Press "Enter" to skip to content

Month: October 2022

Moremi Crossing, October 2022

The water levels over the Boro River that snakes around Moremi Crossing Camp dropped drastically. However, it was a time of prime game viewing bolstered by an influx of handsome migratory birds.

A crocodile kill viewed from camp

Plenty of general game, including elephants, buffalos and giraffe, zebra, warthog, reedbuck and troops of baboons, was viewed straight from the camp. One day, during a delicious and unforgettable brunch, guests even witnessed a kill when a baboon slaking its thirst was killed by a crocodile!

Lion Moremi Crossing Camp

With the river so low and prey, such as lechwe, assembled at the shores of the main channel near camp, we enjoyed many lion sightings. Lions were spotted taking advantage of the antelope concentrations almost every two days. The waste department division was busy as a result and we watched many Marabou storks and vulture species peck at the remains, cleaning up the lion leftovers.

Pelicans likewise exploited the shallow waters hunting fish trapped in the dwindling ponds. They have flocked in their hundreds and make for an impressive sight when they take off. We’ve enjoyed seeing them soar through the skies, especially at sunset.

A female leopard was discovered near neighbouring Gunn’s Camp, harbouring her little cub in the peaceful trees while the camp remains out of operation. Cheetah sightings were rewarding too. One morning, we saw a female cheetah with two cubs; another day, we located two subadults stalking prey through the grasslands of Chief’s Island.

Pel’s fishing owl in residence

A Pels fishing owl took up residence in the trees close to the main area and we were thrilled to find it fishing one evening, splashing into the river right in front of the dining room! On another eventful evening, we located a serval cat from the main area with the help of a spotlight.

Dragonflies and damselflies were also spotted hovering above the water, albeit during the day.

Plenty of spotted hyenas, side-striped jackals and back-backed jackals were seen in the early mornings and strutting their stuff after dusk. Honey badgers, banded mongooses, large grey mongooses, and porcupines were also witnessed.

(Please note: For the safety of the animals, we do not disclose the location of either rhino or pangolin sightings. Accompanying pictures are from our Kwando Photo Library which consists of all your great photo submissions over the years, it may not be the most up to date, but we felt it was worthy of a feature alongside this month’s Sightings Report!)

Comments closed

Tau Pan Camp, October 2022

Life slowed down with the mercury topping 40 degrees, but the Tau Pan camp waterhole became a veritable tick list. Lions, cheetahs, brown hyenas, leopards and all manner of mammals and birds frequented one of the last water sources in the area. 

Lions of Tau Pan Kalahari

We regularly saw the Tau Pan lion pride, although their hunting technique in the heat left much to be desired. They had some success in the cooler evening hours, and we often found them feeding on kudu and springbok. The pride was always alert to the possibility of a hunt. One day, we located them sprawled out at the airstrip with the small cubs suckling from their mother. The alarm call of a springbok sounded through the dry bush and the mother, thinking only of the prey, jumped up, sending the little cubs sprawling across the dirt, much to their dismay. 

Watching lions and more from Tau Pan Camp

Many guests took it easy watching the lion and animal activity from the comfort of the bar almost every day.  

Leopard, cheetah and brown hyena were all spotted at the waterhole this month but were acutely aware of the presence of the lions, so we often followed them further afield to where they relaxed. Further out in the bush, we watched cheetah hunt springbok, and the leopards posed obligingly in Camelthorn trees. Early one morning, we spied a brown hyena passing the waterhole, barely pausing for a drink. It’s always a joy to see these reclusive creatures.

The delights of desert bird life

The birdlife has been fantastic, especially the aerial battles around the waterhole. Yellow-billed kites and Temminck’s coursers have returned to the valleys and plains. Northern black korhaans, Goshawks, Tawny eagles, Steppe buzzards, Red-crested korhaans, Crimson-breasted shrikes, Yellow-billed hornbills, Pied crows, Kori bustards and Secretarybirds were just some of the other species we regularly identified.

In the middle of the month, we saw the first small clouds in the sky and within a few days, these built up to mountainous Cumulonimbus that dominated the sky. We could almost feel the sense of expectation from the wildlife. Late in October, rains finally arrived. And with the rain comes new life and a resurrection of reptiles. Two examples: a big puff adder crossed the road and a striped skink munched on a stick insect in camp. Insects have returned to the landscape too. Ground beetles, tok-tokkie beetles, hunting wasps and spiders, dragonflies, red ants, locusts, rose chafer beetles, and zebra white butterflies have joined the African monarchs. 

Reptiles of the Kalahari desert

We have also glimpsed the first springbok baby. As the landscape rapidly changes from a parched desert to a lush green oasis, we look forward to welcoming many new additions to the extended Tau Pan family!

The lionesses that took over the San Bushmen shelter last month have vanished into the bush. This hopefully means that in the next six weeks or so (the approximate time a lioness will keep her new cubs hidden), we will have some fantastic holiday additions to tell you about!

(Please note: For the safety of the animals, we do not disclose the location of either rhino or pangolin sightings. Accompanying pictures are from our Kwando Photo Library which consists of all your great photo submissions over the years, it may not be the most up to date, but we felt it was worthy of a feature alongside this month’s Sightings Report!)

Comments closed

Nxai Pan Camp, October 2022

Even with the onset of rains and increased water availability in the Makgadikgadi landscape, the Nxai Pan Camp waterhole remained an animal magnet. This month’s most special sighting was watching a confident brown hyena bathing in broad daylight!

Typically nocturnal and shy, this male took his time first sipping water before stepping in, enjoying a cooling soak, and splashing about for over an hour. Big breeding herds of elephants also streamed to the water source and entertained us with messy mud baths. The baby elephants learning to use their trunks were a particularly delightful sight!

Elephants at Nxai Pan Camp

Vultures plus jackals equals?

Soaring vultures repeatedly gave away the lions of Nxai Pan National Park this month. One morning, we scoured the skies, and our feathered friends helped us locate three lionesses and a male lion feasting on an adult female buffalo at the waterhole near South Camp. The fresh carcass was a hive of activity. Black-backed jackals prowled the edges of the scene while Tawny eagles, Yellow-billed kites and Pied crows lined the tree branches. These birds are often the first indicators of a new kill and tend to arrive on the scene before the vultures.

Another great morning, a series of haunting jackal alarm calls drew us to the north side of camp, and we uncovered a pair of mating lions. We followed them as they lazily made their way to the camp waterhole and guests photographed them drinking water in gorgeous morning light.  

Nxai Pan Camp Jackals

The resident male cheetah was seen along the Middle road, and there were frequent sightings of foraging bat-eared foxes in the same area. An aardwolf family remained in residence along Baobab Loop road, and we loved watching their antics (or should that be ant-licks?)

At twilight one day, an African wild cat slowly crossed the road granting the perfect photographic opportunity to snap this evening animal. On a day trip to Baines’ Baobabs and Kudiakam Pan, we located several dazzles of plains zebras and a big herd of gemsbok. Giraffes, blue wildebeests, impalas, and vast springbok herds were also regulars on game drives.

The first rain showers triggered the revival of cicadas, brown-veined white butterflies and African monarchs, which kept the summer visitors well-fed. Birds recorded in October include a large flock of beautiful Blue-cheeked bee-eaters, a high number of Lesser grey shrikes, Red-backed shrikes and Carmine bee-eaters. Crowned lapwing chicks meanwhile welcomed guests to the airstrip.

(Please note: For the safety of the animals, we do not disclose the location of either rhino or pangolin sightings. Accompanying pictures are from our Kwando Photo Library which consists of all your great photo submissions over the years, it may not be the most up to date, but we felt it was worthy of a feature alongside this month’s Sightings Report!)

Comments closed

Pom Pom Camp, October 2022

African wild dogs were a constant enigma, with various packs crossing Pom Pom throughout the month, including a group of twenty-four! The resident pack (who lost their puppies to the hyenas) has wandered off, but another family of eight adults and sixteen pups kept guests entertained. We caught two of these adults taking down a male impala which would bring sound sustenance to the puppies.

Wild dogs Pom Pom

Summer’s avian migrants have returned. The Yellow-billed kites hunted near the camp, and Woodland kingfishers have brought their iconic staccato call to the bush. Despite the October heat, these birds are an excellent indicator of the coming rains and true to form, clouds rolled in late in the month and brought our first showers. Short grasses revealed the servals, civets, genets, and African wild cats that regularly graced our evening drives.

Hot temperatures, hotter tempers

The heat of the month also raised tensions. We previously reported on strains between the lions and the hyenas at Pom Pom and they exploded into outright hostility. We saw a male lion feeding upon a lechwe early in the month. Happy with its feast, the lion failed to notice the slow approach of the Pom Pom hyena clan — all 18 of them! As we quietly watched from a distance, the lion jumped to his feet and bared his teeth. However, a showdown in the bush is primarily a question of numbers. The hyenas went in to steal the lechwe as the lion roared and swiped ineffectually. He held them off for some time before they started directly attacking him, a seriously precarious position. He eventually broke off the defence of the lechwe and had to watch as the hyenas dismembered his meal.

Spotted hyenas Pom Pom camp

The Spotted hyenas understand their collective strength, and we found the clan later in the month attacking four lionesses. These four ladies are formidable foes, but numerical advantage favoured the hyenas. The four lionesses were forced to flee into a tree, where they perched precariously as the hyenas circled beneath them.

Tree climbing lions Botswana

However, the lions were still a force to be reckoned with. Pom Pom was home to three separate prides comprising groups of fifteen, seven and five. With them, there are at least 10 cubs and several subadult males. If these youngsters can all survive the (quite literal) clan warfare, the scales will likely tip again in favour of the lions.

We tracked one pride across the reserve to find them locked in a battle with an old male buffalo. This pride of seven lions attacked the experienced old buffalo for over an hour. Lacking any help from a herd, ultimately, the buffalo succumbed.

Exceptional leopard encounters at Pom Pom Camp

Five leopards were regularly spied at Pom Pom, but two provided the majority of sightings. Nonetheless, a young female left us gawping when we found her with a baby vervet monkey. At first, we thought the baby was dead until it started to move in a rather disorientated fashion and got up to walk. The leopard watched it before gently guiding it back with a paw. This behaviour went on for almost an hour and a half. The leopard continued in its “play” until it suddenly placed a firm paw on the monkey and administered a swift bite. This done, she carried the remains onto a termite mound and swiftly ate the unfortunate prey. A fantastic sighting to end an amazing month at Pom Pom Camp.

(Please note: For the safety of the animals, we do not disclose the location of either rhino or pangolin sightings. Accompanying pictures are from our Kwando Photo Library which consists of all your great photo submissions over the years, it may not be the most up to date, but we felt it was worthy of a feature alongside this month’s Sightings Report!)

Comments closed

Lebala Camp, October 2022

We thought we were seeing things when we came across an enormous crocodile walking along the road. 

Crocodile Kwando River

Crocodiles will wander surprisingly far from water and are ectotherms, meaning they rely on the outside environment to regulate their body temperature. Although October is usually the hottest month of the year in Botswana, access to water on the Kwando Private Reserve means crocodiles regulate their body heat effectively using cool waters. They also have very high levels of lactic acid in their blood (which would be almost toxic for a mammal), which helps them remain motionless for long periods. 

A pride divided

The soap opera of the Wapuka lion pride presented a plot twist: it has now split into two. The lions are divided into groups of two and three females, each having six cubs. One half of the pride made a base near Lebala camp, while the other has headquarters a few kilometres away. 

We enjoyed almost daily sightings of the pride near camp hunting on the floodplains. They had little daytime success, however, nighttime proved productive, and we frequently saw cubs licking the blood of some unfortunate prey off their mother’s nose come morning. A massive bonus for the camp pride was an elephant’s (natural) death to the east of Lebala Camp, which granted several days of feasting. The young cubs spent much of the time using the skeleton as a climbing frame and playground.

Lions of Lebala Camp

This month, five leopards, including a mating couple, were seen on various occasions. One day, we followed the sounds of furious baboons to find a leopard high up in the tree above a large troop. A big male baboon is a formidable adversary, and they have been known to kill leopards. While the baboons were, perhaps understandably, not keen to go up into the tree, the leopard spent an hour uncomfortably perched in her hiding place. As soon as the baboons started to move away, she leapt down and vanished at pace into the bush. The next day we watched a different female leopard stalking three male impalas. As she crept closer and tensions ballooned, three large male warthogs exploded from the bush and charged her. Caught completely by surprise, and with the three impalas now heading at speed in the opposite direction, she had to retreat and nurse her wounded pride.

Two male cheetahs roamed the reserve, and we frequently tracked them to their favourite resting perch at a termite mound with full bellies. 

Brown hyena den at Lebala Camp is still active

The brown hyena den was still active, but we only caught fleeting glimpses during the day due to sunny temperatures. The spotted hyena den was still in use too, despite attempts by the lions to dig out the pups last month. The lions revisited the site, so the cautious hyenas spent less time there, but we saw them periodically.

Like last month, we enjoyed large herds of elephants, buffalos and zebras, kudus, tsessebes, giraffes and wildebeests crossing the floodplains. Roan and sable also gathered in small herds, and we had the pleasure of sharing the bush with Crowned cranes, Southern ground hornbills and Secretarybirds.

(Please note: For the safety of the animals, we do not disclose the location of either rhino or pangolin sightings. Accompanying pictures are from our Kwando Photo Library which consists of all your great photo submissions over the years, it may not be the most up to date, but we felt it was worthy of a feature alongside this month’s Sightings Report!)

Comments closed

Lagoon Camp, October 2022

Guest favourites this October were two cheetah brothers, who used their phenomenal speed to great effect. We located them bringing down an impala, and they successfully hunted in the secluded Mopane woodlands of the Kwara Private Reserve. Another coalition of five (adult female and four subadults) cheetahs took down a steenbok near our vehicle. In an unequal contest of five against one, there was little remaining of the steenbok after fifteen minutes. A further group of four cheetahs (a female and four youngsters) were also occasionally seen.

Cheetah of Kwando Safaris

The resident pack of eight African wild dogs took up a more permanent residence near Lagoon Camp and we spent many hours enjoying their boisterous and vocal group interactions.

We were treated to a fashion parade of wildlife coming down to the Kwando River to drink this month. Hundreds of elephants and buffalos were accompanied by herds of kudu, roan, sable, and zebra. Tsessebe and wildebeest fed on the lush grasses at the river’s edge and drank from the clear waters. This mammal medley attracted the attention of the Kwando Private Reserve’s prolific predators.

What did the lions of Lagoon get up to?

The lions focused on older male buffalo coalitions (the grumpy-looking dagga boys) and did their majority of hunting in the floodplains approximately one kilometre from camp, which afforded many guests ringside seats to the action. The lion prides and male coalitions we mentioned last month generally stayed in place, and we encountered lions almost daily looking well-fed and content. A lioness from the Mma Mosetlha pride was heavily pregnant and due to give birth any day now.

Lions of Lagoon Camp

A hippo died in the shallow waters not far from camp, and crocodiles descended en masse for this unexpected free meal. Lying in the shallow waters, these reptiles have a natural advantage over any potential competitors, but this didn’t stop the resident Spotted hyena clan from having a go! They assembled near the hippo and made the occasional dash into the water to try and snatch a bite. While hyenas have a good turn of pace when they need it, they don’t stand a chance against the tremendous speeds with which the crocodiles can turn and bite. After numerous nervous attempts and a couple of near misses, the hyenas retreated. Another advantage of having a hippo carcass not far from camp? Regular views of our favourite reptile, Howard the short-tailed croc, swimming in front of camp on his way to a hippo lunch!

An update on the Kwando River Carmine bee-eater colony

The various resident leopards were seen, and we had the privilege of “hosting” the family of three (female with two subadult males) in camp as they hunted impala and tsessebe from the camp environs. We’ve also spent time with a young mother and her cub. She has been leaving her cub up a thick shady tree while she hunts and once brought back an impala which kept them well-fed for almost a week.

Carmine bee-eaters Kwando Safaris

The Carmine bee-eaters, with their bright red plumage, were back at their normal nesting site and number over 100, with more on the way. They have been hunting dragonflies on the wing out in the floodplains and are a welcome dash of colour against the dusty brown landscape.

Southern African rock pythons, Spotted bush snakes, Puff adders, Leopard tortoises and Striped-bellied sand snakes were all seen. The sand snakes were often found twisted together and mating.

Fabulous frog sounds graced our evenings, and the Reed frogs and the Guttural toads were highly active.

(Please note: For the safety of the animals, we do not disclose the location of either rhino or pangolin sightings. Accompanying pictures are from our Kwando Photo Library which consists of all your great photo submissions over the years, it may not be the most up to date, but we felt it was worthy of a feature alongside this month’s Sightings Report!)

Comments closed

Kwara and Splash Camps, October 2022

The African wild dogs had a successful month, and we followed them on various hunts, including successfully taking down impalas and tsessebe.

We had three packs roaming between Kwara and Splash, numbering 31, 12, and 8 individuals, including their puppies. A wild dog can eat up to 4kg of meat a day (some of which might go to puppies) – more or less the equivalent of the pack of 12 eating an impala – although this doesn’t mean they will pass up the opportunity to take an easy snack.

Kudus and drawn claws at Kwara

We found the largest pack resting with big round stomachs at Python Pan when a small herd of kudus unknowingly walked out of a bush nearby. The pack twittered and chased one female kudu into a nearby watercourse, where they subdued it before dragging it to dry land and consuming it. The action, however, didn’t stop there. As they feasted, two hyenas emerged, looking for the delicious smell that had drawn them there. In their considerable pack number, the wild dogs didn’t hesitate, and the hyenas were swiftly seen off.

Wild dogs and kudu at Kwara

Early one afternoon, as a glorious afternoon siesta set in, we were pulled from our downtime by a cacophony of growls, yelps, and whining in the Kwara staff village. Jumping in a vehicle, we arrived in time to find the wild dog packs of 12 and 8 in the middle of a fight. The packs squared off and fought before splitting apart, one group heading east and the other heading west. We can only guess what was resolved. It just goes to show that while October can produce some of the most stunning sightings of the year, the heat can fray tempers!

What’s happening at the heronries?

The Godikwe and Xhobega heronries were pumping with life as the nest building gave way to the cacophony of hungry chicks. Many of the birds were relaxed in the presence of boats and camera clicking, making it possible to quietly float nearby and get some fantastic snaps of the chicks and feeding time, plus the aerial predators who awaited their chance to pounce on an unguarded newborn.

Heronry Kwara Private Reserve

As the floodwaters receded, the sheer number of birds was almost matched by the huge herds of elephants and buffalos moving through the Kwara Private Reserve.

Leopard vs wild dogs

There was more than a fair share of leopard sightings this month, and we located them hunting, sleeping, mating and encountered the occasional leopard just out for a stroll. One day, we were watching a sleeping leopard when a pack of 12 African wild dogs wandered by. The leopard noticed them first and jumped up to confront them. The wild dogs went on the offensive and, using their well-honed communication skills, chased the leopard backwards and forwards across the pan. Risking severe injury, the male leopard finally charged straight through three of the pack and sought sanctuary in the nearest tree, hissing and spitting insults from the safety of a branch a few metres off the ground.

We saw hordes of plains game and significant zebra numbers. Another constant almost every day was seeing lions.

Lion Kwara Camp

We found them on some of these zebra, lechwe and reedbuck carcasses, and they seemed in good health. Although, we did notice one male suffered a serious cut beneath his eye, while another limped heavily with a large cut to his leg. Weakness is not a luxury a lion can afford to show if he wishes to climb the hierarchy to independence to take charge of his own pride.

The elephant carcass not far from Kwara that gave us so many great sightings as reported back in September, October saw yet another clash between the lions and spotted hyenas. The lions, quietly enjoying an evening meal, were rudely interrupted by a clan and attacked the hyenas without realising just how many they were taking on. By the time the lions noticed their inferior numbers, they were in deep trouble from the whooping and cackling clan of competitors. Finally, there was only one thing to do: retreat. However, this was easier said than done, and they eventually had to settle with perching in the branches of a nearby Marula tree.

(Please note: For the safety of the animals, we do not disclose the location of either rhino or pangolin sightings. Accompanying pictures are from our Kwando Photo Library which consists of all your great photo submissions over the years, it may not be the most up to date, but we felt it was worthy of a feature alongside this month’s Sightings Report!)

Comments closed