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Month: May 2024

4 Rivers Camp, May 2024

A standout sighting was observing 11 lions riding on the back of a stranded hippo found in a drying pond.

The hippo made a dash through Croton Island, escaping to the permanent water body with lions aboard, south of Paradise Island. We also witnessed three females taking down a male red lechwe around Double Crossing, Paradise Island.

Most early mornings, with the sun barely peeking over the horizon, we heard the powerful roars of the resident pride of five lions. The pride, consisting of two majestic males and three regal females, had settled near our camp.

Additionally, there’s a coalition of two brothers ranging from the west to Mabowa Island up to Mokoro Station. Another smaller pride of four females with a six-month-old cub operates around the 4 Rivers Lediba area.

Mother leopard patrols 4 Rivers

Our resident leopard sightings have been remarkable, especially observing a female leopard with her five-month-old cub around the 4 Rivers Camp area.

This mother operates around Deadtree Island (a unique habitat known for its dense tree cover and abundant prey) Maboa Island, and the Leopard Road area to the west, all prime hunting grounds for leopards. On one occasion, she was sighted around camp with an impala kill, feeding with her cub.

We also tracked down sightings of two cheetahs around Dead Trees Marshes during the first week of May. However, they moved westward towards Spillway. Tracks and impala alarm calls were followed, and another male cheetah was observed marking its territory in Paradise Island’s northwest.

Mokoro trips at 4 Rivers

The landscape displayed handsome contrasts with drying grasses and green floodplains. The arrival of floods brought a vibrant display of colours, attracting aquatic animals like the red lechwe to wade in the water. We enjoyed longer mokoro excursions, spotting frogs and watching birds. Various bird species were seen in different locations, including around the camp surroundings, with bee-eaters, rollers, waders, and eagles being logged. Walking safaris provided opportunities to observe general wildlife and learn about tracking.

By Rachael Reed

Monitor lizards and striped skinks were observed during day drives, while other reptiles like snakes remained elusive due to the cooling seasonal changes. Herds of elephants, dazzles of zebras, and small herds of sables, roans, and tsessebes were also spotted across all areas, making for fantastic general game viewing. Large herds of buffaloes were sighted along the flood plains, drawn by fresh tillers.

Leopard vs buffalo vs hyenas

A gripping sighting of another leopard along Fox Road had guests watching the cat battling with hyenas for a buffalo calf. The calf fought valiantly for survival despite sustaining a broken spine from hyena bites, and eventually both the leopard and buffalo cow gave up on the youngster as it succumbed to the pack of hyenas.

4 Rivers game Drive

Hyenas have been spotted around 4 Rivers Lediba and along Mokoro and Airstrip Road. We witnessed a battle between hyenas and lions around 4 Rivers Lagoon, where six lions were surrounded, and the hyenas took over their reedbuck carcass. Social interactions among hyena members were also observed, often signalled by their distinctive laughing calls.

Dances with painted wolves

There were fantastic wild dog sightings, with a pack of seven staying in the area for two weeks. They moved around the western areas and north through Mopane Woodland, displaying denning behaviour, particularly the alpha female who is heavily pregnant. Witnessing their chase and catch of a male reedbuck west of JD Crossing was particularly thrilling. The speed and coordination of the pack were truly impressive, and it was a sight to behold as they worked together to bring down their prey.

Springhares, African civets, genets, wild cats, and bush babies were sighted during night drives returning to camp. These nocturnal creatures were most active during the early hours of the evening, providing us with a unique opportunity to observe their behaviours in their natural habitat.

The weather was mostly clear and sunny, providing us with excellent visibility for wildlife spotting. At night, the sky offered breathtaking views during night drives, with a beautiful pink light after sunset followed by bright stars and the Milky Way, including the Southern Cross constellation.

(Please note: For the safety of the animals, we do not disclose the precise location of either rhino or pangolin sightings. Accompanying pictures are from our Kwando Photo Library which consists of all your great photo submissions over the years, it may not be the most up to date, but we felt it was worthy of a feature alongside this month’s Sightings Report!)

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Tau Pan Camp, May 2024

A pack of 12 African wild dogs was an exciting find near the camp waterhole early one morning.

They were seen heading east along Carlos Road. A dramatic scene unfolded as three black-backed jackals scavenged on a wild dog carcass, suggesting a lion attack.

Cheetah sightings included two males frequently seen around Tau Pan. One male was often located at marking posts, emphasizing territorial behaviours.

The night skies of Tau Pan Camp in May were a stargazer’s dream. Guests marvelled at constellations like the Southern Cross with its prominent pointers, the red giant star Betelgeuse, and Scorpio with its bright star Antares. The Milky Way, stretching across the sky, offered a stunning view of our galaxy, estimated to contain up to 400 billion stars and be about 13.4 billion years old. A sight that can only be truly appreciated in the vastness of the Kalahari!

A single brown hyena was a regular visitor around the camp waterhole, adding to the diversity of nocturnal sightings.

The lions and leopards of Tau Pan

Early in the month, a solitary male lion was frequently spotted patrolling along the airstrip and western fire roads. The resident Tau Pan pride, consisting of seven lionesses and one male, made several appearances around the camp, often venturing to the airstrip and drinking from the camp’s waterhole. An exciting encounter involved this pride’s male joining another pride to mate, resulting in fascinating behaviour displays.

Tau Pan Lioness

A highlight was observing a pride of four lions at Passarge waterhole, while another pride known as the Airstrip Pride was seen with a gemsbok carcass along Aardvark Road. Additionally, a lioness was often heard roaring near room 1, trying to locate her pride. Towards the end of the month, mating pairs and various prides were seen in strategic hunting positions, although not all hunts were successful.

A female leopard was first spotted along Aardvark Road, actively hunting. Another leopardess was seen resting under a shepherd tree along Carlos Road. One remarkable event involved a leopardess ambushing and successfully killing a scrub hare, while another was observed feeding on a steenbok carcass up a tree. These leopards exhibited their typical stealth and precision, providing guests with unforgettable moments.

Thrills at the waterhole

Drawn by the remaining water sources, May brought an impressive array of general game to Tau Pan Camp. Guests enjoyed sightings of solitary males, breeding herds, and bachelor groups of gemsboks, red hartebeests, springboks, greater kudus, steenboks, bushbuck, southern giraffes, African elephants, and blue wildebeests.

Small mammals, including black-backed jackals, cape ground squirrels, honey badgers, slender and yellow mongooses, scrub hares, and bat-eared foxes, were abundant. Guests also enjoyed sightings of a serval and an African wild cat along Tau Pan.

Central Kalahari Tau Pan

Bird sightings included Kalahari scrub robins, common ostriches, pale chanting and Gabar goshawks, lanner and red-necked falcons, bateleurs, white-backed vultures, pririt batis, southern pied babblers, white-browed sparrow weavers, cape glossy starlings, Kori bustards, northern black and red-crested korhaans, capped wheatears, fawn-coloured and rufous naped larks, violet-eared waxbills, black-chested prinias, scaly-feathered finches, southern yellow-billed and African grey hornbills, zitting cisticolas, Burchell sandgrouses, cape vultures, spotted eagle owls, chestnut-vented tit-babblers, Sabota larks, long-billed crombecs, crimson-breasted shrikes, blue waxbills, and eastern clapper larks.

(Please note: For the safety of the animals, we do not disclose the precise location of either rhino or pangolin sightings. Accompanying pictures are from our Kwando Photo Library which consists of all your great photo submissions over the years, it may not be the most up to date, but we felt it was worthy of a feature alongside this month’s Sightings Report!)

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Dinare Camps, May 2024

The resident coalition of four cheetah brothers offered some of the most exciting moments of the month. Guides logged up to 14 cheetahs in the area!

Our guides’ exceptional tracking skills led to some astonishing scenes, such as the four brothers working in perfect unison to bring down an impala.

One family of cheetahs, consisting of a mother and her four subadults, was also frequently observed. Then, another family of cheetahs, consisting of a mother with four tiny cubs, was located, adding to the camp’s cheetah population.

Big cats and big sightings at the Dinare Private Reserve

Lion sightings at Dinare Camps were abundant during May. At Rra Dinare, lions were spotted six out of seven days. The resident pride of five—one adult female, three subadult males, and one subadult female—frequently moved between Mma Dinare and Rra Dinare. Early in the month, we were captivated by a lioness and her three cubs near Room 9 at Mma Dinare. We watched in awe as they feasted on a kudu, their kill barely half an hour old.

As the month progressed, we witnessed Tee’s pride at a nearby Island before they crossed into the Moremi Game Reserve. By the end of May, the powerful Gomoti boys, two male lions, were seen feeding on a hippo west of Rra Dinare Camp.

Leopard sightings were equally extraordinary, particularly involving the resident male known as Mr Ralebodu. He was seen frequently moving between the two camps.

On one occasion, guests witnessed an incredible spectacle as Mr Ralebodu took down a kudu right in front of the game drive vehicles. This thrilling encounter provided a rare opportunity to observe a leopard’s hunting prowess from start to finish.

Additionally, a female leopard was often seen feeding on her kills, providing ample viewing opportunities.

Will the wild dogs den at Dinare this year?

African wild dogs provided several thrilling encounters. The pack of 18, including two heavily pregnant females, was seen frequently preparing burrows for their soon-to-be-born pups. A particularly memorable sighting involved following the pack as they hunted and successfully took down a kudu.

Both brown and spotted hyenas were regularly observed. Trackers discovered an active hyena den near Old Dibatana Camp, allowing guests to see hyena pups playing and interacting with adult hyenas. 

What is the water level like on the Gomoti River?

The rising water levels in the Gomoti River, a natural phenomenon, were a sight to behold. The increased water availability not only revitalized the landscape but also allowed for mokoro activities, providing an immersive traditional experience for guests.

Gomoti River

The general game around Dinare Camps was impressive, especially as animals congregated near the river due to drying waterholes. Guests enjoyed sightings of large herds of elephants, buffalos, impalas, red lechwes, tsessebes, wildebeests, giraffes, and more. The riverbanks, lush with green grass, became a hotspot for wildlife viewing.

Birdwatching remained rewarding despite the dry conditions. The arrival of fresher floodwaters in the Gomoti River brought an influx of aquatic birds, such as saddle-billed storks, egrets, jacanas, and fish eagles. Raptors like bateleur eagles, brown snake eagles, and numerous vultures were frequently seen feeding on leftovers from predator kills. Marabou storks and other scavengers added to the diverse avian sightings.

(Please note: For the safety of the animals, we do not disclose the precise location of either rhino or pangolin sightings. Accompanying pictures are from our Kwando Photo Library which consists of all your great photo submissions over the years, it may not be the most up to date, but we felt it was worthy of a feature alongside this month’s Sightings Report!)

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Nxai Pan Camp, May 2024


Spotted hyenas were frequently seen this month. Four were observed drinking early in the morning at the camp waterhole, only to be ambushed.

The lions, stealthily approaching from the tall grass, launched a surprise attack, scattering the hyenas in all directions. The lions chased the hyenas away, but managed to catch and kill one, a standard behaviour to reduce competition for food. The distinctive calls of both species were a regular nocturnal soundtrack at Nxai Pan Camp.

There was an abundance of black-backed jackals, especially at the camp waterhole. They were feeding on the remains of the hyena killed by lions, taking advantage of the lion’s leftovers. Numerous white-backed, white-headed, and lappet-faced vultures likewise fed on the carcass, forming a typical scavenger scene.

Sunbathing aardwolves and busy badgers

Aardwolves established a den at Baboon Loop and along West Road, and we frequently observed them basking in the winter sun. Two honey badgers were also seen most mornings when exploring around Baobab Loop.

The resident pride of five lions was regularly seen, providing thrilling encounters. One morning, we tracked them to the middle road towards the wildlife waterhole near South Camp, where they had taken down a wildebeest and feasted all day. The pride was also observed at the wildlife waterhole, unsuccessfully attempting to hunt kudus and springboks.

This month, we located a female leopard resting in the shade along the main road just before the South Gate on the way from Baines Baobabs and saw several other animals on these expeditions. Two rock monitor lizards were located en route (and another was regularly seen on a Terminalia tree along the road to the airstrip). Trackers identified African wild dog tracks along the main road just past the South Gate, and a black mamba crossed the main road on another Baines’ Baobabs day trip, rearing up as we approached. We saw plenty of oryx near Baines’ Baobabs themselves, including groups with young calves.

Elephant rituals and buffalo behaviour at the camp waterhole

Bat-eared foxes were frequently seen foraging, and springboks grazed on the nutritious grass of Nxai Pan, often alongside impalas. The pans, covered with a fine layer of white silt rich in sodium carbonate, offered a unique and breathtaking panorama, especially around the Baines Baobabs region. Blue wildebeests were a daily sight, as were giraffes, sometimes seen sparring. African elephants were a typical highlight, caught engaging in water-drinking rituals and thermoregulation by mud-bathing, which also helps remove parasites. Their ear flapping helps them to cool down because the blood is cooled in their capillaries.

A large breeding herd of buffalo also visited the camp waterhole, often seen in the company of a dominant bull. The submissive behaviour displayed when elephants encountered these buffaloes was fascinating to observe.

Cute baby elephant at Nxai Pan

Insect activity was colourful, with many dragonflies seen hovering over water sources. Butterflies such as the African monarch, yellow pansy, scarlet tip, painted lady flew across the skies. Dragonflies, including red busker, and red-veined dropwing were prevalent. Antlions, both in their larval stage and as adults around lodge lights, were engrossing to observe. These fascinating insects are known for their unique hunting technique, where they dig conical pits in sandy soil and wait at the bottom for unsuspecting prey to fall in. Among the spiders, the most notable were baboon, flat wall, and golden orb-web spiders. We also saw a Cape cobra basking in the sun on the pan.

Cape turtle doves, blacksmith lapwings, and Burchell’s sandgrouse were regular visitors to the waterholes, especially in the mornings and late afternoons. These birds rely on the waterholes for their hydration needs. Other notable birds included marico flycatchers, chat flycatchers, crimson-breasted shrikes, double-banded coursers, and the majestic kori bustards. Northern black korhaans were also frequently seen and heard.

Last but not least, The Makgadikgadi night skies in May were genuinely mesmerizing. Prominent constellations such as Scorpius, Orion, Carina, the Southern Cross, Taurus, and Boötes were visible, along with notable stars like Antares in Scorpio and Sirius in Canis Major. 

(Please note: For the safety of the animals, we do not disclose the precise location of either rhino or pangolin sightings. Accompanying pictures are from our Kwando Photo Library which consists of all your great photo submissions over the years, it may not be the most up to date, but we felt it was worthy of a feature alongside this month’s Sightings Report!)

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Pom Pom Camp, May 2024

Aardvarks were seen on four different occasions, a rare and exciting occurrence!

The month started with a bang as we enjoyed watching African wild dogs corner a wildebeest near the campfire area during breakfast on 2 May.

The wild dogs later chased and killed an impala within the camp, providing a thrilling spectacle for our guests. We followed them to their den about 2km from the camp, where the alpha female, heavily pregnant, indicated that the pack might soon welcome new pups. The wild dogs were often seen hunting and drinking from the lagoon in front of the camp, which was slowly filling with water from the annual flood.

Birdlife flourished as these waters from Angola began flowing into our area, attracting wattled cranes, spur-winged geese, saddle-billed storks, open-billed storks, egrets, herons, pratincoles, plovers, and marabou storks.

Wild dogs Pom Pom Camp

Another thrilling interaction occurred during a game drive when 13 wild dogs killed a male red lechwe in the water, only for the kill to be hijacked by 11 spotted hyenas! Two lionesses then attempted to steal the kill but were chased off by the strong clan of hyenas.

Hyena drama and eight leopards on the prowl

Hyenas were a constant presence, often seen during both morning and night drives. One game drive, 12 hyenas stole a wild dog kill in the shallow water near Xinega. A dramatic scene unfolded as a clan of hyenas emerged from the bush, chased off the wild dogs, and devoured the prey alive. This gruesome spectacle attracted three female lions who attempted to claim the kill but were outnumbered and driven away by the hyenas. Additionally, hyenas were frequently seen in front of the camp, sometimes chasing lions or scavenging around kills.

Hyeanas of Pom Pom

Leopard sightings were equally impressive, with around eight different leopards observed throughout the concession. A particularly memorable sighting involved a mother and her six-month-old cub, mostly seen during night drives. On one occasion, we saw them feeding near the camp, only to be disrupted by two hyenas. The cub quickly climbed a tree while the mother circled protectively below. This dramatic scene occurred at Hamerkop Crossing. On another day, we found the mother chasing her elder daughter, both bearing wounds from their fight. 

Another exciting drive revealed the same female was seen walking with her cub near Giraffe Skull area. Another female leopard at Marula Island managed to recover her meal from a hyena and took it up a tree, where she was later found with a second kill, a warthog, enjoying her feast for a week.

What is the lion activity like at Pom Pom Camp?

Two dominant male lions roamed near the camp, frequently seen mating with two females. These powerful lions were repeatedly spotted drinking from the Pom Pom Lagoon in front of the camp during breakfast and dinner times, their roars resonating through the night, giving our guests a true taste of the wild.

The local Pom Pom Pride has split into three groups due to the lack of a dominant male, forcing the females and their cubs into a nomadic lifestyle to evade other male lions. We witnessed a dramatic encounter where two males chased a female and her cubs. One brave female risked her life defending the cubs, resulting in a limp after the confrontation. Further north, a pride of five (one male, two females, and two cubs) was occasionally spotted. Later in the month, after tracking for 25 minutes, we followed two lionesses walking along the Motjimbamo floodplains, leading us to their three cubs near the pan along the boundary.

We observed a male and a female cheetah moving in and out of the area. Late in the month, we found a lonely cub about six months old calling for its mother, who was later found with three cubs about a kilometre away. The coalition was also seen along Xinega floodplains, and the next day, near Letswai, it headed towards the boundary.

Civets, genets, scrub hares, and wild cats were commonly spotted on night drives and early morning outings and the concession offered rich and diverse wildlife sightings during the day. Large dazzles of zebras, wildebeests, tsessebes, red lechwe, impalas, reedbucks, kudus, giraffes, buffaloes, herds of elephants, baboons, monkeys, bushbucks, warthogs, and jackals. Porcupines and aardvarks were also spotted this month, particularly in Motjimbamo Island and the 1st Hippo Pool.

(Please note: For the safety of the animals, we do not disclose the precise location of either rhino or pangolin sightings. Accompanying pictures are from our Kwando Photo Library which consists of all your great photo submissions over the years, it may not be the most up to date, but we felt it was worthy of a feature alongside this month’s Sightings Report!)

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Lebala Camp, May 2024

A territorial battle between two male leopards, Fisherman and Mr Muscle, played out for nearly three weeks. 

These formidable cats vied for dominance, engaging in physical confrontations. One such encounter left Fisherman severely injured, appearing lifeless after a vicious neck bite from Mr Muscle. Yet, he defied the odds, surviving and later marking his territory, his wounds serving as proud battle scars. Alongside these males, we’ve had frequent sightings of females, including one whose impala kill was snatched by a hyena.

Majestic and Plentiful: Sable antelopes and Elands

General game viewing has been spectacular. Giraffes were seen in large numbers, often mingling with other species in the woodlands. Elephants visited the river in significant herds, providing breathtaking moments as they bathed and drank. We also consistently had sightings of a relaxed herd of sable antelopes, including a huge male, and sizable herds of elands, some numbering up to 40 individuals.

Eland Kwando

The Dominant Trio: Lion Kings of Kwando

There was an influx of lions at Lebala, likely driven by the scarcity of waterholes, which brought these magnificent creatures closer to our nearby river.

The pride’s three dominant males have been patrolling the halfway area between Lagoon and Lebala, ensuring their territory remains secure across the Kwando Private Concession. We’ve observed them hunting warthogs and wildebeest, though not all attempts were successful. Interestingly, one female shows signs of lactation, hinting at new cubs hidden away. The pride’s cubs are growing well, and their playful antics have been a delight to watch.

Our night drives were a treasure trove of unique sightings. Winter is the prime time for aardwolf encounters, and we were fortunate to spot many of these elusive nocturnal creatures. Day drives were equally rewarding, with regular sightings of African wild cats, dwarf mongooses, and slender mongooses. And the thrill of spotting African civets at night added to the excitement of our safari.

Rewarding birdwatching included numerous sightings of brown snake eagles, bateleur eagles, secretary birds, and a variety of water birds. Nature walks through the drying landscape were enriched with sightings of a few remaining flowers and various animal skulls, adding to the educational and immersive experience of exploring the bush on foot.

Crocodiles basking along the channels were a common sight, although monitor lizards and other reptiles were less active as the season changed.

The winter skies were clear and brilliant, providing stunning views of constellations. The lack of clouds enhanced our stargazing experiences, revealing the winter constellations, such as Scorpio, in their full glory.

(Please note: For the safety of the animals, we do not disclose the precise location of either rhino or pangolin sightings. Accompanying pictures are from our Kwando Photo Library which consists of all your great photo submissions over the years, it may not be the most up to date, but we felt it was worthy of a feature alongside this month’s Sightings Report!)

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Lagoon Camp, May 2024

Aardwolves were a common sight this month. We observed two aardwolves courting just five minutes east of Lagoon Camp, although one was later killed by the Holi pride.

Another aardwolf was seen marking its den site at the second lagoon.

The first week in the bush was dominated by the imposing presence of the Holi pride, a formidable group of over 26 lions, including the last two males from the Ralebante coalition. Their most dramatic display came when they took down a hippo along the main road, a rare event that disrupted the usual peace in the area. Two days later, the remaining two lionesses from the Mma D splinter pride made their own successful hunt, taking down a waterbuck east of camp.

The Holi pride was seen along Diolo, finishing off a tsessebe kill, with another male joining later to finish the meal. The Holi pride spent much of the week around camp, leading to some dramatic moments. One evening, as we were having dinner, we witnessed a commotion east of camp and saw three males running through the camp to escape the resident males. One male was severely injured and spent the next week recovering east of camp.

Buffalo bonanza

The start of winter brought cooler temperatures, altering animal movements. General game was abundant, with hotspots like Muddy Waters, 1st and 2nd Lagoon, Bee Eater’s Island, and areas in front of camp teeming with wildlife. Zebras, wildebeests, giraffes, roans, sables, elands, and hippos were frequently seen basking in the sun until late evening.

Buffalo

Buffalo sightings were abundant, with 12 bulls regularly seen around Rakgolo Mogobe, Firewood Pan, Pan Road, Xokotshaa Oasis, and in front of camp. A large breeding herd was also spotted moving north through the mopane woodland, a behaviour often observed during the dry season when they search for better grazing areas.

The splintered lion pride

A splinter group from the Holi Pride, consisting of five lionesses and nine cubs, was found resting at Phuwas in their corner of the Kwando Private Concession. They moved towards the river for a drink before retreating into the Terminalia bushes to rest. This successful establishment of a new pride contributes to the overall lion population in the area. Another pride with five cubs was located near the Munhumutapa islands. The coalition of two males was locating resting and calling south of camp, adding to the lion-heavy start of our month.

Lion at Lagoon Camp

Continued lion activity included two lionesses hunting along Middle Road, while another pair with a young cub hunted warthogs at Water Cut but failed. Meanwhile, the smaller Mma Mosethla pride of four was seen on an impala kill, with a female leopard nearby, likely having lost its kill to the lions. Vultures were commonly seen at kill sites, including the rare white-headed vulture, white-backed vultures, lappet-faced, and hooded vultures.

Resident male cheetahs, Boiki and Boy Boy, were frequently seen patrolling west of the cutline. They were also observed courting a female cheetah. A female cheetah with two young cubs, about three months old, was located hunting at John’s Pan. They were seen again the next day, resting and well-fed.

A busy Spotted hyena den

Spotted hyenas were frequently located at Zebra Pan and other areas. After several sightings, we tracked them to a large den west of the pan, housing over 12 young ones and numerous adults. This den is a key social hub for the hyenas, where they interact, play, and learn important social skills. At one point, 21 hyenas were counted at the den!

A female leopard, Mma Mazabuka, was seen several times with her two subadults along the main road. We spotted another female leopard near Zebra Pan, initially on a hunt, but later found her with a kill hidden in a nearby tree. A young male leopard was seen hunting near the river east of camp but aborted the hunt. Mma Mazabuka and her subadults often patrolled Marapo a Thuthwa, moving towards Rakgolo Road. Less than 100 meters from where they rested, her older sibling, Mazabuka, was seen patrolling from the second lagoon past the airstrip to Muddy Waters and as far west as Zebra Pan. The young female from the previous litter was also spotted several times on hunts. Along Pan Road, we witnessed two male leopards, known as “the twins” Mazabuka and Raboyi, feeding on a warthog, taking turns to eat. A shy male leopard was seen at Pan Road, while another lactating female became a regular sight and was witnessed hunting several times west of the airstrip.

Though there were no direct sightings of wild dogs, we found tracks of three separate packs at different locations.

Small mammal safari

The area teemed with small mammals, including spring hares, porcupines, honey badgers, various mongoose species (yellow, dwarf, slender, banded, white-tailed), bush babies, steenbok, scrub hares, bat-eared foxes, and both black-backed and side-striped jackals.

Birdwatching was excellent, with sightings of marabou and yellow-billed storks, open-billed storks, and various raptors, including long-crested eagles, near Phuwas.

The lower Kwando River water levels created feeding frenzies for aquatic birds like herons, egrets, and snake eagles. Large flocks of pelicans frequented the drying pools and lagoons. We also spotted African rock pythons and water monitor lizards along the riverside and crocodiles basking in the sun during drives. Puff adders were common sightings, especially after dark, when clear night skies offered beautiful stargazing opportunities, with prominent constellations and stars visible.

(Please note: For the safety of the animals, we do not disclose the precise location of either rhino or pangolin sightings. Accompanying pictures are from our Kwando Photo Library which consists of all your great photo submissions over the years, it may not be the most up to date, but we felt it was worthy of a feature alongside this month’s Sightings Report!)

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Kwara and Splash Camp, May 2024

During mokoro rides, guests spotted painted and long-reed frogs in the channels twisting around the Kwara Private Concession and its shifting landscape.

Sunset boat cruises were consistently delightful, offering sightings of elephants crossing the river, large crocodiles basking on riverbeds, and hippos grazing in the Okavango waters. Notably, a Pel’s fishing owl was spotted along the Maonachira channel a few times, and guides noted that water flow in the main channel increased, indicating recent floods. We expect the floodplains to be replenished soon.

The onset of winter was visible in the landscapes, with some trees shedding their leaves and grasses trampled by elephants and herds of buffaloes, creating better game viewing opportunities.

A beautiful black-footed cat

Night game drives revealed the world of smaller mammals and nocturnal predators. Servals, civets, small spotted cats, and other species were frequently observed. One memorable encounter involved witnessing a serval cat hunting and successfully catching a mouse. Additionally, a Black-footed cat, the smallest of the African wild cats was seen hunting close to our vehicle during an evening drive, providing an intimate view of its behaviour. Sightings of small spotted genets, spring hares, bush babies, African wild cats, and servals enriched our night drives.

Hyena dens and African wild dogs digging

Thanks to a den southwest of Puffy and Big Man’s Pan, we had wonderful spotted hyena sightings, allowing us to observe cubs almost daily.

A large clan of hyenas was frequently seen in the western part of Kwara Camp along the firebreak and around some African wild dog kills. One morning, after tracking a pack of 21 wild dogs for 30 minutes, we witnessed them successfully hunt and kill an adult male impala. The same pack was seen in the afternoon, where we followed them as they flushed out common reedbucks. Antelopes scattered in different directions, confusing the dogs, who gave up the chase and walked along the road. Interestingly, five minutes later, we spotted another common reedbuck standing still near the road, unnoticed by the dogs as they passed by.

The same pack was located south of Splash in the floodplains, where they made a kill of three common reedbucks. We found the pack near Sable Island, with the alpha female heavily pregnant and her pack members digging a hole, indicating they may be preparing a new den. Later, the pack was seen east of Splash, crossing into Moremi Game Reserve. The pack divided, with some dogs calling from the other side of the river. We wait with bated breath!

Cheetah update from Kwara

We encountered cheetahs hunting three to four times this month and located them on kills. One subadult male cheetah was tracked for an hour and found east of our boat station, lying on a termite mound next to a common reedbuck, seemingly unaware of the antelope’s presence. An adult male cheetah was spotted southwest of Splash Camp, successfully killing a piglet near the Lechwe Plains area. A female cheetah was located along Gomms Crossing, feeding on a warthog, and another male cheetah was seen hunting warthogs east of Splash but was unsuccessful.

Cheetah kill at Kwara

A lot of lion sightings!

General game viewing was exceptional. Large herds of elephants and buffaloes frequently drank water at the lagoon in front of Kwara Camp. Sizable herds of buffaloes, including a massive herd of over one thousand individuals, were observed west of Kwara Camp. The drying waterholes concentrated animals along the seasonal floodplains, enhancing game viewing opportunities for sable antelopes, giraffes, zebras, kudus, waterbucks, hippos, red lechwe, common reedbucks, and tsessebe antelopes. Smaller species like steenboks were spotted in the open areas.

Lion sightings this month highlighted the intricate social structures, hunting strategies, and territorial behaviours of the prides at Kwara and Splash Camps.

Lion at Splash Camp

At Splash Camp, the Kwando trackers worked diligently. One morning, after a two-hour tracking session north of the boat station, they located the resident Mopane pride of nine lions. The pride was actively hunting buffalo, but unfortunately, it was unsuccessful. Later, the same Mopane pride was observed north of Waterbuck Pan, moving into the bushes.

Late in May, the Kwara pride was involved in a dramatic encounter with two male leopards over an impala carcass. The leopards were forced up a tree by the lions, who fed on the fallen impala. After the lions left, the leopards descended, providing a memorable sighting for our guests.

Another pride consisting of two lionesses with six cubs of varying sizes was seen south of Ngorongoro Plains, feeding on a female waterbuck early in the morning. The Mma Leitho pride was located south of Ngorongoro, feeding on a waterbuck carcass. This pride was consistently spotted with cubs, but sadly, one cub was noted missing, and its fate remains unknown.

Males sure flexed their territorial muscles this month. Two dominant male lions were located west of the old boat station. An hour later, a new subadult male appeared, leading to a dramatic chase by the dominant males, forcing the newcomer to flee into the bushes. Mid-month, another intruder male lion was spotted late in the evening near the airstrip during a night game drive, marking his territory in the bushes. Three brothers from the Kwara pride were also located mating with a young female from a different pride. The dominant male among the brothers was in charge of mating while the other two rested nearby.

Two lionesses were seen hunting a red lechwe antelope at Last Mabala, but failed. The Kwara pride was again located northeast of Bat-eared Fox area, feeding on a buffalo early in the morning. We spent considerable time observing their feeding behaviour, and later, many hyenas attempted to outcompete the lions but were unsuccessful.

A pride of five females and one male was located at Bat-eared Fox along the floodplains, stalking wildebeest. However, baboons spoiled their hunt by making alarm calls from the trees.

More big cats spotted

A female leopard was seen resting atop a leadwood tree, keenly watching a kudu approaching but choosing not to make a move. A subadult male leopard was located east of Room 1 at Splash Camp with an impala kill, remarkably well hidden from other predators. A mating pair of leopards was observed south of Splash, crossing into an inaccessible island.

Further encounters included two male leopards of different ages engaging in a territorial dispute along Buffalo Road. The mating pair from earlier in the month was seen again near Impala and heading towards Machaba East. A relaxed male leopard was sighted atop a termite mound, providing a perfect opportunity for prolonged observation. That evening, a young female leopard sat perched on a sausage tree along the firebreak upon returning from a boat activity.

Later in May, a male leopard was located close to Kwara Camp during a night game drive. He was very relaxed as he moved towards the woodland from the marsh, marking his territory.

(Please note: For the safety of the animals, we do not disclose the precise location of either rhino or pangolin sightings. Accompanying pictures are from our Kwando Photo Library which consists of all your great photo submissions over the years, it may not be the most up to date, but we felt it was worthy of a feature alongside this month’s Sightings Report!)

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