Botswana Safari, Okavango Delta

4 Rivers Camp, November 2024

4 Rivers Camp, November 2024

Published November 30, 2024 by Kwando Safaris

Several jackals denned throughout the Kwara Private Concession, and black-backed and side-striped jackal pups emerged from their underground homes during game drives and offered adorable sightings for guests.

A spotted hyena den near the camp also provided consistent sightings of cute cubs.

More soberingly, a female aardwolf with five cubs was spotted near Maboa Island. Tragically, the mother fell victim to a python, which was seen swallowing her near the den as her terrified cubs scattered. This scene reminded us of the harsh realities of life in the wild! Other reptiles, such as boomslang and spotted grass snakes, were also observed.

African wild dog activity in November was phenomenal, with three different packs observed moving in and out of the Kwara Private Concession. A pack of four dogs occupied the Paradise area, while a resident pack of 12 roamed the western side. The largest pack, consisting of 27 dogs, covered a vast hunting range and occasionally ventured into neighbouring territories.

One of the most dramatic sightings involved an encounter between the pack of 27 and the pack of 12. After tracking the larger pack for over an hour near the main crossing, we found them resting with bloodied faces, indicating a recent kill. Suddenly, the pack of 12 approached the same area, triggering a chaotic clash. Both packs engaged in a frenzied chase, accompanied by high-pitched whining and snarling. Despite the confusion, the dogs quickly regrouped with their respective packs, and the larger pack forced the smaller pack to retreat. The victorious pack reclaimed the hunting grounds while their puppies remained safe.

Rains arrive in the Okavango Delta

The arrival of the rains transformed the landscape, creating lush grazing grounds that attracted abundant wildlife. Walking safaris offered close encounters with giraffes, zebras, and impalas. Guests also learned about animal tracks and the unique ecosystems of seasonal pans, which started filling with rain. Leopard tortoises appeared in good numbers after these first showers of the season. Mopane woodlands sprouted new leaves, offering more nourishment for the herbivores. Elephants were less concentrated along the floodplains due to more natural pans in the woodlands, which provided plenty of food and water. However, lone bulls and smaller herds were frequently sighted, particularly in the Paradise area.

A lone male cheetah claimed dominance in the Paradise area and expanded his territory, patrolling as far west as the camp. His movements put him at odds with a coalition of two younger males who frequented the same territory. The two younger cheetahs fled whenever they encountered the dominant male, avoiding direct confrontation.

On the 10th, the coalition of two was spotted near Double Crossing, feeding on a male lechwe they had taken down earlier in the afternoon. That same day, the lone dominant male was found southeast of Paradise, resting on a termite mound with a full belly. His commanding presence ensured the younger cheetahs stayed out of his way.

Herds of buffaloes, numbering in the hundreds, roamed the concession, their dark silhouettes contrasting beautifully against the vibrant green grass. Red lechwes congregated near seasonal floodplains, while zebras and giraffes flourished in the safer areas west of the camp.

Mokoro activities continued throughout November and provided tranquil moments. Sightings of water striders, several frog species, and water plants enhanced the peaceful ambience of the Okavango Delta.

Though, it wasn’t always peaceful.

Leopards and lions and kills aplenty

The resident mother leopard and her male cub captivated our guests. The cub often explored near camp while the mother was out hunting. On the 15th, the mother was spotted stalking a steenbok near Marula Pan, which she skilfully killed. However, her success attracted black-backed jackals, whose loud alarm calls drew the attention of a male lion. The lion appeared from the west and went directly to the kill. Thankfully, the leopard reacted swiftly, dragging her meal up a tree just in time. The lion sniffed the area, eventually locating the base of the tree and gazing up at the leopard. Unable to climb, the lion eventually gave up and walked away. Guests marvelled at this tense encounter and watched as the leopard began feeding on her hard-earned meal.

One of the most thrilling interactions involved a pride of nine subadults taking on a massive herd of over 100 buffaloes. After almost an hour of strategic stalking and relentless effort, they brought down a medium-sized male buffalo. We located another pride of 11 lions east of 4 Rivers Lediba, feasting on a male buffalo carcass.

This dominant pride continued to thrive, with five lionesses nursing cubs, creating exciting and playful sightings for guests. The cubs were often observed chasing each other or practising their hunting skills under the watchful eyes of their mothers.

The three dominant male lions frequently patrolled their territory, ensuring their authority remained unchallenged. One of these males was found feeding on a fresh buffalo kill near Dead Tree Marsh. Over 20 hyenas were spotted scavenging on this carcass. Guests were fascinated by the intense interactions between the scavengers, their eerie whoops filling the air.

We experienced excellent birding with large flocks of yellow-billed storks, marabou storks, and collared pratincoles dominating the skies. African skimmers were frequently seen near the 4 Rivers Lagoon, along with breeding pairs of wattled cranes, slaty egrets, and various geese and ducks.

Vivid sunsets painted the horizon in fiery hues, and lightning illuminated the night sky during occasional thunderstorms. Stargazing was still remarkable, with constellations such as Orion and Venus standing out clearly against the dark backdrop.

(Please note: For the safety of the animals, we do not disclose the precise location of either rhino or pangolin sightings. Accompanying pictures are from our Kwando Photo Library which consists of all your great photo submissions over the years, it may not be the most up to date, but we felt it was worthy of a feature alongside this month’s Sightings Report!)

Comments closed

Tau Pan Camp, November 2024

Tau Pan Camp, November 2024

Published November 30, 2024 by Kwando Safaris

The Tau Pan Pride was located on the eastern side of camp, where they enjoyed a meal from an African wild dog kill.

Just as the Tau Pan Pride was feasting on a subadult kudu, a male lion, seemingly out of nowhere, appeared and seized the entire meal for himself, leaving the pride and us in shock.

A caracal came for a drink at the camp waterhole, too. Caracals in the Kalahari have adapted to the arid environment by being highly opportunistic hunters, capable of taking down prey much larger than themselves — including springboks! Their powerful hind legs also allow them to leap over 3 meters into the air to snatch birds in mid-flight.

We tracked a female leopard along Aardvark Road, heading towards the first sand dune near the airstrip. She appeared to be hunting, and the guides carefully observed her movements. As we followed, we noticed a steenbok in her path. The prey spotted the predator and fled, causing the leopard to abandon the hunt.

Two shy male cheetahs rested in the shade at the Leitahau waterhole. They appeared to be trying to stay cool in the afternoon heat, avoiding hunting due to the warm temperatures. Later that same day, we spotted a female cheetah by the Passarge Waterhole. She was also resting and staying close to the water to cool off.

What is the Little Five?

Around camp, we noticed a new beetle species, the Dynastine scarab beetle, also known as the rhino beetle and a member of the Little Five.

The Little Five plays on the Big Five (rhino, elephant, lion, buffalo and leopard) and showcases the continent’s smaller but equally remarkable creatures.

This group includes the rhino beetle, an impressively strong insect with horn-like features; the antlion, a masterful sand-trap hunter in its larval stage; the elephant shrew, a tiny, quick-footed insectivore; the buffalo weaver, a social bird known for its messy nests and our next sighting, the leopard tortoise, named for its patterned shell. We saw a few leopard tortoises, which sought shade under trees to stay cool.

Other insect sightings included ground beetles, whirligigs, and water scorpions.

Ground squirrels, giraffes and amazing lion encounters

Ground squirrels were a regular presence, and their warning calls alerted us to the presence of a raptor. Suddenly, the squirrels scurried into their burrows to avoid becoming prey. A pale chanting goshawk caught a dove. However, a thorn hooked the dove, and another raptor of the same species swooped in to take it.

Although the rainfall was low this year, some greenish shoots started to appear, signalling the beginning of the rainy season. The grass remained short, but camelthorn trees, various albizia and the brandy bush remain green.

With the recent rains, many animals dispersed to areas with greener vegetation, leaving fewer animals in our immediate area. However, we still observed solitary gemsbok, springboks, wildebeests, steenboks, common duikers, and smaller animals like yellow mongooses, slender mongooses, bat-eared foxes, and jackals. Giraffes, in particular, moved further out of the area, making sightings of these majestic creatures even more special.

Lions also shifted their movements, as there was less activity around the waterhole. However, at the end of the month, we observed two female lions from the pride during a bush walk. When they spotted us, we calmly walked away, and they took cover, leaving us with a brief but memorable encounter. During this walk, guests learned about traditional survival skills, such as where to find food, how to make fire with matchsticks, and other essential life skills in the bush. For example, identifying moisture-rich desert plants like kambro, Kalahari water tuber and morning glory. These plants provide sustenance for animals during the drier months, and with more rain, Tau Pan could see an abundance of tsama melon, which has been scarce since 2015.

On clear nights, we viewed brilliant constellations like Canis Major, Orion’s Belt, Canis Minor, Taurus the Bull, and the Seven Sisters. The star Sirius, visible in Canis Major, and the planets Venus and Jupiter were particularly stunning.

Comments closed

Moremi Crossing Camp, November 2024

Moremi Crossing Camp - Aerial - Boro River

Moremi Crossing Camp, November 2024

Published November 30, 2024 by Kwando Safaris

In Gunn’s Private Concession, we noticed an encouraging increase in wildlife.

Large herds of elephants, buffaloes, blue wildebeests, and tsessebes regularly filled the plains with their impressive displays. Troops of baboons were also a wonderful sight, moving through the area with their distinct chatter and lively interactions.

This year, the flood arrived late — about two months behind its usual schedule — and was less intense than previous years. It lasted only three months before evaporation, exposing the white river sand as the waters dried up. Despite the parched flood plains, November provided fantastic animal sightings. The hippos, mainly affected by the reduction in water levels, were left stranded in small pools where their backs were barely submerged. Some managed to find their way to the small pond nearby, which had water for the animals to drink. This pond became a crucial gathering spot for birds and animals, offering them much-needed relief as they quenched their thirst in the increasingly dry conditions.
Thankfully, the rainy season officially began, though it appeared as sparse as in previous years, with heat waves continuing to sweep across the country.

The clarity of the night sky and the serenity of the surroundings made for an unforgettable stargazing experience. Guests who gazed up saw the famous Southern Cross constellation, along with Orion, the Coal Sack and Alpha and Beta Centauri.

Comments closed

Dinare Camps, November 2024

Dinare Camps, November 2024

Published November 30, 2024 by Kwando Safaris

We regularly encountered the coalition of four cheetah brothers, a well-known presence in the Dinare Private Reserve and witnessed a complete hunt from start to finish during one incredible game drive.

We headed directly to their known marking post, a sickle-leaf albizia tree called Molalakgaka in Setswana and picked up their tracks. We followed them for nearly two hours, gradually closing the distance until we sighted them. The cheetahs appeared on a hunting mission, their tummies flat, indicating they were focused on stalking prey. We kept a safe distance, ensuring we didn’t disrupt their hunt. Along the way, we spotted a zebra with a foal, which seemed to be their target. The cheetahs approached cautiously, moving slowly and deliberately. Then, in an instant, they sprang into action and successfully caught the foal.

The arrival of summer bird species, including the melodious woodland kingfisher, marked the start of the rainy season. Resident birds continued to delight, with frequent sightings of ground hornbills, yellow hornbills, red hornbills, grey hornbills, and even Bradfield hornbills. Various raptors graced the skies, including secretary birds, kori bustards, korhaans, and sandgrouse. Eagles, wattled cranes, and storks added to the diversity of birds spotted during our drives.

Abundant newborns and African wild dogs on the hunt

The Gomoti floodplains were filled with newborns from impalas, tsessebes, and wildebeests, all less than two weeks old. Herds of buffalo, numbering in the hundreds, were often seen near the Gomoti River. Elephants, zebras, impalas, wildebeests, tsessebes, and red lechwes were often spotted in the open grasslands and near the river. At Rra Dinare, the recent rains brought more water to the lagoons and attracted large numbers of hippos. These hippos and crocodiles gathered in lagoons like Paradise, creating a spectacular sight. We enjoyed several great encounters with crocodiles along the Gomoti River, including one particularly memorable sighting of a group of crocodiles feeding on an elephant carcass by the riverbank. Among the crocodiles, we spotted a massive 4-meter-long individual. Vegetation around both camps was rich and thick, providing ample food and shelter for wildlife.

One morning, as we drove along the Gomoti Channel south of the camp, we spotted a pack of four African wild dogs attempting to hunt a red lechwe. The dogs, known for their strategic hunting methods, were seen coordinating their movements to surround the lechwe. Unfortunately, their efforts were unsuccessful, and they also made several attempts to cross the Gomoti River, though they couldn’t make it across. We spent plenty of time with them, capturing great photos.

On other drives, we tracked and found a pack of 32 wild dogs that had been denning in the area. We followed them closely as they hunted, and at one point, we noticed a group of impalas running, signalling that the wild dogs were preparing for breakfast. While we missed the initial kill, we watched the pack finish off an impala. Additionally, we had another exciting sighting of a smaller pack of four, easily identifiable by a pale-coated individual.

The mighty lions of the Gomoti River

The resident Gomoti Pride of lions was frequently seen throughout the month, primarily due to two lionesses with their cubs having a den near the camp. One lioness had four cubs — three males and one female — approximately three months old, while the other had a single cub, around three weeks old. During one morning drive, we observed vultures perched in a tree, waiting for their opportunity to scavenge. We approached the area and, upon seeing lion tracks, suspected a nearby kill. As we got closer, the tracker spotted lions feeding, and we discovered Tee’s pride of 15 lions happily devouring a buffalo carcass.

We also had thrilling moments observing the three giant male lions of the Gomoti Pride, whose roars filled the air as they moved through the area. We followed them until they crossed the Gomoti Channel. Additionally, our local lioness, with her three nearly nine-month-old cubs, was seen several times. The Gomoti Pride, with its massive subadults, was often spotted near Tent 10 at Mma Dinare, with some sightings triggered by tracking or alarm calls from prey, especially impalas and kudus. On the final day of November, we spotted two lionesses feeding on a buffalo carcass. While we couldn’t identify them with certainty, we suspected they were part of the Santawani Pride, a well-known pride in the area with a history of successful hunts and territorial disputes.

At Rra Dinare, lion sightings were equally exciting, with lions frequently seen around the camp, drawn by the abundance of buffaloes in the area. On almost every game drive, we encountered lions, with three large male lions spotted repeatedly around the Matshwane area. These males were often seen without females, leaving us to wonder if they were nomadic or part of a pride. One evening, we observed one of the males limping on his front leg and with a fresh wound on his rear, likely from a fight with another male. The other two males were in excellent condition and very vocal, potentially marking their territory and making their presence known to any other nearby males.

During one of our morning drives, we spotted a clan of 12 spotted hyenas feeding on an elephant carcass. Towards the end of the month, we observed an increase in hyena activity. One afternoon, we witnessed a failed hunt attempt by a hungry hyena. It tried its luck on an impala but lacked the necessary skills to secure the kill.

At Mma Dinare, we regularly located our resident male leopard, Rra Lebodu, during both morning and afternoon drives. On several occasions, we tracked him with the help of a tower of giraffes staring intently at one spot. Their focused gaze and calm demeanour suggested they had spotted a predator. As we approached the area, we heard alarm calls from red-billed spurfowls, confirming that something exciting was nearby! As we closed in on the source of the alarm calls, one of the guests spotted the leopard — nestled in a tree between the two Dinare camps.

Rra Lebodu was also sighted on his extended patrols, though during his last sighting, he was limping on his left hind leg from an unknown injury. Despite the limp, he appeared to be in good health. We also encountered three different female leopards, two of which were accompanied by cubs. One morning, while driving towards the mokoro station, we encountered drag marks leading us to a female leopard and her cub, both feeding on an impala they had caught.

Guests enjoyed walking safaris and exploring the bush on foot with our expert guides. These walks provided an intimate experience of the landscape and a chance to see wildlife, including buffalo and elephants. Vibrant plants, such as flame lilies and fireball lilies, began to bloom, adding a burst of colour to the scenery. Monitor lizards were frequently seen in the open grasslands, feeding on termites and other insects. Dragonflies and butterflies also contributed to the area’s natural beauty.

Mokoro excursions provided an even more unique view of the Okavango Delta. Gliding through the waterways, we spotted water birds like ducks and geese, as well as red lechwes, zebras, and elephants.

Night game drives provided thrilling opportunities to spot nocturnal animals, including owls and predators on the hunt. We located a Verreaux’s eagle owl. Several times, we followed lions as they tailed a herd of buffalo. We also encountered scrub hares along the roads and spied their reflective eyes by spotlight as they hopped through the grass.

Black-backed jackals, honey badgers, African civets, African wild cats, servals, and small-spotted genets were seen regularly. As were banded mongooses, yellow mongooses, dwarf mongooses, with some sightings triggered by alarm calls from birds.

Comments closed

Nxai Pan Camp, November 2024

Nxai Pan Camp, November 2024

Published November 30, 2024 by Kwando Safaris

Aardwolves were regularly seen near their den on Middle Road, and scrub hares were often spotted at night feeding on the palatable grasses inside the camp.

Bat-eared foxes were also particularly active. It was denning season! There were several dens across the pan, and we often observed their adorable kits.

We located a lioness with three cubs, about 5 to 6 months old, near Baobab Loop. This was our first time seeing them in this area. We were thrilled to find one of the resident lionesses pregnant the following day. She was accompanied by four other pride members, plus two cubs around two months old, bringing their total number to seven.

We reencountered these lionesses at the wildlife waterhole, where they fed on the carcass of an elephant, likely a victim of dehydration or old age. The same day, a male lion mated with one of the lionesses. These lionesses spent the next four to five days by the waterhole, continuing to feed on the elephant carcass. Later in the month, we tracked them to the middle road, where they had made a springbok kill and we also sighted a solitary male lion resting in the shade on the west road.

A lone spotted hyena fed on this elephant carcass at the wildlife waterhole. While we occasionally heard hyena calls at night, cicadas were especially active, and their calls filled the air both in camp and throughout the surrounding bushes during the day.

Dragonflies, like the eye-catching red-veined drop wings, were frequently seen hovering above the waterholes, feeding on smaller insects. Ground agamas were spotted foraging insects in the area, and leopard tortoises were seen along Baobab Loop and the west road. Butterfly sightings were also notable, with African monarchs, yellow pansies, scarlet tips and painted ladies all fluttered through the area.

Birdwatching at the waterhole was equally delightful. Egyptian geese, grey herons, red-billed teals, African open-billed storks, red-backed shrikes, cattle egrets, lesser grey shrikes and nesting white-backed vultures were all seen. Summer visitors began to arrive, including yellow-billed kites and blue-cheeked bee-eaters.

Summer rains and the zebra migration at Nxai Pan

General game sightings were fantastic this month, especially with the increasing presence of elephants. We observed numerous breeding herds and bachelor herds coming to drink at the Nxai Pan Camp waterhole, with bulls frequently indulging in mud baths and dust baths to cool off in the afternoon heat.

The trees were lush and green, with flowering plants like trumpet thorns erupting with white blossoms. The grasses in the pan started to grow, and the zebra sightings were excellent, especially along the route to Baines’ Baobabs, where we saw large numbers. As the rains began, we expected more zebras to gather at the pan in the coming weeks.

Buffalo sightings around the waterhole were abundant early in the month, but with the recent rains, they moved to other natural water sources. We spotted giraffes near the airstrip, where the trees began sprouting fresh leaves. Springboks were plentiful in the pans, grazing on the nutritious new grass, often alongside impalas.

Blue wildebeests were observed daily, and solitary oryx bulls were seen standing in the shade during the hot afternoons, particularly on the way to Baines’ Baobabs. We also identified African wild dog tracks along the main road to these iconic trees. This area was lovely, with vast plains of tall grass leading up to the unforgettable salt pans. The mirage effect over the pans on the horizon created an illusion of water, enhancing the beauty of this unique landscape.

Nxai Pan offers an ideal setting for stargazing, with short trees allowing an unobstructed night sky view. Though there have been some cloudy nights, particularly with Nimbostratus clouds from the rainy season, there were many clear evenings. Familiar constellations included Scorpio, the Southern Cross, Gemini, Sagittarius, and Sirius.

Comments closed

Pom Pom Camp, November 2024

Pom Pom Camp, November 2024

Published November 30, 2024 by Kwando Safaris

One evening, sitting around the campfire after dinner, some of our guests were treated to an incredible sight: a male leopard hunting a female red lechwe by the Pom Pom Lagoon, dragging the carcass to a knob-thorn acacia tree to stash it.

The following morning, three hyenas were seen resting under the tree while the leopard moved on after breakfast time.

Large herds of elephants and buffalo, plus many other antelope species, gathered at the few remaining waterholes to drink. The open plains provided ideal grazing grounds for blue wildebeest, red lechwe, kudu, tsessebe, giraffes, zebras, and hippos. As the rains began, herbivores like impala and tsessebes started dropping their young, signalling the start of the rainy season. Some trees began flowering, like the baobab, rain trees, jackal berry, and fever berry. Termite activity increased after these first showers, with flying termites seen around the dining area during dinner, a fascinating spectacle for our guests. With the onset of the rainy season, reptile sightings were less frequent, but we spotted water monitor lizards and Nile crocodiles in the remaining waterholes.

Awesome African wild dog sightings

A pack of 20 African wild dogs roamed across the Pom Pom Private Concession, offering several great sightings. One morning in early November, we tracked the pack to the east side of the airstrip, where they were hunting impala. After following them southeast, they encountered a bachelor herd of impalas and successfully made a kill right in front of us!

Wild dogs are exceptional endurance hunters that easily cover distances of 50 km or more in a single day in pursuit of prey. They can maintain impressive speeds of approximately 50km/ph. Their peak activity occurs in the early morning and early evening when temperatures are cooler, enabling them to regulate their body temperature effectively while travelling these vast distances.

On 15 November, we tracked a different pack of 18 African wild dogs for 30 to 40 minutes before finding them feeding on a male red lechwe near the Matsebe Channel, southwest of the reserve. This pack moved towards the southwest, near the Mokolwane area, and provided more thrilling wild dog sightings throughout the month.

Spotted hyenas were frequently seen throughout the reserve, often around the camp, especially in the evenings. We often saw them walking near the fireplace on their way to the dining area during dinner. There is also an active hyena den on the west side of Shine Bridge, home to three pups aged 4 to 5 months.

The big cats of Pom Pom: leopards, lions and cheetahs

One morning, our game drive began with alarm calls from monkeys and impalas near Room 9. After a few minutes of searching, we tracked a large male leopard walking near Shine Bridge heading west. We followed him as he climbed a sausage tree branch to rest. Another morning, we located a female leopard and her cub feeding on an impala under the shade of a jackal berry tree at Zippa Island. As we continued tracking, we found a male leopard resting by the base of a termite mound, then followed him as he came across a fresh buffalo carcass — likely killed by lions. We watched as he fed on it before returning in the afternoon to find two lionesses and a subadult male lion resting nearby.

One night, a particularly thrilling sighting occurred when we heard a commotion of lions and hyenas east of Marula Island, just a kilometre from the camp. The following morning, we returned to find two male lions feeding on a wildebeest, with 10 hyenas resting at a distance, watching the lions. It was a fantastic month for lion sightings, and we enjoyed a variety of exciting encounters.

We followed the tracks of a lion pride heading northeast of the concession. After about an hour and 20 minutes of tracking near Kessey’s field, we were delighted to find a pride of 10 lions feeding on a buffalo carcass, with white-backed and hooded vultures perched in nearby trees. Later in the month, we tracked a lioness along Fishermen’s Route. She fed on a male red lechwe while side-striped jackals patiently waited to scavenge once she had finished.

We saw a female cheetah and her subadult male cub hunting impala. Unfortunately, the hunt was unsuccessful as the impalas spotted them from afar. Later in the month, we tracked a male cheetah, but the hunt had already ended, as the cheetah appeared to be resting after a successful chase earlier in the day.

A Pel’s fishing owl at Pom Pom

Birdlife around the concession was abundant, especially around the waterholes. At Pom Pom Lagoon, large flocks of pelicans, storks, egrets, and wattled cranes were observed in front of the lodge. Eagles, including martial, brown snake, and bateleur eagles, soared overhead. Other bird sightings included hamerkops, African darters, cormorants, slaty egrets, common ostriches, and pel’s fishing owls. Various species of pipits, rollers, larks, and woodland kingfishers were also recorded, offering an exciting range of birdwatching opportunities.

Experienced guides and trackers led several fascinating nature walks, where guests could learn about tracking, the uses of plants, and other species in the field.

We saw African civets, honey badgers, side-striped jackals, African wild cats, banded mongooses, and scrub hares during our evening drives. Springhares were frequently spotted too, particularly on our way back to camp after sundowners. Springhares aren’t actually hares — they’re more like oversized rodents! They can leap up to 2 meters in a single bound, using their powerful hind legs like a kangaroo.

The skies were mostly clear, providing excellent stargazing opportunities. We spotted planets and stars like Orion’s Belt, Jupiter, Mars, and the Southern Cross.

Comments closed

Lebala Camp, November 2024

Lebala Camp, November 2024

Published November 30, 2024 by Kwando Safaris

Our afternoons were often filled with the thrill of tracking cheetahs, sometimes for as long as two hours. We diligently checked their regular marking posts for signs of activity, a task that always kept us on the edge of our seats.

The cheetahs were typically found resting after long travel distances, but it was always fascinating to watch them mark their territory or climb trees for this purpose. One afternoon, we located a female cheetah with two nearly year-old cubs — whom we hadn’t seen in over six months. We watched them hunting and chasing impalas. They successfully caught an impala lamb, which they briefly left behind before moving on. Later, we returned to the spot to find a tawny eagle feeding on the carcass.

During nature walks, we noticed the first flowers of the season, including fireball lilies and spider lilies. Dung beetles were also active, spinning their balls across the sandy tracks of the Kwando Private Concession.

The pride of female lions crossed the river channel into the islands of the Kwando Riverine system following the buffalo herds. While these females fed on buffaloes, and we often heard their roars responding to the males, three males remained mainly along the marsh areas near Lebala Camp.

These males from the South Coalition spent much of their time resting. They ventured into the woodlands a few times, but we tracked them as usual and found them feeding on buffalo kills of their own. In one particularly intriguing sighting, we saw one of the South Coalition males mating with a subadult female. This mating lasted for several days. In another instance, we observed four females from the South Coalition with eight cubs of varying sizes, feeding on a buffalo. They finished the kill within a day and a half.

Meanwhile, a new coalition of three subadult males was spotted on the northern side of the camp. Two of them remained pretty shy, often staying on the periphery of the South Coalition’s territory. The South Coalition males became curious when they heard the roars of these newcomers, causing them to approach briefly before the younger males retreated.

We tracked a subadult male leopard on several occasions. We found him perched high in a tree one morning, looking out intently. After some time, he descended, and we followed the leopard as he climbed another tree. His movements indicated he was focused on something, and eventually, we saw him eyeing a family of tsessebes. As we got closer, we noticed that the leopard specifically targeted the tsessebe calves. We observed his stalking behaviour, but just as he closed in, a flock of guineafowl appeared, alarmed by the predator. The tsessebes quickly fled with their calves, and the leopard retreated into the thick bush.

The water, the woodlands and shifting habitats in the Kwando Private Concession

The landscape began to turn green after two good rains, and several waterholes started to fill with water. The knobbly combretum trees were particularly beautiful this month, adding to the lush scenery. Migratory birds began to arrive, with woodland kingfishers and broad-billed rollers logged. A few Southern ground hornbills and secretarybirds were also spotted, along with some cuckoos.

One morning, we found a pack of 12 African wild dogs with bellies full from a large meal the previous evening. In the afternoon, we returned to see them engaging in their ritual greetings before setting off on a hunt. As we followed them, they encountered a spotted hyena, which they fought and bit before moving on. From there, the pack entered the thick woodlands alive with the loud, high-pitched sounds of cicadas.

The post-rain period brought about a remarkable change in the wildlife population. Plains zebras, once a common sight, became scarce, while giraffes started to return to the river after long periods in the deep woodland areas. We saw impalas and tsessebes giving birth, whilst buffalo bachelor herds were sighted in greater numbers than in previous years. Elephants, too, moved further into the mopane woodland after the rains, but when they returned, we encountered them in large herds, scattered across the area.

A single Nile crocodile was spotted regularly along the riverbank, leading us to believe it might be incubating eggs or tending to a nest. Upon hearing the sound of vehicles, most other crocodiles would retreat into the river, but this one remained in the same spot. Water monitor lizards were frequently seen foraging for food. Young pythons were spotted in the area, particularly during the night drives and sometimes in the early mornings, basking in the sun.

Spotted hyenas were frequently observed during morning and evening game drives, but they tended to be on the move and mostly solitary. However, their calls were often heard around the camp at night, adding to the nocturnal atmosphere. We saw African wild cats hunting during night drives, though without success. Civets were shy and elusive, while springhares were abundant in good numbers. Genets were spotted around the camp but remained relatively inactive. The aardwolf den, located not far from the camp, was active, with three young ones observed.

Comments closed

Lagoon Camp, November 2024

Lagoon Camp, November 2024

Published November 30, 2024 by Kwando Safaris

The Holy Pride, consisting of one lioness and six cubs, delighted our guests with a spectacular sighting along Impala Road one morning when they successfully killed an unsuspecting warthog.

This pride remained a consistent presence in the area. Two male lions were occasionally seen moving between First Lagoon and Kwena Lagoon. The Mma Mosetlha pride, which had two-month-old cubs, was spotted near Badisa Road. Meanwhile, the three male lions from the Lebala, known as the Golden Boys, recently took over the territory previously held by the two males, who have since moved further north. The Lagoon Pride, known for thriving in the marshy areas, was spotted hunting red lechwes across the camp.

Birdwatchers were treated to sightings of southern carmine Bee-eaters along the Kwando riverbanks, about a kilometre from camp. Other notable sightings included the brown snake eagle, tawny eagle, woolly-necked stork, and wattled crane.

A pack of six African wild dogs was regularly seen this month along Airstrip Road, Firewood Pans, and Pan Road, where they made kills of both impala and warthog. In addition, another pack consisting of eight adults and seven puppies was seen on the western side of the camp.

A leopardess and her cubs

A mother leopard and her two cubs, aged six to seven months, were frequently spotted on the northern side of Lagoon Camp, along the Upper Kwando, Madisa Road, and Mosima wa Diphiri. Two subadult leopards, one male and one female, were also seen regularly. The female was seen around James Road, and the male kept primarily to the marshy areas near Bee-eater Road.

Two cheetah brothers were observed along First and Second Lagoon at the start of November. After successfully killing an impala, the brothers were tracked for about 30 minutes as they moved across the area. The brothers have been seen regularly along Upper Kwando Road. A female cheetah was also observed in the Plateau area near the Kalahari apple leaf.

The hyena den on Maheke Road was home to 23 spotted hyenas and their 9 cubs. It has been a constant source of activity, and several hyenas were observed in the surrounding areas, particularly near the camp. Aardwolves and bat-eared foxes were spotted on our night game drives between First and Second Lagoon.

Large herds of elands, zebras, and wildebeest were spotted around Water Affairs Island. Hippos were logged almost daily. Giraffes with calves, herds of buffalo, sable antelope, and black-backed jackals were seen throughout the month. Muddy Waters and Second Lagoon became home to some impressive crocodiles. Additionally, African Rock Pythons were observed several times.

The clear skies this month provided a stunning view of the celestial wonders. Venus, Jupiter, the Orion Belt, and Uranus were visible, offering a breathtaking spectacle to those who gazed at the night sky.

Comments closed

Kwara and Splash Camp, November 2024

Kwara and Splash Camp, November 2024

Published November 30, 2024 by Kwando Safaris

At Kwara, our resident male leopard, Rra Tsebe, was a familiar sight on his extended patrols, often along the bridge. His relaxed nature and predictable routes made him a frequent and dependable sighting.

We observed him walking confidently on several occasions as we learned his common routes.

Additionally, we had the pleasure of observing several females, including one with a cub, who was frequently seen hunting or feeding. At Splash Camp, a female leopard with her cubs remained active and was tracked several times. We followed her tracks to find her feeding or hunting. A male leopard was also seen in the east, though he was more elusive.

The two packs of African wild dogs clashed at one point, resulting in a dramatic confrontation. The larger pack, with their superior numbers, forced the smaller one to cross the channel into Moremi Game Reserve, an intense moment for our guests to witness.

We tracked a coalition of two young male cheetahs at Kwara. These two brothers have a large home range stretching from Last Mabala to Ngorongoro and beyond and were often seen hunting. Though they have a wide range, these brothers were regularly spotted in the northern part of the reserve. They caught two impalas on two occasions and we tracked them as they secured a kill!

At Kwara, the spotted hyena den on the western side of the camp was active, with three cubs seen near the den. Hyena calls were often heard at night. Elephant carcasses in the area kept hyenas busy, with several sightings of them feeding on the remains.

New birds, fresh rain and teeming with game

November brought an influx of migratory birds to the area. Large flocks of southern carmine bee-eaters were observed, both on land and while cruising in boats. Other migratory birds included broad-billed rollers and yellow-billed kites.

One memorable sighting occurred when a western osprey struggled to extract a large catfish from the water. The heronry at Xobega was packed with chicks from various species, including storks, egrets, and even a few pelicans.

The open plains east of the Kwara airstrip teemed with life. Large herds of zebras, many with foals in tow, roamed the area. The grasslands were shared by large herds of buffalo, significant numbers of elephants, and a multitude of antelope species, all drawn to the fresh grass shoots following the rain. The diversity of the wildlife included tsessebes, wildebeests, and impalas.

At Splash Camp, the general game was just as abundant. Large herds of buffalo and elephants were regularly seen, and the area saw an influx of young from various antelope species.

Springhares were commonly spotted during night drives, darting through the grass as we walked along the trails. Bat-eared foxes, jackals (both black-backed and side-striped), genets, and honey badgers were also regularly seen, adding a touch of excitement to the night safari experiences.

The Kwara Pride, the largest in the reserve, was seen frequently. This pride consists of three dominant males and several lionesses, along with subadult males and females, and three generations of cubs ranging from two to seven months old. One of the lionesses recently introduced her four cubs, estimated to be about two months old. This pride was often seen in the western and northern parts of the reserve, rarely venturing to the east despite the abundance of prey there. On a few occasions, they were spotted scavenging on an elephant carcass, with the cubs feeding alongside them.

In addition, we regularly saw a coalition of two young nomadic male lions around the airstrip. In the first two weeks of November, they killed three buffaloes and were often seen lounging near the airstrip’s waiting area. This caused some delays for pilots who were forced to load and offload guests at the far end of the runway in the interests of safety, making for an incredible first impression for incoming guests!

Comments closed

4 Rivers Camp, October 2024

4 Rivers Camp, October 2024

Published October 31, 2024 by Kwando Safaris

There were some unique African wild dog and leopard combination sightings this October. During one thrilling afternoon game drive, the resident leopardess stalked reedbucks while a pack of African wild dogs simultaneously chased another reedbuck antelope just a short distance away. We didn’t know where to look!

The dogs, oblivious to the leopardess’ presence, allowed her to continue her hunt uninterrupted.

This month, many leopard sightings occurred in the western part of the concession, particularly around Marula Pan and JD Spillway.One resident female leopard frequented the northern section of the old airstrip camping grounds. In one dramatic sighting, this leopardess and her cub were ambushed by a pack of seven African wild dogs, forcing them to seek refuge in a towering sausage tree. Guests watched in suspense as the dogs lingered in the shade of the tree for the entire afternoon, creating a standoff that will be remembered for years to come.

Two different packs frequented the 4 Rivers area with their playful energy and thrilling hunts. This resident pack of seven adults with five pups dominated the west side of the camp, while the larger pack of 18 dogs, including 10 playful puppies, was often seen chasing red lechwes across the floodplains. One particularly intense sighting saw this pack disembowelling a red lechwe near Lechwe Corner, showcasing the pack’s speed and ferocity.

Lions with cubs and kills at 4 Rivers

The area also teemed with lion activity, including a lioness with four newborn cubs nestled in Mokoro Island and two heavily pregnant females roaming near Double Crossing. The drama continued with three male lions boldly walking through the camp, stumbling upon a leopard on a kill and brazenly stealing its hard-earned meal. The power struggles between predators were nothing short of riveting.

During the dawn chill one morning, we witnessed six lionesses take down a wildebeest near the floodplains. The battle was fierce, with one lioness suffering a dramatic chest wound from the wildebeest’s horn. Initially, we feared for her survival, but to everyone’s amazement, she recovered. Another unique sighting unfolded by the 4 Rivers Lagoon, where a lioness ambushed and took down a baboon trying to quench its thirst at a small pond.

The abundance of big predators in the area meant hyenas were never far from scavenging opportunities. Several active spotted hyena dens were located, offering opportunities to observe their social dynamics and playful cubs. Guests frequently witnessed hyenas congregating around the lion, and African wild dog kills, vying for any scraps left behind. Their cunning and persistence provided endless entertainment.

Night drives and stellar sights

The landscape transformed dramatically as the flooded plains dried and the grass turned golden brown. These conditions attracted rodents such as porcupines, plus rats and mice, which in turn drew predators like wild cats. The woodland areas thickened with vegetation, creating ideal hiding spots for smaller mammals. During night drives, the trackers spotted African wild cats, servals, genets, white-tailed mongooses, and even a steenbok sheltering in the bush. One memorable surprise was lighting up a water mongoose prowling through the floodplains.

Cheetahs made special appearances, particularly in the eastern reaches of the concession, where the drying floodplains drew a massive volume and variety of general game in breathtaking scenes. Large herds of buffaloes, dazzles of zebras, wildebeests, eland, waterbucks, tsessebes, and many others congregated in these grazing areas. Elephants were frequently seen in family groups, crossing the plains and seeking out water, while giraffes elegantly moved between the trees. Monitor lizards were also commonly spotted in these grass-covered floodplains, while snakes such as green-spotted grass snakes, black mambas, twig snakes, and pythons added an element of thrill to our safaris. Crocodiles basked along the riverbanks, and their stealthy movements reminded us of their dominance in the waterways.

With minimal light pollution, the Milky Way stretched across the sky in dazzling clarity. Guests were treated to incredible views of constellations, including Scorpio and the Southern Cross, a tranquil end to thrilling days in the bush.

Comments closed

Botswana Safari, Okavango Delta Posts

Rains arrive in the Okavango Delta

Leopards and lions and kills aplenty

What is the Little Five?

Ground squirrels, giraffes and amazing lion encounters

Abundant newborns and African wild dogs on the hunt

The mighty lions of the Gomoti River

Summer rains and the zebra migration at Nxai Pan

Awesome African wild dog sightings

The big cats of Pom Pom: leopards, lions and cheetahs

A Pel’s fishing owl at Pom Pom

The water, the woodlands and shifting habitats in the Kwando Private Concession

A leopardess and her cubs

New birds, fresh rain and teeming with game

Lions with cubs and kills at 4 Rivers

Night drives and stellar sights