Author: Kwando Safaris

4 Rivers Camp, September 2024

4 Rivers Camp, September 2024

Published September 30, 2024 by Kwando Safaris

September brought unforgettable sightings of a pride of 24 lions near the Kazungula area. This considerable pride was frequently spotted in an unusual display where several lionesses perched in trees, attempting to escape relentless flies.

Two mothers are currently lactating within this pride. One lioness has three cubs around five months old, while the other has four cubs approximately four months old. These cubs have already been introduced to the rest of the pride, making for some touching scenes of interaction.

African wild dogs on the hunt

Two African wild dog packs dominated sightings this month. A smaller pack of 12, including seven adults and five puppies, roamed near 4 Rivers Camp, thrilling guests when they brought down a kudu in front of Room 1.

4 Rivers Wild dog taken by Ruedi — Image taken by Ruedi

The larger pack of 28, with 16 adults and 12 puppies, delivered breathtaking action as they skillfully hunted and killed a wildebeest near Kazungula Road.

Leopard kills and clean-up crews

We tracked a large male leopard near Baboon Island as it stalked a group of blissfully ignorant impalas. The hunt ended without a kill but nevertheless left spectators spellbound. Elsewhere, a female leopard and her nine-month-old cub showcased their hunting prowess, feeding on a red lechwe carcass near Sedudu Island before successfully taking down a common reedbuck the next day.

The highlight came west of camp at the JD Spillway, where an unusual interaction between a mother leopard, her cub, and a large male unfolded over an impala kill. The male, presumably her sibling from several years ago, was noticeably uneasy in the company of the others, highlighting the complex dynamics of leopard family life.

4 Rivers Camp Leopard — Image taken by Ruedi

Speaking of family. On 17 September, excitement peaked when the 24-strong lion pride was spotted feasting on a buffalo carcass along Fishing Spot Road. Later, we observed a dramatic confrontation as three dominant males, aged seven to nine years, chased away two subadult males. Though born from the same pride, these young lions are now being pushed out to prevent inbreeding. It’s a tough but natural rite of passage.

Hyenas played their role as the bush clean-up crew and were frequently spotted scavenging along Mokoro Road. They feasted on an elephant carcass and were glimpsed near the staff village as they roamed about at night. Their cackling calls and efficient scavenging habits were a great reminder of their vital ecological role.

Cheetah tracks and reptilian encounters

The golden grasses of the dry season painted a striking contrast against the vibrant blue skies. The barren terrain offered exceptional visibility for game viewing. The diversity of Botswana’s bush during the dry season was on full display, with elephants, buffalo, and zebras frequently spotted alongside wildebeest, kudu, reedbuck, baboons, red lechwe and more.

Smaller mammals added charm to September’s wildlife tableau, from springhares bounding across the plains to fruit bats hanging about the trees in the main area. Lesser bushbabies dazzled guests on evening drives, while the sight of steenboks delighted daytime explorers. One particularly memorable moment featured elephants and warthogs enjoying a mud bath west of the helipad, where we also found an African rock python slithering toward the water on another game drive.

Guests learned about animal tracks and medicinal plants on foot, while mokoro rides provided a serene exploration of the water channels.

Although cheetah sightings were less frequent this month, we did pick up several sets of tracks in the Tsum Tsum area, keeping us hopeful for future encounters.

Crocodiles were ever-present along the channels, basking in the sun, mouths agape, regulating their body temperature — a behaviour that never fails to intrigue.

A September sky full of stars

The Scorpius constellation and the bright planet Venus adorned our September skies, offering perfect conditions for stargazing. Guests marvelled at the heavens from around the campfire, deepening their connection with the bush’s timeless rhythms.

(Please note: For the safety of the animals, we do not disclose the precise location of either rhino or pangolin sightings. Accompanying pictures are from our Kwando Photo Library which consists of all your great photo submissions over the years, it may not be the most up to date, but we felt it was worthy of a feature alongside this month’s Sightings Report!)

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Dinare Camps, September 2024

Dinare Camps, September 2024

Published September 30, 2024 by Kwando Safaris

Caracal were reported three times this month. One relaxed individual was observed along Impala Road, while another shy caracal was seen drinking at a waterhole.

This month also delivered an adrenaline-fueled spectacle. Kwando guides tracked the famed four cheetah brothers through dense mopane woodland to Roan’s Pan.

After a suspenseful 40-minute pursuit, the brothers were spotted in hunting mode. Their initial target, a dazzle of zebras, evaded them, but the action didn’t end there. A sudden burst of speed turned the tide as the brothers chased down and captured a common duiker, leaving guests in awe of astonishing agility. These four brothers continued to dominate the area, marking territory and showcasing their remarkable teamwork.

Another consistent highlight was a mother cheetah with her four cubs, now around four months old. Once shy, the cubs have grown bolder, and guests were treated to a spectacular moment when the mother took down a fully grown kudu. She later dragged the massive carcass into the shade, allowing her cubs to feast.

Four lion prides, four tiny cubs, and two elephant kills

At Rra Dinare, Tee’s pride made an epic return after months of absence. Their formidable presence was felt across the Dinare Private Reserve. Led by a single male, the pride of five lionesses and seven older cubs took down two young elephants within days. One memorable morning, they were discovered blood-stained and feasting on a subadult elephant carcass. Four days later, they had taken down another young elephant with the pride swarming the prey in under 30 minutes. Meanwhile, the territorial Gomoti Boys continued to assert their dominance, showing guests the complex lives of lions with their overlapping territories and pride dynamics.

Rra Dinare Lion — Image taken by KA Pride

Over at Mma Dinare, the resident lion pride delighted guests with the debut of four tiny cubs, just a few weeks old.

These vulnerable additions brought tender moments to the harsh wilderness, while their mothers and the pride’s three dominant males showcased their strength and unity by hunting in the Paradise Grasslands. Meanwhile, the Batshabi Pride solidified their reputation as buffalo specialists with multiple successful hunts throughout the month.

Spotted hyenas were often seen scavenging from lion and cheetah kills. At Mma Dinare, guests frequently visited an active hyena den near the camp, where pups played under the watchful eyes of the adults. At Rra Dinare, Kwando guides tracked some intriguing drag marks for over an hour, eventually locating a secretive new den where eight hyena cubs were observed outside with adults.

A growing pack of African wild dogs and lots of leopards

At Mma Dinare, a massive pack of 32 wild dogs, including 15 playful puppies, was spotted near camp. Guests were captivated by the interactions between the adults and puppies, especially as the pack returned from hunts to regurgitate food for the young ones

At Rra Dinare, wild dog tracking became an adventure. One sighting involved nearly two hours of following tracks before the dogs were found playfully interacting near their temporary den. The pack’s hierarchy was shifting, with a younger subordinate male stepping into leadership roles as an ageing alpha male started to take a backseat.

Rra Dinare Leopard — Image taken by KA Pride

At Mma Dinare, a large male leopard was frequently seen with impala kills hoisted high in the trees. Rralebodu, the dominant male, continued to assert his dominance, mating with multiple females and successfully hunting warthogs, dragging one up a tree.

On one occasion, we followed alarm calls from birds and impalas, which led to the discovery of a leopard cub. While searching for the cub, the guides stumbled upon its mother, also with a fresh kill – a phenomenal double sighting!

At Rra Dinare, an extraordinary interaction unfolded between a female leopard and an intruder near her kill, which was secured up a raintree. The two leopards engaged in a tense standoff, vocalizing and salivating but avoiding physical confrontation.

Great game – day and night!

The dry, dusty plains were softened by the blooming sausage trees. Their red flowers lured baboons and impalas to their shade while giraffes eagerly awaited the ripening pods.

Although receding, the Gomoti River still allowed for short mokoro trips, during which guests enjoyed tranquil encounters with frogs, water lilies, and aquatic birds. The surrounding grasslands teemed with life. Elephants, giraffes, kudus, zebras, and buffalo herds moved in harmony with red lechwes and reedbucks, while roan sable antelopes took up residence in the woodlands nearest the river. Hippos and crocodiles ruled the waterways.

The arrival of summer migrants enriched the birdlife. Carmine and European bee-eaters dazzled with their vibrant colours while the haunting call of the African fish eagle echoed along the Gomoti River. Yellow-billed kites, yellow-billed storks, and various other species were frequently seen, offering spectacular birding opportunities.

Guided bush walks provided guests with a deeper connection to the wilderness, focusing on animal tracks, plants, and smaller creatures.

Night drives revealed honey badgers, porcupines, servals, civets, genets, and bat-eared foxes.

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Lagoon Camp, September 2024

Lagoon Camp, September 2024

Published September 30, 2024 by Kwando Safaris

There was lots of action among the different Lagoon Camp prides. One unforgettable sighting occurred when we found the Holi Pride feasting on a dead elephant along Makudi Road. It appeared that the elephant, an old bull, had died of natural causes, and the pride wasted no time taking advantage of the meal.

The Holi Pride actively hunted along the marshes near the main road and had successful hunts, mainly targeting warthogs and wildebeest. Toward the end of the month, the lions moved north, near the airstrip, expanding their range.

The three resident male lions, the Golden Boys, dominated the Second Lagoon and Kwena Lagoon areas. We spotted them at Rakgolo Road feeding on an elephant calf they had taken down the night before, spending two days devouring their kill. Another pride, the Mmamosetlha Pride, consisting of four lionesses, has successfully hunted warthogs and sometimes joined forces with the Golden Boys.

Large herds of elephants, often accompanied by tiny calves, came to the river in the early morning and late afternoon to avoid the midday heat. Watching the subadult elephants playfully mud bathing and splashing in the water, even during the hottest part of the day, was a real treat.

The Lagoon Pride — another group comprising three lionesses with six subadults — prowled the riverbanks and took down buffalo on multiple occasions. Additionally, we’ve had a new pride in the area, consisting of two lionesses and seven cubs of different ages. The youngest cubs are less than three months old, while the oldest are over six months.

Cheetah chases and other spotted predators

Two resident male cheetahs, known for their strong bond and hunting prowess, were a constant presence in the southern part of the Kwando Private Concession. We tracked them numerous times, following their paw prints along the Maheke area. On one occasion, we witnessed several failed chases before locating them the following day, feeding on an impala carcass. These cheetahs are relentless and efficient hunters, often targeting greater kudu and tsessebe. Their movements and success rates made them a fascinating duo to follow.

African wild dog sightings were rarer, but we still tracked two different packs. We followed one group of seven wild dogs before locating them resting along Maporota Road. Another sighting involved a pack of six African wild dogs near Upper Kwando, where they chased impalas into the thickets. Later in the month, we tracked this same pack south of the airstrip, finding them in the afternoon resting in the shade of an African ebony tree near Marapo a Thutwa.

The spotted hyenas have been busy, particularly where a dead elephant lay along Makudi Road. We watched eight hyenas take advantage of the free meal, gorging on the remains. Hyenas were also frequently seen during night drives, scouting the area for opportunities. Additionally, a brown hyena was spotted along Pangolin Road during one of our night drives, moving silently in search of its next meal.

Fireflies and night drives

Warm days brought out a variety of insects, including grasshoppers, antlions, and chafer beetles. We also saw plenty of fireflies lighting up the night, their glowing bodies adding to the magic of our evening drives. Nocturnal creatures such as scrub hares and springhares were spotted during night drives, hopping along the roadways. Black-backed and side-striped jackals trotted through the bush in search of food. African civets and small-spotted genets were also active, particularly around Water Affairs Island. The night skies have been breathtaking, with constellations such as Orion, Scorpius, and Libra clearly visible, along with planets like Mars, Saturn, and Venus.

Watching steenboks, the smallest of the antelopes, perform their peculiar behaviour of covering their dung to avoid detection by predators was particularly fascinating. Yellow and slender mongooses were also sighted darting about, adding to the variety of small mammal sightings.

Life is wild along the Kwando River

Nile crocodiles were a common sight along the Kwando River, basking in the sun or swimming just beneath the surface. Water monitor lizards patrolled the riverbanks and were spotted searching for food in the trees.

White-backed and hooded vultures fed on carrion, often joined by marabou storks. We also had regular sightings of ostriches foraging insects and plant material, and red-crested korhaans performed their parachute displays. Guineafowls and red-billed francolins have been busy sifting through elephant dung for undigested seeds. At the same time, birds of prey, such as African fish eagles, bateleurs, tawny eagles, and African hawk eagles, soared through the skies. African wattled cranes, open-billed storks, and goliath herons graced the floodplains.

The water levels in the Kwando River started to drop slightly, but there was still plenty for the wildlife. Cape buffalo and wildebeest were common around the water sources, while semi-aquatic antelopes such as reedbuck, waterbuck, and lechwe grazed on the floodplains. The woodlands dried out, though some trees, like the silver-leafed terminalia and candle-pod terminalia, were already sprouting fresh leaves. This is where we enjoyed sightings of eland, often seen along the Cutline Road, though they were quick to retreat.

Another fascinating sight was watching a pied kingfisher hover above the remaining waters, ready to dive for fish, and seeing a black heron use its unique umbrella technique to lure fish and insects into its trap. The vegetation around the river remained green and lush, offering excellent grazing and browsing for herbivores.

Lastly, we closely followed the activity of two subadult leopards — a male and a female — now fending for themselves after their mother was killed by lions from the Holi Pride. Despite the tragedy, these young leopards are proving to be skilled hunters. They frequently took down impalas and warthogs. The female was more comfortable around vehicles, often found sitting on her kills, while the young male was a bit more elusive.

We also spotted a male leopard feeding on a baboon carcass along Riverine Road and a shy leopard near Second Lagoon several times with kills. A more relaxed female and her cub were seen regularly near Water Affairs Island and the northern airstrip. Now around eight months old, these cubs granted us plenty of time to observe them, especially when they were found feeding on a reedbuck carcass along Pangolin Road.

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Kwara and Splash Camps, September 2024

Kwara and Splash Camps, September 2024

Published September 30, 2024 by Kwando Safaris

As spring melted into summer, the floodplains began to dry, revealing trampled grasslands and making for optimal game viewing.

At Splash Camp, 17 adult African wild dogs and 14 puppies fed on an impala near Sable Island. Another morning, an extraordinary sight unfolded as the pack chased impalas right through the camp, with some dogs sprinting across the main deck! The commotion ended with a successful kill just in front of the office. Unfortunately, two puppies went missing that morning. However, the pack’s resilience was evident as they defended their pups from lions after losing a reedbuck kill near Ngorongoro.

The Kwara pack, consisting of 17 adults and 12 puppies, delivered spectacular moments. Early in September, the pack successfully hunted three impalas in the open plains of Mmoloki Mabala. Over the following week, they established a temporary den near Kevin’s Crossing, where the adults regurgitated food for the young ones after their hunts.

Life-giving rivers and Godikwe Heronry activity

The blooming sausage and camel thorn trees added bursts of colour to the Kwara Private Concession. Mokoro rides from both camps offered serene encounters with water lilies, frogs, and elephants crossing the river.

These waterways attracted herds of buffaloes and elephants, with the latter often seen swimming or applying their signature “mud sunscreen. ” This behaviour helps them regulate their body temperature and protect their skin from the sun. At Kwara, a herd of over 1000 buffaloes was sighted east of camp.

The Godikwe and Xhobega heronries buzzed with activity as yellow-billed and marabou storks, pelicans, and herons nested and bred. Ostriches with chicks were seen near the airstrip, and migratory species like yellow-billed kites and southern carmine bee-eaters, known for their striking red plumage, marked the start of the migration season. Sunset cruises along the channel provided enchanting views of hippos, crocodiles, and vibrant birdlife. Crocodiles basked along the waterways while frogs and insects emerged, signalling the shift in temperatures.

The Big Cats of Kwara: lions, leopards and cheetahs

At Splash, the resident mother leopard and her cub captivated all who saw them. Early in the month, the mother hoisted an impala kill into a tree while her cub hid safely nearby. Later, the duo scavenged from an elephant carcass near camp, highlighting their survival skills. Rratsebe made a notable Splash cameo near Sable Island, satiated from a fresh kill. This dominant male leopard typically stays closer to Kwara Camp, where we found him on a red lechwe kill for two days. A shy female was also observed dragging an impala kill from a tree, and guests were delighted to spot another relaxed male lounging atop a termite mound, the perfect photographic subject.

The resident lion pride at Kwara —12 females and subadults, accompanied by seven playful cubs — made regular appearances. Early in the month, they were tracked near the Bat-eared Fox Den area, and they eventually settled in the shade after a successful hunt. The coalition of three dominant males was often found nearby, exuding their effortless power on open floodplains. Tension filled the air mid-month when two intruding males feasted on a buffalo carcass at Hippo Pan, surrounded by over 20 hyenas eager for scraps. Meanwhile, the legendary solitary male lion, John Walker, demonstrated his stealth, guarding a warthog kill near Jackal Den.

At Splash, lion drama unfolded with intensity. A pride of three — a subadult male and two lionesses — guarded a waterbuck kill south of camp, fiercely fending off a hyena pack’s attempts to steal their meal. Spotted hyenas frequented Kevin’s Crossing, also scavenging from wild dog kills and creating intense encounters. The scavengers capitalized on two elephant carcasses, performing as nature’s cleanup crew.

Later in September, a territorial clash, a common occurrence among lion prides, saw the Kwara Pride of eight chase off two rival lions in a heart-pounding encounter. Such encounters are crucial to maintaining the pride’s territory and ensuring the safety of its members. Meanwhile, Mma Leitho’s daughter was seen near Waterbuck Pan, carefully nurturing her cubs.

At Splash, a sole male cheetah was located near the Bat-Eared Fox Den after a 30-minute tracking session, and a coalition of two males delivered action-packed moments to guests at Kwara Camp. The brothers were seen several times. They were found feeding on an impala at Gomms Crossing, but their most notable appearance was along the Splash Boat Station road, where they stalked and attempted to catch a warthog. They were unsuccessful as the wind betrayed their presence. Just another challenge after the high density of lions…

Night drives revealed an array of fascinating mammals, including aardwolves, aardvarks, African wild cats, civets, genets, and porcupines.

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4 Rivers, August 2024

4 Rivers, August 2024

Published August 31, 2024 by Kwando Safaris

A pack of seven African wild dogs, denning in the 4 Rivers area, frequently ventured into camp with their five playful puppies in tow and provided guests with intimate viewing opportunities.

However, the Paradise Pack, initially eight strong, suffered a loss, with two puppies falling prey to the abundant lion presence in the area. Meanwhile, the largest pack of the region, 29 strong, roamed southeast of the Kwara Private Concession. With 12 puppies this impressive pack (which denned in the 4 Rivers area last year) continued to thrive, providing thrilling, fast-paced encounters.

Lion cubs at 4 Rivers Camp

Two fiercely protective yet playfully nurturing lionesses introduced their cubs to the resident pride. One mother proudly paraded her three cubs, barely three months old, while another followed with four cubs, a mere two months old. These young ones, clumsily exploring their world, played under the watchful eyes of the adults.

The pride’s dominant males — the notorious Kwara Boys — vigorously defended their territory. Their roars often echoed through the night, announcing their dominance as they responded to the arrival of two new males encroaching from the west. Tensions ran high as these newcomers mated with two lionesses, leaving the Kwara Boys on alert.

Vultures circling high in the sky (a classic aerial sign used for tracking) led us to two dominant male lions feasting on a fresh buffalo kill. Jackals hovered on the outskirts, hoping for scraps, while the male lions devoured their meal. A few days later, a fresh set of footprints along Kazungula Road had us on high alert. After an hour of tracking, we arrived at a zebra kill, barely 30 minutes old, fresh from a hunt.

The spotted species of 4 Rivers

Besides the usual sightings of the mother leopard with her eight-month-old cub, we spotted a big, relaxed male frequently patrolling the western regions near the beacon area. The resident mother leopard and her playful cub were particularly active, their antics adding excitement to our drives. One day, after an hour of careful tracking, we found the mother reclining in a Leadwood tree, her cub playing with a ball of elephant dung. Alarm calls from a side-striped jackal eventually led us to another male leopard, resting regally in a leadwood tree, growling to mark his territory.

One lone male cheetah, a regular around the Paradise area, made dramatic appearances. We witnessed him on a daring attempt to hunt warthogs, only to be chased off by a herd of zebras. But by August 31st, he had his moment of triumph, successfully bringing down an impala along Tsum Tsum-Kazungula Road, a victorious end to the month for this agile predator.

Spotted hyenas were omnipresent this August, with a clan comprising an astounding 17 hyenas waiting patiently for two male lions to finish feasting on a buffalo kill. Evening drives often brought us face to face with a trio of hyenas along the 4 Rivers Camp road, their ghostly forms slipping in and out of the darkness. We tracked down this hyena den north of camp, regularly encountering the adults.

As the August heat deepened and the trees shed their leaves, larger mammals sought refuge in the floodplains. Elephants and buffaloes were particularly prominent, with herds of up to 500 buffaloes moving between camp and the 4 Rivers Lediba. Another group of 300 buffaloes were often seen near Kazungula and Tsum Tsum.

Reptiles remained active, with three large crocodiles frequently spotted in the waterways in front of camp, one of them often basked lazily on a sandbank. Rock monitors were also observed in several locations. Insect life was also abundant, with antlions, baboon spiders, and carpenter bees appearing during our mokoro excursions.

Stargazing, birdwatching, mokoro and more!

Mokoro and walking excursions continued to offer guests intimate, immersive experiences with nature. Whether gliding along the waterways, spotting water birds, or tracking wildlife on foot, these activities provided deeper connections to the Okavango Delta and its rich, vibrant ecosystem. Guests gained insights into the medicinal uses of plants and animal behaviour.

During the day, raptors like African fish eagles, African hawk eagles, bateleurs, and tawny eagles dominated the skies. This month’s highlight was witnessing a fight between a tawny eagle and an African fish eagle over a guinea fowl carcass, with the fish eagle emerging as the victor. Near the airstrip, a pair of martial eagles has been nesting on a dead knob thorn tree, with a chick that’s now nearly a month old. The arrival of early summer migrants like carmine bee-eaters added splashes of colour to the skies, signalling the coming of the warmer months.

The night sky remained just as captivating, with clear views of constellations like the Southern Cross and Scorpio, and planets like Venus, Jupiter, and Mars put on a brilliant show.

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Tau Pan Camp, August 2024

Tau Pan Camp, August 2024

Published August 31, 2024 by Kwando Safaris

Three male elephants frequently visited the camp waterhole, providing guests with memorable moments as they drank and enjoyed mud baths.

Their presence often kept smaller animals at bay, as the waterhole is too small to accommodate all the wildlife at once. This led to interesting interactions as other animals patiently waited for the elephants to finish before taking their turn.

Leopard driven up a tree by lions at the camp waterhole

Leopard sightings were plentiful particularly around the airstrip, waterhole, and near Room 1.

One of the most thrilling encounters unfolded at the waterhole, where a female leopard found herself in a life-or-death situation. In a sudden attack, a lioness forced the leopard to escape by scaling a nearby tree. For 20 tense minutes, she clung to the branches while the lioness prowled below. The eventual loss of interest by the lioness allowed the leopard to make a swift escape toward the safety of Room 9 — an unforgettable moment of predator versus predator.

A shy male was spotted along the main road before the junction leading to Passarge waterhole, while another female was seen south of Sunday waterhole, hunting a steenbok but missing her target. A resident female, seen regularly between the camp and airstrip, was notably full-bellied, hinting at a hidden recent kill.

The blossoming acacia trees transformed Tau Pan this month, attracting a variety of herbivores, including springbok, kudu, steenbok, and oryx. The yellow blossoms stood out against the golden grasses, while the sunsets and sunrises over the dunes created moments of pure magic. The nutritious pods from these acacias were a magnet for these species, especially around the Letiahau area, where game was abundant.

The sand dunes provide stunning vantage points, with the horizon coated in shades of blue and gold. However, a curious absence of giraffes was noted. Despite their usual prevalence at strongholds like Letiahau, Deception Valley, and Sunday waterhole, giraffe sightings were scarce. We suspect they may have migrated to areas with better food sources, as many acacia trees have started to lose their leaves.

Sand grouse flocked to the camp waterhole, closely followed by raptors such as pale-chanting and Gabar goshawks, hoping to catch an unwary bird for a meal. Spotted eagle owls, giant eagle owls, and tawny eagles also graced the skies, along with the powerful secretary bird and great kestrel. Ostriches, drawn to the acacia blossoms, added an extra layer of wonder to the Central Kalahari birding experience.

A caracal kill and lion activity at Tau Pan

It was a great month for spotting smaller mammals. Honey badgers, bat-eared foxes, and black-backed jackals were frequently seen around Tau Pan, while a rare and thrilling sighting of a caracal with a steenbok kill at Makgoa Pan left guests in awe. Ground squirrels and an African wild cat near the airstrip added to the charm of Tau Pan’s hidden treasures.

Though cheetah sightings were sparse, two subadult cheetahs — a male and female — were spotted on the western side of camp, later moving toward Makgoa Pan. Both appeared well-fed, though the source of their meal remained elusive.

Spotted hyena activity picked up this month, especially in the mornings. Two hyenas were seen drinking at the waterhole on different days, one was spotted near the airstrip heading north, and another was seen resting in Deception Valley.

The Tau Pan pride, known for its proximity to the lodge, was seen almost daily, except for four days when they were out patrolling elsewhere. One of the standout moments was at Letiahau waterhole, where six lions — two subadult males, a subadult female, an adult female, and two cubs estimated to be around three months old — were spotted feeding on a subadult oryx. Later in the month, a lioness attempted to bring down a kudu and an oryx at Sunday waterhole, although she ultimately missed and gave up the chase.

A particularly intriguing development within the Tau Pan Pride was the introduction of a new dominant male, now in his third month with the pride. His presence has led to speculation about the fate of the previous five dominant males, of which only one remains visible, often seen patrolling the western side of Tau Pan toward San Pan. Interestingly, the new dominant male, accompanied by a subadult male from the San Pan Pride, was seen chasing one of the ex-dominant males away from Tau Pan, indicating potential power shifts within the pride. The drama continued when the same subadult male rejoined the ex-dominant male, and both were seen with the Airstrip pride. The power dynamics within the Tau Pan pride remain unresolved.

The Airstrip pride was sighted four times, mostly around the waterhole and the airstrip area.

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Dinare Camps, August 2024

Dinare Camps, August 2024

Published August 31, 2024 by Kwando Safaris

Our standout moment this month was the sighting of an aardvark, a notoriously difficult animal to spot.

Genets, civets, and the rare aardvark — seen foraging methodically in the early hours — scrub hares, porcupines, and even the mysterious African wild cat were logged during the evening adventures. The night drives, a unique feature of our safari, were also especially productive for hyena sightings, particularly around their den, where we observed the pups growing rapidly. Their eerie whoops echoed through the darkness, and their silhouettes moved stealthily through the floodplains in search of scavenging opportunities.

Spectacular Hunts Across Gomoti Floodplains

A coalition of four cheetah brothers roamed the Gomoti River floodplains. Their proficiency as hunters was on full display as we followed them through several chases (a dance of speed and precision), often ending in successful kills of impala and young red lechwe.

A female cheetah with five cubs was also spotted intermittently, moving between the camps and Moremi Game Reserve. Although not as frequent, sightings of this family were exhilarating, with the cubs learning the art of the hunt from their skilled mother. More recently, another female with four cubs, around six months old, was seen regularly.

The lions were highly active around the river, their roars echoing across the floodplains at night. Tracking them on early morning game drives led to thrilling discoveries of fresh kills and feasting sessions. The mighty Gomoti Pride commanded the August landscape with fierce hunting prowess. A heart-stopping scene unfolded as the pride, led by the indomitable River Boy, took down a buffalo in full view of the safari vehicle. The sheer strength and precision of the hunt left everyone awestruck as the pride worked together to bring down the massive animal.

Adding a touch of tenderness to the excitement, two lionesses from Tee’s Pride were spotted introducing their new cubs to the pride’s territory.

Abundant Wildlife on the Lush Floodplains

The floodwaters transformed the floodplains into lush grazing grounds, attracting an abundance of general game. Elephants, in particular, were a constant presence, with large herds seen bathing, drinking, and socializing along the riverbanks. Buffalos, giraffes, impalas, kudus, and red lechwe were frequently sighted, while the return of roan and sable antelopes thrilled guests eager to spot these rarer species. The open floodplains also drew in herds of warthogs, zebras, and tsessebes.

Our walking safaris allowed guests to immerse themselves in the expertise of Kwando guides as they tracked animals, identified plants, and interpreted the bush’s subtle signs. The high water levels also provided a serene and peaceful opportunity for mokoro excursions, where guests floated through the channels, getting up close to aquatic birds and animals.

The resident male leopard, Rra Lebodu, took down a warthog in front of guests. His dominance in the area remains strong as he patrolled his territory near the camps.

A female leopard with two cubs was another regular sighting. The playful antics of the cubs, under the watchful eye of their mother, provided theatrical moments as they practised their stalking skills and engaged in mock hunts. Their mischievous antics provided a charming contrast to their mother’s vigilant demeanour!

Dinare African wild dog den update

The African wild dog den at Mma Dinare remained a hub of energy and action this month, with 18 adults and 16 playful puppies creating some of the season’s most dynamic and heartwarming sightings. We were treated to intimate observations of the pack’s incredible social structure, particularly the adults’ dedication to their young. One of the most fascinating scenes was following the adults on a hunt and watching them return to the den to regurgitate food for the hungry pups.

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Nxai Pan Camp, August 2024

Nxai Pan Camp, August 2024

Published August 31, 2024 by Kwando Safaris

August brought with it not just the cool winds of late winter but a string of unforgettable wildlife moments.

It all started on 2 August when four resident lionesses were spotted lounging by the Nxai Pan Camp waterhole alongside two males and another lioness near Baobab Loop. With noticeably full bellies, it was clear they had enjoyed a recent meal. Among them was a pregnant lioness who had separated from the pride — likely scouting for a den as we anticipate new cubs soon. This lioness made several appearances throughout the month, most notably guarding a freshly killed buffalo calf. Her tracks, often found around camp, added an extra layer of excitement, especially when four lionesses walked past camp just as we sat down for breakfast. The guests were in awe, watching these majestic predators up close — a surreal moment that left everyone buzzing for days.

The journeys to Baines’ Baobab, a famous landmark in Nxai Pan, were particularly striking. Here, tall grasslands opened up to the vast, shimmering salt pans, where the horizon often played tricks with mirages of distant water. Solitary oryx bulls stood in the shade near Baines Baobab, content to escape the day’s heat. Springboks frequently mingled with impalas, while blue wildebeests remained a regular sight.

Among the smaller but equally thrilling sightings were those of an African wild cat spotted twice near Baobab Loop on day game drives — an unusual treat given its typically nocturnal habits. Aardwolves basked in the sunlight along the Middle and West roads.

Signs of African wild dogs and the haunting hyaena calls

It’s been some time since we’ve seen African wild dogs, but reassuringly, tracks near the airstrip confirmed they are still in the area. Despite their elusive nature, the possibility of encountering these energetic predators always lingers. Meanwhile, the unmistakable calls of spotted hyenas echoed through the night, reminding us they were never far from camp. Brown hyena tracks were also spotted along the western road, and although we didn’t see any leopards this month, their presence was undeniable, too. Leopard tracks were found along the roads and within the camp, keeping everyone on high alert.

Buffalo, zebras, and elephant herds

As the month progressed, the movement patterns of the general game shifted. Buffalo herds started visiting the waterhole under the cover of darkness, leaving their tracks behind as morning clues. Zebras also arrived in impressive numbers, dotting the pan in an exciting development for this time of year

Elephants — breeding herds and bachelor groups — were frequent visitors in the afternoons, gathering along the water edge to drink and socialize. The waterholes buzzed with all kinds of animal life. Large flocks of cape turtle doves and Burchell’s sandgrouse swooped down for a drink in a synchronized display that left everyone mesmerized. Dragonflies darted gracefully in the air, and butterflies, including African monarchs, yellow pansies, and painted ladies, fluttered through the landscape, adding splashes of colour to the winter scenery.

A leopard tortoise made itself a familiar sight, spending several days basking in the same spot, undisturbed by the activity around it.

Birdwatching was exceptional, with white-backed vultures nesting near camp and a lappet-faced vulture claimed territory near the South Camp road. Other notable birds included the Marico flycatcher, black-chested snake eagle, crimson-breasted shrike, and the unmistakable yellow-billed hornbill.

A starlit finale: August’s celestial show

As the days gave way to clear August evenings, the night sky put on a spectacular show. With minimal light pollution and short trees surrounding the camp, stargazing was an unforgettable experience. The Canopus, Sirius, Scorpio, and the Southern Cross constellations illuminated the sky. Scrub hares also appeared nightly around camp, foraging peacefully under the moonlight.

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Pom Pom Camp, August 2024

Pom Pom Camp, August 2024

Published August 31, 2024 by Kwando Safaris

August brought both joy and sorrow to the resident African wild dog pack. They relocated their den 15km away, and the pack (initially consisting of 13 adults and 14 puppies) unfortunately dropped to 10 puppies due to predation by hyenas.

Despite declining African wild dog numbers, we were treated to some genuinely exhilarating moments. One morning, a pack chased an impala through the main area. Within minutes, the dogs made a successful kill, and just five minutes later, the puppies arrived to join in the feast — a thrilling breakfast-time spectacle for our guests!

With a spotted hyena den just 1.5km from camp, sightings of these often misunderstood predators were everyday occurrences. With the wild dogs moving out of the area, the hyenas struggled to scavenge from the dogs’ kills, and we witnessed several failed hunts this month. The hyenas targeted red lechwe and impalas but came up short each time. One particularly fascinating afternoon, we watched their relentless, yet unsuccessful, attempts to hunt lechwe in the water.

Leopard spotted during a mokoro trip

Some trees shed their leaves, and the grass dried, but the floodplains and lagoons remained vibrant, making wildlife sightings in these open areas even more exciting.

Birdwatching at Pom Pom Camp was nothing short of extraordinary, thanks to the thriving wetlands. Egrets, geese, and the elusive Pel’s fishing owl have delighted birdwatchers, particularly during mokoro excursions. The water levels dropped slightly, limiting our water-based activities to short mokoro rides. Still, this serene water-based activity allowed guests to get close to the vibrant birdlife, watching them in their natural habitats.

One of the month’s most unforgettable wildlife moments occurred during a mokoro activity when a male leopard was spotted crossing the water —an incredibly rare and exhilarating experience for our guests.

On another occasion, we followed a female leopard during a morning game drive stealthily stalking a male impala. After a perfectly calculated hunt, she made her kill, but the real magic happened when she returned to fetch her cubs, leading them back to the fresh meal. Witnessing her delicate balance of hunter and mother left everyone in awe.

A cheetah mother and her three six-month-old cubs were frequently observed on hunts. She made regular kills to keep her cubs fed, and guests witnessed her bring down impalas with calculated precision. Yet, as lion, leopard, and hyena activity increased, the cheetahs gradually moved out of the area, seeking safer grounds for their vulnerable cubs. A lone male cheetah in the region was also frequently spotted, though his solo hunts proved more difficult in this predator-rich environment.

Keeping track of the Pom Pom lions

The arrival of two intruder male lions disrupted the peace. The Pom Pom Pride, once dominant, was pushed from its territory, causing lion sightings to be a bit more sporadic. Yet this added tension between prides only heightened the thrill of each encounter, as the shifting dynamics created a volatile and captivating atmosphere.

One morning, Kwando guides and trackers trailed fresh lion prints across the plains at dawn. They pieced together the clues for nearly an hour, leading them to the pride resting peacefully on the floodplains. But their rest was brief — after about 15 minutes, the lions stirred and moved toward the river. Guests were treated to an unforgettable sight as the pride crossed the river onto an island.

Whether grazing peacefully or engaging in playful antics, the sheer volume of wildlife made every game drive a thrilling experience. Massive herds of elephants, buffaloes, wildebeests, and red lechwes filled the plains, while impalas, kudus, and zebras dotted the landscape. Baboons and monkeys provided lively entertainment, while hippos and giraffes added a gentle majesty to the scenery.

During night drives, African civets, side-striped jackals, and honey badgers were regularly spotted, while springhares, porcupines, and small-spotted genets enchanted guests. Aardwolves and African wild cats also made cameos, with dusk sundowners the perfect prelude to these magical sightings.

As winter temperatures lingered, reptile activity remained minimal. However, crocodiles and water monitor lizards were still seen basking along the riverbanks. Insects were relatively scarce, but with the warmer weather on the horizon, we’ve noticed a slight increase in activity, hinting at the changes to come.

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Lebala Camp, August 2024

Lebala Camp, August 2024

Published August 31, 2024 by Kwando Safaris

A dramatic shift in the lion hierarchy is playing out at Lebala. The three dominant males have been pushing their boundaries northward toward the Lagoon area, leaving the southern territories exposed.

This opening allowed a coalition of younger males, aged between five and seven years, to seize control of the southern region. Skimmer Pan now marks the invisible line between the two rival coalitions.

Tensions reached a boiling point when the dominant males returned from the south, bearing fresh scars from battles over territory. Their females, who had spent time with the new males during their absence, were quickly reclaimed. One particularly intense night saw the camp reverberating with the roars of combat. By morning, the dominant males had emerged victorious, mating with the females who had briefly courted the new coalition. Despite these fierce encounters, the dominant trio still controls the north, while the younger coalition has secured the southern region.

One of the lionesses, who had been pregnant, separated from the pride to give birth. Though we didn’t witness the birth itself, we saw signs of her lactating and later spotted her hunting alongside another adult female. We have yet to see her cubs but eagerly await their debut.

A tense cheetah pursuit interrupted

After tracking a pair of cheetahs for hours one morning, we found them resting but alert, preparing for their next move. By afternoon, they had climbed a tree to scan for prey, and their patience was rewarded when they spotted a herd of impalas.

As the cheetahs sprinted toward their target, the sightlines of everyone in the vehicle were glued to the unfolding drama. However, just as they closed in, a spotted hyena burst onto the scene, scattering the impalas and thwarting the cheetah’s efforts.

The hyena den remains active, with three cubs of varying ages providing plenty of entertainment. Two cubs are nearly the same age, while the third is a younger, scrappier addition. The mother’s protective presence is constant, though the calls of other hyenas suggest a larger clan lurking nearby.

One gripping scene involved a group of hyenas waiting for days near the site where lions had killed a buffalo. For five days, they lingered, patiently watching until the lions left. Once the lions moved on, the hyenas took over, greedily finishing the remains while fending off jackals and vultures in a chaotic, noisy spectacle of scavenging.

Large herds of elephants, wildebeest, and kudu were regularly spotted near the marsh, seeking relief from the climbing temperatures. Though fewer buffalo herds were seen, bachelor groups lingered near the river, their massive frames silhouetted against the sunset. The richness of the marsh area continues to provide nourishment for many species, but the landscape is dry, and we started to see the effects of the drought. However, the vegetation remains varied, with blooming trees attracting browsing species like kudus and giraffes.

Lebala leopard rivalries

Leopard tracking this month has been an exciting challenge, with many sightings resulting from hours of tracking through the bush. Two males who have long been rivals were spotted at different times, continuing their battle for dominance. We noticed that when one of the male leopards ventured into the marsh area, the other remained in the woodland. Both were tracking each other using the same paths.

One of the males attempted to stalk two baboons, one of which was limping. The baboons, however, spotted the predator in time and escaped. Unfazed, the leopard quickly switched tactics and began stalking warthogs near a termite mound. In an incredible display of skill and patience, we witnessed him take down a warthog and settle in for a meal as the sun set.

We’ve also seen three female leopards in the area, including one who spent two days marking her territory. It’s been fascinating to observe her scent marking in the same areas as the males, asserting her presence in this contested land.

Fires were visible on the Namibian side of the river, casting an orange glow across the horizon at night. Meanwhile, the water levels, which were rising earlier in the year, have stabilized. Large crocodiles became a common sight along the riverbanks, often basking in groups of three or more. Their prehistoric forms lay motionless in the sun, providing a stark contrast to the smaller reptiles and insects also spotted this month. Notable among them was a rock monitor lizard, seen foraging through the woodlands. Insects have been less active, but we’ve noticed some interesting sightings of carpenter bees and ants.

The Southern Carmine Bee-eaters have returned, signalling the changing season as they search for nesting grounds. Secretary birds have also been spotted more frequently, with some observed in pairs, likely preparing for the breeding season.

The night sky was particularly clear, offering stunning views of constellations and stars, especially when the moon was absent. African wild cats have been particularly active, frequently spotted during morning, evening, and night drives. Aardwolves were spotted several times, along with genets, civets, and porcupines, all making their rounds around camp.

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