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Nxai Pan Camp, May 2024


Spotted hyenas were frequently seen this month. Four were observed drinking early in the morning at the camp waterhole, only to be ambushed.

The lions, stealthily approaching from the tall grass, launched a surprise attack, scattering the hyenas in all directions. The lions chased the hyenas away, but managed to catch and kill one, a standard behaviour to reduce competition for food. The distinctive calls of both species were a regular nocturnal soundtrack at Nxai Pan Camp.

There was an abundance of black-backed jackals, especially at the camp waterhole. They were feeding on the remains of the hyena killed by lions, taking advantage of the lion’s leftovers. Numerous white-backed, white-headed, and lappet-faced vultures likewise fed on the carcass, forming a typical scavenger scene.

Sunbathing aardwolves and busy badgers

Aardwolves established a den at Baboon Loop and along West Road, and we frequently observed them basking in the winter sun. Two honey badgers were also seen most mornings when exploring around Baobab Loop.

The resident pride of five lions was regularly seen, providing thrilling encounters. One morning, we tracked them to the middle road towards the wildlife waterhole near South Camp, where they had taken down a wildebeest and feasted all day. The pride was also observed at the wildlife waterhole, unsuccessfully attempting to hunt kudus and springboks.

This month, we located a female leopard resting in the shade along the main road just before the South Gate on the way from Baines Baobabs and saw several other animals on these expeditions. Two rock monitor lizards were located en route (and another was regularly seen on a Terminalia tree along the road to the airstrip). Trackers identified African wild dog tracks along the main road just past the South Gate, and a black mamba crossed the main road on another Baines’ Baobabs day trip, rearing up as we approached. We saw plenty of oryx near Baines’ Baobabs themselves, including groups with young calves.

Elephant rituals and buffalo behaviour at the camp waterhole

Bat-eared foxes were frequently seen foraging, and springboks grazed on the nutritious grass of Nxai Pan, often alongside impalas. The pans, covered with a fine layer of white silt rich in sodium carbonate, offered a unique and breathtaking panorama, especially around the Baines Baobabs region. Blue wildebeests were a daily sight, as were giraffes, sometimes seen sparring. African elephants were a typical highlight, caught engaging in water-drinking rituals and thermoregulation by mud-bathing, which also helps remove parasites. Their ear flapping helps them to cool down because the blood is cooled in their capillaries.

A large breeding herd of buffalo also visited the camp waterhole, often seen in the company of a dominant bull. The submissive behaviour displayed when elephants encountered these buffaloes was fascinating to observe.

Cute baby elephant at Nxai Pan

Insect activity was colourful, with many dragonflies seen hovering over water sources. Butterflies such as the African monarch, yellow pansy, scarlet tip, painted lady flew across the skies. Dragonflies, including red busker, and red-veined dropwing were prevalent. Antlions, both in their larval stage and as adults around lodge lights, were engrossing to observe. These fascinating insects are known for their unique hunting technique, where they dig conical pits in sandy soil and wait at the bottom for unsuspecting prey to fall in. Among the spiders, the most notable were baboon, flat wall, and golden orb-web spiders. We also saw a Cape cobra basking in the sun on the pan.

Cape turtle doves, blacksmith lapwings, and Burchell’s sandgrouse were regular visitors to the waterholes, especially in the mornings and late afternoons. These birds rely on the waterholes for their hydration needs. Other notable birds included marico flycatchers, chat flycatchers, crimson-breasted shrikes, double-banded coursers, and the majestic kori bustards. Northern black korhaans were also frequently seen and heard.

Last but not least, The Makgadikgadi night skies in May were genuinely mesmerizing. Prominent constellations such as Scorpius, Orion, Carina, the Southern Cross, Taurus, and Boötes were visible, along with notable stars like Antares in Scorpio and Sirius in Canis Major. 

(Please note: For the safety of the animals, we do not disclose the precise location of either rhino or pangolin sightings. Accompanying pictures are from our Kwando Photo Library which consists of all your great photo submissions over the years, it may not be the most up to date, but we felt it was worthy of a feature alongside this month’s Sightings Report!)