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Author: Kwando Safaris

Moremi Crossing Camp, September 2024

As September ended, our guests expressed a wish to see cheetahs before departure. Determined to fulfil their request, we ventured into the eastern part of the Gunn’s Private Concession, where we stumbled upon a thrilling hunt.

We watched as a cheetah skilfully stalked its prey, culminating in a successful kill right before our eyes. As if this wasn’t exciting enough, the cheetah left the kill momentarily to fetch its two cubs, returning to the scene to share the feast. The scene grew even more dramatic when two spotted hyenas appeared from nowhere, attempting to steal the kill. However, the cheetah’s determination prevailed, and the hyenas left with empty stomachs.

There were frequent spotted hyena sightings along the riverine areas. One epic encounter unfolded when a pride of lions faced off with a clan of hyenas over a buffalo kill. The hyenas attempted to steal the kill, but the lions had already devoured most of the buffalo and left only bones behind.

African wild dog dens and lion kills in front of camp

A pack of African wild dogs was also observed in a heated standoff with two hyenas. The hyenas attempted to steal food, but the wild dogs fiercely defended their pack, likely motivated by the need to protect their young. The scene was comical yet intense, as the hyenas kept returning, undeterred, only to be chased away repeatedly.

Additionally, earlier in the month, we discovered an African wild dog den. While the puppies had already grown and moved out after a few weeks, the sighting provided guests with a unique glimpse into the family dynamics of these incredible predators.

Two prides of lions were particularly active and frequently spotted during game drives. Two males, often called “the boys,” were sighted regularly near the camp, sometimes crossing into the Moremi Game Reserve.

One especially thrilling moment occurred near the main area of Moremi Crossing Camp, where a pride with a female lion and her three cubs made a kill. Guests witnessed the scene from the comfort of the camp — an unforgettable experience. Beyond this, other prides ventured into the concession before retreating to their usual territories, keeping the lion dynamics in the area intriguing.

One resident leopard, a magnificent cat often seen near the camp, continued to grace us with her presence. On multiple game drives, we also glimpsed other leopards.

Life is wild along the banks of the Boro River 

Elephants, zebras, giraffes, and various antelope species, including kudu and impalas, are seen regularly. With the Boro River still providing water, animals had access to abundant food and water. Crocodiles basked along the riverbanks, soaking up the sun while keeping a wary eye on the surroundings. One dominant crocodile was spotted regularly near the main area, sometimes attempting to ambush unsuspecting animals coming to drink. Common bird sightings along the riverbanks included African fish eagles, storks, great white pelicans, African jacanas, and pied kingfishers

Hippo at Moremi Crossing

Elephants were especially prominent around the camp, often wandering between the towering palm trees. Guests frequently saw them shaking the palm trees to gather the nuts before moving on to the next. Buffalo herds were another common sight, often grazing near the main area or within proximity to the rooms.

Impalas were also plentiful, often seen grazing in large numbers. Warthogs made themselves at home around camp, taking refuge under the main area and even beneath guest rooms to avoid predators. Their antics were a charming addition to camp wildlife activities.

The clear September skies offered unparalleled stargazing opportunities. The Southern Cross, Pointers, and other constellations were visible in dazzling clarity.

(Please note: For the safety of the animals, we do not disclose the precise location of either rhino or pangolin sightings. Accompanying pictures are from our Kwando Photo Library which consists of all your great photo submissions over the years, it may not be the most up to date, but we felt it was worthy of a feature alongside this month’s Sightings Report!)

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Dinare Camps, September 2024

Caracal were reported three times this month. One relaxed individual was observed along Impala Road, while another shy caracal was seen drinking at a waterhole.

This month also delivered an adrenaline-fueled spectacle. Kwando guides tracked the famed four cheetah brothers through dense mopane woodland to Roan’s Pan.

After a suspenseful 40-minute pursuit, the brothers were spotted in hunting mode. Their initial target, a dazzle of zebras, evaded them, but the action didn’t end there. A sudden burst of speed turned the tide as the brothers chased down and captured a common duiker, leaving guests in awe of astonishing agility. These four brothers continued to dominate the area, marking territory and showcasing their remarkable teamwork.

Another consistent highlight was a mother cheetah with her four cubs, now around four months old. Once shy, the cubs have grown bolder, and guests were treated to a spectacular moment when the mother took down a fully grown kudu. She later dragged the massive carcass into the shade, allowing her cubs to feast.

Four lion prides, four tiny cubs, and two elephant kills

At Rra Dinare, Tee’s pride made an epic return after months of absence. Their formidable presence was felt across the Dinare Private Reserve. Led by a single male, the pride of five lionesses and seven older cubs took down two young elephants within days. One memorable morning, they were discovered blood-stained and feasting on a subadult elephant carcass. Four days later, they had taken down another young elephant with the pride swarming the prey in under 30 minutes. Meanwhile, the territorial Gomoti Boys continued to assert their dominance, showing guests the complex lives of lions with their overlapping territories and pride dynamics.

Rra Dinare Lion
Image taken by KA Pride

Over at Mma Dinare, the resident lion pride delighted guests with the debut of four tiny cubs, just a few weeks old.

These vulnerable additions brought tender moments to the harsh wilderness, while their mothers and the pride’s three dominant males showcased their strength and unity by hunting in the Paradise Grasslands. Meanwhile, the Batshabi Pride solidified their reputation as buffalo specialists with multiple successful hunts throughout the month.

Spotted hyenas were often seen scavenging from lion and cheetah kills. At Mma Dinare, guests frequently visited an active hyena den near the camp, where pups played under the watchful eyes of the adults. At Rra Dinare, Kwando guides tracked some intriguing drag marks for over an hour, eventually locating a secretive new den where eight hyena cubs were observed outside with adults.

A growing pack of African wild dogs and lots of leopards

At Mma Dinare, a massive pack of 32 wild dogs, including 15 playful puppies, was spotted near camp. Guests were captivated by the interactions between the adults and puppies, especially as the pack returned from hunts to regurgitate food for the young ones

At Rra Dinare, wild dog tracking became an adventure. One sighting involved nearly two hours of following tracks before the dogs were found playfully interacting near their temporary den. The pack’s hierarchy was shifting, with a younger subordinate male stepping into leadership roles as an ageing alpha male started to take a backseat.

Rra Dinare Leopard
Image taken by KA Pride

At Mma Dinare, a large male leopard was frequently seen with impala kills hoisted high in the trees. Rralebodu, the dominant male, continued to assert his dominance, mating with multiple females and successfully hunting warthogs, dragging one up a tree.

On one occasion, we followed alarm calls from birds and impalas, which led to the discovery of a leopard cub. While searching for the cub, the guides stumbled upon its mother, also with a fresh kill – a phenomenal double sighting!

At Rra Dinare, an extraordinary interaction unfolded between a female leopard and an intruder near her kill, which was secured up a raintree. The two leopards engaged in a tense standoff, vocalizing and salivating but avoiding physical confrontation.

Great game – day and night!  

The dry, dusty plains were softened by the blooming sausage trees. Their red flowers lured baboons and impalas to their shade while giraffes eagerly awaited the ripening pods.

Although receding, the Gomoti River still allowed for short mokoro trips, during which guests enjoyed tranquil encounters with frogs, water lilies, and aquatic birds. The surrounding grasslands teemed with life. Elephants, giraffes, kudus, zebras, and buffalo herds moved in harmony with red lechwes and reedbucks, while roan sable antelopes took up residence in the woodlands nearest the river. Hippos and crocodiles ruled the waterways.

The arrival of summer migrants enriched the birdlife. Carmine and European bee-eaters dazzled with their vibrant colours while the haunting call of the African fish eagle echoed along the Gomoti River. Yellow-billed kites, yellow-billed storks, and various other species were frequently seen, offering spectacular birding opportunities.

Guided bush walks provided guests with a deeper connection to the wilderness, focusing on animal tracks, plants, and smaller creatures.

Night drives revealed honey badgers, porcupines, servals, civets, genets, and bat-eared foxes.

(Please note: For the safety of the animals, we do not disclose the precise location of either rhino or pangolin sightings. Accompanying pictures are from our Kwando Photo Library which consists of all your great photo submissions over the years, it may not be the most up to date, but we felt it was worthy of a feature alongside this month’s Sightings Report!)

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Nxai Pan Camp, September 2024

The lions of Nxai Pan impressed us with their majestic presence. One morning, three resident lionesses rested beside the camp waterhole. The following day, the entire pride was spotted at the same waterhole, their bellies full.

Evidence of their feast was clear, with vultures circling above the trees. Their recent kill was located just south of the waterhole in the woods.

The same lionesses were seen at the southern side of the wildlife waterhole, this time with a kudu calf kill. Adding to the drama, two males were heard roaring throughout the night. Their tracks led us to discover that they had visited the camp swimming pool for a drink.

Leopard tracks were also frequently found along the roads during game drives and within camp. The silent nature of this magnificent predator added to the excitement of knowing they were always near, even if unseen.

On 25 September, one lioness graced the waterhole, while another was seen at the wildlife waterhole feasting on a zebra, surrounded by vultures and opportunistic jackals.

A final lion highlight occurred on the 27th when three lionesses appeared just in front of the lodge. They spent the night nearby while guests enjoyed dinner, offering a close and unforgettable wildlife experience.

Springboks, elephants and more paraded the salt pans 

Springboks filled the pans, feeding on the nutrient-rich grasses alongside impalas. Blue wildebeests were a daily sight, often in large herds. A notable shift was observed as buffalo herds visited our waterhole in the mornings and afternoons, likely due to a temporary lack of water at the wildlife waterhole. Zebras also arrived in impressive numbers, painting the pans with their iconic stripes — a fascinating sight for this time of year

Elephants were a highlight, with large breeding herds and bachelor groups frequently quenching their thirst at the waterhole. Most herds appeared in the afternoons. Giraffe sightings were more limited as they ventured deeper into the bush but occasionally emerged for water.

Elephants at Nxai Pan

Dragonflies danced above the waterhole, feeding on smaller insects, while ground agama lizards were spotted basking in the sun. A leopard tortoise was seen leisurely crossing Baobab Loop, its slow pace a stark contrast to the dynamic movements of other wildlife. Butterflies added splashes of colour to the landscape, with species such as the African monarch, yellow pansy, scarlet tip and painted lady fluttering through the camp.

We also spotted Egyptian geese, grey herons, red-billed teals, and African open-billed storks at the waterhole. Nesting white-backed vultures and lappet-faced vultures were observed near the roads, and other notable sightings included the kori bustard, crimson-breasted shrike, yellow-billed hornbills, Marico flycatchers, greater kestrels, pale chanting goshawks.

Stunning scenery on a day trip to Baines’ Baobabs 

The journey to Baines’ Baobab was always an adventure, with vistas of vast plains transitioning to tall grasslands and finally opening up to the unforgettable Makgadikgadi Salt Pans. The mirage on the far horizon created an illusion of water, adding a surreal touch to the scenery. Solitary oryx bulls, with their impressive horns, were repeatedly seen seeking shade along this route during the hotter parts of the day.

Aardwolves were seen along West Road and Middle Road during the day, basking in the sun outside their burrows, while bat-eared fox pairs were spotted moving about the pans, foraging for insects and small prey. Scrub hares were frequently observed at night near the camp, foraging under cover of darkness. Up above, September constellations, Scorpio, the Southern Cross, Gemini, and Sagittarius were clearly visible, as were stars like Sirius, Canopus, and Procyon. The camp’s strategic location, with minimal light pollution and short trees, offered unparalleled views of the celestial wonders.

African wild dogs had not been seen for some time, but we identified tracks along the road to the airstrip, proving they still roamed nearby.

(Please note: For the safety of the animals, we do not disclose the precise location of either rhino or pangolin sightings. Accompanying pictures are from our Kwando Photo Library which consists of all your great photo submissions over the years, it may not be the most up to date, but we felt it was worthy of a feature alongside this month’s Sightings Report!)

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Lebala Camp, September 2024

Brown hyena sightings were a highlight this month, even though these elusive creatures quickly vanished into the marsh when spotted.

The resident pack of 12 African wild dogs, consisting of seven adults and five puppies, were highly active, moving between Selinda, Lebala, and Lagoon.

We had the incredible experience of watching them hunt and successfully take down an impala right in front of camp while we were enjoying breakfast. We followed them on several afternoon hunts, but they weren’t always successful. However, we often found them most mornings feeding on their primary prey impala.

Large herds of elephants were frequently spotted, often accompanied by playful calves. We enjoyed watching the elephants cross the river channels, bathe in the mud, and even spray themselves with water to cool off. Bachelor herds of buffalo were common along the marsh. At the same time, the semi-aquatic sitatunga antelope has been a real treat for guests, particularly when males ventured into more open areas.

Another memorable sighting involved a group of spotted hyenas feeding on the remains of a buffalo after lions had finished their meal. This provided an excellent opportunity to observe their scavenging behaviour. With the dry season in full swing, much of the wildlife has been concentrated around the marsh, and the lion prides of Lebala took full advantage.

Two strong male lion coalitions at Lebala 

One of the most fascinating developments was the emergence of two coalitions of male lions, each consisting of three individuals. The older, more dominant coalition, known as the Golden Boys, expanded its territory toward Lagoon, while the younger coalition, referred to as Rra Pandane, now asserts control over the southern area. Both coalitions shared access to a single pride of lionesses, which moved between the two territories. The tension between the two coalitions has been palpable. On several nights, we listened to the roaring contests between the two groups, with their aggressive calls echoing across the landscape. At times, we could even hear the sounds of fighting in the distance. By morning, the Golden Boys would be back in the northern territory, while the Rra Pandane coalition would have retreated to the southern boundary, with the camp seeming to act as a natural border between them.

Lions of Lebala Camp Kwando

We encountered multiple leopards in a single day on several occasions this month. One female leopard with two cubs was spotted frequently, although her cubs remained shy and tended to retreat into the thickets whenever we approached. Another female with a single cub (estimated to be around two months old) also roamed the area.

We followed a female leopard and her year-old male cub on several hunts, and one especially thrilling sighting involved a common reedbuck kill. The cub, now almost grown, was reluctant to share the meal with his mother, growling whenever she approached. Meanwhile, the two dominant male leopards in the area have been tracking each other’s movements, marking the same territories and leaving scent trails. A younger male, who was previously chased off, has reappeared in the southern part of the Kwando Private Concession, avoiding conflict with the bigger males in the north. One evening, as we tracked this younger male, we watched as an African fish eagle landed nearby, and the leopard responded by trying to attack the bird — a rare and exciting interaction.

Coalitions and constellations 

The coalition of two male cheetah brothers was a constant source of excitement, though tracking them sometimes required hours of patience. We followed them on multiple hunts, witnessing their stealthy stalking and high-speed chases, though they didn’t always succeed in bringing down prey. One day, a female cheetah entered the area, leaving scent marks that the brothers eagerly followed. We saw the pair temporarily split up as they tried to locate the female, showcasing the intense dynamics of cheetah courtship.

Large crocodiles basked along the river banks, enjoying the sun’s warmth. We also had a few encounters with snakes, though many darted into the tall grass before we could identify them. Insect activity has increased, with various species of grasshoppers, beetles, and dragonflies becoming more prominent as the season progressed.

The birds have enjoyed this flush of life, too. We had not seen any nesting carmine bee-eaters yet, but white-fronted bee-eaters nested along the riverbanks. Secretary birds roamed the plains while raptors such as African fish eagles, tawny eagles, and bateleurs were observed in the skies, often scanning for prey from high above. The wetlands provided excellent opportunities to view wading birds like herons and storks.

Wildlife showed remarkable resilience despite the increasing aridity of the woodlands and the dropping water levels in the channels. Certain trees, such as the knobbly combretum, sausage trees, rain trees, and candle-pod acacia, started to bloom, adding vibrant splashes of colour to the otherwise dry terrain.

The night sky was a breathtaking spectacle, with minimal cloud cover revealing constellations such as Orion, Scorpio, and Libra. The stars, paired with the dry season’s crisp air, made for some truly incredible evenings under the African sky. African wild cats, genets, civets, and springhares were regular sightings on our nocturnal excursions, adding to the enchantment of the night. The white-tailed mongoose was spotted on multiple night drives, and porcupines became a familiar sight in and around camp.

(Please note: For the safety of the animals, we do not disclose the precise location of either rhino or pangolin sightings. Accompanying pictures are from our Kwando Photo Library which consists of all your great photo submissions over the years, it may not be the most up to date, but we felt it was worthy of a feature alongside this month’s Sightings Report!)

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Lagoon Camp, September 2024

There was lots of action among the different Lagoon Camp prides. One unforgettable sighting occurred when we found the Holi Pride feasting on a dead elephant along Makudi Road. It appeared that the elephant, an old bull, had died of natural causes, and the pride wasted no time taking advantage of the meal. 

The Holi Pride actively hunted along the marshes near the main road and had successful hunts, mainly targeting warthogs and wildebeest. Toward the end of the month, the lions moved north, near the airstrip, expanding their range.

The three resident male lions, the Golden Boys, dominated the Second Lagoon and Kwena Lagoon areas. We spotted them at Rakgolo Road feeding on an elephant calf they had taken down the night before, spending two days devouring their kill. Another pride, the Mmamosetlha Pride, consisting of four lionesses, has successfully hunted warthogs and sometimes joined forces with the Golden Boys.

Large herds of elephants, often accompanied by tiny calves, came to the river in the early morning and late afternoon to avoid the midday heat. Watching the subadult elephants playfully mud bathing and splashing in the water, even during the hottest part of the day, was a real treat.

The Lagoon Pride — another group comprising three lionesses with six subadults — prowled the riverbanks and took down buffalo on multiple occasions. Additionally, we’ve had a new pride in the area, consisting of two lionesses and seven cubs of different ages. The youngest cubs are less than three months old, while the oldest are over six months.

Cheetah chases and other spotted predators 

Two resident male cheetahs, known for their strong bond and hunting prowess, were a constant presence in the southern part of the Kwando Private Concession. We tracked them numerous times, following their paw prints along the Maheke area. On one occasion, we witnessed several failed chases before locating them the following day, feeding on an impala carcass. These cheetahs are relentless and efficient hunters, often targeting greater kudu and tsessebe. Their movements and success rates made them a fascinating duo to follow.

African wild dog Lagoon Camp

African wild dog sightings were rarer, but we still tracked two different packs. We followed one group of seven wild dogs before locating them resting along Maporota Road. Another sighting involved a pack of six African wild dogs near Upper Kwando, where they chased impalas into the thickets. Later in the month, we tracked this same pack south of the airstrip, finding them in the afternoon resting in the shade of an African ebony tree near Marapo a Thutwa.

The spotted hyenas have been busy, particularly where a dead elephant lay along Makudi Road. We watched eight hyenas take advantage of the free meal, gorging on the remains. Hyenas were also frequently seen during night drives, scouting the area for opportunities. Additionally, a brown hyena was spotted along Pangolin Road during one of our night drives, moving silently in search of its next meal.

Fireflies and night drives

Warm days brought out a variety of insects, including grasshoppers, antlions, and chafer beetles. We also saw plenty of fireflies lighting up the night, their glowing bodies adding to the magic of our evening drives. Nocturnal creatures such as scrub hares and springhares were spotted during night drives, hopping along the roadways. Black-backed and side-striped jackals trotted through the bush in search of food. African civets and small-spotted genets were also active, particularly around Water Affairs Island. The night skies have been breathtaking, with constellations such as Orion, Scorpius, and Libra clearly visible, along with planets like Mars, Saturn, and Venus.

Watching steenboks, the smallest of the antelopes, perform their peculiar behaviour of covering their dung to avoid detection by predators was particularly fascinating. Yellow and slender mongooses were also sighted darting about, adding to the variety of small mammal sightings.

Life is wild along the Kwando River

Nile crocodiles were a common sight along the Kwando River, basking in the sun or swimming just beneath the surface. Water monitor lizards patrolled the riverbanks and were spotted searching for food in the trees.

Giraffes at Lagoon Camp

White-backed and hooded vultures fed on carrion, often joined by marabou storks. We also had regular sightings of ostriches foraging insects and plant material, and red-crested korhaans performed their parachute displays. Guineafowls and red-billed francolins have been busy sifting through elephant dung for undigested seeds. At the same time, birds of prey, such as African fish eagles, bateleurs, tawny eagles, and African hawk eagles, soared through the skies. African wattled cranes, open-billed storks, and goliath herons graced the floodplains.

The water levels in the Kwando River started to drop slightly, but there was still plenty for the wildlife. Cape buffalo and wildebeest were common around the water sources, while semi-aquatic antelopes such as reedbuck, waterbuck, and lechwe grazed on the floodplains. The woodlands dried out, though some trees, like the silver-leafed terminalia and candle-pod terminalia, were already sprouting fresh leaves. This is where we enjoyed sightings of eland, often seen along the Cutline Road, though they were quick to retreat.

 Another fascinating sight was watching a pied kingfisher hover above the remaining waters, ready to dive for fish, and seeing a black heron use its unique umbrella technique to lure fish and insects into its trap. The vegetation around the river remained green and lush, offering excellent grazing and browsing for herbivores. 

Lastly, we closely followed the activity of two subadult leopards — a male and a female — now fending for themselves after their mother was killed by lions from the Holi Pride. Despite the tragedy, these young leopards are proving to be skilled hunters. They frequently took down impalas and warthogs. The female was more comfortable around vehicles, often found sitting on her kills, while the young male was a bit more elusive.

We also spotted a male leopard feeding on a baboon carcass along Riverine Road and a shy leopard near Second Lagoon several times with kills. A more relaxed female and her cub were seen regularly near Water Affairs Island and the northern airstrip. Now around eight months old, these cubs granted us plenty of time to observe them, especially when they were found feeding on a reedbuck carcass along Pangolin Road.

(Please note: For the safety of the animals, we do not disclose the precise location of either rhino or pangolin sightings. Accompanying pictures are from our Kwando Photo Library which consists of all your great photo submissions over the years, it may not be the most up to date, but we felt it was worthy of a feature alongside this month’s Sightings Report!)

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Kwara and Splash Camps, September 2024

As spring melted into summer, the floodplains began to dry, revealing trampled grasslands and making for optimal game viewing.

At Splash Camp, 17 adult African wild dogs and 14 puppies fed on an impala near Sable Island. Another morning, an extraordinary sight unfolded as the pack chased impalas right through the camp, with some dogs sprinting across the main deck! The commotion ended with a successful kill just in front of the office. Unfortunately, two puppies went missing that morning. However, the pack’s resilience was evident as they defended their pups from lions after losing a reedbuck kill near Ngorongoro.

The Kwara pack, consisting of 17 adults and 12 puppies, delivered spectacular moments. Early in September, the pack successfully hunted three impalas in the open plains of Mmoloki Mabala. Over the following week, they established a temporary den near Kevin’s Crossing, where the adults regurgitated food for the young ones after their hunts.

Life-giving rivers and Godikwe Heronry activity

The blooming sausage and camel thorn trees added bursts of colour to the Kwara Private Concession. Mokoro rides from both camps offered serene encounters with water lilies, frogs, and elephants crossing the river.

These waterways attracted herds of buffaloes and elephants, with the latter often seen swimming or applying their signature “mud sunscreen. ” This behaviour helps them regulate their body temperature and protect their skin from the sun. At Kwara, a herd of over 1000 buffaloes was sighted east of camp.

The Godikwe and Xhobega heronries buzzed with activity as yellow-billed and marabou storks, pelicans, and herons nested and bred. Ostriches with chicks were seen near the airstrip, and migratory species like yellow-billed kites and southern carmine bee-eaters, known for their striking red plumage, marked the start of the migration season. Sunset cruises along the channel provided enchanting views of hippos, crocodiles, and vibrant birdlife. Crocodiles basked along the waterways while frogs and insects emerged, signalling the shift in temperatures.

The Big Cats of Kwara: lions, leopards and cheetahs

At Splash, the resident mother leopard and her cub captivated all who saw them. Early in the month, the mother hoisted an impala kill into a tree while her cub hid safely nearby. Later, the duo scavenged from an elephant carcass near camp, highlighting their survival skills. Rratsebe made a notable Splash cameo near Sable Island, satiated from a fresh kill. This dominant male leopard typically stays closer to Kwara Camp, where we found him on a red lechwe kill for two days. A shy female was also observed dragging an impala kill from a tree, and guests were delighted to spot another relaxed male lounging atop a termite mound, the perfect photographic subject.

Leopard at Kwara Camp

The resident lion pride at Kwara —12 females and subadults, accompanied by seven playful cubs — made regular appearances. Early in the month, they were tracked near the Bat-eared Fox Den area, and they eventually settled in the shade after a successful hunt. The coalition of three dominant males was often found nearby, exuding their effortless power on open floodplains. Tension filled the air mid-month when two intruding males feasted on a buffalo carcass at Hippo Pan, surrounded by over 20 hyenas eager for scraps. Meanwhile, the legendary solitary male lion, John Walker, demonstrated his stealth, guarding a warthog kill near Jackal Den.

At Splash, lion drama unfolded with intensity. A pride of three — a subadult male and two lionesses — guarded a waterbuck kill south of camp, fiercely fending off a hyena pack’s attempts to steal their meal. Spotted hyenas frequented Kevin’s Crossing, also scavenging from wild dog kills and creating intense encounters. The scavengers capitalized on two elephant carcasses, performing as nature’s cleanup crew.

Later in September, a territorial clash, a common occurrence among lion prides, saw the Kwara Pride of eight chase off two rival lions in a heart-pounding encounter. Such encounters are crucial to maintaining the pride’s territory and ensuring the safety of its members. Meanwhile, Mma Leitho’s daughter was seen near Waterbuck Pan, carefully nurturing her cubs.

At Splash, a sole male cheetah was located near the Bat-Eared Fox Den after a 30-minute tracking session, and a coalition of two males delivered action-packed moments to guests at Kwara Camp. The brothers were seen several times. They were found feeding on an impala at Gomms Crossing, but their most notable appearance was along the Splash Boat Station road, where they stalked and attempted to catch a warthog. They were unsuccessful as the wind betrayed their presence. Just another challenge after the high density of lions…

Night drives revealed an array of fascinating mammals, including aardwolves, aardvarks, African wild cats, civets, genets, and porcupines.

(Please note: For the safety of the animals, we do not disclose the precise location of either rhino or pangolin sightings. Accompanying pictures are from our Kwando Photo Library which consists of all your great photo submissions over the years, it may not be the most up to date, but we felt it was worthy of a feature alongside this month’s Sightings Report!)

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Tau Pan Camp, September 2024

A small group of three male elephants frequented the Tau Pan waterhole, displaying spectacular behaviour.

Watching these gentle giants mud-bathe and spray themselves from the main deck was entertaining and insightful. Their presence at the waterhole often kept smaller and medium-sized animals at bay, creating a unique relationship as other species patiently waited for their turn to drink.

Smaller mammals provided delightful surprises this month. Near one of the pans, a remarkable sighting was a caracal with a steenbok kill. Honey badgers, bat-eared foxes, ground squirrels, and black-backed jackals were commonly seen around Tau Pan. An African wild cat was observed near the airstrip.

Three brown hyenas visited the camp waterhole on separate occasions, drinking and scanning the area for potential scavenging opportunities. One individual was also observed heading north toward the airstrip, while another rested near Sunday Waterhole.

Sandgrouse flocked to the waterholes, drawing the attention of predatory birds like the pale-chanting goshawk and the Gabar goshawk, often seen diving in to test their luck. Other notable sightings included spotted eagle owls, giant eagle owls, tawny eagles, African harrier hawks, black-chested snake eagles, secretary birds, and greater kestrels. Ostriches were also drawn to the flowering river thorn acacia trees, creating photogenic moments in the golden light of the pans.

The black-maned lions of Tau Pan

September reaffirmed why Tau Pan is genuinely a lion stronghold. The Tau Pan Pride offered consistent sightings as they roamed the camp and surrounding areas. These enormous cats frequently rested in front of rooms, by the swimming pool, or under the star deck. They sometimes even lingered for two or three days around the camp.

One of the ex-dominant males from the pride was observed patrolling the western regions of Tau Pan, seemingly strategizing his return to reclaim dominance from the current leader. This developing power struggle between the old male and the new dominant male remained a fascinating storyline, keeping both guides and guests on the edge of their seats.

Tau Pan Lions

In addition to the resident prides, sightings of new lions added to the excitement. A pride of two consisting of a mother and her subadult male cub (approximately 1.5 years old) was seen moving through the area. Another pride of eight lions was spotted several times, comprising two adult females, three subadult females, and three subadult males (aged around 3.5 years). On one occasion, the pride’s roaring and social interactions reverberated across the pan, creating a magical experience for everyone.

Life among the flowering trees

During one afternoon game drive, a resident female leopard lounged high in a tree on the northern side of camp. In contrast, another female along Aardvark Road demonstrated her stalking prowess as she targeted a common duiker. Though her hunt was unsuccessful, the display of stealth and patience was captivating to watch.

Meanwhile, a shy male leopard was sighted near Passarge Waterhole with a steenbok kill.

A subadult male and female cheetah were seen on the southern side of Tau Pan, both with noticeably full bellies, indicating a recent successful hunt. Tracks of two other cheetahs were found near Passarge Waterhole, leading to the discovery of a kudu carcass they had taken down.

There was an onset of greenery this month. Flowering acacia trees drew in various herbivores, such as springbok, kudu, steenbok, and oryx, often seen feeding on the nutritious pods. The Sunday Waterhole remained a hotspot for wildlife activity, with large numbers of animals congregating to drink. Fresh African wild dog tracks around Letiahau Waterhole, Sunday Waterhole, and Passage Waterhole were identified. Self-drive visitors reported spotting the pack at Sunday Waterhole, while the research team noted sightings near Passarge Waterhole and another pair in the northern region.

Giraffe sightings notably increased compared to August. These gentle giants were frequently seen in areas like Letiahau, Deception Valley, and near the camp waterhole. Guests were thrilled to see them striding gracefully between the trees and water sources.

During nature walks led by an experienced Kalahari Bushman, guests were given a glimpse into the remarkable survival skills and cultural traditions, including how to find water, food, and fire-starting materials in the arid desert landscape.

(Please note: For the safety of the animals, we do not disclose the precise location of either rhino or pangolin sightings. Accompanying pictures are from our Kwando Photo Library which consists of all your great photo submissions over the years, it may not be the most up to date, but we felt it was worthy of a feature alongside this month’s Sightings Report!)

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4 Rivers, August 2024

A pack of seven African wild dogs, denning in the 4 Rivers area, frequently ventured into camp with their five playful puppies in tow and provided guests with intimate viewing opportunities.

However, the Paradise Pack, initially eight strong, suffered a loss, with two puppies falling prey to the abundant lion presence in the area. Meanwhile, the largest pack of the region, 29 strong, roamed southeast of the Kwara Private Concession. With 12 puppies this impressive pack (which denned in the 4 Rivers area last year) continued to thrive, providing thrilling, fast-paced encounters.

Lion cubs at 4 Rivers Camp

Two fiercely protective yet playfully nurturing lionesses introduced their cubs to the resident pride. One mother proudly paraded her three cubs, barely three months old, while another followed with four cubs, a mere two months old. These young ones, clumsily exploring their world, played under the watchful eyes of the adults.

The pride’s dominant males — the notorious Kwara Boys — vigorously defended their territory. Their roars often echoed through the night, announcing their dominance as they responded to the arrival of two new males encroaching from the west. Tensions ran high as these newcomers mated with two lionesses, leaving the Kwara Boys on alert.

Vultures circling high in the sky (a classic aerial sign used for tracking) led us to two dominant male lions feasting on a fresh buffalo kill. Jackals hovered on the outskirts, hoping for scraps, while the male lions devoured their meal. A few days later, a fresh set of footprints along Kazungula Road had us on high alert. After an hour of tracking, we arrived at a zebra kill, barely 30 minutes old, fresh from a hunt.

The spotted species of 4 Rivers

Besides the usual sightings of the mother leopard with her eight-month-old cub, we spotted a big, relaxed male frequently patrolling the western regions near the beacon area. The resident mother leopard and her playful cub were particularly active, their antics adding excitement to our drives. One day, after an hour of careful tracking, we found the mother reclining in a Leadwood tree, her cub playing with a ball of elephant dung. Alarm calls from a side-striped jackal eventually led us to another male leopard, resting regally in a leadwood tree, growling to mark his territory.

One lone male cheetah, a regular around the Paradise area, made dramatic appearances. We witnessed him on a daring attempt to hunt warthogs, only to be chased off by a herd of zebras. But by August 31st, he had his moment of triumph, successfully bringing down an impala along Tsum Tsum-Kazungula Road, a victorious end to the month for this agile predator.

Spotted hyenas were omnipresent this August, with a clan comprising an astounding 17 hyenas waiting patiently for two male lions to finish feasting on a buffalo kill. Evening drives often brought us face to face with a trio of hyenas along the 4 Rivers Camp road, their ghostly forms slipping in and out of the darkness. We tracked down this hyena den north of camp, regularly encountering the adults.

As the August heat deepened and the trees shed their leaves, larger mammals sought refuge in the floodplains. Elephants and buffaloes were particularly prominent, with herds of up to 500 buffaloes moving between camp and the 4 Rivers Lediba. Another group of 300 buffaloes were often seen near Kazungula and Tsum Tsum.

Reptiles remained active, with three large crocodiles frequently spotted in the waterways in front of camp, one of them often basked lazily on a sandbank. Rock monitors were also observed in several locations. Insect life was also abundant, with antlions, baboon spiders, and carpenter bees appearing during our mokoro excursions.

Stargazing, birdwatching, mokoro and more!

Mokoro and walking excursions continued to offer guests intimate, immersive experiences with nature. Whether gliding along the waterways, spotting water birds, or tracking wildlife on foot, these activities provided deeper connections to the Okavango Delta and its rich, vibrant ecosystem. Guests gained insights into the medicinal uses of plants and animal behaviour.

Tent at 4 Rivers Camp

During the day, raptors like African fish eagles, African hawk eagles, bateleurs, and tawny eagles dominated the skies. This month’s highlight was witnessing a fight between a tawny eagle and an African fish eagle over a guinea fowl carcass, with the fish eagle emerging as the victor. Near the airstrip, a pair of martial eagles has been nesting on a dead knob thorn tree, with a chick that’s now nearly a month old. The arrival of early summer migrants like carmine bee-eaters added splashes of colour to the skies, signalling the coming of the warmer months.

The night sky remained just as captivating, with clear views of constellations like the Southern Cross and Scorpio, and planets like Venus, Jupiter, and Mars put on a brilliant show.

(Please note: For the safety of the animals, we do not disclose the precise location of either rhino or pangolin sightings. Accompanying pictures are from our Kwando Photo Library which consists of all your great photo submissions over the years, it may not be the most up to date, but we felt it was worthy of a feature alongside this month’s Sightings Report!)

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Tau Pan Camp, August 2024

Three male elephants frequently visited the camp waterhole, providing guests with memorable moments as they drank and enjoyed mud baths.

Their presence often kept smaller animals at bay, as the waterhole is too small to accommodate all the wildlife at once. This led to interesting interactions as other animals patiently waited for the elephants to finish before taking their turn.

Leopard driven up a tree by lions at the camp waterhole

Leopard sightings were plentiful particularly around the airstrip, waterhole, and near Room 1.

One of the most thrilling encounters unfolded at the waterhole, where a female leopard found herself in a life-or-death situation. In a sudden attack, a lioness forced the leopard to escape by scaling a nearby tree. For 20 tense minutes, she clung to the branches while the lioness prowled below. The eventual loss of interest by the lioness allowed the leopard to make a swift escape toward the safety of Room 9 — an unforgettable moment of predator versus predator.

A shy male was spotted along the main road before the junction leading to Passarge waterhole, while another female was seen south of Sunday waterhole, hunting a steenbok but missing her target. A resident female, seen regularly between the camp and airstrip, was notably full-bellied, hinting at a hidden recent kill.

The blossoming acacia trees transformed Tau Pan this month, attracting a variety of herbivores, including springbok, kudu, steenbok, and oryx. The yellow blossoms stood out against the golden grasses, while the sunsets and sunrises over the dunes created moments of pure magic. The nutritious pods from these acacias were a magnet for these species, especially around the Letiahau area, where game was abundant.

The sand dunes provide stunning vantage points, with the horizon coated in shades of blue and gold. However, a curious absence of giraffes was noted. Despite their usual prevalence at strongholds like Letiahau, Deception Valley, and Sunday waterhole, giraffe sightings were scarce. We suspect they may have migrated to areas with better food sources, as many acacia trees have started to lose their leaves.

Sand grouse flocked to the camp waterhole, closely followed by raptors such as pale-chanting and Gabar goshawks, hoping to catch an unwary bird for a meal. Spotted eagle owls, giant eagle owls, and tawny eagles also graced the skies, along with the powerful secretary bird and great kestrel. Ostriches, drawn to the acacia blossoms, added an extra layer of wonder to the Central Kalahari birding experience.  

A caracal kill and lion activity at Tau Pan

It was a great month for spotting smaller mammals. Honey badgers, bat-eared foxes, and black-backed jackals were frequently seen around Tau Pan, while a rare and thrilling sighting of a caracal with a steenbok kill at Makgoa Pan left guests in awe. Ground squirrels and an African wild cat near the airstrip added to the charm of Tau Pan’s hidden treasures.

Though cheetah sightings were sparse, two subadult cheetahs — a male and female — were spotted on the western side of camp, later moving toward Makgoa Pan. Both appeared well-fed, though the source of their meal remained elusive.

Spotted hyena activity picked up this month, especially in the mornings. Two hyenas were seen drinking at the waterhole on different days, one was spotted near the airstrip heading north, and another was seen resting in Deception Valley.

Tau Pan Camp Lions

The Tau Pan pride, known for its proximity to the lodge, was seen almost daily, except for four days when they were out patrolling elsewhere. One of the standout moments was at Letiahau waterhole, where six lions — two subadult males, a subadult female, an adult female, and two cubs estimated to be around three months old — were spotted feeding on a subadult oryx. Later in the month, a lioness attempted to bring down a kudu and an oryx at Sunday waterhole, although she ultimately missed and gave up the chase.

A particularly intriguing development within the Tau Pan Pride was the introduction of a new dominant male, now in his third month with the pride. His presence has led to speculation about the fate of the previous five dominant males, of which only one remains visible, often seen patrolling the western side of Tau Pan toward San Pan. Interestingly, the new dominant male, accompanied by a subadult male from the San Pan Pride, was seen chasing one of the ex-dominant males away from Tau Pan, indicating potential power shifts within the pride. The drama continued when the same subadult male rejoined the ex-dominant male, and both were seen with the Airstrip pride. The power dynamics within the Tau Pan pride remain unresolved.

The Airstrip pride was sighted four times, mostly around the waterhole and the airstrip area.  

(Please note: For the safety of the animals, we do not disclose the precise location of either rhino or pangolin sightings. Accompanying pictures are from our Kwando Photo Library which consists of all your great photo submissions over the years, it may not be the most up to date, but we felt it was worthy of a feature alongside this month’s Sightings Report!)

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Dinare Camps, August 2024

Our standout moment this month was the sighting of an aardvark, a notoriously difficult animal to spot.

Genets, civets, and the rare aardvark — seen foraging methodically in the early hours — scrub hares, porcupines, and even the mysterious African wild cat were logged during the evening adventures. The night drives, a unique feature of our safari, were also especially productive for hyena sightings, particularly around their den, where we observed the pups growing rapidly. Their eerie whoops echoed through the darkness, and their silhouettes moved stealthily through the floodplains in search of scavenging opportunities.

Spectacular Hunts Across Gomoti Floodplains

A coalition of four cheetah brothers roamed the Gomoti River floodplains. Their proficiency as hunters was on full display as we followed them through several chases (a dance of speed and precision), often ending in successful kills of impala and young red lechwe.

A female cheetah with five cubs was also spotted intermittently, moving between the camps and Moremi Game Reserve. Although not as frequent, sightings of this family were exhilarating, with the cubs learning the art of the hunt from their skilled mother. More recently, another female with four cubs, around six months old, was seen regularly.

Lion Rra Dinare Okavango

The lions were highly active around the river, their roars echoing across the floodplains at night. Tracking them on early morning game drives led to thrilling discoveries of fresh kills and feasting sessions. The mighty Gomoti Pride commanded the August landscape with fierce hunting prowess. A heart-stopping scene unfolded as the pride, led by the indomitable River Boy, took down a buffalo in full view of the safari vehicle. The sheer strength and precision of the hunt left everyone awestruck as the pride worked together to bring down the massive animal.

Adding a touch of tenderness to the excitement, two lionesses from Tee’s Pride were spotted introducing their new cubs to the pride’s territory.

Abundant Wildlife on the Lush Floodplains

The floodwaters transformed the floodplains into lush grazing grounds, attracting an abundance of general game. Elephants, in particular, were a constant presence, with large herds seen bathing, drinking, and socializing along the riverbanks. Buffalos, giraffes, impalas, kudus, and red lechwe were frequently sighted, while the return of roan and sable antelopes thrilled guests eager to spot these rarer species. The open floodplains also drew in herds of warthogs, zebras, and tsessebes.

Our walking safaris allowed guests to immerse themselves in the expertise of Kwando guides as they tracked animals, identified plants, and interpreted the bush’s subtle signs. The high water levels also provided a serene and peaceful opportunity for mokoro excursions, where guests floated through the channels, getting up close to aquatic birds and animals.

Rra Dinare campfire

The resident male leopard, Rra Lebodu, took down a warthog in front of guests. His dominance in the area remains strong as he patrolled his territory near the camps.

A female leopard with two cubs was another regular sighting. The playful antics of the cubs, under the watchful eye of their mother, provided theatrical moments as they practised their stalking skills and engaged in mock hunts. Their mischievous antics provided a charming contrast to their mother’s vigilant demeanour!

Dinare African wild dog den update 

The African wild dog den at Mma Dinare remained a hub of energy and action this month, with 18 adults and 16 playful puppies creating some of the season’s most dynamic and heartwarming sightings. We were treated to intimate observations of the pack’s incredible social structure, particularly the adults’ dedication to their young. One of the most fascinating scenes was following the adults on a hunt and watching them return to the den to regurgitate food for the hungry pups. 

(Please note: For the safety of the animals, we do not disclose the precise location of either rhino or pangolin sightings. Accompanying pictures are from our Kwando Photo Library which consists of all your great photo submissions over the years, it may not be the most up to date, but we felt it was worthy of a feature alongside this month’s Sightings Report!)

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