighting the brutal nature of lion dominance in these areas.

The resident female leopard at Kwara, Sadi, was seen feeding on an impala carcass with her two cubs. Another female with one cub regularly appeared in the southern Ngorongoro Lagoon area. A thrilling leopard battle between two males in the long grass added excitement to our leopard log. One female leopard was even spotted scavenging an elephant carcass on Flame Lily Road, proving survival requires adaptability.

At Splash, a reliable resident female leopard raised her cub in Ngorongoro, but sadly, she lost one of her cubs during the month. New, more elusive leopards were also observed in the area, adding a sense of mystery to the wilderness.

Hyenas at the den 

The resident pack of 21 African wild dogs made a long-awaited return to Kwara after a three-week absence. Meanwhile, a smaller pack of three was seen chasing red lechwe with determination. The same trio, including a collared male, occasionally appeared near Splash Camp.

Spotted hyena activity surged at Kwara, where the southern den was bustled with a new pup, and we witnessed hyenas stealing an impala carcass from a leopard. A group of 12 hyenas was spotted between Flame Lily and One Hippo, suggesting a nearby den. Around Splash Camp’s Tau Island, hyena sightings were equally exciting, with three one-month-old pups and four older pups surrounded by six mothers. Hyenas were also seen scavenging a male giraffe carcass, joined by black-backed jackals in a classic scene of scavenger teamwork.

Crocodiles, geckos, side-striped skinks, and the occasional black mamba were seen. At Splash, water monitor lizards took advantage of the influx of floodwater while birds filled the skies. Flocks of pelicans fed in trapped rivers by the new bridge, joined by yellow-billed storks, wattled cranes, slaty egrets, and African spoonbills.

(Please note: For the safety of the animals, we do not disclose the precise location of either rhino or pangolin sightings. Accompanying pictures are from our Kwando Photo Library which consists of all your great photo submissions over the years, it may not be the most up to date, but we felt it was worthy of a feature alongside this month’s Sightings Report!)

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Kwara and Splash Camp, May 2024

During mokoro rides, guests spotted painted and long-reed frogs in the channels twisting around the Kwara Private Concession and its shifting landscape.

Sunset boat cruises were consistently delightful, offering sightings of elephants crossing the river, large crocodiles basking on riverbeds, and hippos grazing in the Okavango waters. Notably, a Pel’s fishing owl was spotted along the Maonachira channel a few times, and guides noted that water flow in the main channel increased, indicating recent floods. We expect the floodplains to be replenished soon.

The onset of winter was visible in the landscapes, with some trees shedding their leaves and grasses trampled by elephants and herds of buffaloes, creating better game viewing opportunities.

A beautiful black-footed cat

Night game drives revealed the world of smaller mammals and nocturnal predators. Servals, civets, small spotted cats, and other species were frequently observed. One memorable encounter involved witnessing a serval cat hunting and successfully catching a mouse. Additionally, a Black-footed cat, the smallest of the African wild cats was seen hunting close to our vehicle during an evening drive, providing an intimate view of its behaviour. Sightings of small spotted genets, spring hares, bush babies, African wild cats, and servals enriched our night drives.

Hyena dens and African wild dogs digging

Thanks to a den southwest of Puffy and Big Man’s Pan, we had wonderful spotted hyena sightings, allowing us to observe cubs almost daily.

A large clan of hyenas was frequently seen in the western part of Kwara Camp along the firebreak and around some African wild dog kills. One morning, after tracking a pack of 21 wild dogs for 30 minutes, we witnessed them successfully hunt and kill an adult male impala. The same pack was seen in the afternoon, where we followed them as they flushed out common reedbucks. Antelopes scattered in different directions, confusing the dogs, who gave up the chase and walked along the road. Interestingly, five minutes later, we spotted another common reedbuck standing still near the road, unnoticed by the dogs as they passed by.

The same pack was located south of Splash in the floodplains, where they made a kill of three common reedbucks. We found the pack near Sable Island, with the alpha female heavily pregnant and her pack members digging a hole, indicating they may be preparing a new den. Later, the pack was seen east of Splash, crossing into Moremi Game Reserve. The pack divided, with some dogs calling from the other side of the river. We wait with bated breath!

Cheetah update from Kwara

We encountered cheetahs hunting three to four times this month and located them on kills. One subadult male cheetah was tracked for an hour and found east of our boat station, lying on a termite mound next to a common reedbuck, seemingly unaware of the antelope’s presence. An adult male cheetah was spotted southwest of Splash Camp, successfully killing a piglet near the Lechwe Plains area. A female cheetah was located along Gomms Crossing, feeding on a warthog, and another male cheetah was seen hunting warthogs east of Splash but was unsuccessful.

Cheetah kill at Kwara

A lot of lion sightings!

General game viewing was exceptional. Large herds of elephants and buffaloes frequently drank water at the lagoon in front of Kwara Camp. Sizable herds of buffaloes, including a massive herd of over one thousand individuals, were observed west of Kwara Camp. The drying waterholes concentrated animals along the seasonal floodplains, enhancing game viewing opportunities for sable antelopes, giraffes, zebras, kudus, waterbucks, hippos, red lechwe, common reedbucks, and tsessebe antelopes. Smaller species like steenboks were spotted in the open areas.

Lion sightings this month highlighted the intricate social structures, hunting strategies, and territorial behaviours of the prides at Kwara and Splash Camps.

Lion at Splash Camp

At Splash Camp, the Kwando trackers worked diligently. One morning, after a two-hour tracking session north of the boat station, they located the resident Mopane pride of nine lions. The pride was actively hunting buffalo, but unfortunately, it was unsuccessful. Later, the same Mopane pride was observed north of Waterbuck Pan, moving into the bushes.

Late in May, the Kwara pride was involved in a dramatic encounter with two male leopards over an impala carcass. The leopards were forced up a tree by the lions, who fed on the fallen impala. After the lions left, the leopards descended, providing a memorable sighting for our guests.

Another pride consisting of two lionesses with six cubs of varying sizes was seen south of Ngorongoro Plains, feeding on a female waterbuck early in the morning. The Mma Leitho pride was located south of Ngorongoro, feeding on a waterbuck carcass. This pride was consistently spotted with cubs, but sadly, one cub was noted missing, and its fate remains unknown.

Males sure flexed their territorial muscles this month. Two dominant male lions were located west of the old boat station. An hour later, a new subadult male appeared, leading to a dramatic chase by the dominant males, forcing the newcomer to flee into the bushes. Mid-month, another intruder male lion was spotted late in the evening near the airstrip during a night game drive, marking his territory in the bushes. Three brothers from the Kwara pride were also located mating with a young female from a different pride. The dominant male among the brothers was in charge of mating while the other two rested nearby.

Two lionesses were seen hunting a red lechwe antelope at Last Mabala, but failed. The Kwara pride was again located northeast of Bat-eared Fox area, feeding on a buffalo early in the morning. We spent considerable time observing their feeding behaviour, and later, many hyenas attempted to outcompete the lions but were unsuccessful.

A pride of five females and one male was located at Bat-eared Fox along the floodplains, stalking wildebeest. However, baboons spoiled their hunt by making alarm calls from the trees.

More big cats spotted

A female leopard was seen resting atop a leadwood tree, keenly watching a kudu approaching but choosing not to make a move. A subadult male leopard was located east of Room 1 at Splash Camp with an impala kill, remarkably well hidden from other predators. A mating pair of leopards was observed south of Splash, crossing into an inaccessible island.

Further encounters included two male leopards of different ages engaging in a territorial dispute along Buffalo Road. The mating pair from earlier in the month was seen again near Impala and heading towards Machaba East. A relaxed male leopard was sighted atop a termite mound, providing a perfect opportunity for prolonged observation. That evening, a young female leopard sat perched on a sausage tree along the firebreak upon returning from a boat activity.

Later in May, a male leopard was located close to Kwara Camp during a night game drive. He was very relaxed as he moved towards the woodland from the marsh, marking his territory.

(Please note: For the safety of the animals, we do not disclose the precise location of either rhino or pangolin sightings. Accompanying pictures are from our Kwando Photo Library which consists of all your great photo submissions over the years, it may not be the most up to date, but we felt it was worthy of a feature alongside this month’s Sightings Report!)

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Kwara and Splash Camp, April 2024

The resident female leopard was seen stalking lechwes near Kwara Lagoon, much to the delight of mokoro guests on their afternoon activity.

The Rra Tsebe leopard was frequently seen around Giraffe Pan and Lechwe Plains. It successfully hunted a reedbuck at Pelican Pan before being chased off by lions.

During an extraordinary afternoon drive, we followed a male leopard as he stealthily stalked a sounder of five warthogs — a mother and her four piglets. This family of warthogs, affectionately known as Matirn in camp, are well-known residents of Kwara Camp. Sadly, during this encounter, the mother lost one of her piglets to the leopard.

Another male leopard at Buffalo Pan stalked and killed a warthog. At Splash, various resident leopards were seen, including a male along Impala Pan, another scavenging on a giraffe carcass, and a subadult male near the parking area. Our resident female, Splash Girl, was located with her three-month-old cub, and other females were seen hunting or resting in trees.

The African wild dogs of Kwara and Splash

At Kwara, we witnessed a dramatic encounter where a civet fought off an African wild dog at Last Mabala. After three weeks, the resident pack of 21 African wild dogs returned to Kwara. A new pack of seven dogs, six males and a female, was seen along Graded Road, and another small pack of three dogs was spotted at Last Mabala.

At Splash, the resident pack of 21 wild dogs was seen after vultures led us to a kudu carcass. This pack was later found heading southeast, hunting a fully grown impala. A single dog from a pack of six was located east of Ngayaya Lagoon, calling for its family members.

Wild dogs Okavango Delta

At Splash, new male cheetahs started appearing, having pushed our resident male, Mr. Special, further west. A young, relaxed male cheetah was seen east of the camp, and a female cheetah hunted red lechwes. The resident male cheetah at Kwara did well, seen at Splash Hippos and Willie’s Valley. A female cheetah, previously known for losing her cubs, was seen hunting lechwes near the fishing boat area.

As winter approached, the landscape started to change rapidly. Leaves and grasses were drying and turning brown, and most animals concentrated along the marginal mixed woodlands and seasonal floodplains, where new grass shoots were emerging.

Lion prides split and reunite over a buffalo meal 

The dynamics within the lion prides at Kwara and Splash camps were particularly fascinating. The Kwara pride experienced significant splitting due to hunting challenges, with nine members found across locations from Sethabana to Pelican Pan. Two nursing lionesses with three cubs were frequently seen along the Xugana main road, while a mother with a single cub and four other pride members dominated the Last Mabala area. The pride reunited to kill a buffalo at Sephane sa Mojereman, the first time they had come together in a while.

Meanwhile, the Mma Leitlho pride east of Splash thrived with all six cubs well cared for. This pride faced an invasion from a new pride of 13 lions from the east, although the intruders left the following night. One morning, alarm calls from monkeys led us to the Mma Leitho pride, consisting of two adult lionesses and six cubs of varying sizes. This pride showcased their hunting abilities by killing a blue wildebeest and a tsessebe. The Mopane pride, residing in the northern mopane woodlands, was seen following a large herd of buffaloes. Additionally, a new male lion was spotted along Machaba East.

Reptile sightings included crocodiles, geckos, and side-striped skinks. A black mamba was located within the blue bush, mobbed by birds. Another impressive sight was the large flock of pelicans feasting in a trapped, drying river at the new bridge. Joined by marabou storks and yellow-billed storks, creating a bustling and noisy congregation, the sight and sound of hundreds of these birds feeding were captivating.

Additionally, we observed various water birds feasting on trapped fish in waterholes cut off from the mainstream. Among these were yellow-billed storks, wattled cranes, slaty egrets, white and pink-backed pelicans, and African spoonbills seen around the ponds.

Hyena activity was high, with their calls frequently heard around camp at night. At Kwara, a dead giraffe at Wild Dog Pan attracted over 20 hyenas. A new den with two females and three pups was found on Tau Island.

Kwara camp room

General game was abundant, with large herds of buffaloes, elephants, and zebras moving towards the main river as the natural waterholes dried up. The camp waterholes attracted a variety of antelope, including greater kudus, impalas, tsessebes, waterbucks, common reedbucks, wildebeests, giraffes, and zebras.

Steenboks were frequently spotted around Thware Mogobe, adding to the diversity of our sightings. Porcupines and springhares were active, providing guests with a wide array of smaller mammal sightings during their night drives. Over at Splash Camp, one evening, just an hour after leaving camp, we located an aardwolf with two cubs southwest of the camp. We also observed a serval cat successfully hunting a mouse, highlighting the rich predator-prey dynamics in the area. Bat-eared foxes were regularly seen, and the resident genet appeared around the main area.

(Please note: For the safety of the animals, we do not disclose the precise location of either rhino or pangolin sightings. Accompanying pictures are from our Kwando Photo Library which consists of all your great photo submissions over the years, it may not be the most up to date, but we felt it was worthy of a feature alongside this month’s Sightings Report!)

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Kwara and Splash Camp, February 2024

Despite lowering water levels, we continued with stunning boat cruises along the Maonachira River and mokoro activities.

The permanent swamp was lush and green with snowflake grass and both water lily species blooming on the fringes of the channel. 

Giraffe numbers were abundant, with eleven individuals sighted during a boat cruise. Crocodiles and monitor lizards were frequently spotted on the riverbanks during sunset sails. During mokoro outings, guests got close to the Okavango Delta’s various frog species, including long-reed frogs, Angolan reed frogs, and banded reed frogs.

African wild dog antics

A pack of 20 African wild dogs temporarily left the area and were last seen to the east of Splash Camp on the 10th of the month. However, fresh tracks showed that they had returned and were seen to the west of Tsessebe Pan. Two wild dogs were spotted at Tsessebe Pan chasing down impalas. Earlier in the month, we observed a further pack of six wild dogs feeding on an impala carcass at Motswiri Mogobe.

In the meantime, another pack of 22 wild dogs returned to the reserve from the Khwai area. We traced their tracks north of the camp at Splash. Later, they were seen as we off-roaded near Splash Hippo and headed north towards Tsum Tsum Plains.

African wild dogs Tsum Tsum

Spotted hyenas were active at their favourite lair south of Kwara Camp, where a single jet-black pup was spotted. One day, nine hyenas pilfered from a male leopard while he was enjoying a meal west of Peter’s Crossing. Additionally, a group of 12 hyenas was located along Elephant West Road during the late afternoon, suggesting a nearby den as two lactating mothers were identified. Moreover, there has been increased hyena activity around Kwara Camp, with sightings becoming a common occurrence during both evenings and early mornings.

A lion pride update from the Kwara Private Concession 

Lion sightings were abundant, with the Kwara Pride splitting into two family units. One of the three males from the Kwara Pride was frequently spotted at Last Mabala, while his two brothers roamed more towards the western side of Bat Eared Fox Den drawn by the high number of red lechwes and dazzles of zebras along the plains. 

Despite being chased away last month, the Mopane Pride returned to the area, primarily lingering on the western side of Splash Hippos. The resident Splash Pride did not frequently cover this area due to the limitations of the four cubs in covering long distances like the adults.

The Mma Leitho pride, often seen around Mangosteen Island with their cubs, enjoyed several successful hunting ventures, including feeding on a zebra carcass they killed the previous night with two dominant males. 

Lions at Kwara

A young male, approximately three years old, believed to have been evicted from his maternal territory, was observed on a hunt for a giraffe calf, albeit unsuccessfully. The Sephane pride was seen multiple times between Mabala, Matotsi, Kwara, and Splash Hippos. Two dominant males were chasing them from the Mma Leitho pride around Thware Pan during our most recent sightings of them.

In Splash, the resident Splash Pride remained active. They were primarily sighted in the northeast and southeast areas, where prey species are abundant due to short grasses and rainwater in the pans. Their prey included zebras, wildebeests, waterbucks, reedbucks, and warthogs. 

Leopards, cheetahs and servals too

A mother leopard with her two cubs was located between Springhare City and Sekgapa Sa Khudu, indicating a new leopard presence in the area. Meanwhile, in Splash, two leopards were found on Flame Lily Island atop a tree, displaying relaxed behaviour. They were left undisturbed for a sundowner, still perched in the trees. The resident female from Kwara Camp remained around Kwara Island, with tracks often spotted around the camp. The last week of February proved fruitful, with sightings of three different leopards in various areas, all exhibiting relaxed behaviour.

Both Kwara and Splash had great cheetah activity. In Kwara, Mr. Special was spotted at Last Mabala after a two-month absence, displaying robust health and a full belly. A female cheetah was also seen at Impala Pan, feeding on an impala carcass she had hunted. The resident male cheetahs remain in the western region, likely attracted by the expansive open plains and abundant antelope populations, offering ample prey and reduced competition from other predators.

Significant elephant herds congregated around the wetlands, with a considerable breeding herd observed swimming along a channel at New Bridge. The eastern areas boasted plentiful herds of zebras, tsessebe, and wildebeest. Meanwhile, at Splash, the general game sightings remained robust, with the usual array of prey animals, such as zebras, frequently grazing and drinking near the camp waterhole. Significant herds of wildebeest, elephants, greater kudu, and other species were logged. Two sightings of sable antelope were also recorded.

We enjoyed multiple sightings of serval cats in the vicinity of New Bridge. Banded mongooses were a regular feature on game drives, and a sizable colony of dwarf mongooses caught our attention at Honeymoon Pan. 

Reptiles were quite active, too. At Wild Dog Pan, a massive snouted cobra was sighted, and we located striped-bellied sand snakes, a python, a puff adder and green-spotted snakes. The Bushveld rain frog was often spotted near Room 6 at Splash Camp, where it has made its home.

(Please note: For the safety of the animals, we do not disclose the precise location of either rhino or pangolin sightings. Accompanying pictures are from our Kwando Photo Library which consists of all your great photo submissions over the years, it may not be the most up to date, but we felt it was worthy of a feature alongside this month’s Sightings Report!)

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Kwara and Splash Camp, January 2024

In the heart of Kwara, one renowned leopardess showcased her hunting prowess, taking down an impala near Sable Island. 

Another skilled female leopard, on a hunt around Kwara Camp, successfully captured a young kudu close to Room 1. To the east of the new bridge, a female leopard lounged in a tree, while nearby, a male leopard in the west of Kwara Camp rested among the bushes after securing two kills.

Further off-road tracking expeditions revealed another intriguing scene: a female leopard near the new bridge, feasting on the carcass of a fully grown male red lechwe. Additionally, a male leopard claimed his spot up a tree with an impala kill, and a female leopard was spotted atop yet another tree, having skilfully caught a steenbok.

Another serene female gracefully moved between Splash and the Kwara airstrip. In the third week of the month, around the third bridge, north of the airstrip. Though she appeared to be a lactating mother, none of the guides had yet caught a glimpse of her cubs.

Guests at Splash Camp were treated to sightings of at least four relaxed leopards. Their activities included multiple kills on baby antelopes. Notably, the adult male leopard, often found in the marsh area southwest of Kwara, surprised us by venturing further than usual and was sighted north of the Splash boat station area. Perched on a sausage tree, he enjoyed a feast on a fully-grown female impala.

Six cheetahs roam around Splash Camp

The Splash Camp guide and tracker teams identified six cheetah individuals. Among them, a new coalition of two adult male cheetahs, less familiar with vehicles, dominated the east of the camp, particularly around Ngayaya Lagoon in the Ngorongoro area. The resident male cheetah, Mr. Special, whose territorial domain spans the entire Kwara Private Concession, was last observed near the Bat-Eared Fox Den in the west in the first week of the month. An addition to the scene was a young male cheetah displaying diverse movements. His explorations extended west towards the Bat-Eared Fox Den and further to the 4 Rivers area. At times, he ventured east towards the Ngorongoro area. In the most recent sighting, he was spied on Tau Island attempting to hunt reedbucks. However, a limp hindered his success. 

Mr Special Kwara

A male cheetah found south of Kwara Camp enjoyed a peaceful rest. The following day, another cheetah to the east of Last Mabala went on a thrilling hunt for zebras, unfortunately missing a foal. A male cheetah near Lechwe Plains initiated another chase, capturing a reedbuck within 20 minutes. Later in the day, a hungry male cheetah pursued a kudu herd. Notably, a pair of cheetahs, male and female, were sighted separately but in the same eastern region of Ngorongoro. The female successfully took down a common reedbuck, while a mother cheetah was spotted resting with her cubs south of Splash Hippos.

Servals and spotted hyenas 

The elegant serval cat was spotted South of Kwara Camp; characterized by its slender build, spotted coat, and large ears, it is a remarkable feline species found in the diverse ecosystems of Botswana known for its adept hunting skills. Encountering these cats in the wild is a rare and memorable experience.

In the western vicinity of Kwara Camp, a hyena clan clashed with lions over a warthog kill. The intense confrontation featured two lionesses and a single cub fiercely defending their prey. Despite their valiant efforts, the lions eventually yielded, and seven hyenas seized control of the spoils. 

During one game drive, three hyenas embarked on a pursuit of a female leopard who had successfully captured a baby kudu. The action unfolded rapidly, with the leopard swiftly turning the tables as it chased away the hyenas and in a nimble display of agility, the leopard secured its kill by swiftly ascending a nearby tree.

The wonderful wild dogs of Kwara and Splash

A pack of 21 lively African wild dogs often roamed the landscapes. They were spotted from the east of Splash Camp, all the way to Ngorongoro, west of Kwara and covering the 4 Rivers region. They engaged in the fun activity of digging, possibly in search of a den, in the northern part of the lagoon. Following their tracks along Flame Lily Road, we encountered the pack of chasing after impalas, though without success. They were also seen energetically hunting west of the Bat-Eared Fox area. 

At Splash Camp, the African wild dog sightings were equally superb. An adult pack of six, known for concentrating in the mopane woodland north of the Splash area, exhibited exceptional hunting skills. They successfully took down a male impala during a hunt at Motswiri Pan, and evidence of further kills of various baby antelope species was spotted east of the camp. 

Lion cubs Kwara

The dominant Kwara lion pride, boasting 22 members, ruled the northern territory, while the Mma Leitho Pride, with two females, four cubs, and two males, reigned in the east. Notably, the nomadic Sephane pride joined the Kwara Pride’s eastward ventures. Two male lions maintained their dominance east of Willy’s Valley. Kwara pride’s activities included feeding on a warthog at Southern Mmoloki Mabala and joining Mma Leitho pride at the Splash fishing spot.

Heading to Splash, the Mma Leitho pride, now five strong, featured two intriguing male lions that arrived last year. They extended their territory, mating with the pride and fathering four cubs. Meanwhile, the Mopane pride explored the open floodplains around Splash, following buffaloes drawn to the lush greenery.

The Kwara pride (once centred around the Bat-Eared Fox area) excitingly shifted as seven members expanded eastward, exploring new northern territories, particularly the Kalahari apple leaf trees.

Summer at Splash and Kwara 

Bee beater boat trip Splash Camp

We’ve encountered a variety of reptiles, including the boomslang, black mamba, Mozambique spitting. cobra, African rock python, and olive grass snake. The rainy season brought a surge in insect activity, with dragonflies, damselflies, African monarch butterflies, and water scorpions. Crocodiles were frequently spotted during our boat cruises along the river.

The distinctive Jacobin cuckoo, the elegant Levaillant’s cuckoo, and the mysterious black cuckoo all have been spotted. Resident and visitor bird species included the colourful woodland kingfisher, the delicate lesser jacana, the European bee-eater, the purple roller, the lilac-breasted roller, and the osprey. The skies are further adorned with the Wahlberg’s eagle, spotted eagle, tawny eagle, carmine bee-eater, robin-chats, and various species of strikes.

Massive herds of elephants, a hallmark of our concession, frequently walked the landscape. Afternoon activities unveiled the majestic presence of sizable elephant herds venturing into the open floodplain, abandoning the lush mopane woodlands abundant with food during this rainy season.

Antelope sightings included impalas, red lechwes, kudus, bushbucks, Roan antelopes, elands, and sable antelopes when traversing the route to Tsum Tsum Mabala.

(Please note: For the safety of the animals, we do not disclose the precise location of either rhino or pangolin sightings. Accompanying pictures are from our Kwando Photo Library which consists of all your great photo submissions over the years, it may not be the most up to date, but we felt it was worthy of a feature alongside this month’s Sightings Report!)

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Kwara and Splash Camp, December 2023

We encountered six cheetah individuals this month: four males, one female, and an adorable cub. 

Additionally, a cautious coalition of two male cheetahs travelled the Ngorongoro area. The movements of the resident male cheetah, Mr. Special, became intricate due to the presence of a young male in his territory at the Bat-eared fox area. Interestingly, the young male marked the same territory posts as Mr. Special. Unfortunately, a female cheetah lost two cubs to hyena threats, but she bravely cares for her surviving single cub. She spent most of her time in the West, benefiting from the open terrain, which served as an excellent hunting ground.

Cheetahs Kwara Concession by Jay Collier 2
By Jay Collier

Green season boat cruise in the Okavango Delta

The Okavango Delta waters teemed with life during boat cruises into the Moremi Game Reserve. Numerous young crocodiles inhabited the shores, and we occasionally spotted snakes, skinks, and monitor lizards along the channel. Summer migrant birds listed included carmine bee-eaters, woodland kingfishers, and yellow-billed kites. Various kinds of storks, pelicans, and, on one occasion, the violet-backed starling were observed in Kwara Camp. The heronries were all active, with Godikwe being particularly lively. 

Boat Cruise Moremi

The Kwara Pride, thriving notably, frequently roamed the Bat-eared fox area, with occasional ventures into the 4 Rivers expanse. The once-familiar pride of seven, a customary sight near Splash Camp, has embraced the sanctuary of the mopane woodland. Speculations suggest they are shadowing buffaloes drawn to the replenished inland water holes courtesy of the rainy season. 

On the eastern fringes of Splash Camp, the resilient lion pride of five, known as MmaLeitho, prospers. An exciting encounter involved these lions scavenging on an elephant carcass. In the morning game drive, we witnessed a clan of hyenas interacting with the lions. Watching these large predators engage in a standoff was captivating, with the lions emerging victorious. After a while, the lions moved away from the carcass due to the unpleasant smell, and the hyenas continued to follow them through the meadow grasses. Considering the challenging terrain, we decided to leave the scene. 

Two impressive male lions, relatively new to the east of the concession, appeared robust and handsome, with fewer battle marks on their faces. Zebras were a favoured meal, and we observed two full-grown females lying down at Ngorongoro, looking very healthy indeed.

Summer at Kwara and Splash Camp

The calving season has rewarded us with remarkable leopard sightings and these beautiful cats were often seen preying on young animals. One memorable incident involved a leopardess hunting and successfully taking down an ewe impala behind tent three at Kwara Camp, right in front of guests being escorted to their tents after dinner. She showed little concern for the onlookers as she continued with her duty, eventually dragging the kill into the bush. Another leopard appeared near the main area in the following days, heading towards tent seven.

Last week, a leopard tom made a mark by killing two prey, an ewe impala and a red lechwe. The two carcasses were skillfully hoisted into different trees. During a late afternoon game drive, we encountered a substantial female hyena lying under the same tree where one of the carcasses was kept. (The denning area near Kwara Camp was active, with nightly echoes of hyenas howling and their footprints leaving a trail along the walkways). The following day, we missed the carcass, and it appeared to have dropped down, possibly taken by a hyena. 

A female leopard known to frequent the airstrip vicinity appeared to be lactating. There was a suspicion that she might have cubs, although no one has had the privilege of confirming the presence of these elusive offspring.

The African wild dogs of the Kwara Private Concession

An established pack of 22 African wild dogs has expanded its territory and sometimes seen at 4 Rivers. The pack and its six puppies showed resilience after losing two pups last month, and abundant food sources have contributed to their well-being, including offspring from prey species such as impalas and tsessebes. There was an intense encounter when the pack ventured into Kwara Camp and successfully hunted impalas. A clan of hyenas promptly appeared, hoping to scavenge, leading to prolonged and noisy competition for food.

Recently, we observed a shift in the pack’s movements, spotting them three times heading deeper east. During one instance, we tracked them as they captured a fully grown tsessebe and took it down. The following day, we trailed them along Mabala a Matlotse. As they reached the centre, they began chasing impalas. Although the impalas managed to escape, the wild dogs turned their attention to a dazzle of zebras with small foals. In a surprising turn of events, the wild dogs successfully captured a young foal, approximately two days old. The foal’s mother valiantly tried to defend her offspring, but unfortunately for her, the wild dogs strategized and succeeded in killing the foal. 

(Please note: For the safety of the animals, we do not disclose the precise location of either rhino or pangolin sightings. Accompanying pictures are from our Kwando Photo Library which consists of all your great photo submissions over the years, it may not be the most up to date, but we felt it was worthy of a feature alongside this month’s Sightings Report!)

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