Author: Kwando Safaris

4 Rivers Camp, December 2024

4 Rivers Camp, December 2024

Published December 31, 2024 by Kwando Safaris

4 Rivers enjoyed exceptional predator sightings, with lions spotted almost daily around the camp and nearby areas.

The main pride consisted of 30 lions, including their cubs, and grew with the birth of new cubs estimated to be just two to three months old. This pride featured three dominant males, along with lionesses, subadults, and various cubs, and were regularly seen both east and west of the camp. The males actively maintained their territory while the females focused on raising their young.

On the 5th, we observed three females and three cubs stalking a fully grown male wildebeest east of the 4 Rivers lagoon. A few days later, we witnessed a rare interaction when a new male lion was seen mating two females who were not typically found in our area.

A few weeks later, the three dominant male lions were seen feeding on a subadult male elephant east of the Paradise area. They were accompanied by a large flock of vultures and black-backed jackals who patiently waited for their turn at the carcass. This classic interaction between a predator and scavenger offered an exciting and dynamic sighting.

The resident female leopard and her son were regularly seen around the camp, especially at night, as they continued their territorial patrols and hunting. On the 9th, we heard vervet monkeys alarm calling, and when we investigated, we saw the mother and her son in the western part of the camp, feeding on a freshly killed impala under the toothbrush trees. These sightings provided incredible close-up views of these intriguing animals and their behaviour.

We also spotted a dominant male cheetah resting by a termite mound, showing clear signs of having eaten earlier that morning.

Two packs of African wild dogs seen at 4 Rivers

African wild dog sightings were slow in early December but increased dramatically by mid-month. We tracked a pack of 27 African wild dogs, including puppies, who were on a serious hunt west of Roan Road. The pack had their sights set on a group of roan antelope, and within minutes, the chaos of the hunt unfolded as they successfully targeted one of the young. After hunting, they rested under the shade of some jackalberry trees, hiding themselves from other predators.

Towards the end of the month, we saw the resident pack of 12 African wild dogs near the camp, feeding on a baby impala. This pack had returned after a brief absence following a heavy downpour, and it was great to see them back in action.

The vast area surrounding the camp is home to many spotted hyenas, and we have observed tracks and sightings almost daily. Spotted hyena activity increased, especially near the den located north of the 4 Rivers airstrip. This den was a highlight for guests, with up to 12 cubs of various ages often seen playing around the area. The adults were also frequently spotted as well, gathering in numbers of 30 or more before heading out to hunt or scavenge. Hearing their calls at night truly enhanced the genuine African experience.

New life after the rains at 4 Rivers

The landscape at 4 Rivers transformed beautifully with the arrival of the rains. Both seasonal and permanent floodplains became lush and green, a stunning backdrop for wildlife sightings, particularly at sunrise and sunset. The abundant greenery made the area even more breathtaking for photographers and nature lovers alike.

Herds of zebras, buffaloes, blue wildebeests, tsessebes and large elephant herds were abundant after the rains, particularly in the plains surrounding the camp.

This month, there was a lot of excitement with the birth of newborns from various antelope species, including impalas, tsessebes, red lechwes, and giraffes, which appeared throughout the month. In addition, small mammals such as jackals, foxes, springhares, and banded mongooses were frequently spotted.

Reptile sightings were frequent, particularly of an enormous Nile crocodile often seen basking in the far corner of the riverbank in front of the main camp, along with water monitor lizards, rock monitor lizards, and leopard tortoises. Additionally, various insects, such as sundowner moths and dung beetles, were commonly seen during our safaris, contributing to the richness of the ecosystem.

The birdlife at 4 Rivers was exceptional, featuring the return of many summer migratory birds. Large flocks of southern carmine bee-eaters were frequently spotted, particularly near the water. Other notable species included broad-billed rollers, yellow-billed kites, and woolly-necked storks. An exciting highlight was when a Western osprey struggled to catch a large catfish from the water, providing interesting bird watching for our guests.

Most days ended with exceptional stargazing, where guests viewed the Milky Way, Orion’s Belt, the Southern Cross, as well as other constellations.

(Please note: For the safety of the animals, we do not disclose the precise location of either rhino or pangolin sightings. Accompanying pictures are from our Kwando Photo Library which consists of all your great photo submissions over the years, it may not be the most up to date, but we felt it was worthy of a feature alongside this month’s Sightings Report!)

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Tau Pan Camp, December 2024

Tau Pan Camp, December 2024

Published December 31, 2024 by Kwando Safaris

There was an uptick in African wild dog sightings compared to previous months; we saw them on several occasions.

The first sighting occurred during breakfast when a kudu herd ran past Tau Pan Camp. After a quick scan, one of our guests spotted an African wild dog. We followed the tracks and found a pack of 17 wild dogs resting in the shade.

On another thrilling day, we were on the trail of lions to the north when we stumbled upon fresh wild dog tracks on the main road. The chase led us to the pack of 17 resting under a tree. Our final sighting was equally exhilarating, as we located a pack of eight African wild dogs drinking at a waterhole during a day trip to Deception Valley.

Brown hyenas and more at the camp waterhole

This month, hyena sightings were also excellent, especially for the elusive brown hyena. We spotted brown hyenas four times, and all sightings occurred early in the morning near the camp waterhole, so we happily watched them during our breakfast.

Another early morning, after meeting at the campfire, we heard alarm calls from kudus. A shy female leopard appeared briefly at the waterhole to drink before retreating into the bush. The second sighting was a female leopard walking along the road north of the camp; she moved off-road after about 17 minutes. Finally, on an afternoon drive to the east, we located a male leopard feeding on a steenbok.

One day, we ventured northeast of camp and came across two black-maned lions, one lioness, and a subadult male lion, all being chased by two other black-maned males. They were heading north toward the airstrip. On December 2nd, we saw a single black-maned lion calling out to the others. Later in the month, one night, we heard lions roaring continuously. The following morning, we traced their calls south of Tau Pan. After following their tracks for about 30 minutes, we located four lionesses and one male lion.

The Green Season unfolds in the Kalahari

December brought a refreshing change to Tau Pan, with the arrival of the rains bringing new life to the landscape. We saw the offspring of springbok, plus common antelope species such as red hartebeest, oryx, common duiker, and kudu were frequently seen.

The weather varied between warm, partly cloudy days and occasional winds, creating a pleasant atmosphere ideal for game viewing and bush activities. The rains revitalized the environment, bringing cooler temperatures, particularly in the mornings and evenings.

With the arrival of the rains, the weather was perfect for Bushman walks, and we conducted more of these walks this month. With the lions moving further away from the camp, we could also explore the area without interruptions. The walks offered a unique opportunity to connect with nature in the heart of Tau Pan’s dynamic landscape. Guests enjoyed observing the growing vegetation and understanding their medicinal properties and could inspect beautiful flowers from close quarters. The once-bare dunes transformed into a lush green landscape, and various plants began to bloom, including trumpet thorns and acacia trees.

Ground squirrels, yellow mongooses, slender mongooses, honey badgers, and caracals were all logged. Birdlife in Tau Pan continued to impress, with a mix of Palearctic and intra-African migrant species arriving in the area. Notable sightings included European golden oriole, kites, falcons, bee-eaters, bustards, shrikes, goshawks, eagles, kestrels, and owls.

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Moremi Crossing Camp, December 2024

Okavango Delta - Moremi Crossing - Leopard

Moremi Crossing Camp, December 2024

Published December 31, 2024 by Kwando Safaris

One of the most exciting events this month was the birth of two cubs by a leopardess at the nearby Gunns Camp, a sighting initially reported by our support staff.

The presence of the cubs has kept the mother close to the area while hunting, leading to more frequent leopard sightings and allowing our guests to observe this beautiful and elusive cat in action.

Guests at the camp have been thrilled by the frequent sightings of Scar Face, a charming solitary male leopard who offers incredible close-up views and fantastic photo opportunities. Meanwhile, the enigmatic Rraboi remains a bit more elusive, choosing to grace us with his presence from the safety of dense vegetation.

We have had some fantastic lion sightings, including a pride of four lions known for their impressive warthog hunting skills. We named this pride Motsibi after the trees under which they commonly drag their kills. They have been seen multiple times throughout the day, as they are not shy about hunting in daylight. Additionally, we regularly observed a female lion with two cubs near the camp. This particular lioness often targets warthogs hiding amongst the Camp buildings. The lion calls at night created a thrilling soundscape, capturing the essence of the quintessential African bush experience.

Cheetah sightings are always a special treat. They require a bit more effort to find due to their preference for open grasslands. We had a few sightings of solitary cheetahs and a coalition of four brothers. Their presence in the area is always a highlight, and the excitement of spotting them in the wild makes for a memorable safari.

Spotted hyena calls are a familiar sound during the night, enhancing the sense of wilderness around camp. Tracks were frequently seen in the morning, and we spotted solitary hyenas on several occasions on our drives. We also observed a larger clan feeding on an animal carcass, underscoring the richness of the food resources in the area.

African wild dog tracks were spotted frequently, keeping everyone on their toes. On one occasion, we stumbled upon a kill where a pack of 12 adults had taken down an impala. While we didn’t see the chase, the sight of the pack feeding was an exciting experience for our guests.

Pula! Rainfall and the changing Okavango landscape

The landscape around Moremi Crossing underwent a beautiful transformation with the arrival of the rains, turning the once dry and dusty plains into a green haven. The trees, including the silver cluster-leaf and mopane, have once again become green and full of life, creating a stunning contrast against the clear blue skies.

The lush vegetation created ideal conditions for herbivores and attracted large herds of wildebeest, zebras, buffalo, and impalas, each occupying their own specific grazing and browsing areas. Common reedbucks were also frequently spotted.

Steenboks and springhares were often spotted darting across the open plains. Side-striped jackals and smaller cats like servals and civets were also seen hunting or foraging in the area. Although these creatures are often overlooked, they play crucial roles in the ecosystem by helping to control populations of smaller prey species and maintaining the natural balance in the region.

We had an exciting sighting of a python near the camp that had just made a kill.

Crocodiles frequently gathered at the waterholes, especially in the dried-up river areas, where a large, dominant one often basked in the sun or waited underwater for prey.

Birdwatching at Moremi Crossing was exceptional, offering our guests numerous opportunities for observation and photography. The iconic African fish eagle, known for its distinctive call, was commonly seen, along with brown snake eagles, hamerkops, and saddle-billed storks, hunting overhead. Colourful little bee-eaters zipped around, while vultures circled above, watching for carcasses.

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Nxai Pan, December 2024

Nxai Pan, December 2024

Published December 31, 2024 by Kwando Safaris

One morning, we came across African wild dog tracks leading us to a kill, where a pack of 12 adults was feeding on an impala.

Lions were frequently sighted throughout December, with the resident pride particularly active with multiple excellent interactions and sightings of them feeding on their kills.

One of the lionesses had two cubs about three months old and remained relatively close to camp, which made sightings easier! On the 5th and 6th, we tracked them to the wildlife waterhole, their bellies full, though we couldn’t confirm what they had killed. On the 10th and 11th, we located the pride northeast of the south camping ground, where two males were seen with full bellies, suggesting yet another successful hunt. On the 20th and 21st, during our morning game drives along the West Road, we observed two males, one of whom was mating with a female from the resident pride. On the 29th, we watched another pride of five lionesses and two cubs on a hunt.

Rains — and zebra — arrive at Nxai Pan during December

The arrival of the rainy season transformed the landscape in Nxai Pan National Park. The trees were lush and green, adorned with blooming flowers, including the striking trumpet thorn. Grasses sprouted in the pan, and the vast plains were covered in tall grass. This lush vegetation attracted herds of wildebeest, zebras, buffaloes, and impalas. Zebra sightings were abundant (especially around Baines’ Baobabs, where large groups grazed on the fresh grasses).

As the rains continued, we noticed the buffalo herds moving to the natural waterholes, and the giraffes were often seen in the area as trees regained their leaves. Springboks and their lambs fed on the nutritious new grass in the pan, sometimes joined by impalas.

Wildlife sightings on the Baines’ Baobabs day trip

Leopard tracks were found on the roads and even within Nxai Pan Camp. Then, on the 22nd, during a day trip to Baines’ Baobabs, we spotted a relaxed female leopard resting in the shade with a noticeably full belly.The iconic salt pans remained a memorable experience for guests when they ventured south towards Baines’ Baobabs, with a distant mirage creating the illusion of water on the horizon. These day trips were particularly rewarding during December. While on our way to the iconic tree, we spotted tracks of brown hyenas. On the 30th, during a drive to Baines’ Baobab, we also encountered a spotted hyena and an aardwolf. It felt like we had experienced the whole Botswana hyena family! The blue wildebeests, another familiar sight, were also seen regularly, plus solitary oryx bulls and breeding herds.

Insect life was buzzing, with cicadas and weevils active in the camp and the surrounding bushes. Cicadas were heard during the day, and their chorus intensified in the afternoon. Dragonflies, like the red-veined dropwing and red basker, were frequently glimpsed above the waterholes, feeding on smaller insects. Ground agamas were also spotted feeding on insects, while leopard tortoises were seen along the Middle Road. Aardwolves were also spotted several times near their den in this area around Middle Road. The pan also featured numerous bat-eared fox dens, with the foxes seen with their young during the denning season.

Butterflies such as the African monarch, scarlet tip, yellow pansy and painted lady added colour to the area. Birdwatching was fantastic, with sightings of grey herons, squacco herons, red-billed teals, western cattle egrets, African open-billed storks, and Egyptian geese. We also observed nesting lappet-faced vultures and white-backed vultures near the road. Summer migrants arrived, including blue-cheeked bee-eaters, lesser grey shrikes, yellow-billed kites, European bee-eaters, red-footed falcons and red-backed shrikes.

Scrub hares were frequently spotted around the camp, grazing on the grasses at night. Although we had limited sightings of spotted hyenas, we often heard their eerie calls while sitting around the campfire. Most nights, we enjoyed the breathtaking views of the stars, as Nxai Pan’s location, with its short trees, provided an excellent vantage point for spotting constellations and planets as they rose. Familiar constellations such as Gemini, Sirius, Procyon, Canopus, Sagittarius, Orion, and the Southern Cross were clearly visible.

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Pom Pom Camp, December 2024

Pom Pom Camp, December 2024

Published December 31, 2024 by Kwando Safaris

As usual, leopards were consistently seen across the Pom Pom Private Concession during our morning and afternoon game drives.

One particular sighting stood out: during a morning drive, we witnessed a leopard stalking an impala. The leopard successfully caught the impala, only to have a spotted hyena steal the kill.

There was a beautifully relaxed young female leopard called Bonolo (meaning the calm one) often seen near to the camp.

We frequently encountered spotted hyenas near large lagoons, where they enjoyed submerging themselves to cool off, providing some great viewing opportunities! We also spied these creatures on our nature walks as they loped through the bush in the distance, and they were also observed near the camp, often passing by during breakfast and dinner.

Birdwatching at Pom Pom was lively, with a mix of summer visitors and local species. Yellow-billed kites, southern carmine bee-eaters, black coucals, woodland kingfishers, broad-billed rollers, and European bee-eaters were just a few of the summer migrants spotted. Along the lagoons and floodplains, we observed grey herons, greater white egrets, yellow-billed egrets, little egrets, slaty egrets, hammerkops, long-toed plovers, blacksmith plovers, marabou storks, and pairs of saddle-billed storks. Large flocks of pelicans and Goliath herons were also seen. Ostriches, southern ground hornbills, wattled cranes, and Pel’s fishing owls — a rare sight in other areas — were regularly spotted in our region. The African fish eagle and pied kingfisher, iconic Delta species, were seen frequently. Additionally, we observed white-backed vultures, lappet-faced vultures, Nile crocodiles, and water monitor lizards along the lagoons.

Lion kills and leopards that steal melas from African wild dogs

We kicked off the month with a pride of two lions resting by the airstrip, followed by another pride of eight lions found relaxing near a termite mound in Rebecca’s Field — part of the Pom Pom Pride. These lions are known to split up and reunite, and we tracked them throughout the month.

On the 30th, we found a lioness with two tiny cubs, just a few weeks old, and their baby blue eyes were only just open. The next day, lucky guests watched her move the cubs to a new den, carrying them in her mouth.

One memorable morning, after the morning drives, we heard the unusual call of a buffalo not far from the camp. We followed up and discovered a pride of eight lions feeding on a male buffalo kill. The lions spent the entire day consuming the buffalo. Another highlight came on the 16th when we spotted a pride of 23 lions in two different locations. Finally, on the 27th, we tracked seven lions as they stalked a warthog. The lions failed to catch the speedy warthog despite their patience and careful approach.

Guests were treated to breathtaking views over the open floodplains, where they could watch wildlife as the sun set. The golden light of the crimson-coloured sunset reflected off the palm trees and lagoons, creating a magical atmosphere.

A wide variety of animals congregated in these floodplains and along the game drive routes. These included impalas, monkeys, baboons, kudus, tsessebe, zebras, wildebeest, hippos, giraffes, and large herds of buffalo. Elephants were also active, showcasing their impressive skills by debarking trees and shaking palm trees to access palm nuts. Waterbucks, common reedbucks, and red lechwe were seen in large numbers, particularly in areas with water. The rare aardvark, which is nocturnal, was also spotted in the area.

Last but not least, there were plenty of remarkable African wild dog sightings, with four different packs observed. We began the month with a pack of 11 wild dogs near Pom Pom Camp, where they had made an impala kill. On the 7th, a pack of two wild dogs was seen hunting and successfully taking down two young impalas. On the 19th, another pack of 19 dogs was located south of the camp, near the Pom Pom airstrip, where they had made a kill of a young warthog. It was captivating to observe how the wild dogs, as the pack hierarchy dictates, allowed the top-ranking dogs to feed first while the lower-ranking members had to wait for leftovers.

A fascinating sighting occurred on the 27th when a pack of seven dogs chased two impalas across the floodplains near Rra Smakaleng Lagoon. During the chase, a female leopard ambushed one of the impala, taking it up a leadwood tree to feed!

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Lagoon Camp, December 2024

Lagoon Camp, December 2024

Published December 31, 2024 by Kwando Safaris

Lagoon’s northern lion pride, Mma Mosetlha, was exceptionally reliable for sightings, with the lactating mother and her cubs frequently spotted along Badisa Road.

The mother moved between several dens; at times, her sister and two subadult males would visit her and the cubs. These cubs, around two to three months old, added a delightful element to the frequent lion sightings. The two males fathering the cubs were seen along the 1st and 2nd Lagoons, often with the rest of the pride. The Northern Pride primarily roamed the north side of the airstrip, avoiding the eastern side, where three dominant males patrolled and marked their territory. These three males were regularly observed performing territorial displays to assert their dominance.

On the eastern side, the Holi Pride hunted around the lagoon and occasionally crossed the water to the islands, where they spent most of their time. Two lionesses from this pride were seen near Giraffe Pan and Grass Pan. On one occasion, we watched them attempting — but ultimately failing — to stalk a group of tsessebe along Ipelegeng Road.

During one game drive, we located a male leopard along Grass Road. We watched him for a few minutes before he vanished into the dense bushes. We also had a fantastic sighting of a female leopard along Diolo Road; she was calm and relaxed, making for a great viewing experience. Additionally, we observed two subadult leopards resting atop a termite mound at Pan Road Pan.

This month, the two resident male cheetahs remained prominent in the area. They were seen mainly on the northern side, especially around Kwena Lagoon and 2nd Lagoon. These successful male hunters, frequently preyed on impalas and newborn tsessebe calves. We regularly tracked their movements as they travelled south before returning north after several days. We also observed these males mating with a female cheetah. Towards the end of the month, we followed their tracks from Pangolin Road and eventually caught up with them on the western side of 2nd Lagoon.

Two dens at Lagoon Camp and exciting spotted hyena sightings

At Lagoon Camp, we’ve had exciting encounters with spotted hyenas with two lively dens nearby!

One den, along Grass Road, was home to about six cute pups from different generations. The other, near the mopane woodland on Maheke Road, boasted nine playful little pups!

During our night drives, we watched spotted hyenas expertly hunting for food and even witnessed a large clan feasting on an elephant carcass at Cheetah Valley. It was amazing to see over ten spotted hyenas sharing a meal.

We also discovered an aardwolf den on the western side of the lagoon, where an industrious aardwolf foraged with her sweet little cubs by her side.

Three packs of African wild dogs roamed the area. The largest pack, numbering 15, was frequently seen hunting impalas and kudus around the 1st Lagoon. This pack often came close to camp, taking refuge in the shade of Kalahari apple-leaf trees. Another pack of 12 wild dogs was regularly spotted on the eastern side of the reserve, and we tracked them on a hunt where they successfully captured a steenbok in under three minutes. The third pack of six wild dogs occasionally moved between the areas, avoiding the larger packs.

Large antelope herds and new life

Large herds of elands and zebras were spotted along Rex Road and Giraffe Pan. We estimated that some of these herds comprised over 200 animals. Elephants, including mothers with calves and large bulls, frequently crossed the water and fed in the marshes. Giraffes and wildebeests were also abundant, with one dramatic sighting of two male giraffes fighting for dominance.

Along the river, we observed semi-aquatic antelopes such as common reedbucks, waterbucks, and red lechwes and aquatic species like hippos and crocodiles at the hippo pool. Black-backed jackals and side-striped jackals were regularly seen. Additionally, the seasonal breeders — impalas, tsessebes, and wildebeests — were observed with their newborn lambs and calves.

We regularly observed an enormous Nile crocodile basking on the far corner of the riverbank in front of camp. We also spotted water monitor lizards, rock monitor lizards, and leopard tortoises. Southern African pythons were seen three times in different locations, including Pangolin Road, Mosima wa Diphiri Road, and between the 1st and 2nd Lagoons.

The clearer nights provided excellent opportunities to view constellations such as Orion, Canis Major, Canis Minor, Taurus, and the visible planets Jupiter and Venus. The rain also brought a welcome relief, filling many of the bigger natural waterholes with water and rejuvenating the landscape.

After the rains, the floodplains were lush, with various grass species, such as couch grass and buffalo grass, that nourished grazers like zebras and wildebeests. Insects also became abundant after the rain, with many flying alates emerging from termite mounds to start new colonies, attracted to the lights around camp.

Sun spiders and scorpions were spotted at night, feeding on fungus-growing termites. We also observed harvester termites, dry wood termites, and the fascinating behaviour of matebele ants feeding on the termites. Various moth species, including hawk moths, were attracted to the lights, and during the day, we saw butterflies such as the painted lady, African monarch, and brown-veined white butterflies.

Walking with nature in the Kwando Private Concession

Our nature walks were a favourite activity for guests, as they allowed for a more intimate engagement with the environment. During these walks, Kwando guides taught guests about animal tracks, insects, and signs of wildlife, such as the mud marks left by elephants and other animals that wallow in mud. We also discussed the medicinal and traditional uses of various plants, including the fireball lily and the giant sensitive plant. These walks gave guests a deeper understanding of the bush in this special corner of Botswana.

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Kwara and Splash Camp, December 2024

Kwara and Splash Camp, December 2024

Published December 31, 2024 by Kwando Safaris

Kwara and Splash teemed with lions and leopards this December.

The Kwara Pride was more mobile as their cubs reached an age where they could cover greater distances. Their movements were primarily observed in the Bat-Eared Fox region. One notable sighting involved three male lions from the pride feeding on a male red lechwe stolen from a coalition of male cheetahs.

Two lactating lionesses, approximately three months post-birth, were also seen alongside them. However, they had not yet introduced their cubs to the rest of the pride. Meanwhile, the Mmaleitho Pride, one female and her two brothers, was active and extended their territory toward Sable Island, while the Kwara Pride roamed the western areas.

The dominant male lions of the Mmaleitho Pride were located after a brief absence; they had successfully killed two buffalo — one cow and one calf — at the aptly named Nare Pan (‘nare’ means buffalo in Setswana). Other prides were also successful in their hunting. We tracked two lionesses to Lechwe Plains, where they fed on an adult zebra. During the month, several other successful kills occurred, including buffalo, red lechwe, and common reedbuck.

What an exciting month for leopard sightings, with several individuals spotted across the region. On the Kwara side, a subadult male was seen walking alone on Kwara Island and crossing the bridges, while Tsebe, the more established male leopard, remained in the area, frequently spotted in trees with kills, such as impalas, reedbuck, and red lechwe. In addition, a resident female leopard, with her 7-month-old cub, continued to hunt successfully.

On the Splash side, to the eastern side of camp, we encountered a shy subadult male leopard quietly moving through the area.

Another highlight was tracking a female leopard with the help of circling tawny and bateleur eagles to a sausage tree, where she had a kill hanging high.

A male leopard south of the camp near Puffy Pan was also spotted, but he was nervous and disappeared quickly into the bushes after a short encounter. A leopard cub, approximately seven months old was located near Giraffe Pan, searching for its mother. After following the cub’s tracks for some time and aided by the alarm call of nearby squirrels, we found the mother resting at the top of a sausage tree.

There were fewer cheetah sightings, but we tracked a coalition of two male brothers in the northern part of Splash Camp, near the old boat station. After tracking them for about 30 minutes, we watched them hunt common reedbuck, but the hunt ended in failure. Another solitary male cheetah was also spotted hunting in the area.

Witnessing the hunts of African wild dogs and scavenging hyenas

On one of the morning game drives, we discovered the tracks of a pack of six African wild dog adults near Springhare City and witnessed them actively hunting impalas near Giraffe Pan. Later in the day, we tracked the same pack to Baboon Island, where they attempted to hunt wildebeest calves but were unsuccessful. Later in the month, a large pack of 26 wild dogs was observed hunting impalas, unsuccessfully, despite multiple chases.

Hyena sightings were frequent, and there was a lot of activity around both camps. We observed six hyenas feeding on an elephant carcass west of Giraffe Pan, surrounded by vultures perched on nearby trees. On the 21st, we saw two hyenas — one adult and one subadult — walking along the road west of Pelican Pan. We also watched four hyenas crossing the grassland, heading towards the waterhole in front of the camp to drink while guests enjoyed their breakfast.

PULA! Rain transformed the landscape

The seasonal rains caused some species to retreat into the bush, but general wildlife sightings were good.

The landscape underwent a beautiful transformation, with the seasonal rainfall changing the area into a green and lush wonderland. The trees filled out, and flowers were bloomed in abundance. The dramatic transformation in the area made the waterholes particularly attractive to wildlife and great for viewing all the smaller game.

Elephants were more dispersed but still observed in smaller herds. There were also good numbers of zebras and wildebeests. Additionally, red lechwe, kudu, and giraffes continued to thrive, while buffalo were seen occasionally.

Among the smaller mammals, we had some exciting sightings this month, including an African wildcat hunting mice, a serval hunting amongst the tall grass and a relaxed large spotted genet on a night drive.

Bird watching at Kwara and Splash was outstanding, with numerous summer migrants. Carmine bee-eaters, white-fronted bee-eaters, and yellow-billed kites were common, along with the occasional black-shouldered kite. We spotted various raptors, including Walburg’s eagles, pink-backed pelicans, and a variety of other eagles and kestrels. Slaty egrets, black herons, and broad-billed rollers added liveliness to the landscape amongst the European rollers and woodland kingfishers. The birdlife around the new bridge at Kwara was particularly busy, with lesser jacanas treading the vegetation in the waterways.

Reptile sightings were consistent throughout the month, with water monitor lizards seen along the waterways near Lechwe Plains. Crocodiles were spotted in their usual habitats, and we also had an exciting encounter with a two-meter-long black mamba near Middle East Pan, basking on top of a blue bush.

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4 Rivers Camp, November 2024

4 Rivers Camp, November 2024

Published November 30, 2024 by Kwando Safaris

Several jackals denned throughout the Kwara Private Concession, and black-backed and side-striped jackal pups emerged from their underground homes during game drives and offered adorable sightings for guests.

A spotted hyena den near the camp also provided consistent sightings of cute cubs.

More soberingly, a female aardwolf with five cubs was spotted near Maboa Island. Tragically, the mother fell victim to a python, which was seen swallowing her near the den as her terrified cubs scattered. This scene reminded us of the harsh realities of life in the wild! Other reptiles, such as boomslang and spotted grass snakes, were also observed.

African wild dog activity in November was phenomenal, with three different packs observed moving in and out of the Kwara Private Concession. A pack of four dogs occupied the Paradise area, while a resident pack of 12 roamed the western side. The largest pack, consisting of 27 dogs, covered a vast hunting range and occasionally ventured into neighbouring territories.

One of the most dramatic sightings involved an encounter between the pack of 27 and the pack of 12. After tracking the larger pack for over an hour near the main crossing, we found them resting with bloodied faces, indicating a recent kill. Suddenly, the pack of 12 approached the same area, triggering a chaotic clash. Both packs engaged in a frenzied chase, accompanied by high-pitched whining and snarling. Despite the confusion, the dogs quickly regrouped with their respective packs, and the larger pack forced the smaller pack to retreat. The victorious pack reclaimed the hunting grounds while their puppies remained safe.

Rains arrive in the Okavango Delta

The arrival of the rains transformed the landscape, creating lush grazing grounds that attracted abundant wildlife. Walking safaris offered close encounters with giraffes, zebras, and impalas. Guests also learned about animal tracks and the unique ecosystems of seasonal pans, which started filling with rain. Leopard tortoises appeared in good numbers after these first showers of the season. Mopane woodlands sprouted new leaves, offering more nourishment for the herbivores. Elephants were less concentrated along the floodplains due to more natural pans in the woodlands, which provided plenty of food and water. However, lone bulls and smaller herds were frequently sighted, particularly in the Paradise area.

A lone male cheetah claimed dominance in the Paradise area and expanded his territory, patrolling as far west as the camp. His movements put him at odds with a coalition of two younger males who frequented the same territory. The two younger cheetahs fled whenever they encountered the dominant male, avoiding direct confrontation.

On the 10th, the coalition of two was spotted near Double Crossing, feeding on a male lechwe they had taken down earlier in the afternoon. That same day, the lone dominant male was found southeast of Paradise, resting on a termite mound with a full belly. His commanding presence ensured the younger cheetahs stayed out of his way.

Herds of buffaloes, numbering in the hundreds, roamed the concession, their dark silhouettes contrasting beautifully against the vibrant green grass. Red lechwes congregated near seasonal floodplains, while zebras and giraffes flourished in the safer areas west of the camp.

Mokoro activities continued throughout November and provided tranquil moments. Sightings of water striders, several frog species, and water plants enhanced the peaceful ambience of the Okavango Delta.

Though, it wasn’t always peaceful.

Leopards and lions and kills aplenty

The resident mother leopard and her male cub captivated our guests. The cub often explored near camp while the mother was out hunting. On the 15th, the mother was spotted stalking a steenbok near Marula Pan, which she skilfully killed. However, her success attracted black-backed jackals, whose loud alarm calls drew the attention of a male lion. The lion appeared from the west and went directly to the kill. Thankfully, the leopard reacted swiftly, dragging her meal up a tree just in time. The lion sniffed the area, eventually locating the base of the tree and gazing up at the leopard. Unable to climb, the lion eventually gave up and walked away. Guests marvelled at this tense encounter and watched as the leopard began feeding on her hard-earned meal.

One of the most thrilling interactions involved a pride of nine subadults taking on a massive herd of over 100 buffaloes. After almost an hour of strategic stalking and relentless effort, they brought down a medium-sized male buffalo. We located another pride of 11 lions east of 4 Rivers Lediba, feasting on a male buffalo carcass.

This dominant pride continued to thrive, with five lionesses nursing cubs, creating exciting and playful sightings for guests. The cubs were often observed chasing each other or practising their hunting skills under the watchful eyes of their mothers.

The three dominant male lions frequently patrolled their territory, ensuring their authority remained unchallenged. One of these males was found feeding on a fresh buffalo kill near Dead Tree Marsh. Over 20 hyenas were spotted scavenging on this carcass. Guests were fascinated by the intense interactions between the scavengers, their eerie whoops filling the air.

We experienced excellent birding with large flocks of yellow-billed storks, marabou storks, and collared pratincoles dominating the skies. African skimmers were frequently seen near the 4 Rivers Lagoon, along with breeding pairs of wattled cranes, slaty egrets, and various geese and ducks.

Vivid sunsets painted the horizon in fiery hues, and lightning illuminated the night sky during occasional thunderstorms. Stargazing was still remarkable, with constellations such as Orion and Venus standing out clearly against the dark backdrop.

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Tau Pan Camp, November 2024

Tau Pan Camp, November 2024

Published November 30, 2024 by Kwando Safaris

The Tau Pan Pride was located on the eastern side of camp, where they enjoyed a meal from an African wild dog kill.

Just as the Tau Pan Pride was feasting on a subadult kudu, a male lion, seemingly out of nowhere, appeared and seized the entire meal for himself, leaving the pride and us in shock.

A caracal came for a drink at the camp waterhole, too. Caracals in the Kalahari have adapted to the arid environment by being highly opportunistic hunters, capable of taking down prey much larger than themselves — including springboks! Their powerful hind legs also allow them to leap over 3 meters into the air to snatch birds in mid-flight.

We tracked a female leopard along Aardvark Road, heading towards the first sand dune near the airstrip. She appeared to be hunting, and the guides carefully observed her movements. As we followed, we noticed a steenbok in her path. The prey spotted the predator and fled, causing the leopard to abandon the hunt.

Two shy male cheetahs rested in the shade at the Leitahau waterhole. They appeared to be trying to stay cool in the afternoon heat, avoiding hunting due to the warm temperatures. Later that same day, we spotted a female cheetah by the Passarge Waterhole. She was also resting and staying close to the water to cool off.

What is the Little Five?

Around camp, we noticed a new beetle species, the Dynastine scarab beetle, also known as the rhino beetle and a member of the Little Five.

The Little Five plays on the Big Five (rhino, elephant, lion, buffalo and leopard) and showcases the continent’s smaller but equally remarkable creatures.

This group includes the rhino beetle, an impressively strong insect with horn-like features; the antlion, a masterful sand-trap hunter in its larval stage; the elephant shrew, a tiny, quick-footed insectivore; the buffalo weaver, a social bird known for its messy nests and our next sighting, the leopard tortoise, named for its patterned shell. We saw a few leopard tortoises, which sought shade under trees to stay cool.

Other insect sightings included ground beetles, whirligigs, and water scorpions.

Ground squirrels, giraffes and amazing lion encounters

Ground squirrels were a regular presence, and their warning calls alerted us to the presence of a raptor. Suddenly, the squirrels scurried into their burrows to avoid becoming prey. A pale chanting goshawk caught a dove. However, a thorn hooked the dove, and another raptor of the same species swooped in to take it.

Although the rainfall was low this year, some greenish shoots started to appear, signalling the beginning of the rainy season. The grass remained short, but camelthorn trees, various albizia and the brandy bush remain green.

With the recent rains, many animals dispersed to areas with greener vegetation, leaving fewer animals in our immediate area. However, we still observed solitary gemsbok, springboks, wildebeests, steenboks, common duikers, and smaller animals like yellow mongooses, slender mongooses, bat-eared foxes, and jackals. Giraffes, in particular, moved further out of the area, making sightings of these majestic creatures even more special.

Lions also shifted their movements, as there was less activity around the waterhole. However, at the end of the month, we observed two female lions from the pride during a bush walk. When they spotted us, we calmly walked away, and they took cover, leaving us with a brief but memorable encounter. During this walk, guests learned about traditional survival skills, such as where to find food, how to make fire with matchsticks, and other essential life skills in the bush. For example, identifying moisture-rich desert plants like kambro, Kalahari water tuber and morning glory. These plants provide sustenance for animals during the drier months, and with more rain, Tau Pan could see an abundance of tsama melon, which has been scarce since 2015.

On clear nights, we viewed brilliant constellations like Canis Major, Orion’s Belt, Canis Minor, Taurus the Bull, and the Seven Sisters. The star Sirius, visible in Canis Major, and the planets Venus and Jupiter were particularly stunning.

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Moremi Crossing Camp, November 2024

Moremi Crossing Camp - Aerial - Boro River

Moremi Crossing Camp, November 2024

Published November 30, 2024 by Kwando Safaris

In Gunn’s Private Concession, we noticed an encouraging increase in wildlife.

Large herds of elephants, buffaloes, blue wildebeests, and tsessebes regularly filled the plains with their impressive displays. Troops of baboons were also a wonderful sight, moving through the area with their distinct chatter and lively interactions.

This year, the flood arrived late — about two months behind its usual schedule — and was less intense than previous years. It lasted only three months before evaporation, exposing the white river sand as the waters dried up. Despite the parched flood plains, November provided fantastic animal sightings. The hippos, mainly affected by the reduction in water levels, were left stranded in small pools where their backs were barely submerged. Some managed to find their way to the small pond nearby, which had water for the animals to drink. This pond became a crucial gathering spot for birds and animals, offering them much-needed relief as they quenched their thirst in the increasingly dry conditions.
Thankfully, the rainy season officially began, though it appeared as sparse as in previous years, with heat waves continuing to sweep across the country.

The clarity of the night sky and the serenity of the surroundings made for an unforgettable stargazing experience. Guests who gazed up saw the famous Southern Cross constellation, along with Orion, the Coal Sack and Alpha and Beta Centauri.

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