Month: April 2024

4 Rivers Camp, April 2024

4 Rivers Camp, April 2024

Published April 30, 2024 by Kwando Safaris

After a mokoro excursion, fresh tracks led us to two male cheetahs resting under a mopane tree in the open floodplains.

One of the males marked several spots before they both headed west.

African wild dog sightings were a highlight! A pack of seven traversed the river at JD’s Crossing, a popular spot for wildlife crossings, and again north of the Paradise area, a lush and diverse habitat.

During one particularly exhilarating game drive, a solitary male African wild dog was seen investigating some blue bushes. In a heart-pounding turn of events, it suddenly gave chase and, after a 25-minute struggle, managed to seize an African civet! It fed on the civet, and we noted that the wild dog had a broken front left leg and was nabbing any opportunity for food.

Will I see lions at 4 Rivers Camp?

Early in the month, we tracked a pride of four lions, including a mother with a cub about four months old and two subadults north of the Paradise area. This pride was frequently seen on kills, providing fantastic viewing opportunities. Later in April, we encountered another pride of 18 lions, including three dominant males, feasting on a buffalo.

The same three males were spotted east of 4 Rivers Camp, following a large herd of buffaloes. We trailed them for a while before they decided to rest under the bushes. Another pride of six lionesses with one cub was seen at 4 Rivers Lediba. Although they attempted to stalk some wildebeest, alarm calls from impalas thwarted their hunt, forcing them to move further east. A young male lion and his mother were found northeast of the camp. The young male unsuccessfully attempted to hunt buffalo while his mother watched lazily from the grass.

Elephants in camp and a watery wonderland

General game sightings were abundant, with elephants crossing the river in front of the camp, providing spectacular views. Roan antelopes and sable were present in good numbers, along with a massive herd of over a thousand buffaloes west of the concession. Giraffes, zebras, kudus, waterbucks, hippos, red lechwes, common reedbucks, and tsessebes were also commonly seen, with many young animals adding to the wildlife scene.

We located a female leopard with her four-month-old cub in the woodlands west of the camp. They were spotted again during a night drive. Two leopards were also seen at the Tsum Tsum area on a kill, although they retreated into the bushes upon our arrival.

Seasonal floodplains, areas that are periodically flooded and provide rich feeding grounds for wildlife, started to fill with water, and blooming plants attracted numerous insects and insect-eating birds. Walks were fantastic, and April was a season for wildflowers, observing insect life and small reptiles. We also had the opportunity to cautiously approach elephants and buffalo during nature walks on Maboa Island. Drying natural pans in the woodlands pushed elephants and buffaloes toward the riverine areas, where they enjoyed the fresh, green grass. Crocodiles fed on the trapped catfish in some of these pans.

Nature’s marvels during a mokoro ride

During our mokoro activities, where we navigated the channels in traditional dugout canoes, some painted and long-reed frogs remained visible. Guests also had terrific sightings of water birds from a lower perspective, such as the malachite kingfisher and African jacanas. Both species of waterlilies beautified the channels with their gorgeous colours.

(Please note: For the safety of the animals, we do not disclose the precise location of either rhino or pangolin sightings. Accompanying pictures are from our Kwando Photo Library which consists of all your great photo submissions over the years, it may not be the most up to date, but we felt it was worthy of a feature alongside this month’s Sightings Report!)

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Tau Pan Camp, April 2024

Tau Pan Camp, April 2024

Published April 30, 2024 by Kwando Safaris

Driving through Tau Pan is like moving through a painting, with autumn colours of yellow, brown, green, and red.

While some areas are dry, others, particularly towards Litiahau and Lekhubu Campsite, remain green. Recent rains rejuvenated the grass despite the approaching winter season, offering a stunning contrast against the green trees and newly sprouted shoots in previously burnt areas.

Birdwatching was fantastic, highlighted by a fork-tailed drongo spotting an African rock python in a tree. The snake remained in the same spot for three weeks, providing a fascinating long-term observation.

We encountered the Tau Pan pride right outside the dining room one day, curiously observing us before moving to the waterhole. It was an unforgettable moment as we watched them interact with their surroundings. We went on a thrilling tracking adventure, following the pride’s tracks from the waterhole to the west towards the firebreak. Despite the hard ground obscuring the tracks, our skilled guides relied on their expertise to locate the pride, which we found feeding on a gemsbok they had hunted early that morning.

We located two cheetahs in the Letiahau Valley, seemingly separated and calling for each other. One of them found himself amidst a large herd of gemsbok, which stood their ground and chased him away. The following day, we found the brother along San Pan exhibiting hunting behaviour, though no prey was visible. It’s always fascinating to observe these speedy predators in action.

Wildlife at the busy waterhole

A brown hyena drank from the waterhole. These timid creatures have typically been seen once a month, making this encounter particularly special.

An elephant bull displayed typical musth behaviour, creating an intense and exhilarating experience for our guests as it fed near the camp. A bushbuck was also seen, adding to the diversity of sightings.

Tau Pan’s diverse landscape provided fantastic general game sightings, especially with the light rains bringing life to the area. Yellow mongooses, slender mongooses, and two caracals were logged. Springbok, red hartebeest, bushbuck, kudus, giraffes, gemsbok, wildebeest, bat-eared foxes, black-backed jackals, and ground squirrels were abundant. Southern pale chanting goshawks were observed stealing food from honey badgers. Other notable sightings included tawny eagles, violet-eared waxbills, weavers, thick-knees, and various shrikes.

Our knowledgeable Kalahari guides provided enriching bush walks, sharing cultural insights about traditional living, finding food, bushcraft, and medicinal uses of plants. Guests learned about tracking and survival skills, enhancing their understanding and appreciation of the natural world.

Ants were seen dragging a dead grasshopper to their hole, and a leopard tortoise was found on the move. A puff adder near the road prompted various species to give warning calls. Ball biter ants, ground beetles, and dung beetles were also observed around elephant dung.

The night sky at Tau Pan was a celestial wonder, with clear views of Orion’s Belt, Canis Major, Canis Minor, Taurus, Corvus, the Milky Way, and the Seven Sisters. Stargazing here is a magical experience, with the lack of light pollution offering a pristine view of the cosmos.

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Moremi Crossing, April 2024

Moremi Crossing, April 2024

Published April 30, 2024 by Kwando Safaris

Records showed a two-week string of seeing a big cat on every game drive at Moremi Crossing. Close encounters that allowed our guests to truly appreciate the beauty and power of these magnificent creatures in the wild.

We frequently observed three male lions that appeared to have become separated from their pride of six after the tragic death of a lioness, who was killed by a warthog at the Gunns Camp staff village.

These males were often seen patrolling and asserting their dominance. One day, a male lion dramatically killed and took down a buffalo at Sibanda Island. His roars echoed through the night, calling for his pride and providing guests with an “African Choir.”

The same day, our resident female leopard, Neo, showcased her hunting prowess by taking down a common reedbuck and skillfully hoisting it into a tree to avoid scavengers. Hyenas were seen gathering below, drawn by the scent of the kill and scratching at the blood on the tree bark, highlighting the intense dynamics of predator and scavenger.

African wild dogs vs a band of banded bandits

A pack of twenty-one African wild dogs frequently visited Gunn’s Private Concession. One afternoon, our guests witnessed an intense and fascinating encounter between the wild dogs and a group of banded mongooses. In a remarkable display of teamwork, the mongooses formed a defensive ball to fend off the wild dogs. Banded mongooses banding together in defensive theatrics!

A new hyena den was discovered at Fridge Island, home to just born cubs. Guests were captivated by the sight of these youngsters and gained a glimpse into the early lives of these fascinating creatures. Hyena cubs are born with their eyes open, which is unusual for many carnivores. They also have fully erupted teeth at birth, allowing them to compete aggressively for food from an early age.

As the main channels dried up, many animals began to congregate. Buffalo were abundant, and there were lots of loose bachelor groups of grumpy-looking dagga boys. A spectacular sight was the presence of around 500 buffalos at Hamerkop Crossing, moving southeast through the concession. The dust clouds kicked up by their movement created an almost ethereal atmosphere. Other frequently sighted species included impalas, tsessebes, kudus, and hyenas, contributing to the rich antelope life in the area.

A leopard sighting after dinner

Breeding herds of elephants paraded along the palm-tree-strewn landscapes, and we often enjoyed watching three hippos in the mud pool near camp. One night, sitting around the fire, impala alarm calls alerted us to the presence of a male leopard moving through the dry channel right in front of camp! Common reedbucks added to the commotion with their own squeaks.

Our guests were equally enchanted by smaller, often overlooked inhabitants. Termites, in particular, were a topic of discussion during nature walks. Known as a keystone species, termites play a crucial role in the ecosystem, building patches of land that eventually form islands. The intricate and vital work of these tiny architects not only offered a profound insight into the interconnectedness of life in the Delta but also underscored the importance of preserving these delicate ecosystems.

Night drives, with the help of spotlights, revealed a variety of smaller mammals. Sightings included scrub hares, honey badgers, leopards, aardvarks, and civets.

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Nxai Pan Camp, April 2024

Nxai Pan Camp, April 2024

Published April 30, 2024 by Kwando Safaris

The large numbers of African elephants engaging in their water-drinking rituals were particularly striking.

A big breeding herd of Cape buffaloes was also a common sight at the camp waterhole, with the big bull displaying a surprising submissiveness to the elephants. Additionally, we saw lots of oryx near Baines Baobab, sometimes with tiny calves, and numerous springboks feeding on the nutritious grass in the pan, sometimes alongside impalas. Blue wildebeests were a daily sight, and we frequently observed towers of giraffes, sometimes solitary bulls.

The resident pride of four lions was seen several times near the eastern side of the South Camp wildlife waterhole, attempting to hunt wildebeests. Although their attempts were unsuccessful, it was thrilling to observe their strategic moves, such as the lioness leading the hunt and the male lions flanking the prey.

Another mating pair of lions was spied at the waterhole for two consecutive days, engaging in typical courtship behaviours like nuzzling and grooming. Later, the lioness was seen alone closer to camp, a behaviour often observed after mating. Occasionally, we heard their roars in the early morning. Two male lions were also seen around the area, but they soon moved towards the Baines Baobabs, possibly in search of new territory.

Dragonflies flitted above the waterholes, feeding on smaller insects. Spotted hyenas regularly visited the waterhole in the early mornings to quench their thirst. These fascinating creatures were seen several times, often coming to the water every day. Brown hyena tracks were also spotted on the sandy paths leading to Baines Baobab. Along the pan, we frequently saw aardwolves searching for termites.

We had a brief but exciting encounter with a large male leopard on the main road to Baines’ Baobabs before he quickly disappeared into the bush.

Steenboks were commonly found feeding on green leaves and grasses, alone or in pairs. Black-backed jackals fed on dung beetles, sometimes scattering elephant dung to find termites. Bat-eared foxes were also observed cruising on the pan, foraging for harvester termites.

Snakes and the snake-hunters

The April landscape of Nxai Pan was stunning, with its open vistas, acacia and Terminalia trees. As winter approached, many deciduous trees, such as the baobabs, purple pod terminalias, and umbrella thorns, began losing their leaves, quickly changing the scenery. Butterflies, including African monarchs, yellow pansies, scarlet tips, painted ladies, plus dragonfly species such as red baskers, and red-veined dropwings, added colours to the landscape. The Baines’ Baobabs region continued to offer breathtaking views of the Makgadikgadi Salt Pans. On hot days, the mirage on the pan created the illusion of water in the distance.

We had considerable snake sightings, including a resident puff adder at the lodge, black mambas, and striped-bellied snakes seen feeding on geckos and insects. A rock monitor lizard provided another great reptile sighting along the main road to Baines Baobabs, crawling about in search of food.

Bird-watching sightings included secretarybirds hunting for snakes. The waterholes attracted Cape turtle doves and Burchell’s sandgrouse, providing an impressive aerial display as they came to drink. We also saw lappet-faced and white-backed vultures soaring high, taking advantage of thermals. Other notable birds included marico flycatchers, chat flycatchers, northern black korhaans, double-banded coursers, blacksmith lapwings, and crowned lapwings. The majestic kori bustards, the heaviest flying birds, were also frequently seen.

Antlions in their larval stage ambushed ants, while adult antlions were more commonly seen around the lodge lights.

With short trees, Nxai Pan Camp’s location provided excellent stargazing opportunities, allowing guests to see constellations and planets as they rose. Clear skies on several evenings offered spectacular displays of stars and familiar constellations, including Canopus, Sirius, Scorpio, Taurus, Southern Cross, and Gemini.

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Pom Pom Camp, April 2024

Pom Pom Camp, April 2024

Published April 30, 2024 by Kwando Safaris

In a thrilling encounter, a female leopard in the Drifters area successfully hunted a red lechwe near a water channel, only to face a formidable opponent — a large crocodile that emerged, attempting to steal the kill!

The struggle between the leopard and the crocodile was a sight to behold, with the crocodile ultimately dragging the lechwe into the water.

During our expeditions, we noticed a fascinating trend-we encountered several different male leopards more frequently than females. This could be attributed to the females’ instinct to hide their cubs, making them less visible. One afternoon drive, we spotted a female with one cub west of the airstrip, resting at the base of a termite mound.

A pack of African wild dogs hunted impala around the camp. We followed them as they chased and killed an impala near the welcome area, providing a fantastic viewing experience.

Later in the month, fresh wild dog tracks were found near the Giraffe Skull area leading to Drifters Island, where we found them feeding on a freshly killed red lechwe. Three hyenas rested nearby, waiting for their turn to scavenge.

General game in Pom Pom Concession was outstanding

As winter approached, the sausage trees started to shed old leaves and grow new ones, but there was an abundance of grass and vegetation to sustain the diverse wildlife. Large herds of elephants, wildebeest, impala, red lechwe, tsessebes, buffalo bulls, and giraffes were a common sight. Other sightings included waterbuck, steenbok, warthogs, bushbuck, common reedbuck, baboons, and monkeys.

Zebras have doubled in number and were a frequent sight around the reserve and at the lagoon in front of the lodge, especially at midday and late afternoon. Spotted hyenas were also regular visitors around the camp, particularly during dinner and breakfast, when they came to drink at the waterhole. They were frequently seen on night drives, scavenging and following wild dogs during hunts.

During a morning game drive, we located two subadult male lions and two females feasting on a male red lechwe by Zeppa Island. We picked up lion tracks heading northeast while driving around the Letswai and Drifters areas. After following the tracks for about 30 minutes, we spotted white-backed and hooded vultures perched on trees, indicating a possible kill nearby. We soon discovered part of the Pom Pom Pride — 13 lions —resting under the shade with a zebra carcass.

Additionally, we had two new subadult male intruders whose origins were unknown. They frequently moved around Fisherman Airstrip and were spotted near the lodge. We found these males south of the airstrip, mating with a lioness.

This month, reptile and insect sightings were limited. We spotted a few small Nile crocodiles in some waterholes, water monitor lizards, striped rock agamas, large copper butterflies, dung beetles, monarch butterflies, and praying mantises. Despite the dry lagoon channels and flood plains, bird life remained vibrant. We observed barbets, little bee-eaters, rattling cisticolas, Temminck’s coursers, coppery-tailed coucals, African hawk eagles, bateleurs, brown snake eagles, African hoopoes, southern ground hornbills, and secretarybirds.

During sundowner stops and night drives, we had wonderful sightings of smaller mammals, including honey badgers, African civets, servals, small spotted genets, African wild cats, banded mongooses, scrub hares, side-striped jackals, aardwolves, and aardvark.

The clear skies around the campfire were perfect for stargazing, allowing guests to learn about the stars and planets.

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Lebala Camp, April 2024

Lebala Camp, April 2024

Published April 30, 2024 by Kwando Safaris

This month, we saw two rare oribi antelopes! They can only be found in this northeastern corner of Botswana, and we were thrilled to observe them in their natural habitat.

General game viewing was superb, with large herds of elephants delighting guests as they engaged in mud baths and crossed channels.

Spotted hyenas occasionally appeared, with one memorable sighting of a female carrying her cub in her mouth — a rare behaviour. A brown hyena was also seen near its usual haunt, offering a good view before it retreated.

Birdwatchers were treated to spectacular sightings, particularly of wattled cranes in the marshes and a pair of secretary birds with chicks at Kubu Pan. Migratory birds were less common, but swallow-tailed bee-eaters and striped kingfishers made appearances. Southern ground hornbills also paraded through the grasslands.

Let’s get to the lions and leopards!

Almost every game drive rewarded us with views of lions. The dominant trio of male lions, who rule the territory between Lagoon and Lebala, were often seen with two females and their four-month-old cubs. One particularly captivating moment occurred when an intruding female lion appeared, leading to a dramatic confrontation. The two resident females attacked the intruder, but the three males intervened to restore peace, suggesting that the intruder might be the mother of new cubs sired by one of the males.

The northern part of Kwando Private Concession saw a full-grown male and a subadult male arriving, with the younger male frequently seen mating with his sister. The dominant trio became notably active upon detecting these new males, culminating in a tense standoff where the intruders were scared off by a single roar, leaving us in awe of the dominant males’ presence and vocal power. We also witnessed the females with cubs feasting on a buffalo at Lechwe Corner, their faces and bodies coated in mud, creating an unforgettable sight.

A female leopard with a shy, two-month-old cub was spotted, providing a rare glimpse into their early lives. Another highlight was a young female leopard exhibiting playful behaviour by climbing and leaping between branches, while a young male was observed marking territory. The dominant male, the resident leopard, continues to rule his domain with authority.

A female cheetah was observed marking territory, seemingly searching for two resident males who often frequent the area. The two males were later seen calling for each other, suggesting one might have been with the female.

Inland grasses turned brown, though some trees remained green. The riverine areas retain their lushness, but water levels in the channels are low. Reptile sightings included quick glimpses of various snakes, an olive grass snake, and basking crocodiles along the river channel. Water monitor lizards were also frequently seen enjoying the sun. Night drives revealed a wealth of smaller mammals, including servals hunting in the marsh area, relaxed honey badgers, wild cats in the early morning, and numerous spring and scrub hares.

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Kwara and Splash Camp, April 2024

Kwara and Splash Camp, April 2024

Published April 30, 2024 by Kwando Safaris

The resident female leopard was seen stalking lechwes near Kwara Lagoon, much to the delight of mokoro guests on their afternoon activity.

The Rra Tsebe leopard was frequently seen around Giraffe Pan and Lechwe Plains. It successfully hunted a reedbuck at Pelican Pan before being chased off by lions.

During an extraordinary afternoon drive, we followed a male leopard as he stealthily stalked a sounder of five warthogs — a mother and her four piglets. This family of warthogs, affectionately known as Matirn in camp, are well-known residents of Kwara Camp. Sadly, during this encounter, the mother lost one of her piglets to the leopard.

Another male leopard at Buffalo Pan stalked and killed a warthog. At Splash, various resident leopards were seen, including a male along Impala Pan, another scavenging on a giraffe carcass, and a subadult male near the parking area. Our resident female, Splash Girl, was located with her three-month-old cub, and other females were seen hunting or resting in trees.

The African wild dogs of Kwara and Splash

At Kwara, we witnessed a dramatic encounter where a civet fought off an African wild dog at Last Mabala. After three weeks, the resident pack of 21 African wild dogs returned to Kwara. A new pack of seven dogs, six males and a female, was seen along Graded Road, and another small pack of three dogs was spotted at Last Mabala.

At Splash, the resident pack of 21 wild dogs was seen after vultures led us to a kudu carcass. This pack was later found heading southeast, hunting a fully grown impala. A single dog from a pack of six was located east of Ngayaya Lagoon, calling for its family members.

At Splash, new male cheetahs started appearing, having pushed our resident male, Mr. Special, further west. A young, relaxed male cheetah was seen east of the camp, and a female cheetah hunted red lechwes. The resident male cheetah at Kwara did well, seen at Splash Hippos and Willie’s Valley. A female cheetah, previously known for losing her cubs, was seen hunting lechwes near the fishing boat area.

As winter approached, the landscape started to change rapidly. Leaves and grasses were drying and turning brown, and most animals concentrated along the marginal mixed woodlands and seasonal floodplains, where new grass shoots were emerging.

Lion prides split and reunite over a buffalo meal

The dynamics within the lion prides at Kwara and Splash camps were particularly fascinating. The Kwara pride experienced significant splitting due to hunting challenges, with nine members found across locations from Sethabana to Pelican Pan. Two nursing lionesses with three cubs were frequently seen along the Xugana main road, while a mother with a single cub and four other pride members dominated the Last Mabala area. The pride reunited to kill a buffalo at Sephane sa Mojereman, the first time they had come together in a while.

Meanwhile, the Mma Leitlho pride east of Splash thrived with all six cubs well cared for. This pride faced an invasion from a new pride of 13 lions from the east, although the intruders left the following night. One morning, alarm calls from monkeys led us to the Mma Leitho pride, consisting of two adult lionesses and six cubs of varying sizes. This pride showcased their hunting abilities by killing a blue wildebeest and a tsessebe. The Mopane pride, residing in the northern mopane woodlands, was seen following a large herd of buffaloes. Additionally, a new male lion was spotted along Machaba East.

Reptile sightings included crocodiles, geckos, and side-striped skinks. A black mamba was located within the blue bush, mobbed by birds. Another impressive sight was the large flock of pelicans feasting in a trapped, drying river at the new bridge. Joined by marabou storks and yellow-billed storks, creating a bustling and noisy congregation, the sight and sound of hundreds of these birds feeding were captivating.

Additionally, we observed various water birds feasting on trapped fish in waterholes cut off from the mainstream. Among these were yellow-billed storks, wattled cranes, slaty egrets, white and pink-backed pelicans, and African spoonbills seen around the ponds.

Hyena activity was high, with their calls frequently heard around camp at night. At Kwara, a dead giraffe at Wild Dog Pan attracted over 20 hyenas. A new den with two females and three pups was found on Tau Island.

General game was abundant, with large herds of buffaloes, elephants, and zebras moving towards the main river as the natural waterholes dried up. The camp waterholes attracted a variety of antelope, including greater kudus, impalas, tsessebes, waterbucks, common reedbucks, wildebeests, giraffes, and zebras.

Steenboks were frequently spotted around Thware Mogobe, adding to the diversity of our sightings. Porcupines and springhares were active, providing guests with a wide array of smaller mammal sightings during their night drives. Over at Splash Camp, one evening, just an hour after leaving camp, we located an aardwolf with two cubs southwest of the camp. We also observed a serval cat successfully hunting a mouse, highlighting the rich predator-prey dynamics in the area. Bat-eared foxes were regularly seen, and the resident genet appeared around the main area.

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