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Month: September 2024

4 Rivers Camp, September 2024

September brought unforgettable sightings of a pride of 24 lions near the Kazungula area. This considerable pride was frequently spotted in an unusual display where several lionesses perched in trees, attempting to escape relentless flies.

Two mothers are currently lactating within this pride. One lioness has three cubs around five months old, while the other has four cubs approximately four months old. These cubs have already been introduced to the rest of the pride, making for some touching scenes of interaction.

African wild dogs on the hunt

Two African wild dog packs dominated sightings this month. A smaller pack of 12, including seven adults and five puppies, roamed near 4 Rivers Camp, thrilling guests when they brought down a kudu in front of Room 1.

4 Rivers Wild dog taken by Ruedi
Image taken by Ruedi

The larger pack of 28, with 16 adults and 12 puppies, delivered breathtaking action as they skillfully hunted and killed a wildebeest near Kazungula Road.

Leopard kills and clean-up crews

We tracked a large male leopard near Baboon Island as it stalked a group of blissfully ignorant impalas. The hunt ended without a kill but nevertheless left spectators spellbound. Elsewhere, a female leopard and her nine-month-old cub showcased their hunting prowess, feeding on a red lechwe carcass near Sedudu Island before successfully taking down a common reedbuck the next day.

The highlight came west of camp at the JD Spillway, where an unusual interaction between a mother leopard, her cub, and a large male unfolded over an impala kill. The male, presumably her sibling from several years ago, was noticeably uneasy in the company of the others, highlighting the complex dynamics of leopard family life.

4 Rivers Camp Leopard
Image taken by Ruedi

Speaking of family. On 17 September, excitement peaked when the 24-strong lion pride was spotted feasting on a buffalo carcass along Fishing Spot Road. Later, we observed a dramatic confrontation as three dominant males, aged seven to nine years, chased away two subadult males. Though born from the same pride, these young lions are now being pushed out to prevent inbreeding. It’s a tough but natural rite of passage.

Hyenas played their role as the bush clean-up crew and were frequently spotted scavenging along Mokoro Road. They feasted on an elephant carcass and were glimpsed near the staff village as they roamed about at night. Their cackling calls and efficient scavenging habits were a great reminder of their vital ecological role.

Cheetah tracks and reptilian encounters

The golden grasses of the dry season painted a striking contrast against the vibrant blue skies. The barren terrain offered exceptional visibility for game viewing. The diversity of Botswana’s bush during the dry season was on full display, with elephants, buffalo, and zebras frequently spotted alongside wildebeest, kudu, reedbuck, baboons, red lechwe and more.

Smaller mammals added charm to September’s wildlife tableau, from springhares bounding across the plains to fruit bats hanging about the trees in the main area. Lesser bushbabies dazzled guests on evening drives, while the sight of steenboks delighted daytime explorers. One particularly memorable moment featured elephants and warthogs enjoying a mud bath west of the helipad, where we also found an African rock python slithering toward the water on another game drive.  

Guests learned about animal tracks and medicinal plants on foot, while mokoro rides provided a serene exploration of the water channels.

Although cheetah sightings were less frequent this month, we did pick up several sets of tracks in the Tsum Tsum area, keeping us hopeful for future encounters.  

Crocodiles were ever-present along the channels, basking in the sun, mouths agape, regulating their body temperature — a behaviour that never fails to intrigue.

A September sky full of stars

The Scorpius constellation and the bright planet Venus adorned our September skies, offering perfect conditions for stargazing. Guests marvelled at the heavens from around the campfire, deepening their connection with the bush’s timeless rhythms.

(Please note: For the safety of the animals, we do not disclose the precise location of either rhino or pangolin sightings. Accompanying pictures are from our Kwando Photo Library which consists of all your great photo submissions over the years, it may not be the most up to date, but we felt it was worthy of a feature alongside this month’s Sightings Report!)

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Moremi Crossing Camp, September 2024

As September ended, our guests expressed a wish to see cheetahs before departure. Determined to fulfil their request, we ventured into the eastern part of the Gunn’s Private Concession, where we stumbled upon a thrilling hunt.

We watched as a cheetah skilfully stalked its prey, culminating in a successful kill right before our eyes. As if this wasn’t exciting enough, the cheetah left the kill momentarily to fetch its two cubs, returning to the scene to share the feast. The scene grew even more dramatic when two spotted hyenas appeared from nowhere, attempting to steal the kill. However, the cheetah’s determination prevailed, and the hyenas left with empty stomachs.

There were frequent spotted hyena sightings along the riverine areas. One epic encounter unfolded when a pride of lions faced off with a clan of hyenas over a buffalo kill. The hyenas attempted to steal the kill, but the lions had already devoured most of the buffalo and left only bones behind.

African wild dog dens and lion kills in front of camp

A pack of African wild dogs was also observed in a heated standoff with two hyenas. The hyenas attempted to steal food, but the wild dogs fiercely defended their pack, likely motivated by the need to protect their young. The scene was comical yet intense, as the hyenas kept returning, undeterred, only to be chased away repeatedly.

Additionally, earlier in the month, we discovered an African wild dog den. While the puppies had already grown and moved out after a few weeks, the sighting provided guests with a unique glimpse into the family dynamics of these incredible predators.

Two prides of lions were particularly active and frequently spotted during game drives. Two males, often called “the boys,” were sighted regularly near the camp, sometimes crossing into the Moremi Game Reserve.

One especially thrilling moment occurred near the main area of Moremi Crossing Camp, where a pride with a female lion and her three cubs made a kill. Guests witnessed the scene from the comfort of the camp — an unforgettable experience. Beyond this, other prides ventured into the concession before retreating to their usual territories, keeping the lion dynamics in the area intriguing.

One resident leopard, a magnificent cat often seen near the camp, continued to grace us with her presence. On multiple game drives, we also glimpsed other leopards.

Life is wild along the banks of the Boro River 

Elephants, zebras, giraffes, and various antelope species, including kudu and impalas, are seen regularly. With the Boro River still providing water, animals had access to abundant food and water. Crocodiles basked along the riverbanks, soaking up the sun while keeping a wary eye on the surroundings. One dominant crocodile was spotted regularly near the main area, sometimes attempting to ambush unsuspecting animals coming to drink. Common bird sightings along the riverbanks included African fish eagles, storks, great white pelicans, African jacanas, and pied kingfishers

Hippo at Moremi Crossing

Elephants were especially prominent around the camp, often wandering between the towering palm trees. Guests frequently saw them shaking the palm trees to gather the nuts before moving on to the next. Buffalo herds were another common sight, often grazing near the main area or within proximity to the rooms.

Impalas were also plentiful, often seen grazing in large numbers. Warthogs made themselves at home around camp, taking refuge under the main area and even beneath guest rooms to avoid predators. Their antics were a charming addition to camp wildlife activities.

The clear September skies offered unparalleled stargazing opportunities. The Southern Cross, Pointers, and other constellations were visible in dazzling clarity.

(Please note: For the safety of the animals, we do not disclose the precise location of either rhino or pangolin sightings. Accompanying pictures are from our Kwando Photo Library which consists of all your great photo submissions over the years, it may not be the most up to date, but we felt it was worthy of a feature alongside this month’s Sightings Report!)

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Dinare Camps, September 2024

Caracal were reported three times this month. One relaxed individual was observed along Impala Road, while another shy caracal was seen drinking at a waterhole.

This month also delivered an adrenaline-fueled spectacle. Kwando guides tracked the famed four cheetah brothers through dense mopane woodland to Roan’s Pan.

After a suspenseful 40-minute pursuit, the brothers were spotted in hunting mode. Their initial target, a dazzle of zebras, evaded them, but the action didn’t end there. A sudden burst of speed turned the tide as the brothers chased down and captured a common duiker, leaving guests in awe of astonishing agility. These four brothers continued to dominate the area, marking territory and showcasing their remarkable teamwork.

Another consistent highlight was a mother cheetah with her four cubs, now around four months old. Once shy, the cubs have grown bolder, and guests were treated to a spectacular moment when the mother took down a fully grown kudu. She later dragged the massive carcass into the shade, allowing her cubs to feast.

Four lion prides, four tiny cubs, and two elephant kills

At Rra Dinare, Tee’s pride made an epic return after months of absence. Their formidable presence was felt across the Dinare Private Reserve. Led by a single male, the pride of five lionesses and seven older cubs took down two young elephants within days. One memorable morning, they were discovered blood-stained and feasting on a subadult elephant carcass. Four days later, they had taken down another young elephant with the pride swarming the prey in under 30 minutes. Meanwhile, the territorial Gomoti Boys continued to assert their dominance, showing guests the complex lives of lions with their overlapping territories and pride dynamics.

Rra Dinare Lion
Image taken by KA Pride

Over at Mma Dinare, the resident lion pride delighted guests with the debut of four tiny cubs, just a few weeks old.

These vulnerable additions brought tender moments to the harsh wilderness, while their mothers and the pride’s three dominant males showcased their strength and unity by hunting in the Paradise Grasslands. Meanwhile, the Batshabi Pride solidified their reputation as buffalo specialists with multiple successful hunts throughout the month.

Spotted hyenas were often seen scavenging from lion and cheetah kills. At Mma Dinare, guests frequently visited an active hyena den near the camp, where pups played under the watchful eyes of the adults. At Rra Dinare, Kwando guides tracked some intriguing drag marks for over an hour, eventually locating a secretive new den where eight hyena cubs were observed outside with adults.

A growing pack of African wild dogs and lots of leopards

At Mma Dinare, a massive pack of 32 wild dogs, including 15 playful puppies, was spotted near camp. Guests were captivated by the interactions between the adults and puppies, especially as the pack returned from hunts to regurgitate food for the young ones

At Rra Dinare, wild dog tracking became an adventure. One sighting involved nearly two hours of following tracks before the dogs were found playfully interacting near their temporary den. The pack’s hierarchy was shifting, with a younger subordinate male stepping into leadership roles as an ageing alpha male started to take a backseat.

Rra Dinare Leopard
Image taken by KA Pride

At Mma Dinare, a large male leopard was frequently seen with impala kills hoisted high in the trees. Rralebodu, the dominant male, continued to assert his dominance, mating with multiple females and successfully hunting warthogs, dragging one up a tree.

On one occasion, we followed alarm calls from birds and impalas, which led to the discovery of a leopard cub. While searching for the cub, the guides stumbled upon its mother, also with a fresh kill – a phenomenal double sighting!

At Rra Dinare, an extraordinary interaction unfolded between a female leopard and an intruder near her kill, which was secured up a raintree. The two leopards engaged in a tense standoff, vocalizing and salivating but avoiding physical confrontation.

Great game – day and night!  

The dry, dusty plains were softened by the blooming sausage trees. Their red flowers lured baboons and impalas to their shade while giraffes eagerly awaited the ripening pods.

Although receding, the Gomoti River still allowed for short mokoro trips, during which guests enjoyed tranquil encounters with frogs, water lilies, and aquatic birds. The surrounding grasslands teemed with life. Elephants, giraffes, kudus, zebras, and buffalo herds moved in harmony with red lechwes and reedbucks, while roan sable antelopes took up residence in the woodlands nearest the river. Hippos and crocodiles ruled the waterways.

The arrival of summer migrants enriched the birdlife. Carmine and European bee-eaters dazzled with their vibrant colours while the haunting call of the African fish eagle echoed along the Gomoti River. Yellow-billed kites, yellow-billed storks, and various other species were frequently seen, offering spectacular birding opportunities.

Guided bush walks provided guests with a deeper connection to the wilderness, focusing on animal tracks, plants, and smaller creatures.

Night drives revealed honey badgers, porcupines, servals, civets, genets, and bat-eared foxes.

(Please note: For the safety of the animals, we do not disclose the precise location of either rhino or pangolin sightings. Accompanying pictures are from our Kwando Photo Library which consists of all your great photo submissions over the years, it may not be the most up to date, but we felt it was worthy of a feature alongside this month’s Sightings Report!)

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Nxai Pan Camp, September 2024

The lions of Nxai Pan impressed us with their majestic presence. One morning, three resident lionesses rested beside the camp waterhole. The following day, the entire pride was spotted at the same waterhole, their bellies full.

Evidence of their feast was clear, with vultures circling above the trees. Their recent kill was located just south of the waterhole in the woods.

The same lionesses were seen at the southern side of the wildlife waterhole, this time with a kudu calf kill. Adding to the drama, two males were heard roaring throughout the night. Their tracks led us to discover that they had visited the camp swimming pool for a drink.

Leopard tracks were also frequently found along the roads during game drives and within camp. The silent nature of this magnificent predator added to the excitement of knowing they were always near, even if unseen.

On 25 September, one lioness graced the waterhole, while another was seen at the wildlife waterhole feasting on a zebra, surrounded by vultures and opportunistic jackals.

A final lion highlight occurred on the 27th when three lionesses appeared just in front of the lodge. They spent the night nearby while guests enjoyed dinner, offering a close and unforgettable wildlife experience.

Springboks, elephants and more paraded the salt pans 

Springboks filled the pans, feeding on the nutrient-rich grasses alongside impalas. Blue wildebeests were a daily sight, often in large herds. A notable shift was observed as buffalo herds visited our waterhole in the mornings and afternoons, likely due to a temporary lack of water at the wildlife waterhole. Zebras also arrived in impressive numbers, painting the pans with their iconic stripes — a fascinating sight for this time of year

Elephants were a highlight, with large breeding herds and bachelor groups frequently quenching their thirst at the waterhole. Most herds appeared in the afternoons. Giraffe sightings were more limited as they ventured deeper into the bush but occasionally emerged for water.

Elephants at Nxai Pan

Dragonflies danced above the waterhole, feeding on smaller insects, while ground agama lizards were spotted basking in the sun. A leopard tortoise was seen leisurely crossing Baobab Loop, its slow pace a stark contrast to the dynamic movements of other wildlife. Butterflies added splashes of colour to the landscape, with species such as the African monarch, yellow pansy, scarlet tip and painted lady fluttering through the camp.

We also spotted Egyptian geese, grey herons, red-billed teals, and African open-billed storks at the waterhole. Nesting white-backed vultures and lappet-faced vultures were observed near the roads, and other notable sightings included the kori bustard, crimson-breasted shrike, yellow-billed hornbills, Marico flycatchers, greater kestrels, pale chanting goshawks.

Stunning scenery on a day trip to Baines’ Baobabs 

The journey to Baines’ Baobab was always an adventure, with vistas of vast plains transitioning to tall grasslands and finally opening up to the unforgettable Makgadikgadi Salt Pans. The mirage on the far horizon created an illusion of water, adding a surreal touch to the scenery. Solitary oryx bulls, with their impressive horns, were repeatedly seen seeking shade along this route during the hotter parts of the day.

Aardwolves were seen along West Road and Middle Road during the day, basking in the sun outside their burrows, while bat-eared fox pairs were spotted moving about the pans, foraging for insects and small prey. Scrub hares were frequently observed at night near the camp, foraging under cover of darkness. Up above, September constellations, Scorpio, the Southern Cross, Gemini, and Sagittarius were clearly visible, as were stars like Sirius, Canopus, and Procyon. The camp’s strategic location, with minimal light pollution and short trees, offered unparalleled views of the celestial wonders.

African wild dogs had not been seen for some time, but we identified tracks along the road to the airstrip, proving they still roamed nearby.

(Please note: For the safety of the animals, we do not disclose the precise location of either rhino or pangolin sightings. Accompanying pictures are from our Kwando Photo Library which consists of all your great photo submissions over the years, it may not be the most up to date, but we felt it was worthy of a feature alongside this month’s Sightings Report!)

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Lebala Camp, September 2024

Brown hyena sightings were a highlight this month, even though these elusive creatures quickly vanished into the marsh when spotted.

The resident pack of 12 African wild dogs, consisting of seven adults and five puppies, were highly active, moving between Selinda, Lebala, and Lagoon.

We had the incredible experience of watching them hunt and successfully take down an impala right in front of camp while we were enjoying breakfast. We followed them on several afternoon hunts, but they weren’t always successful. However, we often found them most mornings feeding on their primary prey impala.

Large herds of elephants were frequently spotted, often accompanied by playful calves. We enjoyed watching the elephants cross the river channels, bathe in the mud, and even spray themselves with water to cool off. Bachelor herds of buffalo were common along the marsh. At the same time, the semi-aquatic sitatunga antelope has been a real treat for guests, particularly when males ventured into more open areas.

Another memorable sighting involved a group of spotted hyenas feeding on the remains of a buffalo after lions had finished their meal. This provided an excellent opportunity to observe their scavenging behaviour. With the dry season in full swing, much of the wildlife has been concentrated around the marsh, and the lion prides of Lebala took full advantage.

Two strong male lion coalitions at Lebala 

One of the most fascinating developments was the emergence of two coalitions of male lions, each consisting of three individuals. The older, more dominant coalition, known as the Golden Boys, expanded its territory toward Lagoon, while the younger coalition, referred to as Rra Pandane, now asserts control over the southern area. Both coalitions shared access to a single pride of lionesses, which moved between the two territories. The tension between the two coalitions has been palpable. On several nights, we listened to the roaring contests between the two groups, with their aggressive calls echoing across the landscape. At times, we could even hear the sounds of fighting in the distance. By morning, the Golden Boys would be back in the northern territory, while the Rra Pandane coalition would have retreated to the southern boundary, with the camp seeming to act as a natural border between them.

Lions of Lebala Camp Kwando

We encountered multiple leopards in a single day on several occasions this month. One female leopard with two cubs was spotted frequently, although her cubs remained shy and tended to retreat into the thickets whenever we approached. Another female with a single cub (estimated to be around two months old) also roamed the area.

We followed a female leopard and her year-old male cub on several hunts, and one especially thrilling sighting involved a common reedbuck kill. The cub, now almost grown, was reluctant to share the meal with his mother, growling whenever she approached. Meanwhile, the two dominant male leopards in the area have been tracking each other’s movements, marking the same territories and leaving scent trails. A younger male, who was previously chased off, has reappeared in the southern part of the Kwando Private Concession, avoiding conflict with the bigger males in the north. One evening, as we tracked this younger male, we watched as an African fish eagle landed nearby, and the leopard responded by trying to attack the bird — a rare and exciting interaction.

Coalitions and constellations 

The coalition of two male cheetah brothers was a constant source of excitement, though tracking them sometimes required hours of patience. We followed them on multiple hunts, witnessing their stealthy stalking and high-speed chases, though they didn’t always succeed in bringing down prey. One day, a female cheetah entered the area, leaving scent marks that the brothers eagerly followed. We saw the pair temporarily split up as they tried to locate the female, showcasing the intense dynamics of cheetah courtship.

Large crocodiles basked along the river banks, enjoying the sun’s warmth. We also had a few encounters with snakes, though many darted into the tall grass before we could identify them. Insect activity has increased, with various species of grasshoppers, beetles, and dragonflies becoming more prominent as the season progressed.

The birds have enjoyed this flush of life, too. We had not seen any nesting carmine bee-eaters yet, but white-fronted bee-eaters nested along the riverbanks. Secretary birds roamed the plains while raptors such as African fish eagles, tawny eagles, and bateleurs were observed in the skies, often scanning for prey from high above. The wetlands provided excellent opportunities to view wading birds like herons and storks.

Wildlife showed remarkable resilience despite the increasing aridity of the woodlands and the dropping water levels in the channels. Certain trees, such as the knobbly combretum, sausage trees, rain trees, and candle-pod acacia, started to bloom, adding vibrant splashes of colour to the otherwise dry terrain.

The night sky was a breathtaking spectacle, with minimal cloud cover revealing constellations such as Orion, Scorpio, and Libra. The stars, paired with the dry season’s crisp air, made for some truly incredible evenings under the African sky. African wild cats, genets, civets, and springhares were regular sightings on our nocturnal excursions, adding to the enchantment of the night. The white-tailed mongoose was spotted on multiple night drives, and porcupines became a familiar sight in and around camp.

(Please note: For the safety of the animals, we do not disclose the precise location of either rhino or pangolin sightings. Accompanying pictures are from our Kwando Photo Library which consists of all your great photo submissions over the years, it may not be the most up to date, but we felt it was worthy of a feature alongside this month’s Sightings Report!)

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Lagoon Camp, September 2024

There was lots of action among the different Lagoon Camp prides. One unforgettable sighting occurred when we found the Holi Pride feasting on a dead elephant along Makudi Road. It appeared that the elephant, an old bull, had died of natural causes, and the pride wasted no time taking advantage of the meal. 

The Holi Pride actively hunted along the marshes near the main road and had successful hunts, mainly targeting warthogs and wildebeest. Toward the end of the month, the lions moved north, near the airstrip, expanding their range.

The three resident male lions, the Golden Boys, dominated the Second Lagoon and Kwena Lagoon areas. We spotted them at Rakgolo Road feeding on an elephant calf they had taken down the night before, spending two days devouring their kill. Another pride, the Mmamosetlha Pride, consisting of four lionesses, has successfully hunted warthogs and sometimes joined forces with the Golden Boys.

Large herds of elephants, often accompanied by tiny calves, came to the river in the early morning and late afternoon to avoid the midday heat. Watching the subadult elephants playfully mud bathing and splashing in the water, even during the hottest part of the day, was a real treat.

The Lagoon Pride — another group comprising three lionesses with six subadults — prowled the riverbanks and took down buffalo on multiple occasions. Additionally, we’ve had a new pride in the area, consisting of two lionesses and seven cubs of different ages. The youngest cubs are less than three months old, while the oldest are over six months.

Cheetah chases and other spotted predators 

Two resident male cheetahs, known for their strong bond and hunting prowess, were a constant presence in the southern part of the Kwando Private Concession. We tracked them numerous times, following their paw prints along the Maheke area. On one occasion, we witnessed several failed chases before locating them the following day, feeding on an impala carcass. These cheetahs are relentless and efficient hunters, often targeting greater kudu and tsessebe. Their movements and success rates made them a fascinating duo to follow.

African wild dog Lagoon Camp

African wild dog sightings were rarer, but we still tracked two different packs. We followed one group of seven wild dogs before locating them resting along Maporota Road. Another sighting involved a pack of six African wild dogs near Upper Kwando, where they chased impalas into the thickets. Later in the month, we tracked this same pack south of the airstrip, finding them in the afternoon resting in the shade of an African ebony tree near Marapo a Thutwa.

The spotted hyenas have been busy, particularly where a dead elephant lay along Makudi Road. We watched eight hyenas take advantage of the free meal, gorging on the remains. Hyenas were also frequently seen during night drives, scouting the area for opportunities. Additionally, a brown hyena was spotted along Pangolin Road during one of our night drives, moving silently in search of its next meal.

Fireflies and night drives

Warm days brought out a variety of insects, including grasshoppers, antlions, and chafer beetles. We also saw plenty of fireflies lighting up the night, their glowing bodies adding to the magic of our evening drives. Nocturnal creatures such as scrub hares and springhares were spotted during night drives, hopping along the roadways. Black-backed and side-striped jackals trotted through the bush in search of food. African civets and small-spotted genets were also active, particularly around Water Affairs Island. The night skies have been breathtaking, with constellations such as Orion, Scorpius, and Libra clearly visible, along with planets like Mars, Saturn, and Venus.

Watching steenboks, the smallest of the antelopes, perform their peculiar behaviour of covering their dung to avoid detection by predators was particularly fascinating. Yellow and slender mongooses were also sighted darting about, adding to the variety of small mammal sightings.

Life is wild along the Kwando River

Nile crocodiles were a common sight along the Kwando River, basking in the sun or swimming just beneath the surface. Water monitor lizards patrolled the riverbanks and were spotted searching for food in the trees.

Giraffes at Lagoon Camp

White-backed and hooded vultures fed on carrion, often joined by marabou storks. We also had regular sightings of ostriches foraging insects and plant material, and red-crested korhaans performed their parachute displays. Guineafowls and red-billed francolins have been busy sifting through elephant dung for undigested seeds. At the same time, birds of prey, such as African fish eagles, bateleurs, tawny eagles, and African hawk eagles, soared through the skies. African wattled cranes, open-billed storks, and goliath herons graced the floodplains.

The water levels in the Kwando River started to drop slightly, but there was still plenty for the wildlife. Cape buffalo and wildebeest were common around the water sources, while semi-aquatic antelopes such as reedbuck, waterbuck, and lechwe grazed on the floodplains. The woodlands dried out, though some trees, like the silver-leafed terminalia and candle-pod terminalia, were already sprouting fresh leaves. This is where we enjoyed sightings of eland, often seen along the Cutline Road, though they were quick to retreat.

 Another fascinating sight was watching a pied kingfisher hover above the remaining waters, ready to dive for fish, and seeing a black heron use its unique umbrella technique to lure fish and insects into its trap. The vegetation around the river remained green and lush, offering excellent grazing and browsing for herbivores. 

Lastly, we closely followed the activity of two subadult leopards — a male and a female — now fending for themselves after their mother was killed by lions from the Holi Pride. Despite the tragedy, these young leopards are proving to be skilled hunters. They frequently took down impalas and warthogs. The female was more comfortable around vehicles, often found sitting on her kills, while the young male was a bit more elusive.

We also spotted a male leopard feeding on a baboon carcass along Riverine Road and a shy leopard near Second Lagoon several times with kills. A more relaxed female and her cub were seen regularly near Water Affairs Island and the northern airstrip. Now around eight months old, these cubs granted us plenty of time to observe them, especially when they were found feeding on a reedbuck carcass along Pangolin Road.

(Please note: For the safety of the animals, we do not disclose the precise location of either rhino or pangolin sightings. Accompanying pictures are from our Kwando Photo Library which consists of all your great photo submissions over the years, it may not be the most up to date, but we felt it was worthy of a feature alongside this month’s Sightings Report!)

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Kwara and Splash Camps, September 2024

As spring melted into summer, the floodplains began to dry, revealing trampled grasslands and making for optimal game viewing.

At Splash Camp, 17 adult African wild dogs and 14 puppies fed on an impala near Sable Island. Another morning, an extraordinary sight unfolded as the pack chased impalas right through the camp, with some dogs sprinting across the main deck! The commotion ended with a successful kill just in front of the office. Unfortunately, two puppies went missing that morning. However, the pack’s resilience was evident as they defended their pups from lions after losing a reedbuck kill near Ngorongoro.

The Kwara pack, consisting of 17 adults and 12 puppies, delivered spectacular moments. Early in September, the pack successfully hunted three impalas in the open plains of Mmoloki Mabala. Over the following week, they established a temporary den near Kevin’s Crossing, where the adults regurgitated food for the young ones after their hunts.

Life-giving rivers and Godikwe Heronry activity

The blooming sausage and camel thorn trees added bursts of colour to the Kwara Private Concession. Mokoro rides from both camps offered serene encounters with water lilies, frogs, and elephants crossing the river.

These waterways attracted herds of buffaloes and elephants, with the latter often seen swimming or applying their signature “mud sunscreen. ” This behaviour helps them regulate their body temperature and protect their skin from the sun. At Kwara, a herd of over 1000 buffaloes was sighted east of camp.

The Godikwe and Xhobega heronries buzzed with activity as yellow-billed and marabou storks, pelicans, and herons nested and bred. Ostriches with chicks were seen near the airstrip, and migratory species like yellow-billed kites and southern carmine bee-eaters, known for their striking red plumage, marked the start of the migration season. Sunset cruises along the channel provided enchanting views of hippos, crocodiles, and vibrant birdlife. Crocodiles basked along the waterways while frogs and insects emerged, signalling the shift in temperatures.

The Big Cats of Kwara: lions, leopards and cheetahs

At Splash, the resident mother leopard and her cub captivated all who saw them. Early in the month, the mother hoisted an impala kill into a tree while her cub hid safely nearby. Later, the duo scavenged from an elephant carcass near camp, highlighting their survival skills. Rratsebe made a notable Splash cameo near Sable Island, satiated from a fresh kill. This dominant male leopard typically stays closer to Kwara Camp, where we found him on a red lechwe kill for two days. A shy female was also observed dragging an impala kill from a tree, and guests were delighted to spot another relaxed male lounging atop a termite mound, the perfect photographic subject.

Leopard at Kwara Camp

The resident lion pride at Kwara —12 females and subadults, accompanied by seven playful cubs — made regular appearances. Early in the month, they were tracked near the Bat-eared Fox Den area, and they eventually settled in the shade after a successful hunt. The coalition of three dominant males was often found nearby, exuding their effortless power on open floodplains. Tension filled the air mid-month when two intruding males feasted on a buffalo carcass at Hippo Pan, surrounded by over 20 hyenas eager for scraps. Meanwhile, the legendary solitary male lion, John Walker, demonstrated his stealth, guarding a warthog kill near Jackal Den.

At Splash, lion drama unfolded with intensity. A pride of three — a subadult male and two lionesses — guarded a waterbuck kill south of camp, fiercely fending off a hyena pack’s attempts to steal their meal. Spotted hyenas frequented Kevin’s Crossing, also scavenging from wild dog kills and creating intense encounters. The scavengers capitalized on two elephant carcasses, performing as nature’s cleanup crew.

Later in September, a territorial clash, a common occurrence among lion prides, saw the Kwara Pride of eight chase off two rival lions in a heart-pounding encounter. Such encounters are crucial to maintaining the pride’s territory and ensuring the safety of its members. Meanwhile, Mma Leitho’s daughter was seen near Waterbuck Pan, carefully nurturing her cubs.

At Splash, a sole male cheetah was located near the Bat-Eared Fox Den after a 30-minute tracking session, and a coalition of two males delivered action-packed moments to guests at Kwara Camp. The brothers were seen several times. They were found feeding on an impala at Gomms Crossing, but their most notable appearance was along the Splash Boat Station road, where they stalked and attempted to catch a warthog. They were unsuccessful as the wind betrayed their presence. Just another challenge after the high density of lions…

Night drives revealed an array of fascinating mammals, including aardwolves, aardvarks, African wild cats, civets, genets, and porcupines.

(Please note: For the safety of the animals, we do not disclose the precise location of either rhino or pangolin sightings. Accompanying pictures are from our Kwando Photo Library which consists of all your great photo submissions over the years, it may not be the most up to date, but we felt it was worthy of a feature alongside this month’s Sightings Report!)

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Tau Pan Camp, September 2024

A small group of three male elephants frequented the Tau Pan waterhole, displaying spectacular behaviour.

Watching these gentle giants mud-bathe and spray themselves from the main deck was entertaining and insightful. Their presence at the waterhole often kept smaller and medium-sized animals at bay, creating a unique relationship as other species patiently waited for their turn to drink.

Smaller mammals provided delightful surprises this month. Near one of the pans, a remarkable sighting was a caracal with a steenbok kill. Honey badgers, bat-eared foxes, ground squirrels, and black-backed jackals were commonly seen around Tau Pan. An African wild cat was observed near the airstrip.

Three brown hyenas visited the camp waterhole on separate occasions, drinking and scanning the area for potential scavenging opportunities. One individual was also observed heading north toward the airstrip, while another rested near Sunday Waterhole.

Sandgrouse flocked to the waterholes, drawing the attention of predatory birds like the pale-chanting goshawk and the Gabar goshawk, often seen diving in to test their luck. Other notable sightings included spotted eagle owls, giant eagle owls, tawny eagles, African harrier hawks, black-chested snake eagles, secretary birds, and greater kestrels. Ostriches were also drawn to the flowering river thorn acacia trees, creating photogenic moments in the golden light of the pans.

The black-maned lions of Tau Pan

September reaffirmed why Tau Pan is genuinely a lion stronghold. The Tau Pan Pride offered consistent sightings as they roamed the camp and surrounding areas. These enormous cats frequently rested in front of rooms, by the swimming pool, or under the star deck. They sometimes even lingered for two or three days around the camp.

One of the ex-dominant males from the pride was observed patrolling the western regions of Tau Pan, seemingly strategizing his return to reclaim dominance from the current leader. This developing power struggle between the old male and the new dominant male remained a fascinating storyline, keeping both guides and guests on the edge of their seats.

Tau Pan Lions

In addition to the resident prides, sightings of new lions added to the excitement. A pride of two consisting of a mother and her subadult male cub (approximately 1.5 years old) was seen moving through the area. Another pride of eight lions was spotted several times, comprising two adult females, three subadult females, and three subadult males (aged around 3.5 years). On one occasion, the pride’s roaring and social interactions reverberated across the pan, creating a magical experience for everyone.

Life among the flowering trees

During one afternoon game drive, a resident female leopard lounged high in a tree on the northern side of camp. In contrast, another female along Aardvark Road demonstrated her stalking prowess as she targeted a common duiker. Though her hunt was unsuccessful, the display of stealth and patience was captivating to watch.

Meanwhile, a shy male leopard was sighted near Passarge Waterhole with a steenbok kill.

A subadult male and female cheetah were seen on the southern side of Tau Pan, both with noticeably full bellies, indicating a recent successful hunt. Tracks of two other cheetahs were found near Passarge Waterhole, leading to the discovery of a kudu carcass they had taken down.

There was an onset of greenery this month. Flowering acacia trees drew in various herbivores, such as springbok, kudu, steenbok, and oryx, often seen feeding on the nutritious pods. The Sunday Waterhole remained a hotspot for wildlife activity, with large numbers of animals congregating to drink. Fresh African wild dog tracks around Letiahau Waterhole, Sunday Waterhole, and Passage Waterhole were identified. Self-drive visitors reported spotting the pack at Sunday Waterhole, while the research team noted sightings near Passarge Waterhole and another pair in the northern region.

Giraffe sightings notably increased compared to August. These gentle giants were frequently seen in areas like Letiahau, Deception Valley, and near the camp waterhole. Guests were thrilled to see them striding gracefully between the trees and water sources.

During nature walks led by an experienced Kalahari Bushman, guests were given a glimpse into the remarkable survival skills and cultural traditions, including how to find water, food, and fire-starting materials in the arid desert landscape.

(Please note: For the safety of the animals, we do not disclose the precise location of either rhino or pangolin sightings. Accompanying pictures are from our Kwando Photo Library which consists of all your great photo submissions over the years, it may not be the most up to date, but we felt it was worthy of a feature alongside this month’s Sightings Report!)

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