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Month: January 2022

Moremi Crossing Camp, January 2022

It rained a lot in the first three weeks of 2022, and the water has filled different parts of the Boro River channel, which runs in front of the camp. There has not been enough water to recommence boating safaris or to safely mokoro around the hippos that have found refuges in the deeper pools. Still, thanks to the cooler weather and cloud cover, we could conduct some brilliant nature walks, and these on-foot safaris have been wildly productive!  

During a nature walk one afternoon, we encountered several impala herds, a dazzle of zebra and watched in awe as a breeding herd of elephants crossed the river with mighty big splashing sounds.  

The general game has thrived with the fresh grasses and plentiful watering holes. Giraffe, warthogs, baboon troops and monkey gangs, red lechwe, common reedbuck, elephant, Spotted hyenas and widespread buffalo herds feeding in the lagoons were seen on game drives.

We saw several wild dog and leopard tracks, but the lions stole the show this month. On a morning game drive into Moremi Game Reserve, we came across a pride of five lions on Chief’s Island. The following day, they were joined by three other females, and we watched them as they patrolled the area in search of breakfast.

At the end of the month, we heard baboons alarming calling through the camp and on investigation, we tracked a big sub-adult male lion walking past the tents. Two Black-backed jackals and two Spotted hyenas were also very active in the area.

A flight of fireflies and African skimmers linger

Turning our eyes upward, Kwando Safaris guide Titus noted that “The sky has its own beauty at this time of year with heavy, ominous clouds”. It was also filled with summer visitors. The African skimmers flicked above the Boro River waters, and the Black coucals took full advantage of the long, rank grass in the marshes and flooded grasslands. We have also heard the distinctive calls of the Dideric and Jacobin cuckoo, Woodland Kingfisher and snapping beaks of the vivid Carmine bee-eaters (though they are admittedly starting to lose their colour). Big flocks of Collared pratincoles have also been observed, lots of Spur-winged geese, African fish eagle pairs, Wattled crane couples and plenty of storks.

Guests of Moremi Crossing Camp were really excited to see glow worms and fireflies at night. These enigmatic little insects are often seen in the vicinity of Sycamore fig trees, which are plentiful. The males can fly, while the females don’t possess these acrobatic abilities and as such are known as the ‘worms’.  

Dragonflies, butterflies, dung beetles and fishing spiders have also been plentiful. Walking also allowed us to witness the little Tok-tokkie beetle at work. The males tap their abdomens in a rhythmic pattern on the ground to gain the female’s attention. Perhaps in preparation for the upcoming Valentine’s Day…

(Note: Accompanying picture is from our Kwando Photo Library which consists of all your great photo submissions over the years, it may not be the most up to date, but we felt it was worthy of a feature alongside this month’s Sightings Report!)

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Tau Pan Camp, January 2022

Tau Pan Green season

We kicked off the year in true Tau Pan Camp style with a sighting of four lionesses accompanied by six cubs and five males in the eastern part of the area on 1 January 2022. They were catching some shade by sheltering below bushes while the males lay down in the open as if to show off their full bellies. 

This resident Tau Pan pride were seen drinking from the camp waterhole often. One morning, we tracked them through the alarm call of a jackal. They were full-bellied again, and the cubs were playing around with the skull of an oryx. We repeatedly encountered the pride at play which is always a joy to watch. Especially when lions are typically lethargic and can rest for up to 20 hours a day. 

An implausibility of wildebeest

Plains game sightings included high numbers of Oryx, lots of steenboks, a few kudus, healthy implausibilities of Blue wildebeest, a massive amount of springbok and a large click of eland along the Aardwolf Road one day. Did you know? The giant eland antelope breeds all year round. 

This month, we did not see any leopards but found plenty of tracks that proved their omnipresence. Guides spotted four sub-adult cheetahs through another alarm call from our wily friend, the Black-backed jackal, when it called south of the Tau Pan area. They were resting under the tree and looked hungry. Three days later, we encountered three of these cheetahs. We suspected a female was missing because they usually remain solitary between periodic meet-ups with the males. We soon spotted her, but this time accompanied by a cub and hunting on the northern side of Tau Pan. 

Passarge Valley of plenty

Passarge Valley proved particularly productive and yielded a mating pair of Kalahari spine agamas and a Brown hyena running through the bush. One day, we also stopped for a big flock of White-backed vultures and Lappet-faced vultures and saw them feeding on the carcass of a juvenile ostrich chick. 

On a day trip to Deception Valley, we came across a caracal on the move, and in another exciting sighting, an African wild cat was seen active during the day, which is unusual. Early in the month we also located a well-hidden Black-backed jackal den during our morning game drive west of Tau Pan.

Sandgrouse regularly flocked to the full waterholes, and the Kalahari landscape has been fantastic with its greener trees and flowers in bloom. This attracted a glut of insects, and hungry birds soon followed. Even ostriches took advantage of the softer stems, sweet flowers, fresh leaves, and small fruits of the trees. We have seen an abundance of ostriches within the Tau Pan area, sometimes counting 40 in one drive.   

We also noticed a flock of Abdims storks, some Bateleur eagles, Red-knobbed coots, and once a Barn owl came to visit the camp’s central area. Black-shouldered kite, Northern black and Red-crested korhaan were familiar sightings, and guides also noted many juvenile Southern pale chanting goshawks and Yellow-billed kites around. 

(Note: Accompanying picture is from our Kwando Photo Library which consists of all your great photo submissions over the years, it may not be the most up to date, but we felt it was worthy of a feature alongside this month’s Sightings Report!)

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Dinare Camps, January 2022

January marks the middle of our rainy season, and the Gomoti River has risen every day due to the high amount of localized showers we’ve experienced. This month, we recorded 86mm of rain and enjoyed warm days with spectacular afternoon thunderstorms. These cloud gatherings conjure breathtaking sunsets and make for dramatic photography at this time of the year.

Lion vs. buffalo

Our resident male lion Sankedi was not seen for a few weeks but returned with a bang. Kwando guide NT describes it with comedy. “One night during dinner, he roared very close to Mma Dinare Camp, and our guests needed no introduction. It was like a Dolby surround sound speaker broke the silent night”. During one morning drive, a pride of four lions was found feeding on a giraffe.

The Tees pride was seen frequently on our game drives through the reserve, often with a buffalo kill. One day 12 lions lay sleeping in the shade, and guides noted that one was injured — perhaps in pursuit of their favoured prey? The African buffalo is a formidable animal known for its grumpy temperament!

In yet another testament to the name of our camp, we have seen enormous herds of these buffalo grazing, often numbering 100 or more in a grunting congregation feeding on the lush plains. Meanwhile, the old dagga bulls have lazily bathed in the numerous water ponds filled from the rains.

A first for us!

More unusually, we spotted a female leopard on a young buffalo kill. It was pulled very high into a tree away from the competition. Kwando guides report that it is not common to come across a leopard preying on buffalo. However, a young buffalo was seen alone in the same area the previous night. It is a reminder that cats are opportunists! if a young buffalo is separated from the rest they will take advantage.

Healthy African Wild Dogs roam Santawani

A pack of seven healthy wild dogs was frequently spotted in the Santawani area, and they were looking fantastic. Their coats were shiny, and bellies bulged thanks to the influx of young impala prey. “The young antelopes that were born at the end of 2021 and survived are strong and very fit”, NT reported. “They are giving predators a hard time”. We enjoyed some great cheetah sightings this month and spent a wonderful afternoon with a coalition of two relaxing in the shade one day.  

A giant crocodile was seen at Sam Pan, which is 7 kilometres away from Gomoti River, and it’s not the only creature that went walkabout. The hippos have also been noted wallowing in water holes far away from the main rivers because they have plenty to graze upon these days. One morning, a hippo was seen feeding on land near the mokoro station despite the sun beating down on its back. Elephants also enjoyed the plentiful mud wallows across the reserve.

A feast for feathered friends

Birding has been equally fantastic. With all butterflies and insects around, it’s been a feeding frenzy. The migratory Woodlands kingfisher was joined by Carmine bee-eaters, Broad-billed rollers and Yellow-billed kite. A particular highlight was seeing termites eruptions after the rains. Marabou storks, rollers, plus many more birds enjoyed the insect feast.

Back at Mma Dinare camp, guests were delighted to watch eight giraffes as they journeyed past room eight. Significant numbers of buffalo, grazing zebra, elephants, kudu, and red lechwe were also seen from the main area deck as they drank from the river. At nighttime, the eerie human-like laugh of Spotted hyenas was usually heard from camp.

(Note: Accompanying picture is from our Kwando Photo Library which consists of all your great photo submissions over the years, it may not be the most up to date, but we felt it was worthy of a feature alongside this month’s Sightings Report!)

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Nxai Pan Camp, January 2022

Nxai Pan Summer

There was lots of lion activity at Nxai Pan this month. On a day trip to Baines’ Baobabs, Kwando guides came across a tower of giraffes, and all were looking in one direction, which can sometimes indicate predators nearby. Following this instinct, guides detected the Nxai Pan pride of 11 lions settled around the kill of male kudu. 

One dominant male was located east of Nxai Pan Camp, heading to the waterhole, and guests followed it in a vehicle. However, a few minutes later, a big herd of elephants disrupted its peaceful drink, chasing the lion until he eventually disappeared into the bushes.  

Two male lions were also seen at the other waterhole in the south, and the following morning we came across the Nxai Pan pride loping across the flourishing grasslands east of West Road. 

We did not see any leopard this month, but we did come across fresh tracks on the road to Baines’ Baobabs. Likewise, we didn’t have any cheetah sightings, and we only heard Spotted hyenas when they called during dinner time. We did notice an increase in reptile activity, however. We surprised a Black mamba basking in the sun on the side of the road to Baines’ Baobab and caught sight of a golden Cape cobra crossing the road. Guides also clocked a beautiful Boomslang on the West Road,  following it until it vanished into the tall grass.

A blossom of butterflies

Insect life thrived this month thanks to the plentiful pools of rainwater. There were pond skaters in the natural waterholes,  crickets and Tok-tokkie beetles scampered through the fields alongside the busy dung beetles that had to clean up after all the Plains zebra now milling about. We’ve been blessed with an abundance of butterflies too. Brown-veined white butterflies, Broad-bordered yellow grass and African monarch butterflies have been noted this month. 

Flowers have blossomed too, including Flannel weed, Jackal food, brightly coloured Flame lily and Cats tail. 

Zebra migration update

Kwando Safaris guide Matt reported, “An outstanding migration of zebras has arrived. The area is green everywhere, and we saw many animals in the pans with their young”. Nxai Pan has had excellent general game, and herbivores sighted include the jubilant springboks, gemsbok, red hartbeest, wildebeest, small groups kudu and large groups of giraffe, sometimes numbering 30 individuals in a group. 

Guests loved seeing the Bat-eared foxes with their two cubs. They had created a burrow at the side of a termite mound close to the road. We also located an aardwolf, and a Honey badger visited the camp behind the kitchen near the water tanks. Scrub hare and Black-backed jackal were seen regularly on early morning drives. 

Migratory birds such as the Steppe buzzard, European and Blue-cheeked bee-eater, European roller, Greater snipe, Barn swallow and Denhams Busard were all seen across the skies. We also enjoyed watching a Black-chested snake eagle feeding on a Striped skink and Tawny eagles feeding on termites. Birding became action-packed one day when we found a White-backed vulture fighting a Lappet-faced vulture over an elephant carcass.

(Note: Accompanying picture is from our Kwando Photo Library which consists of all your great photo submissions over the years, it may not be the most up to date, but we felt it was worthy of a feature alongside this month’s Sightings Report!)

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Pom Pom Camp, January 2022

Jackals Okavango Delta

As well as regular encounters with the resident Pom Pom Pride, there was further outstanding cat action in this rich region of the Okavango Delta this green season. Dalton reported that “we had beautiful sightings of lions and leopards in Pom Pom Reserve” during January.

Much to the delight of our guests, we saw four leopards in different locations in just one morning. We first found two male leopards and then a female leopard with a cub (roughly two years old) feeding on a male impala in the fork of a Sausage Tree. On another day, we visited a big male leopard in Mochimbamo island feeding on a sub-adult female kudu,  safely stored in the boughs of a towering Rain tree.

We came across three new lions in our area (a coalition of two lionesses and one big male). Dalton estimated that the lionesses must have been roughly four years old and that the big male aged about eight. The king of the carnivores can live up to 14 or 15 years if he is very successful, but males are often killed in territorial disputes at the age of ten. This guy was in his prime. On another game drive, we found a romantic couple that had snuck away from the rest of the Pom Pom Pride. The lioness and big male were mating at Zeppa, near the mokoro station.  

Another morning, we picked up on the tracks of a pride at Rebecca’s field heading to the North-East of Xinega. We followed the paw prints for about two hours before locating four lionesses and a male lion resting under a big Jackal berry tree. One of the most prominent species in the Delta, the majestic Jackal berry trees were covered in creamy white flowers at this time of year.  

We also found a clan of twelve Spotted hyenas at Rebecca’s field lying down near a vast waterhole and on another early morning, we watched five hyenas being chased by a pack of ten wild dogs!

We saw this pack again at Kessy’s Field hunting impala without success because the tall grass and wild sage proved too tricky to move through at their famously dangerous pace. We’ve also noticed a small pack of two wild dogs that tend to move between the airstrip, Manonthoto and the camp, and to Pom Pom Camp’s northeast.

Scrub hare, Small spotted genet, African wild cat, Springhare and Side-striped jackal were all recorded during night drives. Dalton recalled the creative ways jackals fill their bellies in this months report. “Jackals live alone or in pairs that stay together for life. They can locate carrion by smell when they are downwind, but also by sounds of large carnivores fighting for food (we call this intra-specific competition). Jackals drink water if they can, but they can go for some time without because they often feed on fruits. They are very clever”.  

General game included elephants (breeding herds and bachelors), buffalo, giraffe, tsessebe,  Blue wildebeest, kudu, Common reedbuck, Waterbuck, Bushbuck, Steenbok, Common duiker, Red lechwe, Impala, hippo and zebra.

(Note: Accompanying picture is from our Kwando Photo Library which consists of all your great photo submissions over the years, it may not be the most up to date, but we felt it was worthy of a feature alongside this month’s Sightings Report!)

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Lebala Camp, January 2022

We have discovered a Brown hyena den at Lebala Camp! Our expert guides noticed that a den seemed active, so Tom and Mayezi made a plan to get up extra early and stake it out. They were rewarded with the incredible sighting of a sub-adult returning home at 6.30am (typical teenager, you might say). During the rainy season, these shaggy creatures don’t have to travel as far to forage, so they can spend more time at the den, which has remained active. The Brown hyena has not been shy and guests have scored some great photographs! 

Nature is back to life. It has been beautifully green, the bush was covered in flowers, and rivers have risen slightly. Our summer months from December to March are classified as the Green Season thanks to these stunningly verdant landscapes. 

A pack of 10 wild dogs were located along Rosina Road, and they looked hungry and on the hunt, but we couldn’t watch them for long because they soon veered off into the thickets.

The general game has been excellent. We’ve witnessed congregations of several species drinking together at waterholes, including giraffes, zebras, elephants, wildebeest and impalas. Elephants have also entertained us with their mud bathing while wading birds sprinkled along the shores provided superb birdwatching during the morning coffee stops. Amur falcons have arrived in good numbers along with the African and Black cuckoo. Ground hornbills have also been very active, and we’ve noticed a few juvenile Yellow-billed and Saddle-billed storks. 

One morning game drive, we found three male lions resting around Skimmer Pan resting. They seemed tired as if they’d covered a lot of ground during the night. They gave us a terrific roar before getting up to a drink from a waterhole.

Back at camp, three other lionesses walked behind our base to the marsh area, and in the afternoon, we found them using the higher vantage of a dirt mound to scan for prey. On a different day, a buffalo stress call from behind the staff village alerted us to further lion activity. We found three male lions feeding on a buffalo the following morning, and they stayed put for almost three days. We also had three male lions feeding on a sub-adult hippo in front of the camp.

One afternoon, we tracked two male lions up to Mogobe Wa Seolo, where we found them resting. It was Old Gun and Sebastian. We waited with them until dusk when they marked the shift from day to night with a series of hair-raising roars. We then left them to continue our night drive. 

African wild cats have been seen in good numbers during the evening, but they have been typically shy and soon dart in the dark. Springhares, on the other hand, have been abundant. 

Fireflies also joined us on these night drives, and we often stopped the vehicles to enjoy the evening chorus. Bubbling kassina frogs make an incredible high-pitched liquid call, while the Angolan painted reed frog has a lighter tinker. The males of the latter species have to climb right to the top of their reed perch to sing their song so that some lucky female can better hear the call.   

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Lagoon Camp, January 2022

Lagoon Camp Summer Sightings

Bat-eared foxes have had a brilliant time feeding on all the termites early in the morning and late afternoon. We’ve loved seeing these insectivores active thanks to the cooler rain-induced temperatures. 

On Maheke Road, we came across an impressive dazzle of zebra, and we estimated there must have been over 200. They formed a herd together with 20 Eland antelopes. We also came across a newborn zebra foal on Pangolin Road. It took precious time for the foal to gain its balance, and it wobbled around for over twenty minutes, but some fifty zebras stood nearby to ensure its safety. The general game along the flood plains has been rich with elephant breeding herds, elands, tsessebe and lots of Red lechwe. 

Wonderful Walking Safaris

We enjoyed such varied and diverse nature walks. Thanks to the insect activity, there was plenty to inspect, such as the Harvester termites and Matebele ants. We also saw many dung beetles pushing their big dung balls, which always look so comically enormous compared to the beetle’s diminutive body size. The tracks of different animal species were easily seen after the good rain, and we could safely approach elephants up to about 500 metres. Other animals sighted included Blue wildebeests and some Black-backed jackals. 

Fig trees and Jackal berry trees have burst with fruit, which has attracted Green pigeons, Grey go-away birds, and jackals. Most of the termite moulds also have mushrooms that gain baboons and monkeys’ attention.

Despite cloud cover on some nights, the sky was beautiful. The most prominent constellations were Taurus, Canis Minor, Canis Major and Orion. Very early in the morning, Scorpio was visible on the eastern side.

Brilliant Boating During January

During boat cruises, we noticed that the Kwando River had risen. It was also amazing to see the Red lechwe jumping across and splashing through the water. Wattled cranes have been seen several times along the river and other aquatic birds such as White-faced whistling ducks, Goliath herons, Black herons, and Dwarf bitterns.

At Halfway Pan, we always saw more than twenty crocodiles outside the water basking in the sun. One day, a small crocodile tried to grab a Spotted bush snake close to the boat in camp, but the small snake escaped. We often saw the Water striders and Water scorpions running on the water getting small insects such as the mosquitos during the boat cruises. 

Two lionesses with their six cubs were found along Diolo road feeding on the eland carcass, which guides estimate to have been killed early that morning. Four lionesses from Mmamosetlha pride were seen at Giraffe Pan. The considerable pride of 14 (commonly known as Mmadikolobe) was found at Water Cut lying down well-fed after feasting on a zebra. The mating pair was then seen at Kwena Lagoon for three consecutive days. 

There is a resident pack of 10 wild dogs that comprises four adults and six subadults. We often followed them hunting and witnessed them kill impalas and warthogs. 

One day, we saw a female leopard resting upon the tree along Maheke Road and on a leopardess sitting on the termite mound along Zebra Road. We tracked a leopardess with her two cubs along James Road, finding them with an impala carcass. They remained there for two days, as did the Spotted hyenas and Black-backed jackals who hung out on the periphery waiting for leftovers. 

One Spotted hyena was seen patrolling at Muddy Waters, but we heard them almost every night from camp. We saw lots of springhares and Lesser bushbabies during the night game drives with the spotlight. There have been great sightings of Small spotted genets hunting long James Road, and we also had the fantastic opportunity to watch the Black-backed jackals with their litter of four six-month-old puppies on the road connecting Zebra Pan and Grass Pan.

(Note: Accompanying picture is from our Kwando Photo Library which consists of all your great photo submissions over the years, it may not be the most up to date, but we felt it was worthy of a feature alongside this month’s Sightings Report!)

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Splash and Kwara Camp, January 2022

In early January, a pack of wild dogs was located east of Splash Camp, shredding a baby impala. The following day 14 more dogs were seen at Kwara islands. A different pack came chasing impalas into camp and made a kill just next to the main pool area. However, they could not enjoy their meal. It seemed like a bigger predator (probably a lion) spooked them, and they soon fled.

Speaking of lions, there’s been action this month! 

A territorial dispute

The Zulu boys occupied the western part of the Kwara Private Reserve, extending into the Shinde area. One day we saw these males mating with a lioness. Soon afterwards, we came across five male lions feeding on a wildebeest carcass near the Splash boat station along the river road. We believe this coalition controls the Kwara-Splash territory. The next day, four of these lions picked up on roars of other males nearby. Kwando guides followed as the resident lions responded with fierce roaring and headed towards the challenging calls.

The four males caught up with the three Zulu boys, and a territorial fight immediately ensued near Basarwa Sethabana. It was four against three, and the resident four males won, leaving one of the Zulu boys with severe injuries. Unfortunately, this lion succumbed to the damages. Two days later, we discovered his remains. Guides were alerted to the carcass by vultures and rampant hyena tracks crisscrossing the road early in the morning. They only found his fresh skull, part of the skin and remnants of paws and claws.

The Mmaleitho Pride visited Splash Camp one night and killed a wildebeest calf, then a clan of Spotted hyenas caused a commotion trying to overrun the kill. We saw this pride again at the Splash Camp waterhole drinking at midday. They then moved west past room 12 late in the afternoon but returned to Splash Camp again towards the end of the month. Closely monitored by the camp manager, the pride moved south, passing the solar room heading towards Tau Island.

Mr Special made his usual rounds and was often found hunting or scanning the plains from a termite mound. Another male cheetah was seen stalking impalas at Wild Dog Pan but could not secure a meal and scent-marked the area instead.

A male leopard killed an impala at the Kwara staff village and pulled its carcass up into a tree. Unfortunately (for the leopard), the carcass fell, and hyaenas quickly took it over, leaving only the head. Another male leopard was then located north of Kwara lagoon, comfortably sitting into the shaded storey of a Sausage tree with a Red lechwe kill. He spent about two days enjoying his meal much more peacefully.

At Kwara Camp, three hyenas came sniffing around the old Little Kwara staff village and proceeded towards the airstrip. A sub-adult hyaena frequently came to inspect the main area and was often seen during the day. Many hyenas were seen at Willy’s Valley celebrating the demise of the Zulu boys. It’s also highly probable that the hyenas could have finished off the injured lion since he was more vulnerable.

Servals, civets and other spotted creatures

Thick bush covers most of the landscape, and the long Turpentine grass grows everywhere, which posed a challenge when locating smaller animals, but we still enjoyed many incredible nocturnal sightings. This included serval cats, occasionally African wild cats, civets and Honey badgers, but Small spotted genet and Springhare were the most common sightings on night drives. One evening we also saw a huge Spotted eagle owl during dinner in the central area at Splash Camp. 

We saw several Ground hornbill groups this month. They spent much of their time scouting for prey — lizards, insects, snails and snakes — which are all abundant at this time. Monitor lizards were regularly seen, and sightings of snakes such as Puff adders, Mozambique spitting cobras and Black mambas were all recorded at a safe distance during game drives.

The grass has grown very tall, and there is lots of water, especially on flood plains, due to plentiful rain. Small and medium-sized crocodiles were seen frequenting these refreshed waterholes, as well as the plethora of wading birds that now have to dodge the reptiles as they feed.

Hippos at Splash Camp

Despite the tall grass, we saw plenty of general game, mostly antelopes such as tsessebe, impalas, wildebeests, kudus, waterbucks, small buffalo herds, Common reedbucks, Red lechwes, zebra, plus plenty of giraffes and good elephant numbers. There is also a significant pod of over 22 hippos (with adorable calves) residing in the Splash Camp lagoon. They occasionally leave the water out during the day and feed around the camp area at night.

We ticked off a glut of waterbirds during boat activities, such as herons, egrets, Egyptian geese, teals, and many jacanas. Raptors such as Tawny eagle were also seen, often scoping out kills before vultures (such as the White-backed and White-headed) rolled in.

Artur Stankiewicz was there to capture the drama and his image portrays just a fraction of the intensity of the lion confrontation. Sightings like these remind us that this truly is the wild!

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