The last days of December had a little surprise in store for Tau Pan – a sighting of two wild dogs at Makgoa Pan! The two males were very relaxed, and we were able to get some good photos of them. We are not sure whether they are from the pack of seven that we have seen a few times in 2013, or they are two individuals that have come from even further afield.
The first of January, a new year, and a new tactic from a lone black back jackal – hunting on his own, he managed to catch and kill a young springbok lamb – something that is not far off his own size.
A couple of days later, a lion and lioness were seen around Tau pan, calling to the rest of their pride. They have not managed to find their relatives in a couple of weeks, as the pride has moved out on a patrol of its territory now that the game is plentiful and there is sufficient water available for them to travel longer distances. In the absence of the pride, a female cheetah is having an easier time of things, and snuck down to the water hole to drink.
We were lucky enough to see another four cheetahs walking along Aardwolf road – this coalition we have not seen before, as we normally see a group of three brothers in the area. It will be interesting if the four are just passing through, or if they are intending to make a base in the area.
January, in many parts of Botswana, is regarded as the ‘quiet’ season – historically it was the time when camps were closed, often remaining closed until May or June. Those days are long gone, as visitors realise that the green season is a wonderful time to visit Botswana, and for the Kalahari, this is definitely the case. Deserts are officially classified as such depending on the amount of rainfall they receive annually. The Central Kalahari receives a little more rainfall than some of the other famous deserts, and as such, the early months of the year burst out in green, as the worlds largest biomass takes over the sand: grass. Not growing as tall as in other parts of the country, January is the prime time to see it in its lushness, with multitude of types that are the first things the hungry antelope are waiting for. giant crows foot, cats tail, finger grass, buffalo grass, saw-tooth love grass, turpentine grass… even the wonderfully named Panicum maximum, which sounds as if it’s walked straight out of the pages of an Asterix comic book, but has a rather duller English name of Guinea grass…
And with this grass arrives all the counterparts: springbok and oryx in large numbers, congregate on the pan during the day, huddling in the shade of the newly leaved trees when it all gets too hot. Bright green young armoured crickets – looking somewhat like extras in a B-grade sci-fi movie – hop from stem to stem, munching anything in their path (including each other if need be). Following them, and other insects or frogs that the rain might encourage, come hundreds and hundreds of marabou storks, and for a short period, thousands of white storks seem to be tottering through each patch of grass, looking slightly confused as to what they are doing there. For them, the Kalahari is a transit route on their travels, and such insects provide a good protein boost on their journey. An even more confused solitary flamingo arrived at Tau Pan as well at the end of the month – staying just a day before continuing on to the salt pans around Nata, where most of his colleagues were already waiting.
It was a rather exciting, but slightly alarming, end to the month of January in Tau Pan, when the ‘youngsters’ from the Tau Pan pride set up camp at the waterhole. They are at an age where it’s a point of contention whether to call them adult, or still sub-adult, but to the average eye, they are certainly large enough that you wouldn’t want to meet them face to face at ground level. They still retain a youthful character however, and in the absence of more sedate lions, they don’t pass up an opportunity to play. The young males (already with substantial manes) wrestled and tagged each other, whilst their sister looked on. Finding her own source of amusement, she decided to climb a tree. Lions are not well known for their tree climbing abilities, but they can all do it. They are actually very good at climbing trees, and can quickly clamber up a trunk and onto a branch. The problem they have is getting down again, as they can never seem to figure out if they should go down forwards, backwards, sideways, or a combination of all three, usually with a bit of hissing and a very clumsy landing. So it was to the surprise of the guests, guide and tracker that suddenly there was a lioness sitting ‘comfortably’ in the tree.
The biggest surprise – and what made everyone slightly anxious – is that the tree the lioness had chosen to climb was hanging right over where the vehicle was parked. The lioness herself appeared unbothered by the people seated below her, and after a few minutes of perusing the horizon, clambered back down, thankfully somewhat more elegantly than most of her relatives could manage. Everyone finally remembered to breath, and the guide moved the vehicle off to an area that didn’t have any overhanging branches.
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